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jd99gagt
05-04-2012, 09:21 PM
My GA was overheating, I found I had a broken Reservoir cap and I replaced it and it seemed to be running at normal/ around normal temp from there on but the low coolant indicator always pops on after I fill the res. and when I go to check the res. after it's empty. According to my haynes manual it takes 13.6 qts of coolant. A while ago I took the reservoir out and cleaned it out because there was a bunch of crap in it. I figured I lost a bit of coolant and my starting point was I haven't added enough. I can't spot any drips or leaks. Maybe the system is clogged up somewhere? Any suggestions?

locoman99
05-05-2012, 08:07 AM
Check your oil and see if it is going into your crankcase. It will look milky if so, do not drive the car until it is fixed. Sounds like your lim is prob goin bad, very common on these cars. you can fix yourself if you want. Use the search feature to find lots more info on this problem and i am sure there are many how to threads on fixing it.

danderryberry
05-05-2012, 08:19 AM
Here is an excellent walk through for replacing your LIM / Head gaskets.

http://www.grandamgt.com/forum/showthread.php?t=68087

I would have to agree with Berry, but add one other thing. Maybe a bad head gasket if you don't have any coolant/water in your crankcase. ( I just went through that one.)

Good luck.

Edit

After rereading my own post I see I added an extra word in there. It should have read:

Maybe a bad head gasket if you have any coolant/water in your crank case.

jd99gagt
05-05-2012, 01:55 PM
Wow, that sucks. my oil is definetly milky and it's way high. This is gonna be a pain in the balls. I just finished putting a new steering rack and pump in and now this Should be fun. thanks for the input.

jd99gagt
05-05-2012, 07:27 PM
I changed the oil, now it's to see if it rises back up again and get ****ty. How can coolant leak into the oil?I read in one of the recent threads that if coolant gets into your combustion chamber it will make steam and melt your cat. Wouldn't it not be able to fire if coolant got in the way?

jd99gagt
05-05-2012, 08:56 PM
took another ride, rechecked the oil and it went back up. Whitish/yellow. Looks like I'm about to tackle a lim gasket, hopefully nothing's wrong with the head gaskets since someone already snapped off two of the exhaust manifold studs and the others are extremely rusted.It doesn't sound dreadful, wish me luck.

sugar ray
05-06-2012, 01:05 AM
I changed the oil, now it's to see if it rises back up again and get ****ty. How can coolant leak into the oil?I read in one of the recent threads that if coolant gets into your combustion chamber it will make steam and melt your cat. Wouldn't it not be able to fire if coolant got in the way?


Coolant easily leaks into the oil if your head gasket or Lower intake manifold gasket fails. A gasket works as a seal. Once the seal fails, any fluid passing through or around that seal will leak into places it shouldn't.

I tackled this job in my 2002 a couple years back. It is not as bad as it initially looks. Just take your time.

A couple pieces of advice I can offer you. First up....once your in there, don't just change the LIM gasket. You are in there anyways. Pull the heads off and do the head gaskets as well. I would suggest using Felpro's "problem solver" kit. Comes with everything you need and the gasket portion is metal as apposed to the crummy rubber your stock gasket was made out of.

Next....yes you are correct. Snapping those exhaust studs is almost inevitable. I snapped 2 while taking it apart. The studs that come out of the heads are worse and snap easily. If you are taking your heads off anyways.....don't worry about it. If it snaps just re-thread and tap. Simple enough to do once the heads are out of the car. Those studs are special. You probably won't find them at your auto parts store. I had to get mine from the STEALERSHIP at about $7 per stud!! What I highly suggest is using "never seize" A small amount of never seize when putting it back together and your exhaust stud threads will never rust or lock up up ever again should you ever have to go back in.

Last thing that I wanted to add that may be extremely helpful during the "put back together stage." After you have seated all of the push rods in to all the rocker arms, crank the engine over by hand a few times. This will require 2 people. By taking off the front passenger side tire you will see 2 small round plastic clips that hold on a splash shield. Remove the clips via needle nose pliers. Behind the splash shield will gain you access to the balancer pulley. Using an extension you can get a 18mm (i think) socket onto the pulley bolt. Have your assistant crank the engine over by hand a few times while you inspect all the rods and rocker arms, making sure they behave as they should. If your plugs are in you may want to remove them for this step. Cranking over with plugs in causes lots of compression meaning its hard to crank the engine over by hand. Still doable just hard on the muscles of the guy cranking.

I found this step very valuable in my case. Had I skipped this step I would have been in the same boat as a previous poster. AKA: sounds like a lumpy cam, runs not good. 2 of my rods were NOT seated correctly. By cranking the engine by hand I could verify this and correct the problem before rebuilding. It was 2 rods on the back head. Its tough to see back there if the rods seat 100% correctly. Fronts NO problem!

jd99gagt
05-06-2012, 09:57 AM
Would a compresion test verify if the head gaskets are good or would it only be a portion of the hg that's no good that's used for lubricating rocker arms/pushrods. Hopefully the heads aren't warped since it was running at full overheat for prob about a little under 5 minutes last year. Thanks for the info on the heads, if they come off I'll probably take the to a shop to get tapped. New England winter road conditions are really harsh when it comes to Important things like exhaust manifold studs and brake lines and ****. I'm gonna try to prime and paint every bit of steel I need to have off. I envy all the under the hood pics of the southern cars I see posted up on here,it's really ideal. I'm considering moving down there in the future and could probably save money without **** rusting away.

danderryberry
05-06-2012, 10:31 AM
Doing a compression test would be a good idea. It would help pin point the cause of your coolant leak. But I agree with Sean. Go ahead and do your head gaskets while your in there. If they are not leaking right now, they probably will be. Since it overheated to redline, you might have warped the heads.

Get your heads to a good machinist and have them pressure tested to make sure they are not cracked and then have them rebuilt if they pass the pressure test and your valves are good.

The other concern is the coolant mixing with your oil. Coolant is like acid to main bearings and com bearings. The longer it is in there the more it is going to eat through the bearings. Get the oil drained out as soon as possible.

When I lost my LIM gasket in my '97 S10, I had the milk shake in my crankcase. I drained the oil immediately upon getting it back home and removed the oil filter. I replaced the LIM and UIM gaskets, installed a new oil filter, filled her up with 3.5 quarts of oil and a quart of engine flush. Ran the motor for 20 minutes and did it again to help clean out the milk shake from everything. Ended up with a ticking lifter over number one at idle, but 20K miles later she is still running strong. Other people that I have spoken with did not run the engine flush and ended up rebuilding the motor because the lower end seized up on them.


Hope that helps.

jd99gagt
05-06-2012, 10:43 AM
Nice, great advice. Engine flush will be on the list and the engine will get drained soon and will get ran not.

locoman99
05-06-2012, 11:00 AM
Your bearings are shot or very close to it. Dont waste the time or money doing yoir headgaskets if you domt need. Your engine needs the lim fixed and hope it will run long enough to save money for a swap or rebuild.

jd99gagt
05-06-2012, 11:19 AM
I hope not, I started it real quick last night after it cooled back down and then it didn't make engine noise. Hopefully it will stay that way or I run into a miracle but we all know that doesn't happen. I really don't want to replace bearings on tarps over a dirt driveway but it is what it is. We'll see what happens once the new gaskets are in place and the engine is flushed with new oil and dexcool in after it heats. Other than what I described, for the short time it ran it ran good. The outcome will be invaluable.

jd99gagt
05-06-2012, 11:58 AM
I need to know how to delete posts.

jd99gagt
05-07-2012, 04:35 PM
I don't know if this means anything or not...When I took the bolts out that hold the LIM down they were covered in the crappy oil. Shouldn't the gasket keep oil away from them or are they always covered in oil and the gasket is just for seperating oil from coolant?

danderryberry
05-07-2012, 05:42 PM
I need to know how to delete posts.

if you post something you want to delete, click on the edit button of the post and you will see a delete button there in the lower right hand corner options.

Edit:

Here are a few pics to help out.

http://www.holexplumbing.com/images/delete1a.jpg
http://www.holexplumbing.com/images/delete2a.jpg

jd99gagt
05-07-2012, 09:13 PM
yea I still can't see the delete icon anywhere.

danderryberry
05-08-2012, 06:52 AM
I don't know if this means anything or not...When I took the bolts out that hold the LIM down they were covered in the crappy oil. Shouldn't the gasket keep oil away from them or are they always covered in oil and the gasket is just for seperating oil from coolant?

That is pretty typical. Make sure you clean out the holes really good before you start to reassemble your top end. And don't forget to machine your heads. You'll be :driving: it again before you know it.

jd99gagt
05-15-2012, 07:51 PM
Put new lim gaskets in, no overheating and coolant seems to staying at a good level.I'm gonna drain the oil out tomorrow because I ran 3 quarts and a quart of engine flush for a while and it starting raining but it looks clean! There is no ticking that I could hear coming from the engine anymore since I re torqued the rocker bolts and the engine doesn't make any noise at operating temp. like I described before.

FutureDC_FLY_GT
05-18-2012, 09:20 PM
D
Other people that I have spoken with did not run the engine flush and ended up rebuilding the motor because the lower end seized up on them.


Hope that helps.

Hi I have a question about the engine flush. What exactly is that, is it like a coolant flush except with oil in the engine? I think I may need this...

I just had work done on my car (gaskets, thermostat, starter, etc) After I picked it up I noticed that the coolant in my reservoir went from red color to a mix of red and a slightly brown watery color with a separation between the red and the watery brown - kind of like a salad dressing bottle. My car is running hot still.

I am hoping if I get the coolant exchanged that my car will be running normal temperature. Is it better to just get the coolant drained or flushed and should I also ask them to flush my engine ?

I am up to 120 k miles on my 99 GA and I recently had a total coolant loss after my engine had overheated (before it was in the shop), which was when I replaced the empty reservoir and refilled the coolant myself.

Here is a video of my old reservoir if you'd like to see the gunk buildup:

http://youtu.be/I2zvhx7VcNA

Thanks for your time and expertise.

UndeadGods
05-18-2012, 09:45 PM
Hi I have a question about the engine flush. What exactly is that, is it like a coolant flush except with oil in the engine? I think I may need this...

I just had work done on my car (gaskets, thermostat, starter, etc) After I picked it up I noticed that the coolant in my reservoir went from red color to a mix of red and a slightly brown watery color with a separation between the red and the watery brown - kind of like a salad dressing bottle. My car is running hot still.

I am hoping if I get the coolant exchanged that my car will be running normal temperature. Is it better to just get the coolant drained or flushed and should I also ask them to flush my engine ?

I am up to 120 k miles on my 99 GA and I recently had a total coolant loss after my engine had overheated (before it was in the shop), which was when I replaced the empty reservoir and refilled the coolant myself.

Here is a video of my old reservoir if you'd like to see the gunk buildup:

http://youtu.be/I2zvhx7VcNA

Thanks for your time and expertise.

Get it flushed.
Engine flush is done before oil change, an additive is added to the oil and the car is idled for about 10 minutes. Then the oil is drained.

What engine flush does is it breaks down all the deposits and gunk that piles up in the engine + oil pan and then flushes it all out - thus the name.
I do an engine flush every oil change.

FutureDC_FLY_GT
05-19-2012, 02:41 PM
Ah ok thanks for the info. I think I almost have it clear. This end result sounds similar to a fuel system tune up where they spray a cleaner into the engine to clean deposits from the manifold, valves, combustion chamber, then they clean the throttle plate w/throttle & carb cleaner, let the car run for a few minutes rev it up then it spews some lovely smoke out the pipes, then they pour an additive into the fuel tank.

I called a local shop and they told me they do not do engine flushes anymore bc it may foul up a pump if the gunk does not all properly drain into the pan. I have the fuel system tune up kit and but I need to find a place I can blow some smoke around here without causing a scene.

I also asked about coolant color. This shop told me theirs would not be red b/c they use a universal coolant that is a watery brown color and said it is ok to use this in my GM car. I am not a big fan of the dirty water look though.

Luckily I did not have to let anyone else touch the car and I was jumping the gun on it running hot bc it is only slightly elevated and not even close to red line yet, but I will keep a good eye on the temp gauge and if I have any future concerns I will take it the professionals who got me back up and running. All in all, the beast is back!:applause: