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Reaper3240 01-04-2013 09:24 PM

Quick Tuning Questions
Few quick questions, but first a little background. Im getting rdy to pull the trigger on an lx9 near by w/10k miles on it, tuning wise cant i just reflash my computer for the lx9s stock specs then? Also im not sure which tuner to get, ive heard good and bad, and ones discontinued etc etc, so i would some conformation on the one i should get....

Another thing im curious about is after, assuming i can, i get the stock tune reprogrammed into my comp, i should then do things such as what as for engine power/tuning, should i use timing and a/f or the maf, or a combo of the two-its been awhile since ive read on how to tune so kid gloves lmao-

Course i will up the shift points, line pressure, gov/rev delete readjust the fan kick on times etc, any good suggestions as to some tricks/overlooked things to do? As always any and all info is welcome, thanks guys!


young gun 01-05-2013 12:05 AM

Buy a generic tuning book. Join hptuners forum. Sure there is people on here that know things but it is just a pita to explain it and I'm sure they learned what they know on their own or from someone in real life (lol).

HPT or DHP. HPT is still alive and kicking so you can easily resell, get help (forums,customer support(i think)), use on other cars BUT at a cost of buying tokens for another car to use the tuner on. DHP is dead and there is little to no help with it. But you can use it on any of the cars it supports but the list won't grow any larger. People say HPT is more friendly, yet I have DHP and I find it just swell.

Reaper3240 01-05-2013 12:20 AM

Thanks for the reply bud, great info! Ill prolly go with HPT then, i knew about the tokens, but i couldnt remember which one was "dead" lol any good books on tuning, say from HP Books that youd recommend? While im rebuilding the engine, i wana learn to tune so that when its warmer out and no
Snow, i can drop it in, then get right to tuning it. I was correct in thinking i can just get the stock tune file for the lx9 -there one floating around?- and upload it to my comp as a base to start tuning from right?

Doesnt seem like there would b any reason not to, however i just wanted to know for sure so ive got my ducks in a row haha since itl take me a while to save for a proper turbo build, was thinking of going with a cam from comp cams, any suggestions?

Would be nice to dip into the 13s which i think is very feasible with the lx9 and a cam, stock heads, and such, nothing wild, something tame, but worthy of mention at the same time, ya know?
Looking forward to replies, thx again bud!

MercenaryX2 02-14-2013 10:21 AM

If you want a quick run down for tuning, start with the basics. If you've changed your air intake delivery, work on scaling your MAF to get your fuel trims close to 0. Next, work on your AFR's getting them in check. You want about low 13's at peak torque, then enrichen to about mid to low 12's by redline, maybe higher. Its better to start rich and work your way up.

After you get your AFR's in check, do a few pulls on the same stretch of flat road with no turns, or a dyno if you really have the money for that, to see if you are having any knock. If not, tune by a method called minimum timing best torque (MTBT). DO NOT TUNE FOR KNOCK! Tuning for knock is an improper way of tuning and is not recommended, especially when tuning for ethanol.

Tuning the pressure lines and shift points is beyond me as to I've never tuned transmissions. As for others, you want your fans to kick on around the degree of your thermostat. Example - 180* thermostat, have your fans kick on LOW at 180, then HIGH at 190. Rev limiter you should leave alone seeing how you're looking at a stock valve train. The rest is just a matter of on/off of what emissions you delete.

Hope that helps.

AaronGTR 02-14-2013 03:56 PM

You shouldn't scale your MAF at all unless you switch to a different MAF in which case you change to the stock table for that MAF. Changing the MAF table is not the way to achieve proper fueling. At least not that I've ever heard.

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