Another issue.....help! [Archive] - GrandAmGT.com Forum

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blondiez24gt
12-10-2013, 07:49 PM
Gosh I am getting so frustrated.....so many things keep happening right at Christmas time.....;crap Anyways, I just fixed the car, and got it running great. I've been driving it the last couple days. Well today I was driving and the heat would kick in and out. The power steering was also going in and out. I could smell a belt burning, and my temp gauge started to rise.

I stopped the car, and let it cool down. I got it home, and had my husband look under the hood while I started the car. The belt seemed to be spinning fine, but after 20 or 30 seconds the A/C pulley started smoking......Smoke was literally coming off of the A/C pulley. It seemed that the pulley on the a/c was still turning. I'm not sure if the bearings are burning up, or what.

I'm guessing when the power steering, and heat would stop working the a/c pulley must have been freezing up. Anybody know if there is a fix for this? Or is a new a/c compressor the only answer. Thanks for any help..

sleepyalero
12-10-2013, 08:16 PM
Can't replace the pulley to it only I believe. You would have to either get rid of ac or run a bypass if you dont csre for ac.

I removed all my ac component's because I dont use it. Lol id take the belt off and spin all pulleys. They should spin witb your hand quite freely.

Shade2012
12-10-2013, 08:17 PM
Can't replace the pulley to it only I believe. You would have to either get rid of ac or run a bypass if you dont csre for ac.

I removed all my ac component's because I dont use it. Lol id take the belt off and spin all pulleys. They should spin witb your hand quite freely.

You don't use your ac because your car never moves. :hay:

plastic_indian
12-10-2013, 08:29 PM
Run the engine with all the HVAC functions 'off,' then run the engine with defrost or AC 'on.' If the problem presents only when the compressor cycles on, the compressor is locked up. Disconnecting the electrical lead to the clutch may circumvent the problem. If the problem presents under both conditions the bearing in the clutch pulley is faulty (although the compressor may still be failed internally). To help confirm, remove the belt and attempt to rotate the pulley by hand (engine 'off,' obviously) - any noise, seizure or roughness indicates a faulty bearing.

Replacement of the the clutch kit alone is possible using service parts such as NAPA 261226 (TEM line code), although replacement of the clutches on GM compressors can be challenging without the proper service tools - damage to the snout of the compressor casting may result. Also note the casting can be damaged by the excessive heat generated by the clutch failure (or, in extreme examples, the whole mess trying to spin on the face of the compressor).

A proper repair probably dictates replacement of the compressor assembly as a unit, such as with Delphi service part CS0051 or CS20029 (V6 or Ecotec, respectively). Note that most compressor manufacturers will not honor a warranty claim unless the dryer and expansion tube are replaced at the same time and the system is flushed.

Starglow
12-10-2013, 08:43 PM
I'm guessing when the power steering, and heat would stop working the a/c pulley must have been freezing up. Anybody know if there is a fix for this? Or is a new a/c compressor the only answer. Thanks for any help..

It sounds like the AC compressor is locking up. You can either replace the compressor pulley or complete compressor as a whole or install an AC delete kit in place of the compressor.

http://www.grandamgt.com/forum/showthread.php?t=64639&page=5

I replaced the compressor on my GA with a GPD kit from Rockauto that included the compressor, accumulator, and orifice tube for about $250 but you'll need a set of HVAC gauges and a vacuum pump to DIY.

blondiez24gt
12-10-2013, 09:10 PM
plastic_indian, I had the a/c off, and none of the defrost or anything running....I am guessing the bearings in the pulley itself must be going bad.

Starglow, can I do the a/c bypass with the ribbed idler pulley and shorter belt, and leave the a/c compressor on there for now? I didn't know if it would be in the way of the belt, or not...? I plan on getting the a/c fixed so I want to leave everything there. I just can't afford a new compressor, and all the work to get it installed, and charged right now...

Starglow
12-10-2013, 09:50 PM
Starglow, can I do the a/c bypass with the ribbed idler pulley and shorter belt, and leave the a/c compressor on there for now? I didn't know if it would be in the way of the belt, or not...? I plan on getting the a/c fixed so I want to leave everything there. I just can't afford a new compressor, and all the work to get it installed, and charged right now...

No...the compressor must be removed because the pulley kit bracket mounts using the same three mounting holes used by the compressor. The compressor itself is easy to replace but you have to go through the passenger side fender well which means the tire and inner plastic fender liner must be removed..but that's not too hard.

You could always just replace the compressor now and charge the system later before the summer heat hits but I would not replace the accumulator until right before the system is vacuumed and then charged because it will just absorb moisture from inside the uncharged system and be ruined.

The general advice on the compressors on these cars is to install new units and not used or reman units due to the cost of vacuuming and charging the system again if there's a problem. But for now you could just throw on a used one for around $35 which wouldn't matter if you aren't going to recharge the system now anyway..so that would at least get you up and running again until you can afford to repair the AC system later.

blondiez24gt
12-10-2013, 10:03 PM
I'm not talking about the bypass kit that mounts where the compressor is....I'm talking about the shorter belt, and replacing the smooth idler pulley with the ribbed idler pulley. Its the first page on the link you posted......right here....http://www.grandamgt.com/forum/showthread.php?t=64639

From looking at it. It looks like I could do that, and leave the copressor on there until I get it fixed. I'd just use a different idler pulley, and the shorter belt would be routed differently....Does it look like it would clear the compressor to you?

Starglow
12-11-2013, 04:39 AM
From looking at it. It looks like I could do that, and leave the compressor on there until I get it fixed. I'd just use a different idler pulley, and the shorter belt would be routed differently....Does it look like it would clear the compressor to you?

Based on the pictures that were posted it looks like there might be enough clearance but no guarantees since the OP had removed his compressor. You can always just give it a try and see how it goes.

blondiez24gt
12-11-2013, 05:18 AM
I went out last night, because it was bugging me......I shined a light in there trying to see if it looked like there would be enough room. Looks like there would be....Anyways I was trying to loosen the belt tensioner, and take the belt off. I noticed the tensioners case is broken...It looked to me like the a/c pulley was spinning freely. Now is it possible the tensioner is not putting enough tension on the belt, because of the broken case? Thus just letting the belt spin around on some of the pulleys, causing the smoke I seen? How tight should the belt be?

AaronGTR
12-11-2013, 07:23 AM
If the belt is not tight enough, that could definitely cause some slipping issues and problems with the power steering. I had an issue like that once... belt was loose and when I'd turn the steering wheel and there was more load on the pulley for the power steering pump the belt would slip on the pulley. I'd hear a terrible squealing noise and the steering would get heavy and jerky.

In my case it was an incorrect belt length for the supercharger pulley I was using letting the tensioner bottom out against it's stop and lose tension, and a new shorter belt fixed it. In your case it might be a combination of a broken tensioner case and/or weak spring. The stock tensioner is known to break and rattle. Get a dayco brand tensioner from advance auto parts. It has a stronger case design and spring meant to address this issue.

Hopefully that solves it, although I don't know why a slipping belt would make your heat go in and out. Are you talking about the temperature, or the interior fans blowing the air? If the belt was slipping on all the pulleys including the alternator and water pump, then you might have seen a drop in electrical current and a slight rise in coolant temp also. And you'd probably smell some burning rubber and find some black rubber dust around stuff on the front of the engine. Anyway, trying taking belt off that tensioner off and see if the case is cracked and if it has any slop or play in it. They should be tight without any loose back and forth movement. It's pretty easy to get off (one bolt) to inspect it. Replace it if needed and see if that fixes the issue.

blondiez24gt
12-11-2013, 08:12 AM
Yea, thats what I meant. I had the heat on, and it would get cold for a second then go back to hot. I'm guessing maybe the water pump wasn't spinning? Would that cause that? I could see smoke coming from down below around the a/c pulley. I thought the pulley was locking up, but upon further investigation I think the belt was just slipping a little bit. It doesn't do it all the time.....Thats what makes it tough to figure out. When I am trying to look at it and figure it out....it works fine. Then when driving you can hear a little bit of squeal, and the power steering will go out for a second, and the heat also. Then you can smell the belt burning...II know for a fact the tensioner has a crack, and little piece missing out of the case. Right by where the little tab is that mounts in the hole on the alternator bracket. The belt seems to be good and tight though.....Wondering if the tensioner could loosen up every now and then? Is that possible?

Starglow
12-11-2013, 11:02 AM
The tensioner is spring loaded inside the case and if it's cracked then it's time for a new tensioner which may resolve all of your problems. Check the condition of the belt as well to make sure it has not been damaged through all of this and replace if necessary.

AaronGTR
12-11-2013, 11:48 AM
Yeah, replace that tensioner with the one I told you about, and check the belt condition like Starglow said. If it's not majorly worn, and isn't that old, it might be ok. If it's got a lot of miles on it, might as well replace it anyway. Cheap part and good insurance.

The reason it seems fine when you are looking at it but acts up while you are driving is because when it's sitting at idle there isn't much load on it. When you are driving the power steering pump places resistance on the belt, plus your rpms are going higher.