yah well those tools are for fuel line disconnect, not for any type of steel fitting removal, they go in for quick disconnect fittings, but GM doesnt use them on the GA fuel lines, they take different kinds of clips that will open and allow you to remove certain parts.

I have the haynes manual. The only thing I saw was how to remove the FPR. What page talks about the actual lines themselves?

the tap and die wouldnt hurt the threads at all, but you should look real well in the fuel rail and the threads on the nut to make sure that they are not binding, and also being as that line basically floats in the bore, it may be an alignment issue

I cant even tell. The threading in the rail itself looks fine but I'm only 90% positive. The bolt thread you can clearly see the thread is like smushed so its stopping it from continuing to the next line.

Okay the tap and dye thing...What size would fit over the end of the fuel line and thread onto the bolt to fix it? and what do i get to fix the fuel rail thread.

Pg 4-3 and 4-4

LIM FInished
 

Hey i just finished the LIM and started her up. After putting my belt back on it squeeks like crazy and i have not power steering. I can feel that it is loose on the pulleys. My friend use a tenioner tool to pull on it while i was in the car (yah i know not smart) but it did give me tension and thus power steering. So the question is, is the tensioner pulley broken, is the pulley not seated correctly? (we accidentally messed with the bolt) or do i just need a new belt or some combination?
The cars is at 65,000 and i am still on the orignal belt so i guess i will be replacing it but i need to know while its off if i should replace the tensioner.

I also noticed when I reinstalled the tensioner pulley, it rubs against the bolt thats directly to the right of it. I don't understand why because everything is threaded correctly. Im just waiting for when I start the car up after this is done and find a ****load of problems.

you prob didnt get the tensioner pin ligned up in the right hole, double check that and the torque on the bolts and routing

Nah i know what your talking about. the tiny hole that the circular bulge on the back of the pulley goes into...i think its the bracket is like the slightest bit off....i dunno

Wushdish i had the same issue with my fuel feed line. For some reason the feed doesnt line back up perfectly with the fuel rail, Loosen the bolt further away from the feed that holds the rail down. Have a buddy get a flathead between the rail and the lower intake. Pry the passenger side of the rail up so you can get a better angle on the bolt going into the feed side of the rail. Your threads are probably not screwed up, you are just cross threading since for some reason it doesnt want to line up. This is what worked for me on several occasions when taking the rail on and off to deal with other b.s. Oh and make sure that no chunks of that o ring you said you lost are in the rail. That one gave me major headaches.

Yea I took that bolt off your talking about. Im gonna try to get a better angle...but it seems hopeless. The thread on the bolt halfway is like smushed on two lines so its like not letting it go past that part....i dunno its wierd i wish i had a camera


Also, is the tensioner pulley bolt supposed to be screwed in tight? or is the tensioner supposed to be loose so it can jiggle


eh...and question.

If i purchase a new power steering pump that has no pulley how do I get the pulley off my old broken one and put it on the new one? do you need a special tool?

and does the 3.4L 99 gt have variable steering?

Same question
 

Yah i need to know about the tensioner pulley also. How tight should that bolt be? Also I keep geting conflicting information. Can i put a jack with wood and cardborad under my oil pan?

Its in the previous post with torques specs (Drive Belt Tensioner Bolt 37 ft. lbs.)
You can put a jack under the oil pan with wood in between, in fact you'll find that info stamped right on the pan.

Whoops guess i should have just gotten under there. Alright, about to begin step #117 in the LIM gasket change - replacing the serpentine belt.

replacing the belt is really easy. Your squeeking is probably from fluids either oil/coolant/power steering fluid getting on the belt and contaminating it.

Get a gatorback belt its only $25 itll never squeak again.


I have to get a new power steering pump, then remove the engine mount again to fix the tensioner pulley and replace the power steering. then, hopefully tap and die the bolt on the fuel feed line that goes into the fuel rail. if that doesnt work, i then need either a new fuel rail or new fuel feed line which i DONT even know how to replace.


and all this before even knowing if the LIM gasket job is successful.


Now again, does the 99gt have variable effort steering????

well, i lifted the fuel rail up and got the bolt to thread in fine. just one question, its not supposed to thread ALL the way in correct? there should sttill be like 2 threads left. i dont want to overtighten it so im making sure.


plus, are the o rings that go on the fuel injectors the same size as the ones that go on the end of the fuel feed lines?

one injector has a misshapen oring and is missing the clip, and im missing the orings that go on the two fuel feed lines.

So today I admitted defeat. I finished the LIM and started it to find my belt was loose. No other errors just that. Replaced belt and found that it was rubbing against the tensioner pulley. Drove it for a bit and then temp gauge started swinging from 100 to 200 and got a real high idle. Had to ride the break the whole time. I was right by a repair shop so I brought it in... oh well. So the visible symptoms are belt rubbing against tensioner, temp gauage swinging, high idle. Any clue??? My thought is that the tensioner got messed up during the job. I think one of my friends messed with the bolt, which is causing the rubbing and then i think i have not properly burped the coolant system and thats giving the crazy temps and high idle.

wushdish im not sure if the 99 is variable effort. My 01 is. In order to get the pulley off the old pump and onto the new one you will need a set of pullers. Most parts stores like advance should have them available to rent. Just go in and tell them what you are trying to do, they should be able to help you. Ill go check mine right now for the threads on the fuel line for you.

Just looked at it, i cant see it too well but i think that there is a thread or two sticking out. Your best bet would to reinstall the battery with the uim off and charge the fuel system and check it for visible leaks. Good luck.

The injector o rings are different sizes than the ones on the fuel lines. make sure you have the correct ones or you will have leaks. You absolutely need the o rings for the fuel feed lines. And while you are in there you might as well replace the damaged injector o rings and replace the missing clip. Here is the thread with the part # for the fuel feed. http://www.grandamgt.com/forum/showthread.php?t=66218. I couldnt find them at parts stores, the dealership was the only place i could get one.

So...unbolt the tensioner pulley and inspect the bolt...then inspect the bolt that holds the bracket for the pulleys on thats RIGHT next to where the tensioner pulley goes.


Burp the system by unscrewed the bleeder screw, run the car until coolant starts spilling out then screw it back in and your done. You can also squeeze the rad hose to make the air bubbles come out faster.

Im almost positive 99 is variable effort which means more expensive ;crap

Are the o-rings for the top and bottom of the injectors the same size or are they different sizes? I need the ones on the end that pushes into the LIM. Also I need one clip that holds the injector to the rail. Does anyone have any extra orings or clips?

I also need the oring that goes on the end of the fuel line. I pressurized the system and it leaked from the fuel line with no oring, and the injector without the clip with a distorted oring.



I have a idea and im wondering if this will work. If I put a peice of piping that would fit in the hole where the spout on the P/S pump was and then slide the old spout over that then connected the rubber hose and clamped it would this work?

http://wushdishmeen.tnt.gs/powersteering.JPG

Have you taken your tensioner pulley off? If so how difficult is it? I didn't mess with any of the bolts that hold the pulley brakets onto the engine so i figure those should be alright.

I took the tensioner pulley and that entire bracket off to get to the lower rear valve bolt thats hard to get to..

The tensioner comes off by just unbolting the one bolt on it.


Eh do you have any extra o-rings for the fuel injectors or fuel rail....

The o-rings are real cheap and easy from Autozone. Make sure that you lube them up using oil before inserting them.

Well dang, I guess I gave up too soon... the high reving really scared me though... I'll post an update tomorrow and tell ya'll what happened. If it was a mistake with the LIM then I can at least warn others.

Noises in my car scare me too. But i'm the type to rather go in and try to find the problem by reading on here or looking myself then fixing it. If i break something along the way, whatever, live and learn.

I've never taken my car to a shop once with exception of getting new tires and i had a front bumper painted but that doesn't count as the car.

The mechanic's profession is not just to fix your car, it's to get as much money out of you that they can...otherwise they wouldn't be in buisiness.

The pricing is to satisfy them being the ones getting their hands dirty.

They have them in a package or you have to ask at a parts counter?

The o-ring for the fuel rails and injectors are different sizes. I can bring one of the injector o-rings to show or find what I need at the store, but the fuel rail o-rings I lost so I have nothing to show to match them up. Is there a part number for them?

they will come in a set, maybe felpro, but they have an injector o ring set for $26 last time i was lookin at it. and the other o ring i think youll have to go dealer on that one or a local hardware store or bearing place

i just posted a link to the thread where the numbers for the o rings are at. Ill just go get it for you.

17113034 is the gm number for both the feed line o ring and the one for the fpr on the return side.

So i have to spend $22 for one injector o-ring....thats BS!

Doesn't anyone have any laying around?

hardware store

which o ring from the injector is it? I have a few of the ones between the injector and the rail laying around. I have none of the seals between the rail and the intake though. If that is the one you need pm me your address. Ill send it out tomorrow.

They are the same size for both sides of the injector, i checked. but either way i need the one thats rail to injector anyways...

I just went to Autozone for mine when I did my LIM gasket change, asked to look at their o-rings that were gas friendly, and picked out the sizes I needed... worked perfectly, and only a few cents each. They usually have a tray full of different sizes to pick from. Ask the guy behind the counter.

yah they even have entire kits that have over 100 o rings in diff sizes for a few bucks, well worth the money

Yea well, the fuel injector o-rings I can actually bring in to match it up...but both fuel rail o-rings I lost so I don't have anything to compare it to...

is there sizes for those two or should I just buy a huge assortment and hope for the best.

and assorted piece set will have the size you need, also in the "help" section they will have a little package of assorted o rings that you could use also

Do you have a part number or like anything to say to get the exact package you got?

These are also fuel resistant correct?

The Oring that goes where the fuel line connects to the FPR I didn't even see what it looked like before I lost it, is that one bigger then the one that goes where the fuel feed line meets the fuel rail?

I found an oring that was pretty close to the one i ripped on the feed line and then I added thread sealer to the threads. There are no leaks so far.

yea went to ace hardware and got orings...fixed everything up no leaks.

Now to figure out what to do about the power steering pump.

Supposedly you can swap just the reservoir? But I dunno if you can with the pulley still on?

I might just go to a junkyard and bring tools to take one off another car and ask if I do it myself will they give me a good price.

power steering pulley puller can be rented to take the pulley off the old pump