Remote Mount Turbo Project - Page 5

3800SII · 10-21-2008, 12:38 PM

[quote=KrazyGT-03;1036291]hey whatever happened to this? any updates / pics of your progress? jus curious to see some results from this setup...[/QUOTE

Sorry about the wait, I am working on the turbo and muffler flanges this week.
Last weekend I had the CAT Converter cut and moved about 8 inches downstream. I removed the resonator and replaced about 3 feet of exhaust pipe with a flexjoint piece, the CAT, and 2.5 inch exhaust pipe. I coupled the whole piece with a V-Band clamp. Works like a charm, but now the exhaust is REALLY LOUD!!! Don't forget that I am still using a crossflow muffler even after the turbocharger. I hope the turbo can quiet the exhaust down considerably.

BTW, The CAT will be removed upon final assembly of the exhaust system.

Last night I plumbed the oil pressure and return lines to the turbocharger and the
scavenge pump. I ran out of brass fittings and clamps so the work was cut a little short. I have routed part of the pressure hose inside the trunk where there is a
brass shutoff valve. If I grenade the turbo, I can easily detatch the turbo and cutoff pressure so that engine damage does not occur. I can do this in about 15
minutes and still drive the car home to safety if necessary.

I used a combination of nylon loops (from Home Depot), sheet metal screws, and
wire ties to brace the hoses under the car. I am still debating on wheter or not to
send the oil return hose to the oil pan or valve cover.

I will post some pics LATE tonight after about 11pm. I get off work at Autozone at around 10 so it will take me at least an hour to get home and get setup...

AaronGTR · 10-21-2008, 03:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3800SII

BTW, The CAT will be removed upon final assembly of the exhaust system.

Why? Do you like smelly exhaust fumes? Just get a high flow, it's not going to hurt anything.

Quote:

I used a combination of nylon loops (from Home Depot), sheet metal screws, and
wire ties to brace the hoses under the car. I am still debating on wheter or not to
send the oil return hose to the oil pan or valve cover.

Oil pan. You don't want to be spilling all that hot oil over your valve train. Plus it increase the chance that you'll start pulling excessive amounts of oil through your PCV system into your intake.

3800SII · 10-21-2008, 10:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AaronGTR

Why? Do you like smelly exhaust fumes? Just get a high flow, it's not going to hurt anything.

Oil pan. You don't want to be spilling all that hot oil over your valve train. Plus it increase the chance that you'll start pulling excessive amounts of oil through your PCV system into your intake.

Thanks for the tip... Yeah, no Cat stinks but, Rearmounts need plenty of extra help. Besides, I don't want pieces of the unit breaking up and grenading the turbo. I have considered some Steel converters that I saw on ebay.

I have used two High flow converters on my Firebird. They were destroyed even though the car was NA!

3800SII · 10-21-2008, 10:13 PM

PICS YALL!!!!

This is the oil line in the trunk behid the lining. You see the shutoff valve, and I will also place the Relay for the pump here to make things easier also. You can also see the check valve before the turbo which is underneath the hole.

Here is a shot of the oil lines routed along the safety brake cable

This is the nylon strap for the return hose

Here is a shot of the new main exhaust pipe from the cat back. Notice the V-band.

Can you see the flexjoint and CAT? I will get some new pics and get them up tomorrow.

timberwoof · 10-22-2008, 09:06 AM

McFlurrey06 · 10-22-2008, 09:22 AM

lookin' good

Nick-G · 10-22-2008, 02:15 PM

Looks great but IMO you should have used braided hoses and AN fittings on those oil lines just to be safe.

3800SII · 10-22-2008, 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nick-G

Looks great but IMO you should have used braided hoses and AN fittings on those oil lines just to be safe.

I took that into consideration, but I looked at the costs of AN fittings and Braided hoses versus simple brass fittings and transmission tubing. I had zero problems
from the same type of setup on my Firebird. Never had one leak. All you need to
do is to make sure that the lines are not next to hot or moving parts of the car.

I could have gone for a stiffer power steering hose which is sold by the foot at $2
bucks each, but I decided to stick with this stuff instead...

Yeah... I know that I can be pretty dammned cheap

3800SII · 11-11-2008, 05:26 PM

Guys, this is really coming along good! The guys at the muffler shop attached the wastegate today. hey are pros and the work is topnotch! You cant even see the WG standing behind the car. I had about two or three patrons at the shop wondering what the heck I had back there!

I still have not plumbed the main exhaust into the turbo just yet. I am working on the intercooler piping and oil return system this week. I should have those parts finished this Saturday

cmtapanes · 11-11-2008, 06:11 PM

project looks good... I should be getting the wastegate on Friday and I'm getting the mandrel bend pipes next week; I been trying to do my rear mount turbo for a while now so I think I should be posting pictures soon.

The check valve is a good idea. I'm also using an oil pressure switch that will alert me that there's something wrong with the oil pressure before the pump.

Edit: make sure to place a 20amp fue on the pump for safety.

3800SII · 11-11-2008, 11:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cmtapanes

project looks good... I should be getting the wastegate on Friday and I'm getting the mandrel bend pipes next week; I been trying to do my rear mount turbo for a while now so I think I should be posting pictures soon.

The check valve is a good idea. I'm also using an oil pressure switch that will alert me that there's something wrong with the oil pressure before the pump.

Edit: make sure to place a 20amp fue on the pump for safety.

Thanks for the reminder. I went with an separate fuse block that holds eight diffenent fuses. I ran the wires inside the cab all the way from the trunk to the floorboard close to the brake pedal where it is mounted... Right now I am using a
15 amp, and I will switch out to a 20 once everything is connected.

3800SII · 11-17-2008, 10:19 PM

I completed the oil system tonight. I had to drill a larger hole in the frame area right behind the drivers side tire. Started her up and test ran the pump too. No leaks no problems. I tapped the oil pan (while still on the car) with a 1/4 NPT brass fitting. The tap is a little below the average oil line, but I don't think that it will be a problem because the pump pushes the return oil back into the pan anyhow...

Here are some preliminary pics of the intercooler piping. I am using a kit from ebay, but I quickly found out how tough it is to route stuff behind the front facia without 45 degree bends. Needless to say, half the piping will be aluminum, and half will be aluminized exhaust that Will have to be custom bent from the local muffler shop this weekend. I will paint it black
along with the rest of the kit...

The toughest part will be getting the piping around the battery and to the intake manifold without having to cut the hole already provided for the Ram Air assist.

McFlurrey06 · 11-17-2008, 10:22 PM

Remote mount the battery in the trunk? Or are you going for the sleeper stock look?

3800SII · 11-17-2008, 11:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crazy83519

Remote mount the battery in the trunk? Or are you going for the sleeper stock look?

Hmmmmm....... I did not think about that

Funny thing is that the Grandam has a nice fat space along the side of the door panels all the way to the back of the trunk inside the car. I wired up the oil pump on the inside for easy access. Why not the battery too?

I got an extra battery relocation kit in my garage to boot. I will take a serious look at this tomorrow.

AaronGTR · 11-18-2008, 05:19 AM

Yes, relocating the battery to the trunk really gives you a lot of room to play with in the engine bay. You still might to have to do some cutting to get the pipe in just the right place or angle though. There are two holes in that front corner, one for the factory air intake and one for the wiring harness, and there's kind of a thin band of metal in between them. You can cut that out without having to worry about structural integrity. I did that and it gave me a lot more room to position my intake piping.

3800SII · 11-18-2008, 10:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AaronGTR

Yes, relocating the battery to the trunk really gives you a lot of room to play with in the engine bay. You still might to have to do some cutting to get the pipe in just the right place or angle though. There are two holes in that front corner, one for the factory air intake and one for the wiring harness, and there's kind of a thin band of metal in between them. You can cut that out without having to worry about structural integrity. I did that and it gave me a lot more room to position my intake piping.

Well, You make your sales pitch a winner in my book! Thanks Aaron!

OK, I got a small issue with completing this project, and I wanted a little feedback...
I already have the fuel pump, injectors, ADFPR ready to be installed, but I know that this will be the most difficult thing to complete. My problem is that I might not have the "downtime" that I need to put these parts on. My Firebird has a nasty intake manifold leak and water is coming out of the lower intake along the fuel rail.
Therefore, it is not a great idea to drive the car. Additionally, I have a set of performance heads that need to be added to that car. It would be better to do the whole top end at one time instead of having to yank it all off again and spend more money for gaskets...
Seeing as how I am about to finish this project, and the car is my daily driver, I was wondering if I can just get a good tune with HPT, a Wideband and go with the stock fuel system temporarily with the WG adjusted to the lowest setting (adjustable from 4 to 7 psi) Any takers on advice?

zukiracer19 · 11-18-2008, 12:46 PM

i have a 5 lb spring in my wastegate, everything runs great.

3800SII · 11-18-2008, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zukiracer19

i have a 5 lb spring in my wastegate, everything runs great.

????? Well...are you running a stock fuel system with just a tune?? That was my question in a nutshell. I just want to get by for a week or so until I can drop the tank and put the 36lb injectors in. I will be happy to get by on less boost if I can run it safely.....

zukiracer19 · 11-18-2008, 01:22 PM

I think you'll need injectors but stock fuel pump is fine.

Shock24Z · 11-18-2008, 03:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3800SII

????? Well...are you running a stock fuel system with just a tune?? That was my question in a nutshell. I just want to get by for a week or so until I can drop the tank and put the 36lb injectors in. I will be happy to get by on less boost if I can run it safely.....

There is a good chance you will max the stockers. Do a scan and report the IPW values you see. This will tell you if you can get away with it or not.

10-21-2008, 10:13 PM	#84
3800SII GAGT - Member AKA: C BOYD Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: MEMPHIS, TN Posts: 504 Vehicle: 2004 GRAND AM GT	PICS YALL!!!! This is the oil line in the trunk behid the lining. You see the shutoff valve, and I will also place the Relay for the pump here to make things easier also. You can also see the check valve before the turbo which is underneath the hole. Here is a shot of the oil lines routed along the safety brake cable This is the nylon strap for the return hose Here is a shot of the new main exhaust pipe from the cat back. Notice the V-band. Can you see the flexjoint and CAT? I will get some new pics and get them up tomorrow. Last edited by 3800SII; 10-21-2008 at 10:15 PM.

10-22-2008, 02:15 PM	#87
Nick-G Boost Addict AKA: Nick Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: St Cloud, Minnesota Age: 31 Posts: 1,290 Vehicle: 2002 Grand Am GT V6	Looks great but IMO you should have used braided hoses and AN fittings on those oil lines just to be safe. __________________ BUILT Turbo 3400/4t65e-HD powered Grand AM in the making. ---------------------------------- www.motorsportsevolved.com Get updates on Facebook ----------------------------------

11-11-2008, 06:11 PM	#90
cmtapanes GAGT - Member AKA: Carlos Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Ruskin, Florida Age: 45 Posts: 608 Vehicle: 1999 Grand Am Coupe	project looks good... I should be getting the wastegate on Friday and I'm getting the mandrel bend pipes next week; I been trying to do my rear mount turbo for a while now so I think I should be posting pictures soon. The check valve is a good idea. I'm also using an oil pressure switch that will alert me that there's something wrong with the oil pressure before the pump. Edit: make sure to place a 20amp fue on the pump for safety. Last edited by cmtapanes; 11-11-2008 at 06:15 PM.

11-18-2008, 05:19 AM	#95
AaronGTR BlingWithBallz AKA: Aaron Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Detroit area, MI Age: 43 Posts: 12,254 Vehicle: 2000 Grand Am GT1 2dr	Yes, relocating the battery to the trunk really gives you a lot of room to play with in the engine bay. You still might to have to do some cutting to get the pipe in just the right place or angle though. There are two holes in that front corner, one for the factory air intake and one for the wiring harness, and there's kind of a thin band of metal in between them. You can cut that out without having to worry about structural integrity. I did that and it gave me a lot more room to position my intake piping. __________________ The few, the proud, the boosted! 13.788 @ 103.73 mph (3/2011) 320 whp and 300 ft/lbs torque. (3/2011) See it here. the total package.

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10-21-2008, 12:38 PM	#81
3800SII GAGT - Member AKA: C BOYD Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: MEMPHIS, TN Posts: 504 Vehicle: 2004 GRAND AM GT	[quote=KrazyGT-03;1036291]hey whatever happened to this? any updates / pics of your progress? jus curious to see some results from this setup...[/QUOTE Sorry about the wait, I am working on the turbo and muffler flanges this week. Last weekend I had the CAT Converter cut and moved about 8 inches downstream. I removed the resonator and replaced about 3 feet of exhaust pipe with a flexjoint piece, the CAT, and 2.5 inch exhaust pipe. I coupled the whole piece with a V-Band clamp. Works like a charm, but now the exhaust is REALLY LOUD!!! Don't forget that I am still using a crossflow muffler even after the turbocharger. I hope the turbo can quiet the exhaust down considerably. BTW, The CAT will be removed upon final assembly of the exhaust system. Last night I plumbed the oil pressure and return lines to the turbocharger and the scavenge pump. I ran out of brass fittings and clamps so the work was cut a little short. I have routed part of the pressure hose inside the trunk where there is a brass shutoff valve. If I grenade the turbo, I can easily detatch the turbo and cutoff pressure so that engine damage does not occur. I can do this in about 15 minutes and still drive the car home to safety if necessary. I used a combination of nylon loops (from Home Depot), sheet metal screws, and wire ties to brace the hoses under the car. I am still debating on wheter or not to send the oil return hose to the oil pan or valve cover. I will post some pics LATE tonight after about 11pm. I get off work at Autozone at around 10 so it will take me at least an hour to get home and get setup...

10-22-2008, 09:06 AM	#85
timberwoof Law Dawg AKA: Cody Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Portland Tx Posts: 1,827 Vehicle: 2004 Grand Am SE1	cool

11-11-2008, 05:26 PM	#89
3800SII GAGT - Member AKA: C BOYD Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: MEMPHIS, TN Posts: 504 Vehicle: 2004 GRAND AM GT	Guys, this is really coming along good! The guys at the muffler shop attached the wastegate today. hey are pros and the work is topnotch! You cant even see the WG standing behind the car. I had about two or three patrons at the shop wondering what the heck I had back there! I still have not plumbed the main exhaust into the turbo just yet. I am working on the intercooler piping and oil return system this week. I should have those parts finished this Saturday

11-17-2008, 10:19 PM	#92
3800SII GAGT - Member AKA: C BOYD Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: MEMPHIS, TN Posts: 504 Vehicle: 2004 GRAND AM GT	I completed the oil system tonight. I had to drill a larger hole in the frame area right behind the drivers side tire. Started her up and test ran the pump too. No leaks no problems. I tapped the oil pan (while still on the car) with a 1/4 NPT brass fitting. The tap is a little below the average oil line, but I don't think that it will be a problem because the pump pushes the return oil back into the pan anyhow... Here are some preliminary pics of the intercooler piping. I am using a kit from ebay, but I quickly found out how tough it is to route stuff behind the front facia without 45 degree bends. Needless to say, half the piping will be aluminum, and half will be aluminized exhaust that Will have to be custom bent from the local muffler shop this weekend. I will paint it black along with the rest of the kit... The toughest part will be getting the piping around the battery and to the intake manifold without having to cut the hole already provided for the Ram Air assist.

11-18-2008, 12:46 PM	#97
zukiracer19 BoOsTiN' AKA: slograndam Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: State College, PA Posts: 2,700 Vehicle: ev0m0de	i have a 5 lb spring in my wastegate, everything runs great.

11-18-2008, 01:22 PM	#99
zukiracer19 BoOsTiN' AKA: slograndam Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: State College, PA Posts: 2,700 Vehicle: ev0m0de	I think you'll need injectors but stock fuel pump is fine.