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eBandit 08-21-2011 05:08 PM

Non GA, but need help bad! 95 Sonoma 2.2L. Thanks!
Not sure if its ok to post this or if it should go in another forum section but figured I would get the best answers in this section.

I posted in an S10 forum but no answers me, I really need to figure this asap so any advice anyone can offer is greatly appreciated! (anyone local to me that helps with some advice and needs something in return like something welded etc. I will return the favor).

1995 GMC Sonoma 2.2L 4cyl. 2 wheel drive 5 speed.

The truck sometimes has trouble starting but normally will start ok. When it is running at its best the Check engine light is off and you can drive it but you have to be real easy on the gas, if you press the pedal past 1/2 (maybe less) it will bog down as if it is being held back and even jerk around and almost die. Sometimes (on a hill often) it will do that when you try to pull out and the truck is jerky and barely moving like it is about to die.

The check engine light comes and goes often and sometimes stay on for awhile, when its on it runs worse, sometimes hard to even get going and it is jerky and hesitating bad.

showing the following codes:

23 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Circuit High (Low Temp. Indicator)[One book shows that code as MAT sensor circuit low temp]

32 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system.

44 Lean Exhaust.

I found the IAT sensor plug unplugged. I plugged it back in after cleaning it up some (couldn't get all corrosion out but think its ok and put dielectric geese in the plug harness).

I knew plugs were old and one wire broke on me so I changed the plugs (were surely old) and the wires.

The codes were not there for a couple days and it ran mostly ok as long as you didnt push the pedal beyond somewhere between 1/3 and 1/2 or more. It was drivable though. (off topic, then the tensioner popped loose and the tensioner pully hit the main pulley and busted the tensioner pulley and was quickly shut off since it happened at start up, I replaced that as well.

Now the codes are back off and on and off; and it is doing the same rough running sometimes to a point so bad it isnt being driven now.

I checked the EGR valve it is not stuck and the EGR when pressed in comes right back open even while I plug the tiny hole with my finger is that ok?

I remember the pintle on the old IAC valve on my Pontiac was stiff (tried to move it by mistake), but when I pulled the IAC on the 95 Sonoma 2.2L the pintle went in by an easy bump (very easy!). is this normal for an old IAC to be that easily moved? Is it ok. The truck is having idle and running difficulties off and on pretty bad at times.

I cleaned up the IAC and the manifold where it goes in with MAF cleaner real good and put it back in. I noticed that with the IAC unplugged it runs the same as with it plugged in, no difference at least for my test drives. I did the manual stated test of the IAC checking resistance from various prongs and it all was within specs.

I am not sure what all to test from here on out.

I could really use some ideas and help. I might be getting frustrated and overlooking something, I dont know.


eBandit 08-22-2011 08:53 PM

I am told it may be the fuel pump, so I will test the pressure tomorrow.

With it revving fine out of gear but bogging down when you try to accelerate under load, would that still be a possible fuel pump issue?

The TPS tests fine, I tested the Crank position sensor best I could but only got halfway without a duty cycle meter.

Anyone have any ideas? Thanks

lastyear4gt 08-22-2011 09:45 PM

If I remember correctly, there is a solenoid on the back of the engine that controls the vacuum to the EGR. That may be faulty. I had the same problem with my brothers truck same as yours, and that fixed it. Also check the fuel filter. That can do really weird things sometimes.

lastyear4gt 08-22-2011 09:46 PM

Do you get like a backfire/popping through the intake?

eBandit 08-22-2011 10:03 PM

Thanks I will check the fuel pressure tomorrow and maybe just replace the filter. Yeah there is a solenoid controlling the EGR, it is like $22 for a new one I think. There is no vacuum pulling at idle from that solenoid but I think that's normal, the EGR doesn't do anything till your at speed does it?

No backfiring/popping through intake at all.

This thing has been frustrating. It belongs to my Mother & Step-Father. I'm trying to avoid it having to go into a shop and cost them money they need elsewhere with all my mothers medical bills etc...

I appreciate the replies!

lastyear4gt 08-23-2011 04:06 PM

If there is no backfiring, it's more than likely a fueling issue. Bet the filter fixes it.

eBandit 08-23-2011 09:42 PM

I wish it did, but it didn't :-(

Had to get a piece of fuel line cause the line twisted off the filter on one end, fixed that and replaced the filter. Same issue, no change.

I have yet to test fuel pressure cause there is no test nipple on the truck and to put the t fitting in after the fuel filter I will have to spread the line away from the filter so much the other line will surely break cause this truck is badly rusted. About 2 years ago i had to replace every single brake line on it due to rust.

What a mess this truck is! Have to be careful where I jack it at and put jack stand so it doesn't go through and fall on me, there are holes in the frame rusted through in a couple spots. I can easily fix the frame, done lots of frame and subframe repairs before for people, but thats besides the point.

Time to replace this piece of crap, but they need me to get it running best I can for now.

It just had no power at all when trying to take off. Was bogging down just like before.

lastyear4gt 08-24-2011 09:37 AM

Only 2 things it can be air or fuel. Your gonna have to check both.

eBandit 08-24-2011 10:00 AM

Even though it revs fine under no load, could the fuel pump be week and causing this?

I know for many years it was ran with very little fuel in it. Not normally filled up. Not sure if that matters or not. A mechanic at a shop I spoke with the other day said best guess (after telling him all I had done and checked) would be fuel pump.

I hope I can test the pressure without breaking anymore lines.

eBandit 08-24-2011 02:06 PM

I wonder if the system not being seals caused any of the issues? My GAGT will run a little rough if I pull in to have the my tank full (if the line for self service is real long at Swifty) and dont turn the car off. As soon as the gas cap is removed it runs a little rough until its put back on. I know a sealed gas cap is important anyway, but could the symptoms I described be caused by this rusted filler line?


eBandit 08-25-2011 12:23 PM

Ordered a new Fuel tank, sending unit/fuel pump combo. After shipping the tank was about $75 and the fuel pump/sending unit combo just under $100 total. Comes out of Cinci, OH. shipping tomorrow so wont take long. Bought off ebay from Midwest AutoParts, spoe with them on the phone to verify parts numbers etc. first.

After I get it in and go get some fuel line material to bend I will post how it does with the new stuff.

I hope this is it. If not I hope someone has more ideas.

Pictures of the rusted gas tank and one of the frame rust sections I need to reinforce.

eBandit 09-03-2011 07:30 AM

Runs great now! Must have been the fuel pump and/or the gas tank not being sealed. Had to replace most of the fuel lines too. next I have to repair and re-enforce the frame and change the clutch/pressure plate etc...


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