00 GA GT wont start, not getting fuel. [Archive] - GrandAmGT.com Forum

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eBandit
08-03-2013, 01:52 PM
*edit- after changing the fuel filter and getting the air through the system it started up. BIG question though, would a clogged filter have stressed my pump and will it maybe go soon? Also the injectors are said to read like between 11.x ohm and 12.6 ohm, all of mine are between 12.7 ohm and 13.1 ohm, is that ok?

First, at some point after the LIM change, I would have the car hard to start at times but would still start. Then sometimes it would be hard to start and show service vehicle soon light and other times it would not show that light, be hard to start a little and not stay running if I let off the gas and let the rpm drop too much.

So far the only codes I have found (still figuring out my new scanner) were B2585 and B3267 (But I do not see any regular or manufacture specific OBD II engine codes on regular scans, I did delete a code about 2 weeks ago cause I had the oil pressure code and changed the sending unit).

With running the engine and watching live data it showed a few misfires here and there on cyl. 1 & 4 (nothing I could notice really though). I tested that coil pack that is 1/4 with an OTC spark/no spark tester for HEI, DIS, COP etc. and it didn't spark under stress but did spark with a spark test light.

Then it would not start at all. I thought I smelled some fuel so I assumed it wasn't that, I changed that coil and tested the x7 crank pos. sensor. I was getting almost 600 mv AC, I also tested two of the prongs on the module that go to one of the coil packs while cranking and the test light was lighting up on and off as cranking it.

I then tried to start it with a spray of starting fluid and it started for a few seconds. Someone told me to depress the fuel relief while someone turns the key on run to prime the fuel. They said it should shoot out but it only dribbled off and on it seemed.

The fuel filter has not been changed in over 80,000 miles that I am aware of so I am about to change that, one person said check the fuel pressure; that the pump may have been getting weak?

I hope it isn't an issue with the PCM sending signals to the injectors...

What are anyone's thoughts about what I should be doing...

Thanks.

Charles

*edit. About to change the fuel filter, but I noticed with the key on, I hear a clicking sound under or around the upper intake. It does like 2 clicks then stops then it may do two more or pause a little then click again etc...

sugar ray
08-07-2013, 12:42 AM
I would run a fuel pressure test right at the rail to confirm fuel pressure. The click you are hearing upon turning on the key in that area is more the likely the pump delivering fuel. Your readings at your injectors are fine so I wouldn't be looking there. Have you tested your maf? A bad maf can cause all kinds of fun stuff including a no start issue. Seen a few guys replace pumps, filters etc.... Only to discover later a bad maf. You can unplug the maf then try starting the car. It may trigger a code and light but if you have a obd reader it's easy to reset

The fuel pressure valve should squirt fairly good and consistent once pressed and if all is working properly. You mentioned when you did this it only dribbled out? That may be your indication of no fuel being delivered to the rail. Aka: bad pump!!

sugar ray
08-07-2013, 07:58 AM
I would run a fuel pressure test right at the rail to confirm fuel pressure. The click you are hearing upon turning on the key in that area is more the likely the pump delivering fuel. Your readings at your injectors are fine so I wouldn't be looking there. Have you tested your maf? A bad maf can cause all kinds of fun stuff including a no start issue. Seen a few guys replace pumps, filters etc.... Only to discover later a bad maf. You can unplug the maf then try starting the car. It may trigger a code and light but if you have a obd reader it's easy to reset

The fuel pressure valve should squirt fairly good and consistent once pressed and if all is working properly. You mentioned when you did this it only dribbled out? That may be your indication of no fuel being delivered to the rail. Aka: bad pump!!

Lastly, you mentioned your problems started after the lim change. How recent after? Like right away? What it could be is a push rod dropped and wasn't seated properly. Causing misfire etc... Very common after a lim change and easy to fix.

eBandit
08-07-2013, 09:57 AM
The fuel filter swap got it started and its been ok a couple days now, but I guess I better check the fuel pressure cause wasn't sure if the clogged filter stressed the pump or not.

Thanks for the info. I was hoping the injectors were close enough in spec. The fuel is surely coming out better at the rail now but I haven't checked the fuel pressure yet.

eBandit
08-08-2013, 09:46 AM
Twice now, the car wouldn't start without pressing the gas pedal and would die unless held the pedal for about 30 seconds then it was ok. Ill have to dig into it more, I'm going to go buy a gauge set for testing fuel pressure and start there as well as clean the MAF.

rjs_boy
08-08-2013, 10:41 PM
try calibrating the TPS sensor...

http://www.grandamgt.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1123398&postcount=12

eBandit
08-09-2013, 05:08 PM
try calibrating the TPS sensor...

http://www.grandamgt.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1123398&postcount=12

Ok thanks ;-) I just got a fuel pressure test gauge set so Ill do both tomorrow.

eBandit
08-10-2013, 01:50 PM
I did the TPS thing you posted before I ran out yesterday and checking it today on the scan tool it is ok it reads 0% to 100%

The manual says Fuel Pressure with key on engine off should be 41 to 47 PSI, I am getting 50 PSI and after I turn they key off it very slowly bleeds down in pressure, I took the gauge off when it went below 40.

While running the live data shows

Fuel system status CL
short term fuel trim (STFT) bank 1 as -0.8% to 0% to 1.6%
long term fuel trim (LTFT) as -7.8%
intake manifold pressure 5.8
ignition timing advance for #1 is 22.5 degrees.

Have much more data need to download from scanner to pc.

Under powetrain data the short term fuel trim was (at idle to some throttle) was:

bank 1 sensor 1 -.8% up to 2.8% then up to 10.2 at partial throttle.

bank 1 sensor 2 stayed at 99.2% the entire time i watched it (does this mean something).

Hope someone can help, ill post more data from the tool if needed cause i saved some while running it.

Only codes are the 2 previously mentioned Body codes but it wasn't too long ago when I reset the engine codes after changing the oil pressure unit, not sure if it has went through drive cycles to reset or not by now?


Any ideas? Thanks.

rjs_boy
08-10-2013, 05:26 PM
Manifold pressure of 5.8?

I typically see vacuum from the manifold pressure sensor.

Usually -16 to -18 at idle

eBandit
08-11-2013, 01:04 PM
Manifold pressure of 5.8?

I typically see vacuum from the manifold pressure sensor.

Usually -16 to -18 at idle

hmm didnt think about that, but I just went through the saved live data and seen 5.7 and 5.8.

That is weird. I was thinking of getting a vacuum gauge to check it better. Wonder if the scan tool is meaning negative, but wouldn't think so cause it reads (-) on other stuff.

Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure 5.7 psi


Maybe I need to look for vacuum leaks real good too.

eBandit
08-20-2013, 03:56 PM
Its starting better on its own now, hmmm.