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AaronGTR 07-18-2011 10:40 PM

temporarily boostless
So yeah... car has been coming along since the rebuild. Put about 280 miles on it then did my first oil change last weekend. Went from 10w30 conventional back to 5w30 conventional. Going to keep conventional in it for the first 1000 miles for break in based on recommendations, then back to synthetic.

Got my new oil lines fabbed up so the oil t-stat is incorporated in the setup now and hooked the oil cooler and remote filter back up to the engine. Seems to be working really well. Warms up to 180 and stays right there so far. I'll be able to tell better how it's working when the weather cools off again.

While I was playing around under there I also made up a little extension for the splash shield in the drivers side fender to cover the little open space in there and protect the CAI filter a little better. Used a small square of sheet aluminum with a couple holes drilled in it and some pop rivets to hold it to the plastic shield. Turned out pretty good.

And now for the sad part. I've been getting a lot of bearing squeaking coming from the engine bay recently, and it was pretty much constant now. I was pretty sure it was the SC since the bearing on the end of the drive has been slowly leaking oil for some time. So I put the stock size belt back on to bypass the SC and see if it went away... sure enough it did. Sooooo I guess I need to take the SC off and send it out for a rebuild. :( I'm going to get a quote from Stiegemeier's to do the work No outer case polishing for me though. It's out of my budget and really more bling than even I want. lol I'm just going to ask them if they can paint it gloss black for me while everything's apart, and of course I want them to port the blower case along with fixing or replacing anything else that's worn on it like the bearings. Hopefully after this it will be good to drive for another 6+ years. :)

stewartfn18 07-18-2011 11:08 PM

that blows

speedfreak1 07-18-2011 11:10 PM

that sucks man. seems like there always has to be something to go wrong. been the same way with my car this summer

HOYS 07-18-2011 11:35 PM


Originally Posted by stewartfn18 (Post 1160821)
that blows

Actually its not blowing :amraam:

MAC the KNIFE 07-19-2011 05:21 AM

that sucks. but like you said, after you send out and port the blower, you will have a totally fresh build.

lightningGA 07-19-2011 06:24 AM

Sucks to hear Aaron.
I am interested in what they quote you for the porting and rebuild though.

blckgagt 07-19-2011 07:12 AM

Always a sad day when a fellow boost brother goes out of commission. Hopefully it will be better than before when you get it back.

hahano404 07-19-2011 08:04 AM


tipnitty 07-19-2011 10:51 AM


Originally Posted by HOYS (Post 1160824)
Actually its not blowing :amraam:

Damnit, beat me to it.

Well atleast it happened now, and now when the motor is freshly broken in. Talk about a tease.

AaronGTR 07-19-2011 03:32 PM

Yeah, got a few hundred more miles to put on it before it's really well broke in and I can turn the boost back up. I was running with the low boost pulley on it. Hopefully the porting will give me more boost with the same pulley because when I dropped from a 2.5 to a 2.4 I only gained 1psi and it should have been 2. I really think it was about maxed for flow.

Anyway, they haven't emailed me back yet so I'm just waiting for their reply. Need to find out if they need my TB or not so I know if I'll be able to drive the car or if I'll be riding a bike to work. lol I tried taking the SC out the other night but ran into a road block when I tried putting the 65mm TB on my intake. It's too big and the throttle plate won't fit in the plenum opening. Didn't even think of that at first. I still have a stock TB but I'd have to switch the shaft and everything back over, and I also don't have any intake tubing that fits the stock TB anymore either. So my solution was to spend 3 hours yesterday porting the opening on my spare UIM to 65mm, and I ported and gasket matched the runners while I was at it. So I might be using that temporarily, but I'll probably be selling if when I'm done it anyone wants it. ;)

AaronGTR 07-19-2011 06:26 PM

Just got an email back from them... prices must have gone up. When mkopsi had his done they did everything including the external show polish for $1095 shipped. They quoted me $895 for porting and rebuild and $100 for painting the case, so basically $100 less without the polishing which is usually expensive by itself. Damn. :(

unfortunately they didn't answer all the questions I asked in the email either, so I guess I'm going to have to call them tomorrow. I mean I know they are busy and all :rolleyes: but if I'm going to fork over a grand to them I'd think they could take the time to answer all my questions. Not like they are the only game in town. I know at least two other places I can get it rebuilt (The high speed lab, and magnacharger themselves).

MAC the KNIFE 07-19-2011 08:37 PM

are highspeed lab and maggie willing to do porting work?

AaronGTR 07-20-2011 05:33 PM

Nope, neither of them will do porting.

I've been reading some articles and there some opinions that porting helps and some that it doesn't. Hard to separate the truth from the blatant advertisement for various shops if you know what I mean. ;)

I'm leaning towards some of the articles that say that porting may help a little, but it has limited effect and you have to be careful how you port because the blower is basically already designed pretty well from eaton. Such as this article here http://www.superchargerperformance.c...-modifications. What they are saying kind of matches what I saw on the port job from Stiegemeier's, where the change to the outlet is very small and most of the work is done on the inlet side. I have a feeling I may pick up more power from lowering the outlet air temp than from porting, so I'd really like to send it to High Speed Lab and get the rotor and case coatings, which Stiegemeier's doesn't offer. It would be great if I could find a place that could do both. I don't know if HSL has rebuilt a kit like this before, so I'm going to have to send them an email with a couple pics telling them what I have and see if they'll do it and for how much.

If they will do it, I'm tempted to just do a light porting myself (since I have the tools) and paint the case myself then put it back together and send it to them to rebuild (minus the inlet/outlet casting since they won't need it). That way I have a freshly painted and rebuilt blower that was ported AND with new low friction coating. :)

MAC the KNIFE 07-20-2011 09:25 PM

plug the silencer ports! if your new cam is less aggressive sounding, let the blower scream and get all the attention.
that was a good info site you linked to. i only knew of inlet porting anyways. but they say raising the roof makes it easier for the rotors to grab the air.
i also agree on the friction coating idea you've had.

if i could only do one thing, i would try to get more air through it, raising the efficiency, and not worry about the outlet temps. they make meth kits for that.

1) if you only did the inlet, that should let more air in, and maybe give you the same boost as before but on a bigger pulley than before. so it's not spinning as fast as it used to.
and if it's not spinning as fast as it used to, the outlet air temps should be cooler and you still have as much boost.

2) if you only did the coatings, you are still spinning the guts out of it to generate a certain psi.

but i would like to see your car get all of this.

AaronGTR 07-20-2011 10:39 PM

Don't forget though that lower outlet temps mean more air density which= more air in the same space and more power. ;) Colder air at 7psi will make more power than hotter air at 8psi, and without an I/C cooler outlet temps are crucial. I'd love to add an alky kit eventually to it as well, but right now it's not in the works. Only reason I'm rebuilding the blower is because it needs it. Otherwise I'd just be driving it as is.

street_fire 07-21-2011 09:01 AM

sorry to hear that Aaron... I bet it feels way different driving the grand am with out the SC..

lastyear4gt 07-22-2011 08:34 AM

Yeah I have decided to drive mine on a regular basis as well. I'm gonna get a set of winter tires and oil spray the **** out of it and enjoy it. I spent all this money on the car and it sits for 8 months out of a year. I almost sold the ga and my saturn ion (daily driver) and bought a new sti. I decided in the end to sell the Saturn and enjoy the ga.

That being said, my attention has now been drawn to the charger and the trans wondering about longevity and reliability. I think I'm gonna start collecting trans parts and hope for the best. It would be nice to see how you make out because I'm sure I'll end up with atleast one supercharger rebuild in the ga's life span. Especially considering my next project is an a2w ic and smaller pulley. How small of a pulley have you ran? I'm running a 2.6" for 7psi but that's the smallest I'm willing to go non-intercooled.

MAC the KNIFE 07-22-2011 12:55 PM

iirc Aaron was running a 2.4 when he did the last dyno run. it was a 60 degree day, and his air temps were near 100, about 9.5 lbs of boost.
i don't know what happened to most of the pictures on this thread, but it's a fenderwell mounted liquid to air IC. you might ask him how much his temps dropped, and what pulley he was using.

AaronGTR 07-22-2011 01:34 PM

Yep, 2.4" pulley got me 9.5psi at 6300rpm and that equals just over 14,700 blower rpm. The efficiency charts from Eaton only go up to 16,000rpm so I have to assume that is the recommend max blower rpm. I do know the faster you spin them the faster they wear and the more heat they make and efficiency is lost.

A 2.2" pulley would put me just over 16k at my redline. If I backed the redline down to 6100rpm that would keep me under, and allow me to build more boost at lower rpm. A rebuild with new bearings would help but they will still wear faster at that speed. A case porting and coating on the rotors and bores would lower the temps and increase the efficiency a bit. The outlet temps really are the main concern at that boost level though. That's why I've always said this blower is a bit small for this engine. An M90 would be able to make 10psi of boost at a lower rotor speed which would mean lower outlet temps at the same boost level. It's hard to completely get rid of KR at this point without running E85, even on 93 octane. It just needs higher octane and lower temps, so I will probably be adding a water/meth injection kit to it eventually since that will address both, as well as allowing me to set a slightly less rich commanded AFR in PE (since the alcohol is added fuel). Not sure if I will try the 2.2" pulley or not. I'd like the bearings to last for a while.

SilverGAGT2002 07-22-2011 06:26 PM

I like how your handling the situation...hope to see everything comes out well. Hopefully i can finally get something going with my grand am since its gonna be mine again lol

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