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nolimit
08-13-2011, 10:31 AM
Afternoon,


I have an 03 Grand am G.T. I bought it two years ago with 44,5 on the odometer.It now has 83,4. I am in the process of doing a Fluid Filter change next week. Couple questions and insights would be apprceiated.

I grew up with good backyard mechanics..lol,if there is such a thing.
I am a firm beleiver in the parts / product you buy. I beleive there is a difference depending on certain parts.

When it comes to my G.M products I like to use Ac Delco.
I went to my local part store (Oreill'y) They had to special order the the Ac Delco filter and it was $63 for filter and gasket. I know of and aware of WIX product.I've done some researching and there pretty close to if not better in some of there filtration products.

I was thinking of going with the Wix filter. It was only $23. IS that fine
and, I have read the "how to" several times. Won't be no problem.


TRANSMISSION FLUID. I know about the Dex 3/6. is it better to use the Dex6?
And safe to mix with the existing fluid of Dex 3 in the torque?

The two local part stores I went to only sold Valvoline,Amsoil,Royal Purple and House brand.
I want the best of best, other than the Royal purple. What tranny fluid would you recomend. I was thinking of going to our dealership and get the G.M kind.

Let me know what you think. THANKS!

AaronGTR
08-13-2011, 02:23 PM
Existing trans fluid is dexron 4 not 3. You can use 6 if you want, it's compatible with all earlier fluids and transmissions. Also the wix filter should work fine. I usually like to use factory parts too, but there are certain instances where they are just overpriced and the aftermarket equivalents are just as good.

nolimit
08-13-2011, 05:47 PM
Thanks AaronGTR,

Any special recmomendation on what brand of Fluid Tranny fluid, The two part stores I went to had Royal Purple Valvoline and House Brand. Thanks

AaronGTR
08-14-2011, 10:12 AM
Valvoline. Or Castrol if you can find it. I know they make a dexron 6 certified equivalent.

Avoid royal purple at all cost... it's all hype. House brand would be ok for a beater car.

sugar ray
08-14-2011, 11:56 PM
Just finished the exact same project myself on my 02. I used a WIX filter. The replacement after market gasket doesn't have the 2 "alignment tabs" that fit the 2 non bolt holes on the tranny case. Tough one to explain but you will see exactly what I mean when you drop the pan. No matter, a little gasket glue wokked out nicely. My original gasket was in excellent shape. I probably could have gotten away with re-using it but went with the aftermarket gasket anyways!! I went with Mobil Dexron 6. Looked for Castrol but Mobil was the only brand I could find in my area. So far so good and its been about 2 months.

One thing I will highly recommend as you mentioned being a backyard mechanic. For $5 purchase a drain plug so you can install it while the pan is off. Will make life much easier in the future. Without a shop vehicle hoist there is just no easy way of draining your pan, chances are you will be going for a bath in Tranny oil. Installing a drain plug will ensure clean drains down the road.

Lastly.....no dipstick to check fluid levels on these trannies. Even more fun and games for back yard guys. Make sure both the front and back of the car are jacked up level. A small level on the pan helps. With a level vehicle only then you can accurately check the level using the inspection hole.

I love how the owner's manual states these are "maintenance free" transmissions. GM felt there was no need to ever change your transmission oil??

nolimit
08-16-2011, 06:50 AM
Thanks guys !!. I can find either one at my local stores. been checking it out. I also thought about doing the drainplug too, but figured I'd probly be putting a tranny in if I keep it. I put ALOT of miles on her...There has been times where I changed my oil once a month a time or two cause I follow the 3,000 mark. I drive the SH!& out of her,but also pamper her with the goods. I follow a certain strict maintence program. I'll be putting some theorys to the test along with this G.M 3.4 ..lol Just got done doing the Ac Delco tune up. Not bad at all.Easy job. I've had her two years and put a pretty hard 45,000 miles on it. Bought with 44 now has 85, One fuel pump,Two hub bearings plus necessaties, list to be continued...Thanks again guys

unchained_01
08-16-2011, 07:06 AM
http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=133146&highlight=transmission+filter Here is a detailed write up with pics and GM service manual instructions

AaronGTR
08-16-2011, 03:56 PM
Thanks guys !!. I can find either one at my local stores. been checking it out. I also thought about doing the drainplug too, but figured I'd probly be putting a tranny in if I keep it. I put ALOT of miles on her...There has been times where I changed my oil once a month a time or two cause I follow the 3,000 mark. I drive the SH!& out of her,but also pamper her with the goods. I follow a certain strict maintence program. I'll be putting some theorys to the test along with this G.M 3.4 ..lol Just got done doing the Ac Delco tune up. Not bad at all.Easy job. I've had her two years and put a pretty hard 45,000 miles on it. Bought with 44 now has 85, One fuel pump,Two hub bearings plus necessaties, list to be continued...Thanks again guys


Do yourself a favor, save yourself some money, and run that oil longer. There is absolutely NO reason to run oil for only 3000 miles in a modern car with modern oil. 3k is a recommendation from the 1950's you are following! Many new cars are coming with recommendations from the factory for oil changes between 5-7k. I ran castrol GTX high mileage in my '97 grand prix with 180k on it for 7k miles between changes. Sent an oil sample to the lab for testing and they said it was still good. I'm sure you can too. ;)

nolimit
08-17-2011, 03:12 PM
Hey Aaron, do you still think that would be the case with Alot of short trips and start and stops. That's the main reason I follow it. If so I'll swith to the 5 mark. Casuse changing it once a month can cost when you add it up PLUS other maintence. Thanks

AaronGTR
08-17-2011, 06:26 PM
Yes, even with short trips... good oil holds viscosity over a wider temp range, but the biggest thing is the quality and volume of additives in the oil that help keep the engine clean and neutralize acids. Good oil has more additive and can be driven on longer. Doesn't matter if it's freeway or city driving.


If you really want to know for sure, take a sample on your next oil change and send it here. http://www.blackstone-labs.com/standard-analysis.php They do used oil analysis for $25 and they'll send you test sample kits for free. You just have to get the sample after the engine has been run and the oil heated up to temp so they get an accurate picture of whats in it, because stuff in the oil separates when it cools. For an extra $10 they'll do a TBN test and tell you how much additive is left in your oil. Based on both those tests they'll tell you how healthy your engine is, any signs of possible problems, and how much life your oil has left.

You don't have to do it every oil change either. Just once if you want, or whenever you are wondering how the engine and oil are doing. I've done it on both my cars and on my friends bimmer, and have been happy with the results. I bet they tell you that you can double your oil change intervals.

eBandit
08-21-2011, 06:14 PM
If you really want to know for sure, take a sample on your next oil change and send it here. http://www.blackstone-labs.com/standard-analysis.php They do used oil analysis for $25 and they'll send you test sample kits for free. You just have to get the sample after the engine has been run and the oil heated up to temp so they get an accurate picture of whats in it, because stuff in the oil separates when it cools. For an extra $10 they'll do a TBN test and tell you how much additive is left in your oil. Based on both those tests they'll tell you how healthy your engine is, any signs of possible problems, and how much life your oil has left.

Going to copy that info down, that could be usefull, thanks for the info. I didnt know you could have that done that easily and cheaply! :D

nolimit
09-04-2011, 06:14 PM
Afternoon Gentlemen, ..Well. I did the fluid filter change. I am unsure about the fluid level. I still had the car in the air on jack stands. I had a torpedo level on the tranny pan and was perfectly level. After I put on the pan,I put 7 quarts of fluid in. let sit for about 3-5 mins. Started the car let sit idle for a bout 3-5 mins. got it shifted through R to D. Got out opened the 11mm bolt and tranny fluid was pour ing out ..about half quart or so. replaced the estimated fluid that was lost. waitied opened it again with car runnimg warm and it started to pour out again. Is this right. Should I with the pan level and that bolt out just let pour out until it stops. Thanks.

WidbyJ
09-05-2011, 05:47 PM
Yup - assuming you have the correct plug (passenger side near output shaft) and the car is level (rear in the air also) with the engine idling and fully warm you are to let the excess trans fluid run out. Cap it off and call it good.

FYI - switching to the new Dex VI makes these trannies run stronger, smoother and cooler. Can be quite expensive though....

nolimit
09-06-2011, 05:10 PM
Well, after reading reading,reading. I was under the assumption that,when you pull the 11mm bolt that the tranny fluid would kinda trickle out due to putting in 7 quarts when you only need 6.9. I pulled the plug twice and both times it started to pour out. I may just take it to a tranny shop. I just want to make sure it's right.

AaronGTR
09-07-2011, 04:25 PM
I wouldn't worry about it. It's not that hard to find that plug as there aren't a lot of other things it could be, so I bet you have the right one. Also just because the manual says 6.9 quarts, doesn't mean you are going to get EXACTLY that much out when you drain it or be able to fit that much in when you fill it back up. As long as the trans was warmed up and level with the engine running while you pulled the plug out, then it should be at the right level.

nolimit
09-09-2011, 05:31 PM
Hello. I am back... instead if starting new threads over an over I just continue in the sameone.
I now have close to 86'000 miles. As stated before I bought the car with 44'5 miles and had the car for lil over two years. I am getting ready to do the Brake Fluid Flush gravity bleed.Unless I am not searching or looking right.I can not find a "The right way to do it" thread. Just want to be sure to do it how the "Book" says too. Can someone point me in the right direction,and any reccomendation on what Brake Fluid to use? Thanks

AaronGTR
09-09-2011, 07:31 PM
Gravity bleed? Never heard of it. Don't think that is the right way to do it. Gotta be careful or you'll end up with air in your lines. Proper way is to use a pressure bleeder, or have someone help you by pressing the brake pedal while you bleed them.

unchained_01
09-09-2011, 08:21 PM
You can't gravity bleed these systems anymore and get it all out. You need to have it done at a shop or a someone that has a tech 2. The abs system has a setup in the BCM that will bleed the system and preform a "flush" to simulate a new abs pump being installed. So you can either pump the brakes and have someone bleed them and keep filling the resivoir or take it to a shop also there is a sequence to bleeding them. Front to opposite rear then opposing front then rear. I would have to look it up again. Hope this helps And dot 4 fluid will work just fine for everyday driving.

nolimit
09-09-2011, 08:42 PM
First question is, Can it be done with out having an ABS light or taking it to the shop, Can two people do it? Open a bleeder with tube running into a bottle of fluid?

Do these cars have the X pattern brake system.When bleeding (RR LF) (LR RF) or just regular furthest to closeet to master cylinder?.
Is there a Specific order or certain way to bleed that I am missing or need to do.
Sorry for all the questions just, Never done the Fluid Flush thing and plan to do it soon and just want to do it right with out having to take to a Stealership. Thanks

WidbyJ
09-12-2011, 10:10 AM
You can do a basic 'flush' at home like you would with any other vehicle but be aware that this will NOT ensure fresh fluid (without air) in the ABS system. There are chambers, pistons, valves and lines that only get used when the ABS is activated. This is where dealership tools come into play.

That having been said, many/most of us have had good luck with the standard pedal-pumping friend, a piece of tubing and a wrench. Just go slowly and keep the fluid reservoir full. Usually even after a caliper change it only takes a couple of ounces of fluid to see that there are no more bubbles, all set. I like to drive it a bit, slow and careful, to make sure everything is good and then go back and double-check (re-bleed).

If you have the money to spend having a dealership do it would be wise. Do any other work yourself first (calipers, stainless lines, etc.) and then have them flush, fill and test. Should only be 1 hour of shop time plus materials (fluid). Plus they will be able to verify the ABS is working.

AaronGTR
09-12-2011, 04:23 PM
You can do a standard flush at home with a friend and the brake pedal method and that will change out most of the fluid. Use the normal method with a clear piece of tubing on the bleeder screw going down into a glass or clear plastic jar. Pedal down, open bleeder screw until pedal drops to the floor, close bleeder screw, release pedal and repeat. Refill reservoir as you go. Start with the passenger side rear corner, then opposite rear, passenger front, driver front. That is furthest to nearest. No cross bleeding needed. It is a simple 2 channel ABS paired front and rear. :thumbs:

nolimit
09-16-2011, 01:29 PM
Afternoon Gentlemen, Well considering you guys take the time to help me out. I like to come back and give an updated status on how it went or need help on the same thread instead of starting new ones over Or not coming back to let us forum readers know what happen until they have another problem in another thread? ..lol, See that alot. Anyway..., Went to do the 2-man brake flush,started to walk around the calipers to crack the bleeders open, went well until coming to the last,wheel driver side. HEAT WORKS WONDERS, applied heat to them all and it suure helped alot.But the driver side would not budge.Ended up rounding it off. Took the caliper off to get a good shot square at it. Applied heat for a a while tried to take it out and the bleeder broke.I have an E-Z out done it before with no problem.Started the Ez out and Snapped off in the bleeder. So all in all. I have two new loaded Wagner calipers with mounting brackets bolts.Replaced rear rotors pads (Warranty) Bled system with KEY OFF all the way around,almost went through a whole big bottle of fluid, fluid still seems a lil dark not black like it was. Going to wait about a week and re-bleed again. End of the story is I HAVE SOME MEAN BRAKES. Like a brand new car.

AaronGTR
09-16-2011, 08:42 PM
Yeah, I've seen that happen before. That's why I like to take the caliper bleeder bolts out when they are new if possible and put anti-seize on the threads. Makes it so they will loosen up easily later on. Putting a steel bolt into an aluminum caliper down close to the road where it is exposed to lots of water and road dirt/salt is a recipe for metal corrosion. The two different metals will basically weld themselves together and you'll never get them apart.