Need the mechanic incline to reply [Archive] - Forum


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07-10-2012, 04:58 AM
Service engine light been on for about 2 or 3 years, Steady not blinking, I only put about 1000 klms on it per year. And I don't get a chance to use certian features of the car, like cruise control.

So I took car in about a year or so ago to GM dealer the nput machine on under the dash and it read ______ something I just can't remember exactly what he said it was. He did say he could turn service engine light off , but it would adventually come back on.

It did a couple months later. Now A year has past and this year I have drove the car alot more then normal. I also had a chance to use cruise. But when I did it stayed on for only a couple klms / a few minutes. I tried serveral times same result. And last try it would not come on at all.

So I am thinking what ever is above the gas tank , where the tank needs to removed to repair must be the item/part effecting my cruise. and maybe at the odd time a ideal pulse which leaves anyways as soon as I give her so gas. And has only done it about twice during fule fill up.

Funny too the exact same fule station and pump both times kepted continueing to shut off when I pumped gas at max speed. That could be just the gas station pump. Nothing to do with my car ??? Yes fuel cap and neck etc are pefect and been checked.

So about a year ago in trying to remember what the bad part was above the tank an GM tuner gent suggested this >>>Back there is the fuel pump, fuel level sensor for the gas guage. Then there's the evaporative emissions system parts. Purge solenoid, evap canister, and vent valve.

I also seem to remember GM guy saying it was some type of sensor ????


07-10-2012, 07:32 PM
It sounds like you have two different problems here. One with the fuel pump shutting off consistantly and one with cruise control inop.

The cruise is an electrical issue and we'll have no idea without getting our hands on the car.

The SES light and fuel pump shutting off MAY be related to the evap vent solenoid.... but we can't be positive without a code.

07-10-2012, 09:47 PM
yeah, it's definitely two separate issues. Nothing above your gas tank has anything to do with the cruise control. And as Scott said... without codes, there isn't a lot we can tell you. Need to take it to an auto parts store and see if they can scan if for you. Most will do it for free.

07-11-2012, 05:15 AM
I will try to find somwone with the machine. Always figured someday I would buy one. But you have to know how to use them. Well I trust no garage so therelikely to tell me I got everything from the moon happening to my car and i want be able to know to tell them they are wrong.

PS: working on my cruise issue. Just went on a test hwy run at 80 to 100 KLMS, back and fourth same hwy. Well still have SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT on, now a bit later I will tell you of a list of cruise issues and fixes and one mentions if certian DTC's are on like SERVICE VEHICLE LIGHT it can effect cruise operation. So my three cruise button switchlights are on, and my cruise LED and cruise word on speedo works. Set /coast speed works and resume / acel speed button works ,all work.

On the way up during different distances and time limits my cruise stopped and went off about 6 times give or take. But on the same track and distance back it only went off once maybe twice. I check 3 fuses and connection to module and even disconnected and reconnected it just before I headed back that distance.I don't know if I should fool with the brake pedal switch when I do adventually locate it ?? where EXACTLY ??
So I guess I need to check all these items I have yet to check YES ????

And that SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT that's always on. Well I was repolishing a billet cover MRZ map sensor i had to disconnect it for about 45 minutes. When I pugged it all back in , my SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT went off.
And drove around for about an hour still off. Sitting over night it is now back on.Wounder what effect it would had have on my cruise had it stayed off for this test run. But Do not want to disconect that part again to hard to bolt back to bracket.

....checked all fuses and wiring....OK
....rear brakes lights don't work no cruise....OK
....brake position sensor
....if intermittent then Mine did this and I checked the brake switch for being loose/ground and also cleaned the wiring at the cruise unit it self and used dielectric greased it and it works alot better or replaced the cruise control switch next to the brake switch. You should be able to see if it is making contact with your foot off the brake. If so just pull it out a little, it will "click" as you adjust it
Try to adjust the switch at the brake pedal. It gets out of adjustment. It "clicks" as you pull or push it. Very likely the prob. Sorry I don't remember which of the 2 switches is for the cruise, the other is for the brake lights. Look down by your brake pedel. There are 2 switches thereMost likely cause is a worn spring in the brake lamp switch. I've seen it happen quite a few times. You can adjust it as 350rs mentioned or replace it
....when driving try "pulling" the brake pedal toward you with your left foot as you try and set it. if you have the dexterity anyway and can do it safely. As safe as something like that can be.. If that lets it work then that switch is indeed your problem. try adjusting, or replacing
....Before delving in -- any other seemingly unrelated problems? Cruise will be disabled if, say, the 'low brake fluid' indicator is lit, certain DTCs are set (ck eng light on?), or park brake is reported as engaged ('brake' indicator lit?) Speedo working normally?
....probably a bad clock spring...that would give the air bag light sometimes and would also make for no connection on the cruise....
....If the CC disable switch has been moved or come out of adjustment it MAY be causing your problem. Would hate to see you have to fight the clockspring until you know for sure that is the problem.
....clock spring youll need a t30 torx that is fairly long to get to the back side bolts on the steering wheel then you gotta pull the steering wheel...then you gotta pull the gauge cluster off to get to the wiring...i was only going to save you 1/2 the trouble
.... cruise control switch removal > t I thought there were some screws inside holding the bracket on, and you needed to remove the steering wheel and the back cover to get to them? I know there is some wiring in there that needs to be disconnected back at the steering column.You just have to pull the airbag off to get to the switches.There are two screws holding the airbag in from behind. Once its out of the way you can see the two screws that hold in the buttons. Both the airbag and cruise buttons require a torx bit (I dont have the sizes off hand) but buy yourself a long enough set to get to the ones that hold the airbag in.The black clam shell piece on the steering column has to come off to get good access to the airbag bolts. This link to step 4 will show you how to do it and what you need. (

07-11-2012, 10:28 AM
U dont need to be a genious to know how to use OBD2 scanner, its direct plug in into the port, scans, and gives gou codes which you can look up online. You can pick one up for 100-200$

07-13-2012, 01:34 AM
Weird just finished same trip again for testing purposes, just a little shorter. And the cruise worked PERFECTLY and I ran it though test of speeds from just below 60 klms to up to just over 100 klms. and stepping on brake and resuming and increasing the cruise speed while in / on cruise mod. Bumps etc . worked great.

In this case or with cars is it possible that the old saying if you don't use something enough or in my case for a SERVERAL years in my case ( only did short runs for years )that they can sort of go to sleep or go into forget mode ???

So looks like now there is just that other problem I mention in this thread the sensor OR that is above the tank , that keeps my SERVICE ENGINE light on. So looking to find a OBD2 machine.

Funny too I clean a small mechanic shop, I bet they have one. I might be able to use it on my car one night when I am cleaning there building . But I would need a Step By Step Detail understanding of how I can get it to work for me. I know you plug it in under the dash on drivers side.

So if someone can and wants to help out their, just be very detail for me. I don't pickup things too easily. Thanks You guys on this site know your stuff and with out you folks and this site I would have been in alot more trouble and more expense over these years.

07-22-2012, 08:30 AM
Can anyone find and send me operational instructions for a diagnoistic machine call GENISYS EVO . I have googled and find nothing that allows ME to be ABLE to open to see or save etc etc.

07-22-2012, 02:49 PM

07-22-2012, 03:27 PM
WOW that was a fast reply. Now can you tell me what steps where to go with that info , what to do with it in order to get answers to my SERVICE ENGINE light that is on. And I nkow it has soemthing to do with some part that is above my gas tank.

07-22-2012, 04:04 PM
All the info is on that page. Watch the modules and learn how to use the device. After that all will be alittle better to understand. Pretty self explanatory once your done all of those.

07-22-2012, 04:39 PM
okay thankyou

07-22-2012, 04:44 PM
I the photos are in order of what I did first.
Can I use this machine to fix my problem ?
Of cousre once plugged in, it remove the service engine light that was on.
But I imagine it will come back on soon again.

07-22-2012, 04:47 PM
photos...I gather these are the machines list of causes. So how would GM appoach this. Just replace one thing after another or test ort be able to test each thing in that list ?

07-23-2012, 01:36 PM
GM would actually test your vehicle to see if your vent solenoid is receiving proper power and ground at the pass-through connector going to the fuel tank harness.

if there was good power and ground while commanding the vent solenoid I would then replace the vent solenoid.

Truth is that one solenoid on top of the tank is probably the entire root of the problem. Its likely clogged with dirt. The reason you're setting a code is because the ECM isn't seeing the expected results when commanding the solenoid on and off.

Also, historically when that code presents its going to be the solenoid as that and wiring are the most likely points of failure.

07-23-2012, 01:43 PM
Can I dump fuel cleaner in my tank every so often to clean it out. I would say then if it is dirt inside something then it would be any residue from fuel YES ?? Or if outside the item clogging things up I would say rust check product doing it ??? It certian I would think in my case be road debris etc.

07-28-2012, 03:41 PM
At the pumps when I turn pump on full it shuts the gas pump off at the station as I fill. I can get / put gas in if I do not pump at full speed. A friend says I have a bad vent.

Doesn't help me much there, not much detail. Borrowing code reader to clear that service code sunday and got new gas cap to see if it comes back on after I clear code. Likely will. Code up is P0446B

07-28-2012, 03:56 PM
Truth is that one solenoid on top of the tank is probably the entire root of the problem. Its likely clogged with dirt. The reason you're setting a code is because the ECM isn't seeing the expected results when commanding the solenoid on and off.

Yeah. You need a vent solenoid. There's also not any way to clean it out other than removing the fuel tank and the solenoid itself for disassembly.

Its time to remove the tank and replace the solenoid.

07-28-2012, 04:29 PM
So there is just one solenoid. If so do we have a more exact name for this. More I know or look like I know the less I HOPE that GM won't rip me off. Doesn't seem to be creating too much problems to date.

And been on for along serveral months now over the 2 years of just summer driving , light summer driving around 1000 klms give or take both years. Still just on steady.

Maybe causing the gas station fill up situation and I MAYBE get ever once in a while a serge in RPM over the amount I step on the pedal to get ????

07-29-2012, 11:49 AM
Also guys, When used the machine again, I of cousre went to Engine diagonostics and looks like you can TEST many parts of the engine etc etc / do many other things with these large garage machines. So does that mean if I learn more to better know how to use this , I can then pin point the problem to the TEE.

Jus flipping around in the engine section and came up with this but have no idea how to read / interpet this or whether these are good or bad things I found.

EVAP Canister Purge 27 %
EVAP Fault History Excess Vac
EVAP Vent Solenoid Open
EVAP Vent Solenoid SHRT
Fuel Tank Pressure -56.61
Fuel Tank Pressure 0.22 V

Also like said looks like I can test things like:

Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor
EVAP Canister Purge Valve
EVAP Canister Vent Valve

Another section test:

Canister Purge Solenoid
Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor

07-29-2012, 12:13 PM
Okay went to www.GMPARTSEAST.COM (http://www.GMPARTSEAST.COM) did that thanks.. So I should be looking at this section >>
Pontiac 2000-2005 N, Vapor Canister & Related Parts, (LA1/3.4E) and parts that need fix or replace would be any of these #4, #6, #11.....?????
to where my problem lies versus this section >>
Pontiac 2000-2006 N, Fuel Tank, & Mounting

Even though to fix the problem it llooks like the section >>Pontiac 2000-2006 N, Fuel Tank, & Mounting, would be the area a mechanic would have to start first i nremoving my tank etc correct ???

08-25-2012, 05:38 PM
Hi Gents, my service engine light did finally come back on despite me clearing it with the machine and replace the gas cap. So I borrowed the machine again to further see if I could have it further show me more details / closer to the point as to what my actual, problem for light being on.

So I have light on and gas station pumps shut off continuesly if I try to pump at full speed. And I guess for a few years I could feel at times while driving a small surge of gas or power off and on. May have been around for as long as that light as been on in my car , ??? not 100% sure .

I did notice last night , I set my car on cruise just a hair above 80 KLMS , so I could pay attention / watch my RPM make eratic jumps. Say from 1500 to 2000 rmp and sometimes 1500 say to 1700 as example. I do not think I felt any surge in gas / speed as it sayed on the jsut above 80 KLMS I set the cruise at.

So are all these things one in the same and reason for that light being on ?? I went threw many sections of the machines sections etc. I took photos step by step for each section and or procedure. But honestly gents I don 't know what to make of the info I saw.

OTHER then one test section > SCAN COMPONENT TEST PROCEDURE of these 3 items >> FUEL TANK PRESSURE SENSOR & EVAP CANISTER PURGE VALVE & EVAP CANISTER VENT VALVE, ( funny I believe they all ready ALL the exact details / info for each of those 3 parts ), and one thing sort of stood out to me and said EVAP Fault History ( flashing back & fourth )>>> Small Leak then Weak Vac . In all my checking with this machine I just do not understand the Percentages % they show in areas, and what any of the number they show in areas, and when it uses the words YES or NO or CLOSED or OPEN.

So is there any one of you nice gents I could email the in order photos I took ( serveral of them ) so that you can read / interpet things and help me understand things more / better.

08-27-2012, 03:47 PM
If you have the small leak evap code coming up on a car as old as your 2k or my 99 it is probably the filler neck leaking. I changed both the valves on my car and i have new fuel lines and a new tank and the code was still driving me crazy. I thought my neck was in great shape after sandblasting and painting it but it turned out that they leak where rusts forms between the plastic on the end and the metal the neck is made out of. Maybe you can try putting some sealer there temporarily to test it.

08-27-2012, 04:52 PM
Ya might try that caulking of the neck. Again with my luck it won't be that easy / cheap of a fix. LOL.

08-27-2012, 06:14 PM
Ya might try that caulking of the neck. Again with my luck it won't be that easy / cheap of a fix. LOL.

I'll bet it is the filler neck and you can buy it new for around $65 on Amazon. It drove me crazy and i even tried smoking it and i couldn't find the leak. Someone i know had one go bad on a 99 malibu so i figured i would try it and it worked. The tube looked so good unless you look real close and see the pitting where the metal contacts the plastic piece that the cap seals on.

08-27-2012, 10:12 PM
I bought a Dorman 577915 filler neck from rockauto using a 5% code that made them the cheapest. Current promo code is "107703168845393". It is $47.79 before shipping and the promo code.