pushrod tips scored up? [Archive] - GrandAmGT.com Forum


View Full Version : pushrod tips scored up?

05-10-2012, 03:27 PM
I was jsut analyzing my pushrods and all but one is scored up where it sits in the rocker arm. The part of the rocker arms where the pushrod sits is scored up to,except for one. I would think that that's not normal wear. Should i jsut go and get new pushrods and rocker arms?

05-10-2012, 03:42 PM
Got pics?

05-11-2012, 11:40 AM
I don't have a camera anymore but it looks like someone took them to a grinding wheel. Someone had to of done it themselves it doesn't look like sand could've done it at all plus I took a peek at the cam and it looks nice and smooth. Maybe so they would seat beter or something.Idk. I put everything back together anyway but I'm at a standstill until I can get more cleaner for vc/uim gasket surfaces.I don't know why you'd grind pushrods but I've never had a whole lot of exp. building motors. I priced out new rocker arms and pushrods from napa anyway and I think some guy in the background told the lady on the phone that they have to be machined. If so, It'd be nice to know why.:iconfused

05-11-2012, 03:01 PM
Well, looking at the cam wouldn't really tell you anything about the pushrods since there is a hydraulic roller lifter in between them. ;) It might tell you if the lifter rollers are working properly, but you can pull the lifters out to check that. I can tell you though, both ends of the pushrods, and the cups in the rocker arms and lifters, should all be smooth. If they are that rough, my first guess would be oiling issues. It's hard to say without seeing them, or knowing what the previous oil pressure was or if there where any lifters ticking.

Also given the age of the car, I would assume it has a lot of miles on the engine? Also multiple previous owners? There would be no way of knowing how well the car was maintained before... what kind of oil was used and if it was changed at correct intervals (or at all?). Some of the oil passages could have got clogged up. If that happened, and there was significant wear on the valve train parts, there's no telling what else could be worn. If there were metal particles getting in the oil at the heads, it would drain back to the oil pan and go over the cam first, then get picked up by the oil pump. A worn oil pump will just drop pressure even further. There's no way to tell though until the engine is running again, and you have to hook a pressure gauge to the port on the front of the engine block, since there is no stock oil pressure sensor.

For now I'd say it's a safe bet you are going to have to replace some parts. Rocker arms, pushrods, and I'd get new lifters as well. At least that way you know everything is new and working properly. If the old parts were bad, you might even pick up some power from getting full valve lift again and decreased friction. I also don't know why anyone would say anything needs to be machined either though. As long as the block/heads aren't damaged, then all those parts should simply bolt right in.

05-11-2012, 04:23 PM
Well the only thing that sux is that I already put it back together. After looking at them some more I know for a fact that someone grinded them down on a grinding wheel because there are grind marks going up-down and than you'll twist it 90 degrees and there will be grind marks going left-right. Dirt/Sand can't do that seeing how the the rocker arm only tips up and down a short distance and even than there would still probably be smooth spots on the tops. Now the pushrods sit in the rocker arms a little deeper which will lead to a little less valve lift. It really sucks but I need my car to get around don't have any more time to waste without it and It ran good like that before so I know it will run good again and there were no metal shards that I could see or when I drained the oil.It really sucks that I have to mention that in a paragraph about my car but it is what it is. If I had known that some dumba** F*cked up my valve train than I would have been prepared for this but I'm gonna have to get a new gasket set,rocker arms and pushrods when I get paid again. Who knows what would drive someone to do that but it just gave me a little more caution when it comes to purchasing used cars.

05-11-2012, 08:03 PM
Here's my take on it..

I don't really think you -need- to replace the lifters so long as you didn't have the same marks on the lifter side of the pushrod as you did on the rocker arm side. I think pushrods and rockers would suit you just fine. To replace those you don't have to go any further than the valve covers. You just have to make sure to put the correct length pushrods in the correct place.

One thing you could do to clean out the oil passageways would be to add 1/4 of a quart of ATF to your engine oil and let the car run for about 20 to 30 minutes. Then perform an oil and filter change.

The added conditioners in the ATF will dissolve any buildup in the oil passageways and begin circulating it to be caught by the oil filter. We've done this at work a few times to free up rattling camshaft phasers and it works pretty well. Just be sure to change the oil afterwards.

05-11-2012, 08:31 PM
Yup.Every pushrod on the lifter side is smooth. New rocker arms and pushrods will cost over $200 which sucks. ATF in the oil?? Never heard of it......

05-12-2012, 12:29 PM
Yup.Every pushrod on the lifter side is smooth. New rocker arms and pushrods will cost over $200 which sucks. ATF in the oil?? Never heard of it......

Its good to clean any deposists out. But only for a temporary run up to temperature and then followed by an oil change.

Its an old school trick.

05-12-2012, 02:24 PM
hmm, running the ATF in there could also help clean out and free up a sticking lifter as well, don't you think? If the lifter side of the pushrods are indeed smooth and the lifter cups are damaged, then yeah that might be a good idea. Just change rockers and pushrods and that way you only need to remove the valve covers. If the engine hasn't been run and got hot yet, you should be able to easily reuse the valve cover gaskets.