Front brake problem? Help? [Archive] - GrandAmGT.com Forum

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blondiez24gt
03-20-2012, 02:08 PM
Ok, so about a month ago my car started making this grinding noise. I thought at first it was a wheel bearing, but every once in awhile the right front brake would lock up for a brief second. Then the abs light, and svs light would both come on.

I tried to have autozone scan it, but they said they can't scan anything but a check engine light. When I turn off the car, and then back on the lights clear. Sometimes it take two or three 20 mile trips before the brake will lock up, and trigger the lights again.

I jacked up the front of the car, and had my dad listen where the noise was coming from. Turns out it was the right font brake pads rubbing the rotor. I took the wheels off, and removed the caliper. I then started the car on the jack stands and listened for the noise again. The noise went away. So I went and got a new caliper. I put it on, and bled the brakes.

I still have the same deal going on. Same rubbing noise, and same braking problems. I'm guessing maybe the master cylinder? Is there like a valve that controls just the front right brake causing it to have to much pressure, or something? Any help would be great. Thanks

AaronGTR
03-20-2012, 03:44 PM
Nope. We only have two channel ABS. Front brakes and rear brakes are paired together on one solenoid each. They each have their own line of course coming from the ABS module.

blondiez24gt
03-20-2012, 05:44 PM
What could be causing this then? When its jacked up it has so much pressure on the front right caliper that the wheel doesn't spin until you give it quite a bit of gas. Then it makes a loud grinding noise where its like constantly grabbing. I checked the slides, and they're all working good, and I put a new caliper on it. What about the right front abs wheel sensor? Could that cause it to grab more than the left side if it was bad? Is there a way you can check stored codes without a code reader?

AaronGTR
03-20-2012, 09:14 PM
No, the wheel speed sensor wouldn't affect that. It doesn't have multi-channel braking, ie it can't brake one wheel and not the others. You step on the pedal and all brakes go on at once. It definitely sounds like something is making that caliper want to stay on though. Possibly a blockage in the brake line not letting the fluid return. Not even sure if that's possible, but I don't have any other ideas. I've never heard of anything like that before. There is no other way to read the codes from the ABS module or BCM either without a code reader. Autozone must not have the correct type and can only read engine codes. It sounds to me like you may need to take it to a shop.

blondiez24gt
03-21-2012, 06:54 AM
Alright thanks for the help. I'll call a shop and get an appointment.

blondiez24gt
03-21-2012, 09:11 AM
Alright before you responded last night i tried to read the codes with a paper clip. Not knowing yet you couldn't read the svs codes with it. Anyways I stuck the paper clip into the 4th, and 9th connectors. Then i did the key on to flash the codes. It popped up the check engine light like it said it would, but no codes flashed. So I turned the key off, and pulled out the paper clip. I never thought anything else about it. I went out to get in it to leave just now and started it up. No gauges work, and no lights light up besides the check engine light. It runs fine though. I unhooked the battery trying to reset it, but that did nothing. I checkED some of the fuses I thought would be associated with the gauges, and lights, but none were blown. What could this be. Thanks for any help.

zukiracer19
03-21-2012, 09:25 AM
Mine was grinding, needed new pads lol...

blondiez24gt
03-21-2012, 09:32 AM
The pads are like brand new on it. I just put them on about 5-6 months ago. When I changed the caliper I checked them. Its not doing it just when I hit the brake though. Its rubbing the rotor all the time making a grinding noise.

blondiez24gt
03-21-2012, 10:08 AM
Ok I fixed the gauges. It was a fuse blown. It wasn't broken apart. You couldn't even tell it was bad. I just started changing the fuses with new ones, and it fixed it. Still have brake problem though. I've got an appointment Friday. I told the guy on the phone what it was doing, and he said it sounds like one of the abs sensors in the wheel bearing is bad. If you just unplug the sensor would that maybe tell you if it was causing it to put more pressure to that brake? I mean would it stop screwing up if I just unplugged the sensor? Just a dumb idea. lol

AaronGTR
03-21-2012, 05:40 PM
Stop sticking paper clips into your electrical connectors! lol

I've NEVER heard of anyone reading a code like that anyway. Don't even know how it would work, but I'd never attempt it.

unchained_01
03-21-2012, 06:17 PM
First of all obd1 ,you could read the codes that way. Second you have obd2. Dont try to read codes like that again or you could blow the BCM or ECM and have to replace it. I have seen brake hoses ,break down from the inside and lock a caliper up. First try to bleed the caliper. And relieve the pressure. Then try pushing the pedal again and see it it frees up. If not replace the hose. I would also check and see if the piston moves freely in the caliper. Remove the caliper and take a "c" clamp and see if it can be pushed back in the caliper if not replace the caliper. I. Think your going to end up replacing the caliper Instead of the hose. I have only ever seem this 3 times in 30 yrs of working on cars. Disc brake also accumulate alot of rust on the surfaces that aren't used by the shoes. And should be removed.

blondiez24gt
03-22-2012, 07:03 AM
I replaced the caliper already, because I thought thats what it was. The piston did move freely, after I put the new caliper on. I also bled the brakes after installing it, and fluid seemed to come through it just like all the other lines. It filled up my little bleeder bottle that I had the little tubing going into.

Also the paper clip thing. I had someone tell me that GM designed the car to be done that way. So if you didn't have a reader you could still read the codes. I looked it up on the internet, and everything I read said of doing it that way on a OBD2 car too. It was called the jump-wire code reader.

I think I might of touched the wrong connector on accident with the paper clip at first, and thats probably what blew the fuse. It did pop up, and try to read the codes, but there were no engine codes. I guess doing it that way doesn't read the service vehicle soon, and abs light.

rocketfast123
03-22-2012, 07:39 AM
Also the paper clip thing. I had someone tell me that GM designed the car to be done that way. So if you didn't have a reader you could still read the codes. I looked it up on the internet, and everything I read said of doing it that way on a OBD2 car too. It was called the jump-wire code reader.



:banghead

It doesn't work on OBDII cars, On my 1984 OBDI Electra yes.

unchained_01
03-22-2012, 08:05 AM
I would replace the hose next if that not it then the ABS module needs reset or run thru a test ycle and that takes a TechII There is something seriously wrong going there , the last time i saw a hose that went bad it would bleed just fine but when the fulid tried to return back to the master cylinder it was blocked (one way flow) So i hope its something simple like that then replacing the ABS module they are expensive and have to be done at a dealer

blondiez24gt
03-22-2012, 09:15 AM
Ok that sounds possible to me. It has pressure to clamp the brakes, but not release them. Thats is really what its doing it is constantly clamping the rotor, and making a grinding noise where it is just constantly braking. The abs light isn't on until I usually brake at a stop then then the service vehicle soon, and abs light both come on.


Also here is where I read about checking obd2 codes. It did what it said it would do, but my check engine light didn't flash because there is no codes. I thought maybe if I did this it would pop up the service vehicle soon light and flash a code. It just did the check engine though.
http://www.ehow.com/how_2214653_read-obd2-codes.html read the 5th one

http://www.ehow.com/how_7273060_retrieve-obd2-code-scan-gauge.html read 6th one

blondiez24gt
03-22-2012, 10:15 AM
Unchained_01 If I were to jack the car up, and put it in drive and hear the brake gripping the rotor, and the open the bleeder would that release the pressure on the hose and let me know if thats the problem or not? I mean if i open the bleeder and the noise stops it would have to be the brake line not letting the pressure return wouldn't it?

unchained_01
03-23-2012, 08:20 AM
First remove the caliper and see if you can use a "C"clamp and see if the piston will go back into the caliper with out bleeding it If it won't move try bleeding it slowly and don't let air get in. If it moves back then the hose needs replaced

rocketfast123
03-23-2012, 03:19 PM
Also here is where I read about checking obd2 codes. It did what it said it would do, but my check engine light didn't flash because there is no codes. I thought maybe if I did this it would pop up the service vehicle soon light and flash a code. It just did the check engine though.
http://www.ehow.com/how_2214653_read-obd2-codes.html read the 5th one

http://www.ehow.com/how_7273060_retrieve-obd2-code-scan-gauge.html read 6th one

It doesn't say what car. Up untill around 2001 you could pull codes for mopar cars by cycling the key 3 times like on the pre OBDII mopar cars. That trick might work for a honda or somthing else. But we here at GAGT get all of our car info from ehow.com.

blondiez24gt
03-23-2012, 11:25 PM
I changed the brake hose, and the locking up stopped, and it sounds like some of the noise went away. I had it scanned, and it is the drivers side abs sensor bad. So I need to replace the drivers side wheel bearing. Hopefully after that everything will be good. Thanks for the help guys.

blondiez24gt
03-24-2012, 05:31 PM
I replaced the drivers side wheel bearing/hub today. The one that came off of it was like almost locked up. I couldn't even spin it by hand. Plus the wire that runs to the sensor plug in through where the cv axle goes was all tore up. I put the new one on, and everything works great now. Thanks for the help guys.

AaronGTR
03-24-2012, 11:05 PM
Awesome! Good to hear you found the problem and got it fixed. :)

unchained_01
03-25-2012, 10:09 AM
Great job !!!