Broken S/C collar bolt [Archive] - GrandAmGT.com Forum

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PhantomLover007
08-28-2013, 07:23 PM
My tensioner started making noise the other day and then this morning I started hearing an annoying squeal. So I thought it was just the tensioner going bad and the belt squealing like it had done before.

NOPE!! Not the only problem... ;crap

The bolt securing the S/C collar to the engine block snapped and the S/C pulley was rubbing against what I guess id the high side of the AC..

Not freaking good.

Would it be wise to find a bolt w/ enough threads to secure the S/C and then get the broken piece out? This is my only driver right now...

AaronGTR
08-28-2013, 08:21 PM
Holy crap dude. That's not even supposed to be a bolt. It's supposed to be a stud with a nut on it. That's really weird for that to break, as it's not supposed to be torqued that much and shouldn't have that much pressure on it from anything. Only supposed to be like 45 ft/lbs iirc.

Anyway, yeah... I wouldn't drive it if possible until you get that fixed. You don't want to damage that A/C line or the pulley or belt.

Still wondering how that could have broke... I forget, do you have headers? And if so does the header flange stick up past the edge of the head at all? I had this problem with mine with the TOG headers. The flange was just a tiny bit taller than the side of the cylinder head, and the bracket for the S/C sticks a little past the edge of the head, so my bracket was hitting the header flange and not sitting flat on the top of the head. That would put lateral stress on the bolt and could cause it to break. I had to take a metal file and file out some clearance so it would sit flat. Just a little notch on the outside corner. Take a look at yours and see if it's doing that.

PhantomLover007
08-28-2013, 08:36 PM
Naw man. Hadn't changed the headers yet. That was going to be this wknd. I'm going to have to find someone to extract the bolt.

No auto part store has anything in the length that I needed and Lowes only had stainless steel and I'm not sure how strong that would be. I think I need a grade 5 or 8.

Gonna try Fastenal tomorrow.

I'm quite sure it was torqued down too much. W/ the screw up the guy that installed the S/C and the injectors I wouldn't doubt it. You saw the mess 1st hand man. I should have came straight to you.

PhantomLover007
08-28-2013, 08:58 PM
OK. I see a pic in the install manual. Yeah. Pic #21.

It's supposed to be 10mm stud and a nut. IDK how this got changed... ;crap

PhantomLover007
08-28-2013, 09:20 PM
Remaining piece of the broken bolt is sitting at the top of the hole on the engine block.

Looks like I'm gonna have to pull the whole S/C anyways.. ;crap ;crap ;crap

AleroB888
08-28-2013, 10:36 PM
OK. I see a pic in the install manual. Yeah. Pic #21.

It's supposed to be 10mm stud and a nut. IDK how this got changed... ;crap

Yeah, on mine with the stock exhaust manifold the driveshaft mount bottom part overlaps the manifold flange a bit.

Now for some reason when I last did the install, I could not use a mounting stud per the instructions, it would not allow the other mount bolts to be lined up. I had a stainless stud in place (w/o nut), tried to fasten the other mount, but no-go.

So I let the driveshaft mount sit loose on the hole with a smaller diameter screwdriver in there to hold it in place, put the other mount on, then a 10mm bolt where the stud should have been. Just an fyi, you may hit some snags :)

edit: used a 10.9 rated bolt

http://k-tbolt.com/bolt_chart.html

Starglow
08-28-2013, 10:53 PM
Remaining piece of the broken bolt is sitting at the top of the hole on the engine block.

Looks like I'm gonna have to pull the whole S/C anyways.. ;crap ;crap ;crap

Are you sure you can't drill down the center of the bolt and then use an easy out? Use left handed drill bits if you can as sometimes they will grab on and back out the broken piece. I've gotten pretty good at extracting busted bolts and the key is to drill very slow and be patient.

Good luck....!

sleepyalero
08-28-2013, 11:07 PM
Yeah if the bit can grab the bolt, you can get extractor bits where its a thead you screw in the center of the bolt, it grabs it and you cant crank it out. Ive got a set at home i forget the name ive used a few times. But its kinda like this.

http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad58/natesalero/87FA5EAA-5D29-4471-9484-DD96CC396BE9-2138-000000E8158B1CE1_zps1b76c26c.jpg

PhantomLover007
08-30-2013, 08:04 AM
Anyone know the length of the stud I need to get?

gregraisbeck
08-30-2013, 09:59 AM
My kit is still not installed, send me a pic of the bolt location and ill get you the specs off my corresponding bolt/stud.

PhantomLover007
08-30-2013, 10:12 AM
It's the stud and nut that is supposed to secure the drive shaft of the supercharger to the engine block. To the right of the pulley in the pic.

gregraisbeck
08-30-2013, 10:38 AM
I saw the pic. Ill b home bout 7 and ill check it out for you.

gregraisbeck
08-30-2013, 07:18 PM
31448

gregraisbeck
08-30-2013, 07:24 PM
Try this link, my bag of goodies says it is a m10x75. This bolt is a 12.9 extreme strength.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/M10-1-50-x-75mm-Qty-5-DIN-912-SOCKET-HEAD-Cap-Screws-Black-Alloy-CL-12-9-/121162098151?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c35d2e5e7

PhantomLover007
08-31-2013, 01:56 AM
31448

Thanks Greg. I guess that'll work just as well as a stud and nut