THis is what $550 gets me
 

Got lucky on craigslist. 2000 Grand Am SE2. Navy Metallic paint if I remember right.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...731_194051.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...731_193347.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...731_193409.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...731_193515.jpg
Only bad thing about the car.....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...731_193830.jpg
and
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...731_193839.jpg
Codes are for a bad wheel speed sensor, once fixed 3 lights will go off and oil was changed but the shop didnt reset it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...731_193656.jpg
Engine is pretty clean. Needed the LIM done. Also had the UIM, thermostat, oil and coolant changed.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...731_193603.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...731_193540.jpg
Interior is in great shape and has the cutout headrests. My first SE didnt have these.

A blank canvas waiting to be painted...Let me know what you guys think. Will have updates as things are added.

I think you got a really good deal. $550? hell my headers alone cost that.

Rust rust and more rust, no telling what the rust is like under it.

BTW to reset the oil light just make sure the key is on the "on" position and go into the "fuse box" thing on the side of the dash, left of the fog light switch where the front driver door covers when closed and press and hold the reset button, it says something in the manual about it will start blinking and when to let off the button. I remember reading it and it said "instrument panel" and so you would assume its the tripometer button but nooo

Or pump the gas pedal to the floor 3 times with the key in the 'on' position, and engine off. ;)

^ you spoiled kids with your new fangled oil reset techniques...


us old timers had to actually push a button to reset ours :D

I think my way is alot safer and is the right way to do it lmao

It's not either/or it's the 02 I think and newer switched to that style of reset T

"Got lucky"

If that's luck, Ill spend my money on quality all day long. Have fun with that.

what are the switches for? those 2 under the radio and hvac controls.
also, i think i see a wire ran from the relay box under the hood for an amp?

I guess it's not bad for the money.

Hopefully there really isn't anything else wrong with it other than needing a new hub to get the lights off. Considering the age and mileage, I doubt it, but if so then yeah it wouldn't be a bad daily driver for that cheap. Needs a new front bumper too, but that shouldn't be too expensive.

http:// http://www.grandamgt.com/for....php?p=1221837
Thats what those are for. One for the ampand one for the dvd override.

Someone put the amp and override on switches??

That's stupid.

Switches are for the NOS, yo.

I put them on switches for reasons. I kill the amp when my kids ( i have 3 under 5 yrs) ride with me and the override is only overridden when my kids are with as well. makes long trips not so long when they can watch a movie. I have a color matched bumper lined up. just need to go get it plus all the other front parts.

Not to throw stones, but you DID inspect the frame before plunking down the dough right?

A midwestern winter driven car with that kind of mileage on it could have a swiss cheeze frame and you'd not know it...until the subframe fails at 70 MPH.

For $550, it is what it is.

If anything, OP could easily flip it or just part it out and still make a profit.

Not necessarily.

If the frame fails, the car-depending on the legalities in MN-could be considered a salvage title. At that point if he tries to give away the car at a bus stop he'll get declined.

There's not much of a market for 200K mile Grand Ams with rusted frames.

Like I said, part it out. If the frame is bad, that doesn't make the rest of it's parts invaluable.

Im mentioning the point as I'd hate to be the guy who sinks money and time getting the LIM fixed only to discover the rest of the car is worthless.