Changing UIM - Page 2

Jbrinda18 · 01-05-2009, 06:10 PM

has anyone actually done this? cause i'm doin it now and the alternater is on the same bolt as the UIM so i can't get it off, this is seemin like a lot more work than it should be...

Jbrinda18 · 01-05-2009, 06:29 PM

and do i have to get a bypass for the coolant? because i think it flows throught the stock tb and it looks like the new one i got doesn't have anywhere for it to go through

Grandamgtblk99 · 01-05-2009, 07:20 PM

Just remove the alternator. Its easy. like 3 bolts and pull off. Hardest part is putting it back on, but i can do it in like 5 minutes.

AaronGTR · 01-05-2009, 08:10 PM

Uh... huh? Alternator? No idea what you are talking about man, my UIM comes off just fine without removing the alternator.

As for the coolant bypass... yes, the new billet TB's do not come with a coolant hook up. All you need is a short piece of rubber tubing to loop between the two nipples coming off of the heater pipe. That replaces the two short rubber pieces that went to the stock TB, and it will keep the system sealed and is cheap and easy.

Jbrinda18 · 01-05-2009, 09:58 PM

Ok everythings done. i started my car and the engine's movin quite a bit, and its not idling smoothly at all, rpms are jumping around anywhere from 1500 to 500. is this temperary because i just changed things?

i did however manage to damage the small vaccuum line that goes from the fuel rail to the thing in the back of the UIM, could that be whats causing this?

Grandamgtblk99 · 01-05-2009, 10:02 PM

yea, that goes to your map sensor I believe, and thats very important.

Jbrinda18 · 01-05-2009, 10:03 PM

so i can't drive it?

Grandamgtblk99 · 01-06-2009, 12:26 AM

If its the tube Im thinking of, its the tube to the fuel pressure regulator And Im not 100% sure whatll happen, but youd either run really rich or really lean im guess.

alerored04 · 01-06-2009, 04:51 PM

That is the MAP sensor back there. Operates somewhat like the MAF and is as important. Repair that vacuum line and see if it runs better.

AaronGTR · 01-06-2009, 07:52 PM

There is no vacuum line the comes from the fuel rail... there is one that goes from the front corner of the UIM to the fuel pressure regulator. The one in the back has a T in it and goes to the MAP sensor and something else. Damaging either one of those will make your rpm jump like that. Classic sign of a vacuum leak, plus it will mess up the signal to either of those components. I advise fixing that line before driving it if at all possible, and as soon as possible.

Jbrinda18 · 01-06-2009, 08:13 PM

i'm dropping it off at a shop tomorrow morning, ya you're right its the FPR. thanks for the help guys, i'll be donating to the site cause its definately worth it.

alerored04 · 01-07-2009, 05:28 PM

Why take it in to repair a vacuum line? All you need to do is tape it (ghetto i know) or replace with a different hose. Easy stuff.

Jbrinda18 · 01-07-2009, 08:29 PM

i did the best repair i could on the little vaccuum line but it was still havin problems. turns out the EGR valve had a major leak :\ don't know how that happened but its taken care of now, runnin great, pretty noticable gains from the TB

PhantomLover007 · 04-26-2009, 11:25 AM

OK. So I'm changing out my UIM, TB, and MAF tomorrow. I'm kinda tired of the stuff that I bought from Timka sitting waiting for the LIM to go out..

. Everything is 65mm. I'm going to send the spare LIM that I have in to Mark and get the ported on later.

1. I've already got a FelPro gasket for the UIM. Will I need to trim this?

2. I've got to go get a TB gasket also. Am I gonna have to get a spacer, too? I know I'm gonna have to trim the gasket.

3. I need to do a coolant bypass w/ the TCE billet TB from what I gather. Can I pick these up from AutoZone and what size hosing do I need?

GrandAmGTTT · 04-26-2009, 04:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jbrinda18

i did the best repair i could on the little vaccuum line but it was still havin problems. turns out the EGR valve had a major leak :\ don't know how that happened but its taken care of now, runnin great, pretty noticable gains from the TB

you should get the EGR delete kit, its kinda a pain in the ass to do though

, and i need to get my LIM ported to match my upper

PhantomLover007 · 04-26-2009, 08:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PhantomLover007

OK. So I'm changing out my UIM, TB, and MAF tomorrow. I'm kinda tired of the stuff that I bought from Timka sitting waiting for the LIM to go out..

. Everything is 65mm. I'm going to send the spare LIM that I have in to Mark and get the ported on later.

1. I've already got a FelPro gasket for the UIM. Will I need to trim this?

2. I've got to go get a TB gasket also. Am I gonna have to get a spacer, too? I know I'm gonna have to trim the gasket.

3. I need to do a coolant bypass w/ the TCE billet TB from what I gather. Can I pick these up from AutoZone and what size hosing do I need?

No one?

stewartfn18 · 04-26-2009, 09:11 PM

1. no the UIM is gasket matched meaning the sizes of the holes are stock,but the runners are ported.

2. no spacer needed

3. get a piece of heater tubing from autozone, i forgot what size though. it relativily cheap.

PhantomLover007 · 04-26-2009, 09:17 PM

Cool. Thanks David. I wantd to make sure.

Not to be a dumbass, but what are the runners?

PhantomLover007 · 04-27-2009, 03:14 PM

OK. I guess here's what a simple coolant bypass hose is. It took this OLD brain a bit to figure out. Any of you guys smell smoke???

GrandAmGTTT · 04-27-2009, 03:28 PM

Ya the coolant bypass is the easiest thing in the world

. I just did mine today since i finally got my 65mm TB from Mark today

which i def. notice a huge differ. with the ported UIM and 65mm TB. Now to wire up the nitrous and tune my PCM oh and put my LS1 MAF on and tune it for that. And i'm putting new motor mounts on bc mine are shot and the motor moves when i put it into gear

01-05-2009, 07:20 PM	#23
Grandamgtblk99 Burgee AKA: Allen Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Orange, Tx Age: 39 Posts: 787 Vehicle: 1999 Grand Am Gt	Just remove the alternator. Its easy. like 3 bolts and pull off. Hardest part is putting it back on, but i can do it in like 5 minutes. __________________ 1999 Sc/t turbo.

01-05-2009, 08:10 PM	#24
AaronGTR BlingWithBallz AKA: Aaron Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Detroit area, MI Age: 43 Posts: 12,254 Vehicle: 2000 Grand Am GT1 2dr	Uh... huh? Alternator? No idea what you are talking about man, my UIM comes off just fine without removing the alternator. As for the coolant bypass... yes, the new billet TB's do not come with a coolant hook up. All you need is a short piece of rubber tubing to loop between the two nipples coming off of the heater pipe. That replaces the two short rubber pieces that went to the stock TB, and it will keep the system sealed and is cheap and easy. __________________ The few, the proud, the boosted! 13.788 @ 103.73 mph (3/2011) 320 whp and 300 ft/lbs torque. (3/2011) See it here. the total package.

01-05-2009, 10:02 PM	#26
Grandamgtblk99 Burgee AKA: Allen Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Orange, Tx Age: 39 Posts: 787 Vehicle: 1999 Grand Am Gt	yea, that goes to your map sensor I believe, and thats very important. __________________ 1999 Sc/t turbo.

01-06-2009, 12:26 AM	#28
Grandamgtblk99 Burgee AKA: Allen Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Orange, Tx Age: 39 Posts: 787 Vehicle: 1999 Grand Am Gt	If its the tube Im thinking of, its the tube to the fuel pressure regulator And Im not 100% sure whatll happen, but youd either run really rich or really lean im guess. __________________ 1999 Sc/t turbo.

01-06-2009, 04:51 PM	#29
alerored04 GAGT - Member AKA: Matt Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: New Prague, MN Age: 35 Posts: 702 Vehicle: 2001 Oldmobile Alero	That is the MAP sensor back there. Operates somewhat like the MAF and is as important. Repair that vacuum line and see if it runs better. __________________ Lots of mods cost lots of $$ http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2598719/1

01-05-2009, 06:10 PM	#21
Jbrinda18 GAGT - Member AKA: John Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Coon Rapids, MN Posts: 200 Vehicle: 2004 Grand Am GT1	has anyone actually done this? cause i'm doin it now and the alternater is on the same bolt as the UIM so i can't get it off, this is seemin like a lot more work than it should be...

01-05-2009, 06:29 PM	#22
Jbrinda18 GAGT - Member AKA: John Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Coon Rapids, MN Posts: 200 Vehicle: 2004 Grand Am GT1	and do i have to get a bypass for the coolant? because i think it flows throught the stock tb and it looks like the new one i got doesn't have anywhere for it to go through

01-05-2009, 09:58 PM	#25
Jbrinda18 GAGT - Member AKA: John Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Coon Rapids, MN Posts: 200 Vehicle: 2004 Grand Am GT1	Ok everythings done. i started my car and the engine's movin quite a bit, and its not idling smoothly at all, rpms are jumping around anywhere from 1500 to 500. is this temperary because i just changed things? i did however manage to damage the small vaccuum line that goes from the fuel rail to the thing in the back of the UIM, could that be whats causing this?

01-05-2009, 10:03 PM	#27
Jbrinda18 GAGT - Member AKA: John Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Coon Rapids, MN Posts: 200 Vehicle: 2004 Grand Am GT1	so i can't drive it?

01-06-2009, 07:52 PM	#30
AaronGTR BlingWithBallz AKA: Aaron Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Detroit area, MI Age: 43 Posts: 12,254 Vehicle: 2000 Grand Am GT1 2dr	There is no vacuum line the comes from the fuel rail... there is one that goes from the front corner of the UIM to the fuel pressure regulator. The one in the back has a T in it and goes to the MAP sensor and something else. Damaging either one of those will make your rpm jump like that. Classic sign of a vacuum leak, plus it will mess up the signal to either of those components. I advise fixing that line before driving it if at all possible, and as soon as possible. __________________ The few, the proud, the boosted! 13.788 @ 103.73 mph (3/2011) 320 whp and 300 ft/lbs torque. (3/2011) See it here. the total package.

01-06-2009, 08:13 PM	#31
Jbrinda18 GAGT - Member AKA: John Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Coon Rapids, MN Posts: 200 Vehicle: 2004 Grand Am GT1	i'm dropping it off at a shop tomorrow morning, ya you're right its the FPR. thanks for the help guys, i'll be donating to the site cause its definately worth it.

01-07-2009, 05:28 PM	#32
alerored04 GAGT - Member AKA: Matt Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: New Prague, MN Age: 35 Posts: 702 Vehicle: 2001 Oldmobile Alero	Why take it in to repair a vacuum line? All you need to do is tape it (ghetto i know) or replace with a different hose. Easy stuff. __________________ Lots of mods cost lots of $$ http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2598719/1

01-07-2009, 08:29 PM	#33
Jbrinda18 GAGT - Member AKA: John Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Coon Rapids, MN Posts: 200 Vehicle: 2004 Grand Am GT1	i did the best repair i could on the little vaccuum line but it was still havin problems. turns out the EGR valve had a major leak :\ don't know how that happened but its taken care of now, runnin great, pretty noticable gains from the TB

04-26-2009, 09:11 PM	#37
stewartfn18 GAGT - Senior Member AKA: David Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Oldsmar,FL Age: 32 Posts: 2,049 Vehicle: 04 vette, 14 R6	1. no the UIM is gasket matched meaning the sizes of the holes are stock,but the runners are ported. 2. no spacer needed 3. get a piece of heater tubing from autozone, i forgot what size though. it relativily cheap. __________________ MODS: Not Enough

04-27-2009, 03:28 PM	#40
GrandAmGTTT Pontiac Club Toledo AKA: Josh Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Temperance, Michigan Posts: 390 Vehicle: 1999 Grand Am GT sedan	Ya the coolant bypass is the easiest thing in the world . I just did mine today since i finally got my 65mm TB from Mark today which i def. notice a huge differ. with the ported UIM and 65mm TB. Now to wire up the nitrous and tune my PCM oh and put my LS1 MAF on and tune it for that. And i'm putting new motor mounts on bc mine are shot and the motor moves when i put it into gear __________________ Pontiac Fuel For Your Soul!! Pontiac Club of Toledo- President Ohio Northern University Automotive Club- Vice President Flowmaster 80, MDS 8.5mm wires, NGK plugs, LS1 MAF, 65mm TCE TB, MPracing p&p UIM, EGR delete, CAI, heat shield tape, Custom tuned by Chris , ZEX wet kit, ac delete, Front+Rear drilled/slotted rotors, Eibach springs, Front+Rear strut bars, ported and matched 3500 UIM and 3400 LIM, Powder coated Upper/Lower Intake manifolds and valve covers

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