anyone have any links to an exact replacement? Want bright but not too expensive its just a light

Bulb # is 194.

Google is your friend.

or that little book in your glove box.. might be called the owners manual.. it had every bulb used in the car listed in it.

Here newb

Product Code: WLED-x5-CBT

http://www.superbrightleds.com/searc...ent-bulbs/194/

#2... that's what I've got, and then Tanner (yes hard to please Tanner lol ) decided it was perfect and got one lol

Dunno why you would want anything otherthen white as a plate light anyway. Blue looks tacky and messes with your eyes and red is not better.

I got the 5 SMD LED one in cool white.

Here's a pic, its much better then the 1 LED one that I had in there before. Keep in mind that one of the 5 LEDs is actually burnt out on mine, found that out installing it but its the one that is on the tip so it doesn't affect anything.

Not too bright, not too dull, but just right. Its not like Aarons airplane run way light :D

http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/a...psa231bc54.jpg

Yeah I don't miss that white stuff at all...

I'd love to NEVER BE ABLE TO SEE SNOW AGAIN.

It was fuggin cold out man, figured k would type the question instead of going to the car to get the manual, extreme laziness

Aarons plate light melts the curb lol

Hey, it's not all that bright! lol I blame the camera setting for making it look that way. ;)

Well I have two questions for you all.

I replaced my rack and pinion along with the presure hoses today and I'm glad to be done with that.

Two more things that concern me:

1: my car doesn't seem to be loosing coolant because I check they resivior and it's still at the full line everytime when I check it however under my radiador on the drivers side I see a little bit of orange dexcool at the round opening that you can see in the picture. Is that normal?

My other concern is the oil I find around my oil pan. I was told by a shop that it's due to the a leaky front crankshaft seal. However, when I took my car to the dealership they told me that they didn't see a leak and so they put dye in my oil and told me to come back after I have driven 500 miles.

My car doesn't seem to be running low on oil at all, however, this is what I'm seeing (pic of oil pan)

On the radiator, that round thing you took a pic off is actually the bottom radiator post and the rubber bushing it sits in. That's what supports the radiator and holds it in place. It shouldn't have any coolant there really, but it can get down in there if it drips from other places. It's possible the plastic end tank could be cracked somewhere, or it could just be left over from some time when it was drained. Dry it with a paper towel as best you can and see if it comes back.

The oil, it's hard to say without getting a close look at it. There are a lot of places oil can come from. Could be a rear crank seal. Could be a little seepage from the oil pan gasket. If it's not making a puddle on the driveway I wouldn't get super concerned about it. Just keep an eye on it to see if it worsens.

Yeah I did recently flush my coolant so that's probably why. I dried it with a paper towel and it is gone. Well now all I have left is the oil concern. I want to fix it, I just need to figure out where it's leaking from. Do I really have to wait like 500 miles for the dye to go through?

No idea. I've never heard of putting dye in the oil. Usually they do that with A/C and cooling systems. It won't take that long to mix into the oil obviously, but if the leak is slow, it might take a long time for it to seep out where they can see it. That might be why they told you to wait that long.

Oh I see. Well I'll just keep an eye on it. I replaced my rack and pinion today, wasn't too bad.

Just a pain in the ass to do it 3 times in 6 months ;crap

Three times??? Wtf

how big of a pain is the front crank seal??? mine's not fixing itself... so it's up to me!

Well... you don't have to remove the engine like you do for the real seal, so that's a plus.

It can be a pain though. You have to take the harmonic damper off, so you'll need to rent a crank pulley removal/installer kit. There's not a ton of room to work down in there so you can't get it on and off from the top. You have to take off the passenger side wheel and splash shield and the top engine mount so the front of the engine drops down a little. Then you can get the puller on and get the pulley out. Old seal gets pried out with a flat blade. They have a metal case and are a tight fit, so getting the new one in can be tricky. I oil it up and tap it in with a piece of wood and a mallet to try and keep it square and get it flush with the front cover. It's tight putting the damper back in too. Have to oil that up and push it in then use the installer to draw it down. Whatever you do don't try and use the crank bolt as it will strip. Make sure to oil the threads on the installer tool as well. :thumbs: