Another quick question.

Does anybody have the part number or name of the two following tubes/hoses.

Hose that connects the MAP sensor to the top of the fuel pressure regulator.

and

Tube that goes from the rear valve cover and plugs into the top of the air intake system. It's a vaccuum tube im pretty sure...

any part numbers or exact names?

exact names are MAP sensor/manifold vacuum line, i have the pn somewhere but it would be better to call a dealership and ask them the pn...also the other line is a PCV hose for rear valve cover

IIRC, GM calls those two pieces as one part a "PCV harness" - I have the GM part number at home. will post it later tonight.

the other part has nothing to do with the PCV though, it is just the vacuum hose for the map sensor and FPR , ok the map sensor tube is called just that a map sensor tube, its pn 24508184, idk about the other one though

Yea im just going to the junkyard for it anyways...

PCV harness..hmm nah i dont think so

i wouldnt, it can deteriorate really fast when left in a place like that with no use, i wouldnt get any vacuum fittings from a j yard at all, dealer shows only like $15 new, i paid about 12, so its not that much for a brand new piece

the thing that goes from the rear valve cover to the intake is just this thick plastic tube..blow through it and its clean...

the other tube is actual small rubber, it broke whenm I was removing it from the MAP and cracked right where the rubber meets the "T" shaped grommet thing.

id obviously inspect it for wear, and its just convenient because Im going to be at the junkyard for a power steering pump regardless.

ok well just so you know that map sensor vacuum harness is all one piece, you cant really take the rubber t off the vacuum hose, its bonded on it, you will mess it up, i know ive tried it

i didnt mean take that off, the valve cover to intake tube is thick so i can clean that out...

the map sensor to fpr tube ill just blow through it and make sure its not clogged. if thats the case itll be fine as a temp fix.

do you know how badly im having withdrawel from my car...i havent started the thing up in almost a week now. I sat in it and actually missed driving again...i remember that feeling

Wow, i've had a pretty rough time with the LIM. I broke a bolt over tightening one of the valve covers and then when i finished the SES light was on. Some sort of bad connection with the MAP. Had to take it to the shop and they charged 390$. Which is within 5$ of what i saved by doing the LIM myself so i guess i break even huh. Oh except for the fact that the O-ring i put on the fuel feed apparently dosnt fit and i'm leaking gas. I have a nice tiny puddle on top of my LIM right where the feed line connects i'm assuming that is where it has to be leaking since there are not any puddles around the injectors. Looks like i'll be diving in again to fix that. Is there any quick fix or do I have to take off the UIM for the 10th time and hope not to screw up the gasket?

I need the part number for the tube that runs from the rear valve cover to the top of the intake. It's the thick plastic tube, im sure anyone knows what im talkling about...

but whats the part #?
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I rented a pulley puller tool and i cannot get this friggin old pulley off...its no use

is it a powersteering pulley remover or just a pulley puller? make sure u use the right tool for the job. and the other hose is a pcv hose, but i dont know the pn for it

Pulley Puller and Installer Set.


I got the old pulley off, putting the new one on is hurting my friggin wrist and taking forever

lol, yah its best to remove the stock one using a brass jawed vise(or brass jaw inserts) to hold the pulley while you remove it, and also its easier to take it off when it is on the car so it dont rotate

Consider investing in a code reader, they can be had for under 80$ I think (maybe even a good bit cheaper than that) and you can find out what that SES means rather than taking it to a shop and blowing 400$.

yea this tool is retarded. it got the old pulley off good, but the threading on the installer screw is the opposite of what it should be. i need something to hold the pulley while i install it because after i get to a certain point where it applies pressure, itll just start turning the pulley.


is there a SAFE way to hold the pulley? the pulleys are very delicate.

what i mentioned or a vice grip could work, just cover the tips with a rag or something to keep good grip but not mark the pulley

ok well car is completely back together now...

funny thing is i was on empty when i started this all so i need to go get some gas in a jug and fill her up.

should be running soon!

glad to hear it dude. Hopefully it all works. Did you get the ps pump figured out?

Or just take it to Autozone or the like and get it read for FREE.

well the prob with a generic code reader is that they cant read all the codes, esp some abs codes and air bag codes, and they can only read hard fault codes, there is more info in other stored codes that a regular code reader wont pick up. also current codes cannot be picked up by a reg code reader, if you want to be more in depth and get everything from the car you can, just get an autotap code reader, im sure those work very well. i have an 05 nemisys that works like a dream, the only it doesnt have it bi directional control, but thats ok. it only cost me 1000 brand new

Yea I got the power steering pump figured out. Swapping the reservoir is actually very simple. I did that instead of trying to swap the variable steering over to the other pump, i just kept mine and swapped the reservoir and pulley over to the one originally on there.


To take off the reservoir you pull up the center of the top and bottom clips and just knock softly on the side of the clip with a hammer and they both slide right off. Then the reservoir just detatches. This can all be done with the pulley on, it's awesome.

Yah My rail is leaking so i'm about to head to Advance to grab a new oring. This should be the last thing I have to do. I bet its alot quicker the second time around. Makes me want to do my friends for him just to see how quick it could be. Also one more question, would using thread sealer on the nut that goes into the fuel feed line help?

glad to hear it wushdish. BH im not sure, ill let one of the more knowledgable guys on here answer that question.

I wouldnt put threadsealer on the fuel line nuts..just because normal bolts just thread into a hole...the fuel line bolts thread into the fuel line and the threadlock could get caught in the fuel rail.

I'd suggest just getting the orings...and what I did is I went to Ace Hardware and went in the plumbing section and they had like this rotating wall thing of all different o-ring sizes for like 30 cents each. Theres a picture on the front of each little cubby thing to match up the size you need. This worked perfect, no leaks.

Alrighty, just put the new oring on I used the metric 10mmx15mmx2.5mm from advance. I didn't put the thread sealer on. No leaks so far but we'll see. I think now after 7 days, countless hours and tons of skin off my hands I am done with the LIM replacement...

Uhm yea...started my car and it starts up good...

then after like 5 seconds it slowly dies and you hear a hissing sound then the car just dies...

please any suggestions..

could a broken hose from the fpr to the MAP cause stalling? i just taped it back together for now...

or the hose coming from the rear valve cover to the intake?

Do you smell any fuel? I know you did a lot of work on the fuel lines and rails and such. If you put your head right above it can you smell anything? Are there any fluids dripping? I would go back through the walkthrough and check every connection that you had to undo.

There was no fuel leaks while i was doing the job by testing it with the key in the "ON" position. Then I look now and I don't really see any fuel leaks at all...i cant tell if i can smell fuel because ive smelled it too often...and if there is a smell of fuel its very faint then.


Can those two vaccuum hoses being cracked be the cause of stalling??

Also the fuel return line opposite of the one that goes into the fpr is slightly pinched. Not to the point where it would cut off the flow of a fluid but theres a slight dent in it...

Any suggestions...

yah taping is not a good idea, def go with the new one. and the hissing is prob a vacuum leak, prob from your bad connection, and also check and make sure the PCV pipe on the rear valve cover is plugged all the way in the cover and the intake. it is at a funny angle and the coil bracket is supposed to kint of keep it seated, so make sure that is good also. and make sure you torqued all the bolts down to spec, esp the ones on the TB

Yea those two things are definately broke...so that can cause stalling? that was my question. I know they need replacing but i didnt think it would effect the car staying on.


Is that dented fuel line a problem??? If its bad I'll take the UIM off and try to squeeze the pipe back to normal.


The dent is basically right where the fuel line does a 90 degree turn to go into the fuel rail. On the outer side right below the elbow of the 90 degree its kind of fflattened. Basically imagine me hitting the thing with a hammer to get it to go into the fuel rail. but not that bad! haha

well the fuel line isnt a big concern right now, but if you decide to go big power, then i would look at that to be replaced. yes a big vacuum leak like that will stall the engine. get it fixed asap and itll all be good to go then as far as that goes.

Okay wait...when you turn the key to the ON position it pressurizes the fuel system. So when you take off that cap on the fuel rail and press the button inside alot of air and fuel should come out correct?

Because I pressed it and only a tiny squirt of fuel came out and that was it...does this mean that the dented fuel rail is blocking the fuel ??

no. it means that you havent started the vehicle completely, because the fuel press takes a little bit to equalize. someimtes only a small quantity comes out when it has been sitting for a while, but if you start it up and let it run for a little bit and then try the schrader valve, then it will spew out a good amount

so replace the hoses and it should run good...

now the hard part is i need the part numbers for them.

i gave u the pn for the map hose, try lookin up a few posts

yea thats the only pn i got so far...i cant figure out the other

Okay so if these wires/hoses are replaced it should stop the stalling?

It just seems very odd for the car to stall out because of two wires...i just came across a post of someone who said they noticed the pcv tube fell out of the rear valve cover and they didnt notice, meaning the car ran without it in and they didnt notice..

so are you SURE its just these wires? cuz if its not, then i have no clue what the problem is...theres no visible fuel leaks so im stumped if this doesnt work.

plus these tubes are special parts and it say it can take up to 7-10 days to ship.


oh and ANOTHER QUESTION. When you install the fuel rail and seat the injectors, is the Oring on the injector supposed to go THROUGH the holes or sit on top of them? I mean like should the orings pop through the hole or should they be sitting on top of the hole sealing off around it?

Okay here's an update...

The fuel rail is in right im almost positive. This is EXACTLY what happens.


You start the car it sounds like it normally does...then 3 seconds later it dies and about 1 second after it dies you hear "PSSST" coming from the fuel rail area... but i cannot see any leaks...it looks like the fuel just sprays out really fast and then its done.

I do smell fuel...i really dont think its the tubes i was talking about...something with the fuel is not right.