View Full Version : 2001 GT1 @ 146k Whats the Best Oil for it
07-26-2011, 05:31 PM
Hi all this is my first post i read thru alot of the post before hand, here is my situation:
I, just bought a 2001 Grand Am GT1 with 235k Km / 146K Miles, the car is in great condition no rust no visible leaks on the engine(clean/dry). I got it from a guy at work and have been getting a ride from him almost everyday for about 1 year so I have a good perspective of the car...
He has only owned it for 2 years now put about 12k miles on it (its ready for a change...), previous owner to that was a business lease/buy out so I'm sure the service was up to date. <---- Could i find out the service records for it?
I was wondering what oil to use for it, for normal daily driving(50/50 city/hwy), he's been using Castrol GTX 5w 30 changed every 3k miles, I plan on using the same but debating on the high millage formula or the conventional or if synthetic would be better, is it safe after all this time to switch to a synthetic and will it benefit me? I did purchase a WIX oil filter for it to get ready for the oil change.
Any suggestions i live in Toronto, Canada so as i read in the forums use 10w in summer 5w in winter.
Another thing the transmission is automatic and he told me sometimes on the freeway the Rpms stick for a few seconds and then it kicks in, is this something to worry about? I'm thinking of maybe getting a transmission flush done to it anyways since I'm not sure the history of it.
Any other suggestions while we're at it, on what to do to it. It had a basic tune up 2 years ago before the emissions test NGK plugs but champion wires.... Canadian Tire has NGK wires on sale this week thinking of upgrading them.... They also have a ODB Code reader CanODB2 FOR 60$ is it worth the buy? This is my first car(besides getting my parrents 5 speed Jetta) so i wanna be as nice as possible to it.
I'll post some pics this weekend, was very hesitant on buying it because of the horror stories I've read but as i said dry engine....
07-26-2011, 09:03 PM
You can use 5W30 all the time. I don't recommend using 10w in it ever since that's not what is called for from the factory. Oil weights are complicated things and it doesn't get so hot in Canada that you need to worry about changing it. Running thicker oil will just make you lose HP and fuel mileage from pumping loss.
Most important thing is using quality oil. A synthetic or synthetic blend won't change viscosity as much when it is cold or hot, so it protects better, and it won't break down under extreme heat. I used castrol GTX high mileage in my '97 grand prix that had 180k on the engine. That is a syn blend oil, and I sent a sample of it to an oil lab for testing after 5,000 miles. The test results showed the engine and oil where in good shape, and wear metals where low enough and there were enough additives left in the oil (acid neutralizers and such) that they told me I could run it for at least 7,000 miles. I only changed my oil twice a year, so more expensive oil can save $ in the long run. This is assuming of course that there is nothing else wrong with the engine that the oil isn't getting contaminated with fuel or coolant. ;)
edit: just read about the transmission. That is kind of normal for high miles on these. Unless it really starts acting up I wouldn't mess with it. Definitely DO NOT get it flushed! If it's never been changed, flushing will just stir it up and get a bunch of grit and garbage up in the seals and ruin the trans. I had it done to my grand prix at 126k, and at 130k I was buying a new gm certa-trans because my trans took a crap and wouldn't shift into gear or accelerate. :doh: The pan was full of all kinds of little plastic and metal bits when I took it off. If you want to do anything with it, you can just have the transmission pan dropped to drain the oil fluid and replace the filter then refill with new fluid, but don't get it flushed.
07-26-2011, 09:18 PM
Thanks for your reply AaronGTR, I originally bought the Castrol HM and was about to return it cause of a few post i read.....
I plan on storing the car in underground parking for a few months what will be recomended a pf-47 or a pf-52.....
You say Toronto dosent get hot lol we were at 100f last week, Toronto summers don't seem hot to most other places but our summers are HUMID so say 90f feels like 106f or 100f feels like 117f+
Any suggestions on a fuel filter brand to get?
Ok i will just do a pan drop any risk on that? as i said this is MY first car but i've worked on my parents VW's(all manuals/deisels 600k+ km on both of em) with my dad since i can remember. This is my/our first American car/auto trans working on it ourselves. For my dad first American car since id say the early/mid 70's
We're both kinda excited, if tranny does go might do a manual swap i duno just dreaming on d potential ;) I'll share pics soon
07-26-2011, 09:53 PM
Well, yeah but it doesn't get hot like Arizona or the middle east gets hot. I'm talking year round desert heat. You don't have to deal with those conditions, and most oil sold here is made to suit the majority of conditions you'll find in north america, so you don't need to worry about switching oil weights for seasons. That's all I'm saying. :thumbs: And like I said, oil quality is more important. Good oil doesn't get as thick when it's cold and doesn't thin out as much when it's hot.
No particular recommendation on fuel filters. Some places only carry one or two brands. Wix is good if you can get it, or a factory a/c delco filter. Generally you get what you pay for, so stay away from the dirt cheap bargain priced stuff.
No real risks to just dropping the trans pan and changing the fluid and filter. Only real pain is refilling it to the correct level since they don't give you a dipstick for the trans. You just have to put in the amount recommended in the owners manual them check it. There is a write up on here on the process if you search for it.
07-26-2011, 10:10 PM
Ok cool i'll try and find a wix and do both at once since i plan on letting her sit a few months (school tutions more important at this time since its all outta my pocket forget d man and loans n insurance is about 340$ month up here a month!!!) ;P then we will talk about o2 sensors and such ;) glad i found a great place for info
BTW here in Toronto Carquest had the Wix oil filters paid 8$ with tax today this was a pf-47, Carquest code 85040 didnt wannna get the pf-52 since it will be sitting for most of the time. But i will inquire on the fuel filter and post info for our Canadian members
07-27-2011, 06:58 PM
To reinforce Aaron's statements about not using 10w oil in a hot climate...
Austin has seen 30-40 some odd consecutive days above 100 degrees and I've always run 5w30 oil. Never had an issue with it.
07-28-2011, 05:26 PM
Thanks Malaclypse. btw what type of oil do u use? I was told by a few ppl since its already at 146k to stick with what the car had been using not to switch to the high millage ones..... since the engine is dry whats ur opinion? I also picked up a set of ngk wires and new g power plugs 40% off ;). Gonna try and install them this week or next
07-28-2011, 06:45 PM
I use Mobil 1 5w30 but my car is turbocharged so synthetic oil is a must.
You'll be fine with a quality conventional oil or synth blend. When I had my Monte Carlo with the 3100, I used Castrol GTX 5w30 and changed it every 4 - 5k miles.
As long as the oil you're using is quality and meets recent standards, you'll be fine so long as you change it when it needs it you'll be fine.
07-29-2011, 01:02 PM
I run Mobile 1 5w30 every 3000 miles when being boosted, about 5-7 non boosting
07-29-2011, 09:36 PM
^3k is still way short even while boosting.
No i haven't done a UOA or anything to support that but I think 4-5k is more reasonable for synthetics... Just my opinion.
07-29-2011, 10:44 PM
ok i just got the car today has about 3k miles since last oil change, its a daily driver no mods and such using Castrol GTX 5w30, i plan on keeping the car in a heated underground parking lot for the next few months 3-5. I plan on starting the car 2 times a week....
my question is should i leave the currant oil and filter the way it is or should i do a oil/filter change for this period, a buddy at work told me to just let it be as it is, and when i'm ready to get it on the road do the change.
i wanna do a tune up on the plugs, wires, fuel filter, air... But i also want to do a fuel injector cleaner(when i get it on the road). should i wait for the tune up, till after i do the injector cleaner, or is it ok to do the injector cleaner after the tune up......
07-29-2011, 11:04 PM
sea foam my brotha... sea foaaaammmm
07-29-2011, 11:07 PM
yeah sea foam but i need more in depth on my situation
07-30-2011, 12:41 AM
Change the oil now. Fuel and engine gasses mixed with the oil form an acid which can eat away at things over time.
Its fine to run the fuel injector cleaner after the tune up. You won't have any problems. I've done it many times.
07-30-2011, 01:25 AM
i use mobil 1 high mileage fully syn oil.
07-30-2011, 01:34 AM
ok Malaclypse will do the oil change tomorrow and get the Haynes book for the tune up
07-30-2011, 08:54 AM
Haynes book is pretty much a waste of time. They have way less info than a factory manual does. And there isn't that much really involved in a "tune up".... there isn't much to tune up on a modern computer controlled car. Pretty much anything you need to do, you can find the info or a full "how to" article on here. :thumbs:
07-30-2011, 10:44 AM
IMO. Sea foam your car before you change stuff... that **** knocks all that crap loose... if you do it right, you will notice HUGE differences the second you drive your car.
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