Battery is dead overnight [Archive] - GrandAmGT.com Forum

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icecats87
09-22-2011, 08:23 AM
This has happened 3 or more times now. ever since i installed my new headers the morning after i went to start the car and the battery was dead, then it wouldn't start and eventually i found out it was the passlock, so i had to do the relearn and it started. Now last week i went to start the car after it sat for a day and the battery was dead. charged the battery it started. then that night i had to move my car it turned on and drove. then i let it sit 2 days and i just went to start it and its completely dead. no lights turn on or anything.

The battery is fine and has been tested numerous times, and each time i left the car i checked and no lights were left on, the radar detector was shut off, there is nothing i can see thats draining the battery so fast. What else could cause this? i honestly have no clue why the battery dies over night, i have no clue where to even start any ideas?

icecats87
09-22-2011, 01:34 PM
Going to bring my alternator into work and test it to see if its bad, Im hoping it is bad but at the same time i hope its not :D i dont have money to buy a new one but i dont want to hook a multimeter on and take each fuse out. On the good side finally getting the cat welded on Saturday morning (thats if i fix my car by then)

Pauljp
09-22-2011, 01:38 PM
What I would do is check the current draw right at the source, the battery.
Most voltmeters have an ammeter built into them.
Ammeters have to be connected in series with the circuit.
Disconnect the positive cable from the battery.
Place one lead from the meter on the end of the cable, the other on the positive post of the battery, so the power will flow out the battery, through the meter and to the car.
You should have very minimal current being drawn, mostly from the clock on the radio or alarm system if you have one.
If you see that you are drawing 3-4 amps, then start checking systems or pulling fuses one at a time until you find the culprit.
If you find that the current draw is minimal, then it is obviously your battery that can't hold a charge very long, then you simply have to replace it.
Do you have another battery you can put in just to test for a day or two?
It doesn't have to be exact size, don't drive it around, just connect the wires and see if it dies in a day or two.
Let us know what you find out.

NOTE: Sorry, you posted your second post before I finished mine. I see you don't want to hook up a meter and pull fuses. So disregard my previous suggestion.

icecats87
09-22-2011, 01:40 PM
What I would do is check the current draw right at the source, the battery.
Most voltmeters have an ammeter built into them.
Ammeters have to be connected in series with the circuit.
Disconnect the positive cable from the battery.
Place one lead from the meter on the end of the cable, the other on the positive post of the battery, so the power will flow out the battery, through the mater and to the car.
You should have very minimal current being drawn, mostly from the clock on the radio or alarm system if you have one.
If you see that you are drawing 3-4 amps, then start checking systems or pulling fuses one at a time until you find the culprit.
If you find that the current draw is minimal, then it is obviously your battery that can't hold a charge very long, then you simply have to replace it.
Do you have another battery you can put in just to test for a day or two?
It doesn't have to be exact size, don't drive it around, just connect the wires and see it it dies in a day or two.
Let us know what you find out.

The battery is 7 months old, i tested it last week and it was fine. going to bring the alternator in and get it tested since thats the first and easiest step to do.

icecats87
09-22-2011, 06:14 PM
Update: Tested alternator it is fine, that being said i charged battery up, it was at 70% so i put it in the car trying it out, car Almost started but killed the battery to where it wouldn't crank.

I had the key on and the radio was on, all lights and instrumental cluster worked. when i hit the brake pedal everything just shut off immediately, when i released the pedal everything went back on. right now charging the battery and this time i took the stop lamp fuse out and going to try hitting the brake.

Any idea why they would do that hitting the pedal? I just want my car back!

G.I.Ceo
09-22-2011, 06:39 PM
It's a bad voltage regulator I guarantee it. I had the same issue and it started making my batteries leak acid out of them. It would be fine for a few days and then it would slowly drain my battery to a point it wouldn't stay charged over night. My alternator would say its putting out the right voltage which is true but it was putting out the wrong amps. You can buy a voltage regulator online depending on the one in your alternator for under $20. I bought one new for $5 and soldered it in and my alternator has worked perfect sense. No more battery drains.

icecats87
09-22-2011, 06:56 PM
It's a bad voltage regulator I guarantee it. I had the same issue and it started making my batteries leak acid out of them. It would be fine for a few days and then it would slowly drain my battery to a point it wouldn't stay charged over night. My alternator would say its putting out the right voltage which is true but it was putting out the wrong amps. You can buy a voltage regulator online depending on the one in your alternator for under $20. I bought one new for $5 and soldered it in and my alternator has worked perfect sense. No more battery drains.

Ive never even herd of that, what and where is that? where did you buy it offline?

Starglow
09-22-2011, 07:09 PM
Ive never even herd of that, what and where is that? where did you buy it offline?

It is inside the alternator. Also check your battery cable connections on both ends and I don't mean just checking the mechanical connections... check them electrically as well. I've seen GM cars do very strange things due to a bad electrical connection either at the battery terminals or chassis ground connections. Clean them anyway even if you think they look ok and go from there.

G.I.Ceo
09-22-2011, 07:47 PM
Ive never even herd of that, what and where is that? where did you buy it offline?

Yeah the regulator is in the alternator. The regulator is what you plug your connector into the alternator.

icecats87
09-22-2011, 08:03 PM
Thats what i was thinking, well its dark now i unplugged the negative cable and in the morning before work if the car doesn't start then the battery is obviously bad right? I can get an alternator for $100 from work, mines the original one, and when you spin it you can hear a whine? ill do more tests tomorrow

icecats87
09-23-2011, 10:57 AM
un hooked my negative cable after fully charging the battery last night and went to start this morning and completely dead, so my 9 month old battery is junk, so hopefully thats whats been wrong

KillNThrill24
09-23-2011, 11:50 AM
is it a dura-crap battery from autozone?

icecats87
09-23-2011, 12:41 PM
is it a dura-crap battery from autozone?

Autocraft from advance autoparts, there was no napas near my school last year =( So taking home a new battery from work today

KillNThrill24
09-23-2011, 10:33 PM
interesting... iv had bad luck with battery's from walmart (haha i needed a battery on the fly) and some duralasts. never tried any advanced products im more of an autozone guy if i REALLY need something. if not i buy online. i think ill steer clear of Autocraft. let us know if this solves your problem

icecats87
09-24-2011, 08:21 AM
Car started this morning no problems, so for now im saying it is the battery, dropping my car off to get welded right now.

I work at napa so i get nice discounts and buy all my parts there, my best friends dad and brother owns one so i got a job, worked there for 2 years except last year when i was away for school. They had no napa's near my school so i had to get advance battery =( lol