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icecats87
09-03-2011, 03:39 PM
So how bad is it to run a car with "open headers" im not currently doing it nor do i want to, but my car kinda sounds like it is... here is a video, you guys think there is a hole in the headers? or could 2 broken studs do this? it sounds like a big V8


http://s1027.photobucket.com/albums/y336/dvero1727/?action=view&current=MVI_8381.mp4

icecats87
09-03-2011, 04:35 PM
Was defiantly something header related, because you can smell exhaust fumes from 5 feet away, just ordered some pacesetters off amazon, they wll be here by next friday so a good weekend project =)

lastryghts
09-03-2011, 04:40 PM
Are they S&S headers? If so look where the crossover from the front meets up with the rear tube. Mine had a weld there that broke out. If you look closely you will see a small hole in both pipes.

icecats87
09-03-2011, 04:52 PM
Are they S&S headers? If so look where the crossover from the front meets up with the rear tube. Mine had a weld there that broke out. If you look closely you will see a small hole in both pipes.

No there stock

drakesrevenge
09-03-2011, 08:30 PM
i thought it sounded badass!

AaronGTR
09-03-2011, 08:52 PM
Video's not working for me, but anyway... if they're stock, they aren't headers, they are manifolds. ;) They are made of pretty thick cast iron, so it's very doubtful they would have a hole in them. Could be a leaking gasket, or more likely a hole rusted in the down pipe or another section of the exhaust since it's thinner metal. If they hole is in front of the cat, it will be louder than if from behind. Won't terribly hurt anything from driving it like that, other than the annoying smell and noise.

icecats87
09-03-2011, 09:20 PM
Video's not working for me, but anyway... if they're stock, they aren't headers, they are manifolds. ;) They are made of pretty thick cast iron, so it's very doubtful they would have a hole in them. Could be a leaking gasket, or more likely a hole rusted in the down pipe or another section of the exhaust since it's thinner metal. If they hole is in front of the cat, it will be louder than if from behind. Won't terribly hurt anything from driving it like that, other than the annoying smell and noise.

Ill take another video tomorrow this time ill go more then 20% throttle, i was at 20% doing it and it was very very loud, while driving i went WOT for a second and it was extremely loud, i went ahead and ordered headers anyways since i have after market cat muffler/piping

icecats87
09-04-2011, 06:37 PM
got the headers off, 3 studs are broken in the back and one broke off in the front =( whats the best way to go at these? do i need to take the heads off... =/ also the downpipe looks busted, it slid off the headers with out removing the 2 nuts on the studs that attach to the headers. any place to buy a whole new downpipe?

KillNThrill24
09-04-2011, 07:07 PM
for the broken studs hate to be the bearer of bad news, but from the experiences iv had, your gonna have to pull the heads to get a good go at them. if someone else has a better way to do it, id bet itd be Aaron he seems to be super knowledgeable. but like i said from MY experiences.. time to get your hands dirty. but hey look at it this way, while you have that stuff all apart you can change all the gaskets like im currently doing and save yourself some time and money down the road :)

as for the downpipe if its stock id check local junkyards to see if you can get one for cheap. DEF inspect before you buy tho cuz sometimes they SAY its good but then you go to put it on and find otherwise... if its aftermarket, well your prob gonna have to re-buy one. best of luck tho!

KillNThrill24
09-04-2011, 07:08 PM
btw nice car looks like we have twins with the exception of the number of doors :p

icecats87
09-05-2011, 09:37 PM
So i looked into it and people have said buy a 90 degree drill, or a angle drill and get a special drill bit cant remember the name but you put the drill in reverse and slowly drill into the broken stud and if you do it right it will un thread the broken stud. Anyone ever hear of this? also there are only 2 studs in the rear that are actually broken, they are the middle lower and also the right lower (one closer to ps pump) looks like there is enough room to fit the drill in there, any other recommendations?

I dont want to replace gaskets and take heads off because 1st i did it about a year and a half ago and 2nd im planning on a 3500 swap this winter so it wouldn't be worth it.

350rs
09-05-2011, 10:15 PM
So i looked into it and people have said buy a 90 degree drill, or a angle drill and get a special drill bit cant remember the name but you put the drill in reverse and slowly drill into the broken stud and if you do it right it will un thread the broken stud. Anyone ever hear of this? also there are only 2 studs in the rear that are actually broken, they are the middle lower and also the right lower (one closer to ps pump) looks like there is enough room to fit the drill in there, any other recommendations?

I dont want to replace gaskets and take heads off because 1st i did it about a year and a half ago and 2nd im planning on a 3500 swap this winter so it wouldn't be worth it.

yes i have tried those reverse cut bits. on exhaust manifold bolts. didnt work for me. ended up needing to get drilled out and re-tapped.

if your really set on that swap.. now might not be a bad time to get a start on it if you can. before it gets too cold and after its hot. cooled down a lot here at least.

icecats87
09-05-2011, 10:16 PM
yes i have tried those reverse cut bits. on exhaust manifold bolts. didnt work for me. ended up needing to get drilled out and re-tapped.

if your really set on that swap.. now might not be a bad time to get a start on it if you can. before it gets too cold and after its hot. cooled down a lot here at least.

trust me i wish i could start right now, just dont have the funds right now =/ and when you said drill and tap what exactly do you do for that?

350rs
09-05-2011, 10:21 PM
i should add.. sometimes you do get lucky with those reverse cut bits and are able to get them out like that. I just wasnt that lucky. If you go that route, soak those spots for as long as you can with something like PB Blaster. And let it sit. Take a punch and get it exactly in the center of the bolt to be drilled. and make sure you drilling straight, go too far off center and you could go into a water jacket. Same with too deep.

Another thing i have learned with rusty or seized bolts is to heat them up with a propane torch or a MAP gas torch. Or anything you have really. Then do your drilling. Can even heat them up then splash them with something that isnt flammable. Sometimes the shock from being hot like that to cold can shock the bolt and break that rust loose enough to get them out with a EZ out or something of the sort.

350rs
09-05-2011, 10:23 PM
trust me i wish i could start right now, just dont have the funds right now =/ and when you said drill and tap what exactly do you do for that?

auto stores sell kits that come with a bit and a "new set of threads". Forget the name. But when our silverado busted a exhaust mani bolt we had to chizel and drill and all kinds of crap to get it out. But once it was out we stepped up ONE size larger with a new tap and carefully rethreaded the hole with the tap. That was with aluminum heads as well. Once the bolt is out its pretty easy. But getting it out was a pain.

icecats87
09-05-2011, 10:27 PM
i should add.. sometimes you do get lucky with those reverse cut bits and are able to get them out like that. I just wasnt that lucky. If you go that route, soak those spots for as long as you can with something like PB Blaster. And let it sit. Take a punch and get it exactly in the center of the bolt to be drilled. and make sure you drilling straight, go too far off center and you could go into a water jacket. Same with too deep.

Another thing i have learned with rusty or seized bolts is to heat them up with a propane torch or a MAP gas torch. Or anything you have really. Then do your drilling. Can even heat them up then splash them with something that isnt flammable. Sometimes the shock from being hot like that to cold can shock the bolt and break that rust loose enough to get them out with a EZ out or something of the sort.

well i have a week to try stuff before the headers and down pipe get here, if i had 4/6 bolts or even 5/6 bolts would it cause a bad leak? also a friend said maybe using 2 gaskets to increase the seal across, would this at all work? i know one broken stud looks very easy to, the other i haven't looked at yet. one in the front broke off too, but its in a easy spot as well to get to.

Starglow
09-11-2011, 11:14 AM
I have some ?'s for you:

What tool were you using to take out the bolts? Rachet? Impact?
Are the bolts broken off flush with the surface or is part of the bolt sticking out?

I would try other means of getting the bolt out before drilling such as using a small punch & hammer to try turning the bolt loose after much soaking with PB Blaster.
Soak them good and let it set overnight or re-apply PB Blaster over a few days time if possible.

Another method is to cut a small slot in the bolt with a Dremel tool and use a flat blade screwdriver to remove them. It's too bad you can't start the engine to heat the heads up which might help.

A mechanic friend told me one time that they lightly tap the bolt with a hammer and I mean small tap, tap, tap, tap, not wham, wham, wham. The small vibrations from the tapping help break the bond and the bolt comes right out.

Be careful if you decide to drill or you might be buying new heads. Personally I would pull the heads off and let a machine shop do the drilling at that point if you've never done it before.

icecats87
09-13-2011, 12:16 PM
So i haven't had a car for a week and a half =( last sunday i spent hours removing the old headers after i ordered pacesetter headers, then on Tuesday i got an email saying the headers were on back order for a month great right? I dont know why but i ordered the non coated ones so the next day i ordered the coated ones for $400 and they get here today =) So here are my last questions, I was able to remove 1 broken stud, so now there is only 1 broken stud in the front and rear. Should this be fine? Again i dont plan on keeping this motor any longer then 6 months.

Also i ordered a direct fit magnaflow downpipe. I have a shop i deliver to for work that is going to remove my high flow cat from old DP and weld it on the new magnaflow one. Heres my question the flange after the cat on the old downpipe would not unbolt. It looked like the 2 flanges melted together. (the 3 bolt one) So i cut the downpipe off right after the flange. So i was wondering if there is a place i can get the stock 3 bolt flang i can have my buddy weld on while doing the cat. Or would it be possible to cut the flange off new DP and just weld it to the exhaust pipe.

WidbyJ
09-13-2011, 01:09 PM
The 3-bolt flange is a standard part, around here any muffler shop or real auto parts place has them available all the time. Realistically the Magnaflow downpipe should have the correct flange on it already. It will all work out...

About the broken studs: If they are in the middle you shouldn't have too many issues, use a copper gasket and retorque after a few days. If these are studs on either end you may not be able to get it to seal properly...

icecats87
09-13-2011, 01:14 PM
The 3-bolt flange is a standard part, around here any muffler shop or real auto parts place has them available all the time. Realistically the Magnaflow downpipe should have the correct flange on it already. It will all work out...

About the broken studs: If they are in the middle you shouldn't have too many issues, use a copper gasket and retorque after a few days. If these are studs on either end you may not be able to get it to seal properly...

both studs are broken in the middle. and the new dp does have a flange, but its suppose to bolt up to the other flang on the exhaust piping. i had to cut it off right there to get old downpipe off. So the old one has both flanges still bolted up but its off the car (the flanges looked like they melted together may just be the gasket)

Starglow
09-13-2011, 09:00 PM
both studs are broken in the middle. and the new dp does have a flange, but its suppose to bolt up to the other flang on the exhaust piping. i had to cut it off right there to get old downpipe off. So the old one has both flanges still bolted up but its off the car (the flanges looked like they melted together may just be the gasket)

IIRC, there is no gasket there and mine came apart easily once the bolts were out. It's a bit too late now, but did you try using some heat and a hammer to knock them apart? Probably just rusted together.

Let me know what your first out of the box impressions are of the Pacesetter headers and post some pics if you can.

icecats87
09-13-2011, 09:15 PM
It was completely rusted together, took the headers out of the box and they seem pretty good. heres some pics of the install.

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/302041_2415393862441_1179167583_3024996_1324391939 _n.jpg

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/319513_2415398782564_1179167583_3024999_262758145_ n.jpg
(Dont even need this downpipe)
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/299825_2415403302677_1179167583_3025006_670973904_ n.jpg
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/314981_2416235803489_1179167583_3025525_932727356_ n.jpg
(rears) these were a PAIN in the ass to get on
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/310843_2416236003494_1179167583_3025527_1056364936 _n.jpg
Where Y-Pipe connects to crossover pipe and rear header
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/310843_2416236083496_1179167583_3025528_1880907032 _n.jpg
Comes out pretty far, and there is another piece you can see in the first picture it's the little elbow piece, that connects to the Y-Pipe and all you need is a shop to weld on your cat and then just a little piping, so i didnt even need the new downpipe =(
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/310843_2416236123497_1179167583_3025529_2078217486 _n.jpg

Starglow
09-13-2011, 09:43 PM
Wow.... that was quick. Thanks for the pictures. 8-)

It does look like they route pretty close to the fan in front. Did you see any clearance issues or other concerns regarding things possibly melting?

The install job looks good, but I'm not too crazy about those clamps they use.

icecats87
09-13-2011, 09:48 PM
Wow.... that was quick. Thanks for the pictures. 8-)

It does look like they route pretty close to the fan in front. Did you see any clearance issues or other concerns regarding things possibly melting?

The install job looks good, but I'm not too crazy about those clamps they use.

No clearance issues i see, the clamps are ehh =/ the Y-Pipe is a bit bigger then the other pipes so it slides over them, then you tighten clamps. i took a piece of wood and hammered the Y-pipe as far as it could go on the 2 pipes. then tightened clamps as much as i could, used all my strength and it didnt move at all. they give you a bag of "goodies" lol there are some type of heat wrap you put over the power steering lines (in picture 6) Im not done yet so i haven't done it yet, and it comes with extra too. So far they look pretty good, Cant wait to turn the car on and drive it. Ill be running open headers for half a day until i make it to the shop and have my buddy weld my high flow cat back on.

350rs
09-14-2011, 06:17 PM
look nice.

im sure you know by now... but two things caught my eye pretty quick. Coolant in a few places, did you blow something up? And i see the PCV valve isnt exactly hooked up.

icecats87
09-14-2011, 06:26 PM
look nice.

im sure you know by now... but two things caught my eye pretty quick. Coolant in a few places, did you blow something up? And i see the PCV valve isnt exactly hooked up.

Coolant is from radiator hose and removing that black coolant line that runs around block/throttle body. Have to remove it to get headers off. And yeah i took the pcv valve off was just looking at it lol, I have it hooked up now that the cars running. Engine bay is dirty gonna wash it this weekend.