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Old 05-10-2009, 09:49 AM   #41
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it look like he had me by a car and a half.. which is prolbably ideal 1 second.
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Old 05-10-2009, 10:15 AM   #42
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it look like he had me by a car and a half.. which is prolbably ideal 1 second.
A car and a half at that speed is like .2 seconds
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Old 05-10-2009, 10:56 AM   #43
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Like everyone else said, your 60' needs to come way down. Honesly, 2/3 of the race is getting out of the hole, the car will be fine on its own the rest of the way down the track. Every tenth you can cut off your 60' theoretically is about .2 off your quarter mile.

Your first run you trapped 103, my truck only traps 104-105 but Im about 1.5 seconds faster than you. Your 60's are 2.4ish and mine are 1.7's. thats .7 difference out of the hole, which is around 1.4 at the end of the run. You dont have anywhere near the power off of the line, but that just shows you how much the first 60' matters.

Put in a higher stall torque converter so you can spool the turbo and be into the powerband more, you will need a built trans if you dont have one, and a set of DRs or slicks to get it to hook. I think the best 60' times you will see out of that car are some mid 1.8s.

You have a low 13 second car with some improvement to the 60' times, and a high 12 second car with some more power as well.
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Old 05-10-2009, 03:55 PM   #44
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shoot you can get 1.6 in these cars if you set it up right.
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Old 05-10-2009, 05:31 PM   #45
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no you didn't.......

you were still a full second behind.
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Old 05-10-2009, 10:39 PM   #46
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I'm going to replace valve springs and valves, ill check to see how everything else looks whether or not i gotta order more stuff... I definatly for sure want low 13s... i think i could squeek it out no problem, my 60 foots were terrible... I want to get it done quick so i can steal that 12s spot. i'm starting to think my manifold flange on the crossover in the back is warped, anyway i can really check that...?
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Old 05-10-2009, 10:41 PM   #47
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oh and to add to that... where the heck am i suppose to mount my battery tray?? they said i couldnt mount it to the trunk... it was sheet metal.. the said it had to be mounted to subframe or frame... at the track.. but they passed me they just said i had to have it fixed for next time.
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Old 05-11-2009, 12:26 AM   #48
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Old 05-11-2009, 01:06 AM   #49
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Yes... Who the hell else has a turbo grand am. LOL they post cards on the wall of what cars need to pass next time.
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Old 05-11-2009, 09:42 AM   #50
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Quote:
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Yes... Who the hell else has a turbo grand am. LOL they post cards on the wall of what cars need to pass next time.
Who the hell pays attention to a Grand am, regardless of induction method? (At least the people that work at a track who see beefed up car after beefed up car)
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Old 05-11-2009, 01:54 PM   #51
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oh and to add to that... where the heck am i suppose to mount my battery tray?? they said i couldnt mount it to the trunk... it was sheet metal.. the said it had to be mounted to subframe or frame... at the track.. but they passed me they just said i had to have it fixed for next time.
Do they know that it is a uni-body car and there IS NO frame in the back, technically speaking?

Where is your battery tray at? And is it a tray or a box?

Technically if you mount it in the trunk, you can't use just a battery tray. It has to be in a box because there is no firewall between the battery and passenger compartment, and if the battery where to get punctured or explode, they want the acid and gasses to be contained.

I have an aluminum battery box from summit racing and it's just the right size to get the battery in, and fit back in the passenger side back corner (behind the inner fender arch). If you look underneath the car, there is a big rectangular reinforcement frame rail welded to the uni-body under that corner. I drilled my holes for the bolts that hold down the box and the battery right through that rail and put a couple beefy washers and nuts on the bottom. That sucker isn't going anywhere, and I've never had any issues with tech people.
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Old 05-11-2009, 01:55 PM   #52
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just use a 50 shot out of the hole until the tranny is really shot......
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Old 05-11-2009, 03:06 PM   #53
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Do they know that it is a uni-body car and there IS NO frame in the back, technically speaking?

Where is your battery tray at? And is it a tray or a box?

Technically if you mount it in the trunk, you can't use just a battery tray. It has to be in a box because there is no firewall between the battery and passenger compartment, and if the battery where to get punctured or explode, they want the acid and gasses to be contained.

I have an aluminum battery box from summit racing and it's just the right size to get the battery in, and fit back in the passenger side back corner (behind the inner fender arch). If you look underneath the car, there is a big rectangular reinforcement frame rail welded to the uni-body under that corner. I drilled my holes for the bolts that hold down the box and the battery right through that rail and put a couple beefy washers and nuts on the bottom. That sucker isn't going anywhere, and I've never had any issues with tech people.
i have it same place you do.. but i have a tray.. they said i needed a box.
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Old 05-11-2009, 03:09 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zukiracer19 View Post
I'm going to replace valve springs and valves, ill check to see how everything else looks whether or not i gotta order more stuff... I definatly for sure want low 13s... i think i could squeek it out no problem, my 60 foots were terrible... I want to get it done quick so i can steal that 12s spot. i'm starting to think my manifold flange on the crossover in the back is warped, anyway i can really check that...?
yes with a straightedge, or a perfectly flat surface or take it to a machine shop to have them mill it down.
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Old 05-11-2009, 03:18 PM   #55
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Quote:
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i have it same place you do.. but i have a tray.. they said i needed a box.
Yes you have to have a box, not a tray. as previously stated.

If you want another alternative, get a smaller battery, and mount it underneath your headlamp.

Here's an NHRA legal box.

http://www.rpmoutlet.com/musv6batt.htm

and here's a writeup on an NHRA approved solution

http://my.prostreetonline.com/forums...php?t-2276.htm


because of all this ****, I'd just keep the battery up front. a good reason also to keep the battery up front is for you drag racers. More weight over the front wheels.
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Old 05-11-2009, 04:53 PM   #56
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^This is true. If you are focusing on drag racing, keeping the battery up front would give you less weight shift and better traction. I put mine in the back corner on purpose because that is the furthest away diagonally from where my body weight is, and I wanted my car more balanced for handling.
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Old 05-11-2009, 05:02 PM   #57
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very sweet, but how no room.. what do you mean underneath my headlamp.. no room??? also where can i get a effecient torque converter for my car for drag?
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Old 05-11-2009, 11:16 PM   #58
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Quote:
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very sweet, but how no room.. what do you mean underneath my headlamp.. no room??? also where can i get a effecient torque converter for my car for drag?
Just string along a ****load of AAA's.
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Old 05-12-2009, 07:12 AM   #59
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Just string along a ****load of AAA's.
id go with 9 volts ;D
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Old 05-12-2009, 05:40 PM   #60
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anyone know where i can get a decent stall torque converter at?
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