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Old 11-18-2008, 05:50 PM   #101
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Originally Posted by zukiracer19 View Post
I think you'll need injectors but stock fuel pump is fine.
up to a point at least
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Old 11-18-2008, 09:42 PM   #102
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On 5-6psi... you can get away with stock injectors and even a stock tune, as long as you add the AFPR so that the fuel pressure will go up properly under boost. Many people ran this way for years with the magnacharger kit with no problems. Sure it's not optimal for HP, but you should be safe running this way for a while until you have time to do the rest. If you have HPtuner then you might as well change the injectors though too. That would be the next step anyway and shouldn't take much time (depending on which injectors you got) and getting it running with those is as simple as changing the base injector table. Just depends on how much time you have I guess. As for the fuel pump, the stock one can support quite a bit of power. I wouldn't worry about that until you up the boost to 14psi or more and start making over 300whp.
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Old 11-18-2008, 10:10 PM   #103
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Originally Posted by Shock24Z View Post
There is a good chance you will max the stockers. Do a scan and report the IPW values you see. This will tell you if you can get away with it or not.
Thanks! I will have more updates this weekend.
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Old 11-18-2008, 10:18 PM   #104
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Originally Posted by AaronGTR View Post
On 5-6psi... you can get away with stock injectors and even a stock tune, as long as you add the AFPR so that the fuel pressure will go up properly under boost. Many people ran this way for years with the magnacharger kit with no problems. Sure it's not optimal for HP, but you should be safe running this way for a while until you have time to do the rest. If you have HPtuner then you might as well change the injectors though too. That would be the next step anyway and shouldn't take much time (depending on which injectors you got) and getting it running with those is as simple as changing the base injector table. Just depends on how much time you have I guess. As for the fuel pump, the stock one can support quite a bit of power. I wouldn't worry about that until you up the boost to 14psi or more and start making over 300whp.
You are pretty knowledgeable with the input! I appreciate it as well! I wish that I had known a little more about this fact before I made the investment in the injectors and the fuel pump!They were inexpensive ayhow..
I think I can hook up the ADFPR pretty easy as long as the lines have a rubber portion whereby I can bypass the stock unit. Way to go Aaron!
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Old 11-25-2008, 11:11 PM   #105
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Ok, Here are some before and after pics. This is the intake system that I am using while finishing the tubo kit. I simply removed all the lower air box ducting with the exception of the plastic part with the RAM AIR logo.. I used a three inch mandrel bent piece of aluminized pipe and two, three inch silicone connectors attached to a high flow air filter that you can get cheap at autozone! Inside the pipe is one of those funky air turbines that causes air to spin as it enters the manifold. This combo alone nets me about 10 more horses along with the exhaust mods. You can truly feel the power since the air is already cold. It makes a nice sucking noise as you stab the throttle!For those of you going NA, I would highly recommend this dirt cheap option. This would cost less than $50 in parts.

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Old 11-25-2008, 11:19 PM   #106
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These are the pics of the BOV and final intercooling ducting. I welded and painted this assembly yesterday. Yes, that is an ebay knockoff on the BOV. I still need to tap a hole for the air temp sensor. I should be placing this between the MAF and BOV. You should be able to see the connector hanging a little. I decided to route the piping around the battery because in the end it was so much easier than I expected! I will add T-bolt clamps to the final assembly.



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Old 11-25-2008, 11:28 PM   #107
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Now everybody knows that rear turbo guys need all the help possible to get the turbo to spool up faster without killing the engine by going with too small on the turbine AR. I read in the LS1tech.com site about wrapping all the pipes and using stock manifolds. An STS technician highly suggested the use of a turbo blanket to keep additional heat in and spool the turbo faster. I got this one on ebay from New Zeland for around $90. This is what it looks like off the car and on it. I will change the wire ties to stainless once I plumb the turbo ! I hope the .63 AR Garrett should kick in about 300 to 500 RPMS sooner!




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Old 11-25-2008, 11:33 PM   #108
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I am looking into the very, very near future to buy a GT45 turbo with a divided housing for this clever idea: http://www.fullthrottlev6.com/forums...ad.php?t=49067

Some proponents for an alternate method:
http://www.fullthrottlev6.com/forums...ad.php?t=49292

Please check these out . What do you all think?
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Old 11-26-2008, 12:19 PM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3800SII View Post
Ok, Here are some before and after pics. This is the intake system that I am using while finishing the tubo kit. I simply removed all the lower air box ducting with the exception of the plastic part with the RAM AIR logo.. I used a three inch mandrel bent piece of aluminized pipe and two, three inch silicone connectors attached to a high flow air filter that you can get cheap at autozone! Inside the pipe is one of those funky air turbines that causes air to spin as it enters the manifold. This combo alone nets me about 10 more horses along with the exhaust mods. You can truly feel the power since the air is already cold. It makes a nice sucking noise as you stab the throttle!For those of you going NA, I would highly recommend this dirt cheap option. This would cost less than $50 in parts.

Just so you know that air turbine your talking about is a scam and does nothing also that intake is considered a warm air intake and will just suck in all the warm air from the engine bay. A fenderwell intake like the one on mpracing is a true cold air intake and is the only one that will give you any decent performance gains.
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Old 11-26-2008, 02:06 PM   #110
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Just so you know that air turbine your talking about is a scam and does nothing also that intake is considered a warm air intake and will just suck in all the warm air from the engine bay. A fenderwell intake like the one on mpracing is a true cold air intake and is the only one that will give you any decent performance gains.
Umm... I won't go the route of getting another flamesuit, but it does work. I have tested my Firebird with them over and over using a G-Tech unit. They do the same thing as air-raid throttle body spacers. Everyone that has tried them (that I know of) notices the difference. To each his own....

Notice that I said the bottom part of the air cleaner assembly has been removed!
The top part that curves around the battery from the front fasia is still intact. Cold
fresh air is still coming into the engine bay very close to the 3 inch filter. You probably can't see it well, but it is still there. I don't plan on keeping it that way anyhow, but I am STATING that I get more HP with a 3 inch cone filter and intake tubing as opposed to having the stock Ram Air unit and a K&N filter in place. The car accelerates much, much better! I could also easily route some tubing from the filter inlet directly under the front facia if I wanted to.

Thanks for sharing though!
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Old 11-26-2008, 10:22 PM   #111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3800SII View Post
I am looking into the very, very near future to buy a GT45 turbo with a divided housing for this clever idea: http://www.fullthrottlev6.com/forums...ad.php?t=49067

Some proponents for an alternate method:
http://www.fullthrottlev6.com/forums...ad.php?t=49292

Please check these out . What do you all think?
That's very interesting. Never heard of it before. The theory is good for sure and I'd definately like to see it in action... It would be easy to confirm the results as well.

But for that price I would probably look to have a flange and butterfly plate machined locally and then just purchase a cheap stock wastegate actuator to open/close it.

And regarding the the GT45... you have some big plans eh?
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Old 11-27-2008, 11:26 AM   #112
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That's very interesting. Never heard of it before. The theory is good for sure and I'd definately like to see it in action... It would be easy to confirm the results as well.

But for that price I would probably look to have a flange and butterfly plate machined locally and then just purchase a cheap stock wastegate actuator to open/close it.

And regarding the the GT45... you have some big plans eh?
Not really, what I am trying to accomplish is getting the rearmount turbo system to spool quickly and have excellent topend. I am arguing that you can get the same efficiency as a front mount by using some common sense equipment (Stock exhaust manifold, wapped exhaust, turbo blanket). I had debated getting a ball bearing unit, but I could not justify the cost. The split housing GT45 with a .63 AR
will do the trick fine for the quick spool valve.

BTW, 1+ ON THE FLANGE AND BUTTERFLY PLATE TO THE MACHINE SHOP!!!!
I CAN MAKE THIS THING FOR CHEAP!
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Old 11-27-2008, 03:23 PM   #113
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With a compressor like that, I don't think topend will be an issue. It would make for an impressive powerband if you spooled it quickly.
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Old 11-27-2008, 04:30 PM   #114
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whats the Horsepower in a box! thing?
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Old 11-27-2008, 05:04 PM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3800SII View Post
I had debated getting a ball bearing unit, but I could not justify the cost. The split housing GT45 with a .63 AR
will do the trick fine for the quick spool valve.



That's my opinion on not going ballbearing.
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Old 11-27-2008, 05:35 PM   #116
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That's my opinion on not going ballbearing.
x2

You will need all the help you can get spooling a rear mount T4.
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Old 11-27-2008, 09:00 PM   #117
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That's my opinion on not going ballbearing.

Yeah, yeah, yeah! I know, and I already told you that I was pretty dammned cheap!

I would like to see somebody slap a BB back there and dyno it.
I think that it would spool so quick that you could not tell the difference in power
between the front mount or rear mount....
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Old 11-27-2008, 09:10 PM   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shock24Z View Post
x2

You will need all the help you can get spooling a rear mount T4.
No, it will be a T3 with a divided turbine housing.

Now please keep in mind that a standard Garrett with a .63 on the hot side was on my Firebird 3800 motor. I was getting boost by about 3500 RPMS without wrapping the exhaust or the turbo blanket. Both 3800 and 3400 have similar displacement, and the turbos work well up front and out back. My main goal is to have full boost (with the quick spool valve and GT45 turbo) by about 2500 and keep power all the way up to 6000 without sacrificing the top end.

This is stuff that I am just throwing out there for now. We will wait and see how it
turns out after I finish this project first.
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Old 11-27-2008, 09:12 PM   #119
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Quote:
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whats the Horsepower in a box! thing?
I had this tuning device left over from my Firebird. It plugs into your MAF Sensor and help adjust air/fuel curves.
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Old 11-28-2008, 08:19 AM   #120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cardude007617 View Post
whats the Horsepower in a box! thing?

It's a MAF translator. Old style tuning device that basically intercepts the MAF signal and modifies it to trick the pcm into adding more or less fuel. It works as a primitive tuning tool, but isn't the ideal way to adjust fueling compared to actually tuning the pcm, and it can't compensate for different injector sizes.
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