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vindeta
05-15-2011, 05:05 PM
so my car is starting to act up and be an idiot.. its very frustrating. because i JUST put a new LIM gasket in and everything ive done on my car ive gone the extra miles and bought top brand parts..not to mention spend hours and hours making my baby look pretty.

there seems to be quite a few problems with it ill just list them all off..
so it was running fine no problems everything was good and then i took the temp sensor right next to the thermostat out and put a pipe t fitting on it so that i could run another sensor my my new temp gauge that i put it. somewhere in the process of putting water back in and all that my radiator cap o ring broke and that caused ALOT of problems..
my engine would build pressure and end up spewing all the water out of the reservoir and as soon as i shut the engine off it would pump ALL the water out like a fire hose.
while it was doing that it ended up running completely out of water 2 or 3 times and the check engine light is on now.
i tried to shut it off as quickly as i could whenever i could tell it had pumped all the water out of itself.
i bought a new res cap and thought ok great now it will be fine again.. well it hesitates now when you start it. check engine light is still on. it WILL not get up to normal operating temperature anymore it gets to about 100 and then as long as you keep driving it stays at 100. as soon as i shut the car off though it will go right up to around 200 where it should normally be when its warmed up.
i drove it for around 20 minutes this morning and it feels like i lost alot of power and the throttle is sticking. if i tap the gas hard it will unstick though.
and when i got home and shut it off i poped the hood and felt the big hoses that run from the radiator to the engine and they were HARD AS A ROCK.
how much preasure should the engine normally have??
and why wont it get up to normal temp??

when the rad cap was bad i left the cap off and i could watch the fluid level rise and then it would start to overflow and after like 2 or 3 minutes it owuld be like hot lava spewing out and it would just pump itself dry.
when it was doing that this gross brown junk that looked like putty but would tear like paper was coming out of the reservoir.. it sprayed that all over my car..
i eventually opened the bleeder vavle and the radiator drain plug and put a garden hose in my reservoir and let it run for 10 or 15 minutes just flushing water through itself.
then i filled it up right put the new rad cap on.
i also put in a new thermostat when i put the new LIM gasket in. its been a month since doing those and i havnt driven it much but it ran perfectly fine.
(my car doesnt have tags or plates yet so i dont drive it a ton)

and my trans is acting weird also when you get on it it is doing alot of gear hunting.. and getting alot worse the more i drive it. this morning i had it close to th floor for a litle bit and between gears it lags like 2 or 3 seconds before shifting and after 2nd gear i think it tried to shift like 3 or 4 times before kicking into the next gear.

i need some help.. :(

vindeta
05-15-2011, 05:17 PM
from what the stickys say it sounds like the water pump is bad? from the gushing out after the engine shuts off..

would that fix all my problems? or do you think its more then that.. :(

oh and btw.. after flushing it out with that garden hose and it pumping itself dry like 2 more times. when i got the new cap i filled it with green antifreeze not the dexcool stuff. that wouldnt make a difference at this point cuz it didnt change how it ran or anything.
and after the engine was all cooled after 3 or 4 hours i went out and felt the big hoses and they were back to normal feeling and not like a rock anymore.

is my head gasket blown..
ive been checking my oil also.. its going up i think :\ who knows if the coolant is going down so far it hasnt run long enough to tell.

GrandAmMe
05-15-2011, 06:04 PM
If it were a headgasket your oil would most likely be a milkshake color. When mine went my car smoked slightly, ran rough on the initial start and used some coolant.

vindeta
05-16-2011, 06:51 PM
i cant figure out what my car is doing..

ill describe what its doing.

my car runs fine it seems like except for having less power.. its just being really weird.
it will run and get up to about 150 degrees and will NOT get any hotter. then i shut it off and let it sit for a minute and it will go up to 165. then i start it back up run it for a couple minutes, shut it off, it goes up to 180, start it back up and it will stay at 180.. then shut it back off it goes up to 190, start it back up and it stays at 190, shut it off and it goes up to 200, run it and it stays at 200, shut it off goes up to 210, run it and it stays at 210.
as long as its running it refuses to get any hotter but once you shut if off it will get hotter.
it WILL NOT get any hotter then 150ish when its running.

whats the deal???

i checked my oil and honestly it looks fine. i dont have very much antifreeze in it though its almost all water. would it still get milky looking or is that only from the antifreeze?

i looked by my water pump and there isnt alot of coolant sprayed all over the sidewalls.. it looks fine.

what the hell is wrong with my engine??

vindeta
05-16-2011, 06:56 PM
my service engine soon light is on.
all i can think of doing is going to autozone and buying a code scanner and renting a compression tester.

anyone have any ideas??

unchained_01
05-16-2011, 07:05 PM
dont drive the car and do a compression test and also these cars need to be burped when changing LIM gaskets

vindeta
05-16-2011, 07:30 PM
when i put it back together for the first time i burped it and filled it right. except for running the heater.

after i put the new gauge in i didnt burp it right though. but since then ive burped it correctly 5 or 6 times at least.. like every time ive started it up i open the bleeder a little bit and get the air out. i know theres no bubbles in it for sure now.

does anyone have any other ideas other then reading codes and compression test? anything i can try or check that would give a hint?

oh and btw. my heater is blowing hot/very hot air. ive seen some guys when there thermostat goes bad complain about having no heat.

vindeta
05-16-2011, 07:33 PM
there are no visible coolant leaks but the oil level is a good half inch above the full line.. and i havnt added a drop of oil since when i had it perfectly at the full line before all this bs started

vindeta
05-18-2011, 07:55 PM
i think my head gasket is blown but my car is showing alot of really strange symptoms..

if i take the reservoir cap off and run the engine the water level will slowly start rising up as it gets warmer and then after it runs for 5 or 6 minutes it starts running and gurgling out of the reservoir and then i shut the engine off and it SPRAYS all the water out like a geyser.

ill fill it back up and repeat the cycle.. ive done this like 20 times now.

i tried a couple things last time i was messing with it. when i open the oil fill cap the water in the reservoir goes right up and starts bubbling out. also when i open the bleeder screw it does the same thing. water goes up and starts running out.

i checked my oil and it looks perfect thought..
the oil level has gone up a half an inch above the full line though.

a little bit of water came out of the exhaust. and ive seen a couple air bubbles coming up the reservoir.

also i plugged my code reader in because the check engine light was on and it came up with P0107 - Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Low Input
P0507 - Idle Air Control System RPM Higher Than Expected

what would those mean or suggest? i put a cold air intake on and ive heard that those trip a code sometimes but i dont know which one that usually triggers.
BTW my car is getting some ungodly terrible gas mileage.. its used a quarter tank from driving maybe 30 minutes and idling another 30 minutes total.

im going to do a compression check tonight but it seems like its having different problems then just a blown gasket.
also there area absolutely no visible leaks or anything

sugar ray
05-19-2011, 06:45 PM
As far as "over" heating goes, if your water pump is fine and fan works when it's suppose to then ya, your head gasket is more then likely the problem. MAKE SURE YOUR PUMP IS FINE BEFORE DIVING INTO THE HEAD GASKET. last April I too did my LIM gasket on my 02. It was one of those things that I was there anyways, why not just spend the extra few bucks and do both head gaskets? Even though my car had low miles, there was not much extra time spent to do it especially since you are right there anyways. Too bad now that you have already been in there it is disheartening.

However I will say this. After I did my LIM and fired it up it was running rough like I had missed something?? It was also shifting HARD like I had installed a shift kit which was not the case. I too was getting P0507 as a trouble code. Took me a half a day to track down the problem. It ended up being a Vacuum leak which can cause all kinds of fun and codes. My leak was coming from the upper intake paper gasket. I must have tightened it too tight cause when I pulled it off a portion of the gasket was ripped and no longer in tact as it should be. It was no big deal as the replacement gasket was about $7 bucks. Replaced that and all was good.:applause:


As for your OTHER code P0107, it has been my experience in the past that ANY time something comes up as "low voltage" that particular device's wire harness has come disconnected or the device in question itself has become faulty. The computer will throw the "low voltage" code if after 2 minutes sufficient voltage is not getting to something it should be.

Here is some good information


DTC P0107 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage

Conditions for Setting the DTC
No TP sensor DTCs present.
Engine running.
Throttle angle above 0%, if engine speed is below 1000 RPM.
Throttle angle above 10%, if engine speed is above 1000 RPM.
The MAP sensor signal is less than 12.1 kPa.

Diagnostic Aids
Check for the following conditions:
Monitor the MAP sensor using the scan tool. If the MAP sensor does not respond to throttle changes, check the 3X circuits from the ignition control module to the PCM. If the 3X signal is lost the PCM will only update the MAP sensor reading once per key cycle, when the engine is first started. Depending on where the MAP sensor voltage (high voltage or low voltage) is when the engine is started, the high or low voltage MAP sensor DTCs will set.
Poor connection at PCM. Inspect harness connectors for backed out terminals, improper mating, broken locks, improperly formed or damaged terminals, and poor terminal to wire connection.
Damaged harness. Inspect the wiring harness for damage. If the harness appears to be OK, observe the MAP display on the scan tool while moving connectors and wiring harnesses related to the sensor. A change in the display will indicate the location of the fault.


ungodly terrible gas mileage - see my post below for this

sugar ray
05-19-2011, 06:49 PM
QUOTE:

"BTW my car is getting some ungodly terrible gas mileage.. its used a quarter tank from driving maybe 30 minutes and idling another 30 minutes total."

Loss of power as well?? I would put my money on a bad or PLUGGED CAT converter!! I only got like 75000 KM's (not miles) out of my converter and it did the SAME thing. Get an aftermarket one, the GM direct replacement ones suck bad and are 3 times as expensive!!

vindeta
05-20-2011, 08:11 AM
thanks for the reply.
how should i check to see if my water pump is fine? there are no leaks whatsoever coming from it. it might be squeaking alot when it gets low on water but is that normal?
its hard to tell because my power steering pump is squeaking like heck and i cant hear other noises over it lol

i did a compression test and 2 cylinders were 150, 2 were 125, 2 were 100. blown gasket?

and i do have 2 cracks in the upper intake manifold but i didnt think they went all the way through to the inside.. i must have over tightened them when i put it back on because the cracks are right next to the 2 back right bolts.
would there be much gain in buying a new upper intake manifold? like does a little leak like that affect performance very much?

sugar ray
05-20-2011, 10:34 AM
To me, a head gasket would be fairly obvious. Milkshake style oil is the dead give away but blowing coolant (light white smoke) out of your muffler while idling is also a tall tale sign. If neither exists, then your pump may be worth a look. If you do not seem to be losing coolant internally then there is little chance your head gasket is gone. If you can not see losing coolant externally (leaks under the car) then I would guess the pump. Without losing coolant internally or externally your coolant is just sitting in the system and not cycling (pumping) as it should.

Couple things you can test for your pump. Leaks and squeaks usually are the dead give away.Usually when a water pump goes bad, it begins to leak. There is a small weep hole in the casting that will drip once the inner seal has started leaking. If that is not caught in time, the bearing will fail and the water pump shaft will begin to wobble or make a noise.

The only other possible problem with a waterpump is if the impeller has broken or come off the shaft. That might be hard to detect without removing the pump.Simple answer.....After the car has cooled off, take the radiator cap off,make sure its topped off. Start the car, have some one rev the motor while you watch the level in the radiator. As the motors rpm's increase, the level in the radiator should decrease. And you should see the coolant flowing inside the radiator.

As for your intake, a friend did the exact same thing on his 3400. Over tightened the upper intake resulted in a crack line around the bolt area. First and foremost, ANY kind of vacuum leak will cause problems no matter how big or how small. Vacuum leaks can not be present for the vehicle to run 100%. It is a huge possibility that you have developed a leak from that area like my buddy did. What he got away with was grabbing a tube of JB weld, the steel/epoxy sealed up the small crack. I think it worked out for him because the upper intake does not get ridiculous hot. If it was a huge missing chunk this probably doesn't work but a small crack the JB weld should do. If you feel the need to spend money you could get an upper intake from a wrecking yard. I would remove the upper intake and check the paper gasket cause if you over tightened the bolts to cause a crack you probably crushed the paper gasket underneath. That's where my leak was coming from.

sugar ray
05-20-2011, 10:36 AM
thanks for the reply.
how should i check to see if my water pump is fine? there are no leaks whatsoever coming from it. it might be squeaking alot when it gets low on water but is that normal?
its hard to tell because my power steering pump is squeaking like heck and i cant hear other noises over it lol

i did a compression test and 2 cylinders were 150, 2 were 125, 2 were 100. blown gasket?

and i do have 2 cracks in the upper intake manifold but i didnt think they went all the way through to the inside.. i must have over tightened them when i put it back on because the cracks are right next to the 2 back right bolts.
would there be much gain in buying a new upper intake manifold? like does a little leak like that affect performance very much?


If both your power steering pump and water pump are squeeking have you inspected your belt as both operate off the same belt. A bad or slipping belt will also cause your pump to not operate properly. Have you also checked the thermostat?

vindeta
05-20-2011, 08:36 PM
i just put a new thermostat in when i replaced the LIM gaskets a month ago.. it was a 185 degree tstat btw. should i have anything done with my computer or will it be ok?

the level does go down just a little bit when i rev the engine. i noticed that when i was messing with it at some point.

ive heard alot about the milkshake oil thing but my oil looks perfectly fine. which is wierd. the level is deffinetly gone up a half of an inch on the dipstick though.

i will jb weld the cracks in my upeer intake manifold. its not worth buying a whole new one to me when i can do a easy fix like that.

vindeta
05-20-2011, 08:37 PM
im pretty sure my belt is good.. it looked perfectly fine to me when i had it off.

is there any way to check other then just looking for cracks and stuff when you bend it

sugar ray
05-21-2011, 02:29 AM
just make sure you take OFF the upper intake before using the epoxy. If you cracked the upper intake because of over tightening then I betcha you squashed the paper gasket. Check the Haynes manual for proper torque specs

vindeta
05-22-2011, 09:51 AM
i took it off once already to check the gasket because i though i had gotten something stuck in there causing it to crack. it looked fine. but like you said it might be too squished flat to reuse. if it is ill go ahead and get another.

im getting back home from vacation Monday night and i plan on picking up the gaskets and stuff Tuesday after work. im going to try to have it all back together before Saturday afternoon.. we'll see :\

on another unrelated subject.. im going to cut out my catalytic converter and resonator and replace them with strait sections of pipe.
only difficulty would be that o2 sensor after the cat.. ive read from alot of poeple that they either cut theirs out or took a crowbar and farmed out the inside and the car still ran perfectly fine.
is that legit or will it throw off how the car runs without that sensor reading like normal.
i also read that its probably clogged after 117,000 miles (my car) anyway so it wont even know the difference?