Pass(lock!) frustrations [Archive] - Forum


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07-19-2013, 01:57 PM
Hello, first post here, although I've been a member and an avid reader for awhile.

It seems like I've read everything regarding the passlock bypass, and I can't get anywhere. My mechanic installed a new passlock system- made no difference at all. It's totally random when the car won't start- usually at the worst times though.
Anyway, what should I do? I've tried the bypass with the resistor- without the black wire cut, and with it cut; nothing works. Sometimes the security light comes on, sometimes it doesn't. I'm not interested in the yellow wire with the switch trick. I'm thinking of selling the car, and am not all that enthused about telling the buyer that, "Yeah, you have to flip this switch so engine starts."

What haven't I tried? I've read about putting in an alarm system that apparently overrides the pass lock? Does this work?

What about the BCM? Could it be needing a reprogram or replacing? I have done several mods to it (independent fogs, DRL disable, ALC disable) I have done an HID projector retrofit- could this be throwing a code?

Sorry for so many questions..!

Please help..thanks.

07-19-2013, 02:06 PM
Hello and welcome...!

Read through this procedure and see if it's the same as what you did.

07-19-2013, 02:08 PM
That's exactly what I did...other than I used solder instead of the terminal blocks.

07-19-2013, 02:15 PM
Mine did this once and all I did was keep the key in the on position for like 5-10min and it went off then it started. Thats a temp fix but mine hasnt done it in over a year since that has happened so...

Well it did do it like 3 weeks ago but my car still started lol, then I had the car off for like an hour and it went back off when I got back into the car.

07-19-2013, 02:24 PM
If you're getting a code then the SES light should be on. It sounds like something didn't go right with the fix.

07-19-2013, 02:28 PM
The fix went fine as far as I know- everything works as it should, and no SES or SVS. By "code" I wasn't meaning an actual code on the scanner. The only code the mechanic picked up was for the passenger door being open- thus the dome light on all the time. Another very annoying thing. These two things couldn't possibly be related could they...??

07-23-2013, 11:01 PM
I tried the the same resistor bypass with the yellow and black wires this time at the BCM. I didn't get a security light yet, but I don't really expect it to work any better than it did at the ignition.

Has ANYONE had failure with the resistor mod? It's been acting like I never did anything. The passlock locks up at random with or without the mod - with a new passlock sensor.

Also can anyone help me with the dome light issue? I know it is the passenger door that is the problem, but I've replaced the door lock actuator multiple times and still nothing! I even checked the circuit in the door with my DMM and it was functioning properly, open and closed. Any pointers on how to resolve these two issues??

2000 GT
07-23-2013, 11:57 PM
This was a major pain, lucky this problem was severe when it was under warranty.. the dealer i bought it from had to do a few different things before i think just about the whole passlock system was replaced. I sometimes have this issue still but i use the key in the on position trick which seems to work fine. However i think since i had to replace the BCM or PCM (it's the one that controls the AC) it never happened again. Cost me a grand but at least my AC works and i don't have to deal with the stupid security problem.

07-24-2013, 03:30 PM
A grand? I'm not willing to spend that much.. I almost have tho already with the new passlock system that didn't do any good. The part and the the install was almost $500.

I have wondered too if my BCM is faulty, but everything else works fine on the car. There hasn't been any water on it either. It seems like if the BCM was bad the car wouldn't even start or the lights wouldn't work, etc.

07-24-2013, 07:02 PM
IIRC you can get your computer programmed to ignore passlock altogether. Check with Milzy

07-24-2013, 07:13 PM
Have you checked for corrosion on the BCM plug? Could be the cause for both of your issues.

07-25-2013, 12:13 AM
I haven't checked specifically for that, but if there is corrosion it's likely going to be on the plugs and not the BCM. I lived in Canada for a while and when I imported the car- to get it safetied, they installed a Canadian BCM. (Not sure the difference between the American BCM and the Canadian..? anyone?)

But yeah, I'll check it anyways. Oh, BTW, in order to get insurance in the province I was in, I had to get an immobilizer installed. That has since been yanked out, but now I'm wondering if they cut the yellow or black wire between the ignition and the BCM.. Since I did the resistor mod last night at the BCM, the security light has not come on, nor triggered the passlock to prevent the engine from starting. But I'm still crossing my fingers...I may have spoke too soon!

I really hope I can get the dome light fixed. Whenever I get into someone else's vehicle at night and the dome light pops right on, I get really aggravated at my car and tell myself life isn't fair. lol.

2000 GT
07-25-2013, 06:51 AM
A grand? I'm not willing to spend that much.. I almost have tho already with the new passlock system that didn't do any good. The part and the the install was almost $500.

I have wondered too if my BCM is faulty, but everything else works fine on the car. There hasn't been any water on it either. It seems like if the BCM was bad the car wouldn't even start or the lights wouldn't work, etc.

Well I had it serviced by GM because I cannot deal with the humidity so at the time I just threw my money at them. Probably should worry about checking it out again since my car is pretty aged.

08-10-2013, 04:35 PM
Ok, the passlock bypass at the resistor has been working great so far, but right now I have my car torn apart trying to fix the dome light issue. I cut the light blue wire at the bcm (C2, B10) which is the passenger door switch. I had assumed previously there there was a short to ground on this circuit, causing the dome light to turn on. So cutting the wire before the assumed short should just deactivate the passenger door switch altogether, right? Didn't happen. Nor did anything happen when I touch the wire to ground- the dome light just glares back at me.
Here is a wiring diagram I got from a mechanic.

Anymore ideas from any of the wiring pros? Anyone else had this problem and fixed it??

08-16-2013, 11:18 AM
Well I am answering my own question. Hopefully this can benefit someone that has had the same hair pulling frustrations i did.

The security light has not come on one time since I soldered the resistor at the BCM. Obviously, this was a problem with just my car, since I'm 99% positive the guys that installed my immobilizer cut some wires between the BCM and the passlock/ ignition.

Dome light- it is fixed!!! Strange as it may seem, there was a short to ground somewhere in the circuit. I cut the light blue wire right after the BCM (before it went to the fuse box because that must be where the short was). Then I pulled door trim piece off where the door shuts over top of it, pulled the bundle of wires out. There is a large connector sort of at the front where I found the same light blue wire that went TO the door. I then soldered a wire from the BCM, bypassing the fuse panel, and straight to the door switch. I don't know why it went through the fuse panel anyways, as the circuit is not fused.

And since my dome light now works, I soldered up an led superflux board with amber leds (21 of them I think) and fit it in the dome light. It is an awesome color for a dome light, very easy on the eyes, yet you can see everything quite well. I used a 9 volt voltage regulator to base my circuit off of so it's the same brightness whether the car is running or off.