View Full Version : car cranks, starts to run, then dies
07-13-2011, 11:42 PM
as stated it will start, begin to run like normal for a second, then dies.
on the way to a friends my gauges and radio werent working. got to his house, turned it off then on and all seemed fine. Went to leave his house and gauges arent working, and car will crank, begin to fire, then shut off again. could it be tied to my ignition cylinder problem? IF so im in huge trouble. im 100 miles from home at school. broke as a joke. no job either. had to drive his truck back to my place.
ill search the web for anything helpful. Would passlock on the radio do this to me? i really need this to be a easy free fix. like really really bad.
07-13-2011, 11:51 PM
do you actually get it to run and die? or just almost run and stop as soon as you let off the key?
if no, the first thing to check is are you getting fuel? you can do the loan a tool thing from several places and hook up on the end of the fuel rail, and i believe you're looking for 50-55lbs of pressure there. no fuel? check the easy stuff, fuses and connections, but that could be the fuel pump dead on you. or maybe a severely clogged fuel filter, but probably the pump..lets be honest here.
if you have fuel, pull the ignition control module off the top, take it in, and have it tested. that box (plate that all the coil packs hook to atop the motor) controls the engine once it fires up until 600ish rpm, when it hands off to the computer of the car. they just up and die basically.
those are steps 1 and 2 with this issue... unless you forgot to tell us about a bright red SECURITY blinking at you. in that case, leave it for 10 minutes, then re-fire it.
07-14-2011, 05:52 AM
nah no security light, been there a hundred times. it does fire and run on its own for a second or two, but then it will die as thought i turned the key off.
07-14-2011, 07:48 AM
went to try and get my car running this morning before class. it didnt magically fix itself while i was sleeping. so i started checking out fuses. None of them blown. I just pressed down on all fuses and relays to make sure they were tight. Spend a lot of time of rough county roads now so i thought maybe one vibrated out of place somehow. It could happen..
long story short there must have been one semi loose cause it started right up after i did that. Took it to school and it started when i left with no problems.
One thing i forgot to mention.. when it wont start the key fob wont lock or unlock the doors. didnt think to try the trunk though. BUT i can lock and unlock them with the button on the doors. So key fob wont work, radio wont work, gauges light up when i turn the key to on but wont sweep or work, and it wont start. Is there a common theme here? Are they all on one circuit? Im gonna check my schematics on the car and see if they are tied together somehow. Electrical gremlins are far from my forte, so expect many questions while trying to resolve this issue.
07-14-2011, 10:05 AM
sounds like a security issue. When you turn the car and all your lights on the dashboard light up do you see the security light come on? If you don't someone disable the light for the security.
07-14-2011, 10:22 AM
^ that could be, there is the bypass procedure for the passlock..
you know there are two fuse panels right? one at either end of the dash? just double checking.
i would start looking at your wiring connections, and everywhere there is one, open it, check it for corrosion (may have gotten a little water in there) and make sure it's locking together well. it's not a bad way to check for free, i doubt that would read on a code reader, so you may literally be checking every wire to find that. hope not
07-14-2011, 02:26 PM
yea all my lights work. im shocked the security light ISNT on however.
yea the two at either end of the dash and one in the engine compartment. i think there is one under the dash on drivers side too? never checked that one.
put new key on my ring, used old key to more or less force wd40 in there without directly spraying it in the cylinder. im trying mechanical fixes first since electrical might as well be in greek to me.
07-14-2011, 03:18 PM
i have no first hand knowledge of it in a grand am.... BUT the ground, the main ground, (or any ground honestly) having corrosion could cause all sorts of gremlins too.
electrical stuff is pretty rough to find, you haven't changed a stereo, or added/subtracted an amp? changed any sort of item in the car at all have you? that would always be the first thing to check of course. man i hate tracking electrical bugs...i feel bad for ya bud, it's frustrating as hell finding them
07-14-2011, 07:32 PM
i havent. but thats not to say that the previous owner didnt.
07-15-2011, 12:38 PM
ok, went out to start it today and the battery was completely dead. Tested it at local parts store and its little more than a paper weight. Its still chiming as if a light is on or key is in ignition though. Worried that its pulling out of the battery just sitting there. No lights on that i see, key is obviously out. what should i look into?
07-15-2011, 02:32 PM
Well, it's definitely not a radio issue. The passlock on that is only to prevent someone from stealing your radio and using it another grand am.
Make sure there is no corrosion on the battery cable contacts. I had a weird starting issue once because of that. It sounds more like an issue with the ignition cylinder and/or security issue though. Really hard to say without seeing it. Electrical gremlins are def a bitch to figure out.
07-15-2011, 03:51 PM
so much of a bitch im seriously considering torching the car..
battery connections are clean as a whistle. is there a ground i should check? maybe one of those wiggled loose. i mean i know there are some, but where?
07-15-2011, 09:40 PM
Lemme run this through yall. When this started to happen was just after a heavy rain. the floor board on passenger side is soaked. SO, could that same water be getting on the BCM?? Last i heard the security system is inside that and if its wet at all it messes up. I know there is a replacement gasket for that air intake, but could a person just use some kinda silicone?
im gonna bypass the theftlock by cutting the yellow wire and soldering in some resistors btw. hopefully the two combined will fix the problem.
07-16-2011, 08:58 PM
i was thinking cutting into radio wires, way back (old beretta) had the stock radio's dimmer and light wires all tied together (with a wire nut) into the key hot line. i didn't do it, bought the car like that. parking lights were always on, and their fuse was blown... just kinda thinking out loud :D
350---in order of your questions
1> there is a main ground on the frame, being midwest, it could be rusted.. maybe.
2> that is entirely possible with your water issue, and yes you can silicon it. BUT, the difference in gasket vs silicon is you can take a gasket back apart later lol
i've gotta little truck that the wipers don't work in the rain lol but they do when it's dry...so yea, it can happen
07-17-2011, 12:05 PM
Yes, if water is getting inside the interior that could definitely be causing the problem. Even if it's not getting directly in the BCM, the raised humidity can cause corrosion problems. I'd get that leak fixed and dry out the interior then pull the BCM out and check it and the harness connections for problems.
07-17-2011, 01:10 PM
pulled the bcm yesterday. corroded pretty bad and several pins were eatin halfway through. Re soldered them and cleaned it up. Hopefully fixed the leak into the hvac. and i covered the top of the bcm to help avoid any further problems.
Seems to have fixed the dinger problem and i havent had an issue yet with anything.
07-17-2011, 08:58 PM
good to see man!
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