4T45E Guru's here? [Archive] - GrandAmGT.com Forum

PDA

View Full Version : 4T45E Guru's here?


zukiracer19
05-16-2013, 02:36 PM
Ok... got car back.. I noticed a lot of things... (swapped with a 78K transmission with warranty).

One... Misfire like a mofo, New plugs, wires, the whole shabang. ( I WANT THIS CAR GONE) still idling hard, I did have a code but the guy at advanced auto reset it and completely forgot what it was. Damnit. I'm sure it will pop up after the cycle on mileage. I do know I'm only getting 14-16 mpgs though :(

My question to you is... Does the transmission module located at top of transmission have a vacuum line?

This was a blocking nipple to it.. not sure if our transmissions need a vacuum line to there.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/268940_10200738712983163_1954589_n.jpg

Now ... Right below the MAP sensor lying behind the coils, there is a orange, blue and black box... with the FPR vacuum hose going to it... and a connector... and the other side on mine has nothing just an open hole? this is all old so I can't remember last time i had the car apart how it was...

zukiracer19
05-16-2013, 02:52 PM
Forgot to add, Car doesn't have any power like it did before I put this transmission in, Can't decide what gear to stay in/or just falling out of gear, will not shift under full load just stayed revved up.(Shifts smoothly thought without having to accelerate hard)

I also think the code I had has to do with O2S Malfunction possibly? Guy at advanced said it sounds like a really big vacuum leak past the MAF that its not metering right and throwing it off...

AaronGTR
05-16-2013, 04:23 PM
Got a pic of this orange/blue/black box thing? Shouldn't be anything there that I know of. There should be a vacuum line coming off the back of the UIM that has a "T" going to the MAP sensor, then a tube comes off the back and goes up to the FPR. Shouldn't be any holes or anything no hooked up, otherwise you'll have a bad vacuum leak.


And no, there is no vacuum line going to the trans on these cars. They are completely electronically controlled.

O1GAGT
05-16-2013, 04:50 PM
That is just a vent that is on the gear selector/neutral safety switch.

zukiracer19
05-16-2013, 04:55 PM
nvm it was just the connector pin, its underneath the map behind coil pack.
https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/260199_10200739281357372_164718605_n.jpg

zukiracer19
05-16-2013, 05:03 PM
Like after driving for a bit if I shut my car off it will die without gas. I opened oil cap and engine died. I replaced pcv valve now car doesn't shut off when taking oil cap off... but still idles bad

jackal2000
05-16-2013, 05:56 PM
Maybe a crankshaft variation relearn?

A crankshaft variation relearn must be performed if:
A diagnostic trouble code of P1336 is present.
The computer has been replaced or re-programmed.
The crankshaft position sensor has been replaced.
The engine, harmonic balancer, clutch, or flywheel have been: disassembled, removed, or replaced

This article also says that you may want to manually shift the transmission for the first few gear changes.

http://www.bsecorp.com/files/techtips/ST9303l.pdf

T50
05-16-2013, 06:40 PM
Is it still misfiring? I see from the picture you still have orig coil packs, those can cause misfires

zukiracer19
05-16-2013, 06:56 PM
Still had the original plugs and wires too haha but car has 119000. I bought it in 07 with 65000

zukiracer19
05-17-2013, 04:57 AM
The code had to do with o2s. Something with heat. I do notice car heats up very fast then stays at 180 unless I get in traffic then it goes a quarter way over 200... no leaks in oil or external and I bled the line. Low coolant light stays on after I replaced it and is always up to line

sleepyalero
05-17-2013, 07:35 AM
The heat is normal, on a nice warm day in traffic (before 6 speed and tune with fans to kick on to keep car around 180*) my car would go between the middle and 3/4 mark. If your fans aren't kicking on I wouldn't worry to much. Fans stock are set to kick on at like..... 230 something?

zukiracer19
05-17-2013, 03:32 PM
Yeah fan kicks in on mine around there.. but It amazes me how much power loss it has just from trans swap... im wondering if they bumped a vacuum hose off somewhere?

kzulfic
05-17-2013, 03:42 PM
Still the original catalytic converter?

zukiracer19
05-17-2013, 03:45 PM
I took it off before turbo... had a open cutout... then put stock cat back in... car has been turboed most of its life since i've had it.

sleepyalero
05-17-2013, 03:51 PM
how come ive never seen pics of this turbo build.

kzulfic
05-17-2013, 04:01 PM
Are you positive you don't have some plug wires crossed?

zukiracer19
05-17-2013, 04:04 PM
pics:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/18155_1272059614568_1293341_n.jpg
https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/4317_1096842114240_3433714_n.jpg

zukiracer19
05-17-2013, 04:05 PM
Yeah, it did this before plug wires were changed thats why i changed them.

zukiracer19
05-17-2013, 04:07 PM
& it's not as rough of an idle as it would if they were crossed. But you can still feel the misfire... but car literally has no power... I can step on it and it moves like a 1989 4 cyl cavalier.

kzulfic
05-17-2013, 04:15 PM
Yeah, it did this before plug wires were changed thats why i changed them.

Ok, did you follow the way they were when you got it back, or a diagram of the firing order?

kzulfic
05-17-2013, 04:18 PM
& it's not as rough of an idle as it would if they were crossed. But you can still feel the misfire... but car literally has no power... I can step on it and it moves like a 1989 4 cyl cavalier.

I suppose you can pull your O2 sensor(before the CAT) see if that makes a difference. Sounds similar to a clogged CAT, but Idk with the shifting problems.

sleepyalero
05-17-2013, 04:19 PM
nice, hp/tq?

zukiracer19
05-17-2013, 04:24 PM
No idea... I lost first gear and major slipping in trans ... and a boost leak on manifold... 4 psi peaking at 5k rpms and car ran a 14.013 @ 103 mph. After a new trans and a motor rebuild with some upgraded internals I blew the seals out on first time i hit boost so i said F it and sold everything. then the built trans i had in grenaded when it was stock.

zukiracer19
05-17-2013, 04:25 PM
I suppose you can pull your O2 sensor(before the CAT) see if that makes a difference. Sounds similar to a clogged CAT, but Idk with the shifting problems.

What would that show? keep the sensor plugged in just pull it out?

zukiracer19
05-17-2013, 04:32 PM
the way i had them on before. If you dont mind posting the diagram i could double check. But i still dont see it being the issue but i won't overlook it.

kzulfic
05-17-2013, 04:55 PM
What would that show? keep the sensor plugged in just pull it out?

If your cat was clogged it would relieve the back pressure. If it is clogged you should notice some restored power. Yes, I would leave it plugged in, just tie it out of the way. Don't drive too long like this, just enough to check.

Really you should drill a hole instead of removing the sensor, but if the CAT isn't the problem, then you have a hole that needs welded shut.

the way i had them on before. If you dont mind posting the diagram i could double check. But i still dont see it being the issue but i won't overlook it.


5-2 3-6 4-1

1-3-5
2-4-6

zukiracer19
05-17-2013, 05:00 PM
1 being the passenger side closest to firewall correct?

kzulfic
05-17-2013, 05:02 PM
Yes.

zukiracer19
05-17-2013, 06:00 PM
I'll do that tomorrow, only 8 pm but I'm ready for bed. Thanks.