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Warranty / TSB / Recall forums
These sections are for:
Posting / asking about TSB's Asking about Warranty Information (good warranty information located at SEMA's web site. Asking how to approach a dealer for service / repairs. Anything else along these lines that does not fit in to the General / Technical Q&A forums. These sections are not for: Complaining about your warped rotors. Complaining about service at a dealer, this should be left for regional forums.... this also includes Pointless Rants. |
is there a TSB for hard starts something to do with the fuel pump....i have a 2002 grand am gt ram air automatic transmission....does start all the time when you turn the key....TIA
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I am having the dredded po113 with hard shifting and ses. is that a recall or do i just replace the iat and connector myself?
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mine has that problem too not starting good.....i only have 26,000km on my car abd the motor was rebuilt at 14,700km knocking nosie.......piston slap........GRANDAM 3.4L BEWARE..........
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Turn Signal and Starting Car Problems
I have two problems with my car and was wondering if anyone could help.
First, sometimes the clicking noise from my turn signal happens after my turn signal is off and also clicks a few times when I am just driving. What can I do for this and is it covered under warrenty. Next, sometimes it is hard for me to start my car. I turn the key and have to hold it on the start position for a while to get it to start up. Sometimes it seems like it is taking for ever to start so I turn it to off and then start it again. What can I do for these problems and are they covered under my warrnety? |
The Turn Signal Switch Sounds Like It Could Possibly Be The Hazard Switch. 00-01 Ga's Had A Recall On Them But That Didn't Include The 03.
Basically The Hazard Switch Has The Flasher Built Into It. That's Not A Definite Answer Though Just Someplace To Look. The Starting Problem Could Be The Fuel Pump Not Priming. Is The Starter Turning When You Hit The Switch Or Is The Problem The Starter? |
About the Hard Starts
I am not much of a gear head but, I know that when ever I have difficulty starting my 01 GAGT it is about time for an oil change. just something I have noticed over the years. Not saying that that is your problem, just something I have noticed. Tell you the truth after I get my oil changed the problem goes away!
Zyth.....:flag: |
[quote=Luckyboy33]I have two problems with my car and was wondering if anyone could help.
First, sometimes the clicking noise from my turn signal happens after my turn signal is off and also clicks a few times when I am just driving. What can I do for this and is it covered under warrenty. I had the clicking problem and it is dirt getting on the contacts in the signal switching hub. They is some great instructions & pics if you want to search. The dealer wanted $235 to replace the part. If you have warrenty your good. |
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The hard start will eventually turn into no start and finally the car stopping in the middle of the road. The problem is the fuel pump and everything attached to it (FYI this will also fix your sticky fuel guage if you have that problem yet) The fuel module will run you about $450 Canadian, get the aftermarket Japanese made parts from PartSource, Pep Boys or Canadian Tire, NEVER buy genuine GM parts, they are garbage right out of the box. Removing the gas tank can be done by one guy with a socket set, floor jack and two jack stands in about one hour so if you are handy at all don't listen to the mechanics, they lie like cheap rugs. Cheers, hope this helps Doc |
I have a problem with a ''rubbing'' or ''scraping noise'' when I drive, it seems to be in or around the wheels, when I brake it scrapes, and just driving, especially when driving slow you can really hear it, and it gets real bad when I am turning sometimes... Is this a warped rotor problem? I've taken it to the dealer about 3-4 times for the same problem and it's never fixed...They even said they replaced all the rotors, etc, last time, but it's still bad...
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BY THE WAY GUYS MY NAME IS MATT AND IF U WANT AND INFO ON ANY GM LIKE BULLITENS OR RECALLS IF THE EXIST I CAN GET THEM WITH IN MIN'S.... |
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[COLOR="black"]I have the same car here and same problem,I think I have isolated it to the tires as when I increase the Tire pressure to 40/42 PSI, the noise basically goes away. I have 83,00km on tires and will find out for sure when I put a NEW set on. I have read many forums on this matter and a lot have said the noise left with a NEW set of Tires [/color] |
Yeah i'm still having the same problem... terrible scraping from around the front wheels.
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any one no about dash peel tsb's recalls
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3.4 lower intake
Was doing another 3.4 lower intake and noticed a redesign in the gasket. it is aluminum instead of plastic. maybe it will hold up longer. keep your eyes out.
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The tire pressure on the grand am's are supposed to be set at 30 psi f/r. Not 40.
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I got rid of 00 GAGT and got an 02 GAGT because of the noise I heard from brake area at parking lot speeds. I my case it was just tires. They need rotated about every 4 or 5000 miles to avoid noise.
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I had a similar problem. it was right after I replaced the front axle. Turned out it was what local mechanics call a "white box" part. an inferior axle with a cheap, soft metal mounting nut. The nut was grinding down on the bearing! only 2 days later i had it fixed. had to replace the bearing. an extra $80! Jack up your car and try to wiggle the wheel, if it moves side to side easily then 99% this is your issue. you'll probably have to replace the axle and the bearing. parts should cost $150-$200 |
Turn switch clicking issue
I ran into this a few years ago, I have an 02 GAGT RAMAir.
The warranty replacement is only covered to the 01 model year but the problem is the same for all N body cars with that same hazard button above the radio from 2000 onwards. The turn signal flasher is integrated with the hazard switch, it contains an electronic circuit board and a multi contact relay driven by those electronics. If and ONLY if you are experienced with a soldering iron and fine component level electronics work you DO NOT have to cough up $200 to $300 for a replacement hazard switch. The fix is as follows: Remove the plastic bezel covering the radio that the hazard switch and traction control buttons are mounted to. Remove the hazard button module entirely and move yourself to a well lighted work bench. You will need a fine point soldering iron, some solder wick and some good old fashioned 60% tin - 40% lead solder, the currently used RoHS compliant tin - solver solder is the cause of the problem, the solder joints connecting the timing capacitor to the board have degraded and the cracked, this is called a "cold" solder joint. Remove the hazard button from the module. Use a small screwdriver and pliers to pull the centre part of the module with the circuit board. Examine the circuit board, you will see a hole in the middle that has a capacitor mounted near it. Use the soldering iron and the solder wick VERY carefully to remove the solder from one of the two pins on the capacitor, then use the lead solder to resolder the connection, after the first connection is repaired, repeat the process for the second one. Examine the board with a magnifying glass looking for any other cold solder joints on any other components and repair as necessary. Examine ALL of your work very closely an ensure that you have not shorted any connections, if you have, repeat the solder removal process and repair again. Reassemble the hazard switch and plug it back in to the car to test it before reinstalling it in the bezel and putting everything back together. If everything works put the car back together and Bob's yer uncle. There is also an extremely well documented post on cleaning the contacts in your turn signal switch that resolves many signal light problems on this website at this link, if you can pull off this hazard switch repair then the turn signal repair is easy as no soldering is required. One caveat, DO NOT USE GM's recommended dielectric gel to coat the contacts, that material is the cause of the problem and likely part of a programmed obsolescence program, it turns black and becomes conductive, creating a capacitance that generates the fast clicking issue. Use simple Vaseline petroleum jelly, it lasts for years and you will never have a problem again. I know this because I have tested it. These ARE tested and proven solutions Best of luck Doc Quote:
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