View Full Version : 2000 GAGT 3.4L bad motor mount
10-19-2013, 07:10 AM
Hello everyone, I'm back and this time with a bad motor mount :(
Last time I was on here I was saying I had a pull to the right and shaking at higher speeds. Since then I have swapped wheels and tires with no big change. After noticing the pull to the right comes after heavy acceleration, followed by the shaking in 4th gear, I suspected a motor mount was possibly at fault.
Yesterday I went to Autozone and one of the guys there came out and helped me perform the brake-tourqe test and confirmed a bad mount is present. When brake-tourqing the motor rocks backwards toward the firewall. The mount I suspect is bad is the one down by the lower right side of the radiator. This would technically be the LEFT mount, correct?
Autozone only has one mount listed on their website and it states it's the passenger side, I'm assuming the one by the serpentine belt. If I am correct that it's the LEFT mount that I need, where do I get it from, and further, how do I replace it? I have done some googling but can't turn up anything regarding replacement of this particular mount.
Any help is appreciated! Thanks for the replies!
10-19-2013, 08:51 AM
Support the engine with a jack and block of wood under the oil pan, make sure you have a wide enough block so you don't damage the oil pan, and the mount just unbolts and a new one bolts right back in.
10-19-2013, 08:54 AM
10-19-2013, 09:21 AM
I wouldn't put a motor mount in it because someone at auto zone said that was the problem. The engine should have some movement that just means the mounts are doing their job.
10-19-2013, 10:04 AM
Thanks for the replies!
@greddy is that mount you linked me to the one by the radiator? It says front but technically front is by the serpentine belt..
@nick I completely agree with you. It had been my own personal suspicion that it was a bad mount. The guy only helped me prove that. He even got in and did the brake-tourqing while I watched. The movement is definately not the normal amount. Its very much like this video http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Obo02U7fFyk&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DObo02U7fFyk
Is there a specific type of mount I should shoot for to reduce vibration, or are the solid ones good enough?
10-19-2013, 10:10 AM
It technically is the front mount. The motor is in sideways. Serpentine belt area is the front of the motor.
Get a solid mount from milzy. Its about 40 $ more then a stock one from autozone but the motor will not move an inch.
10-19-2013, 10:13 AM
So is the mount greddy linked me to the correct one? I'm certain the bad mount is by the lower right hand side of the radiator.
Also, which is recommended for supporting the motor, a 2x4 or a 4x4?
10-19-2013, 11:12 AM
No the mount your looking for is actually a transmission mount.
10-19-2013, 12:27 PM
That movement doesn't actually look all that abnormal to me. These cars came with pretty soft mounts and moved around a lot even when they were new. It could have a bad mount but it's hard to tell without seeing it close up. Sometimes you can't tell without actually removing it or getting under the car and getting a good look at it. Regardless, they should have come with stiffer mounts from the factory in my opinion, so it wouldn't hurt to replace one with a better mount.
The three main ones are actually transmission mounts. One each on the front and back that are what actually controls engine torque, and it could be either one of those so you need to check them both. Then there is a side trans mount and one on the front of the engine, and those mostly keep it from rocking side to side.
If you are only noticing the pull when accelerating hard, well that is probably just torque steer. Excessive engine/trans movement will take the axles out of line and can magnify that slightly, as can soft/worn suspension bushings which let the control arms twist, and other worn suspension parts. You can replace or upgrade everything though, and you are never going to completely get rid of it. If it's a FWD car with an open diff, it's going to have some torque steer, even if it has equal length axles. Ford and GM have both developed new strut suspension designs that help eliminate some of the torque steer, but even that doesn't get rid of it completely, and it's more expensive and only used on certain cars right now. http://www.caranddriver.com/features/ford-revoknuckle-and-gm-hiper-strut-explained-tech-dept Obviously you are stuck with the design you have on the GA.
Anyway, what I would do is inspect all the engine mounts up close, see if any of them are actually bad, replace any that are, and maybe replace the front trans mount regardless with a stiffer aftermarket mount. That will help some. Keep in mind you'll also feel more vibrations inside the car when you do that.
10-19-2013, 07:10 PM
Oh, that video isn't mine, I just posted that for reference.
The pull isn't just during acceleration, once it starts it keeps pulling until you come to a complete stop. If you take off slower and smoother the next time it won't pull. There is pretty much always a vibration/shaking feeling through the higher speeds though. I forgot to mention I replaced the passenger side control arm a few months ago. New brakes all the way around as well.
I also have a 99 Grand Am GT, never had anything like this on it and have had it over three years.
10-19-2013, 07:18 PM
My car didn't that when the rear control arm bushings were shot. If you replaced one side already, then you might want to check the other.
And yes, I knew that wasn't your video. ;) Since you posted it for reference though, I was telling you it didn't really look at much worse than normal engine movement in these cars.
10-20-2013, 06:23 AM
Are you saying the rear control arm bushings as in back wheels, or the rear set of bushings in the front control arms?
Edit: to be honest when I read what you said about the arms I thought how in the world could that cause all of these problems. After researching it I see almost all of my symptoms are those of a bad or broken lateral arm.. The pull to the right, my steering wheel offset to the left, the unsturdy feeling while cruising over bumps.. I wonder if that is why my rear tires went bad last month. One went flat and I took the car to Discount Tire and they showed me the interior sidewall of both rear tires was flaking apart or basically deteriorating.
Are those arms difficult to replace? Do you have to do anything special to support the spindle or car during replacement?
I crawled under and took a few pics for you, let me know if something looks wrong to you:
Is that gap between the bolts and the bushing normal?
Are these bent or are they supposed to be shaped like that?
Let me know what you think
10-20-2013, 10:38 AM
the rear does not have control arms. They are called lateral links in the back. I was talking about the rear bushings on the front control arms. Those are the ones that control front to back movement on the control arms. when those bushings go bad it can allow the control arms to shift when you steer or go over bumps or accelerate.
there could be something wrong with the rear as well. That space behind the bolt at the end of the lateral link does not look right. The head of the bolt should be right up against the rubber bushing. Might want to try tightening that up.
10-20-2013, 11:15 AM
I didn't think that looked right... I was also thinking about trying to tighten them up, any idea what side that is? The only large wrenches I have ATM are 18mm and 22mm
Edit: I tried but they wouldn't budge.. Under closer inspection I found the heads of the bolts are against the steel part of the bushing. Everything else looks fine to me, unless the trailing arms aren't supposed to have that bend in them.
The front control arm bushings look fine as well. Idk what else to look at now other than go back up front to the trans mounts
11-02-2013, 06:49 AM
Well so far I still haven't tracked down the cause of the pull. Something I haven't mentioned is that in the mornings on my way to work (when it is cooler outside) the car will drive straight. However, any other time of the day it pulls to the right. And by pull I mean if let go of the wheel it will go almost immediately off of the road. My hand and wrist actually get tired and sore after extended trips somewhere.
Im thinking maybe the passenger side brake hose is internally bad, not allowing the pressure to relieve. I don't have any excessive pulling when braking either, it will just not pull as hard when coming to a stop. Also, when I come up to a stop light if I move the steering wheel back and forth slightly, I feel more resistance trying to turn it to the left than the right, almost like something is still trying to pull the car. Anyone else have an idea or comment on this?
Edit: a couple of things I just remembered that may be worth noting.. After a little over an hour of driving in the city in moderate rush hour traffic (think semi-aggressive stop and go!), upon braking my front passenger side brake began making a grinding sound you could feel through the floor. This continued every time I stopped for the rest of that day, but since then it hasn't happened again. The other thing, before I bought this car the power steering pump had been replaced with one from a junk yard, but why it was replaced I don't know. I hope some of these details help!
11-02-2013, 11:41 AM
Re-check the bolts that secure the front of the control arm, size 18mm wrench. It that is even a little loose, it will cause it to move back and forth, causing torque steer. Personal expericence here, my passenger side was just snug, hard to move, no not really noticable, though the pulling was getting worse.
I tightened it down ALOT more, and now no pulling what so ever.....and I was almost convinced it was my rack. Glad I rechecked things out.
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