Alpine Type-S 4x6 & 6x9 worthy upgrade?

[rabbitt1100]

I dont know too much about audio details to accurately compare what is better for the buck, but I preffer to have speakers that I can get rid of the ugly as grill that is covering them along with quality upgrade...

Im looking to purchase the Alpine Type-S 4x9 SPS-409 & Alpine Type-S 6x9 SPS-609...

Is this going to be an upgrade from the stock speakers? Or is it a waste of money?

Thanks.

[thormxkid]

put 5 1/4's or 6 1/2's up front, you'll just need a 1 inch spacer...

that'll be better then 4x6's

[burgett2103]

for the 6x9's do the type r's instead of the type s's

[thormxkid]

why not do fronts r types then and cheap out on the backs since there for passangers anyways

[oldinstaller]

Before you sink all this money into speakers, check for the following that is currently in your car...
Front speakers in the doors-if you do have the separate tweeters in the top corners behind your side mirrors, you may want to replace the door speakers with separates since you currently have separates in the door. You can go with a bigger main speaker in the main door area than a 4 x 6 but will need to use an adaptor to mount either a 5 1/4 or 6 1/2 mid in the door.
Rear deck speakers- do the factory speakers have 2 or 4 wires connected to them currently? If its 4 wires, you do have a monsoon amp that is designed to power the rear speakers in a bi-amp application. If you are going to replace your rear speakers and you do have the monsoon amp, you are best off bypassing the amp and run power straight to the speakers. Otherwise, you are going to need to buy bi-amp speakers that have separate connections for the main speaker and the mid/tweeter.
If you did your research, then the answer is yes, go ahead and replace your speakers. It will give you much better sound and will allow you upgrade your system more and more as time goes by.
Name brand speakers are always your best choice but please listen to them at any stereo store to hear just how they sound so that way you are sure that is what you want.
Additional information on speaker replacement is listed on several postings over the past 6 or 7 years now so feel free to do a search and read what others have done and what worked for everyone else.
Good luck

[IanGT99]

Replacing your stock speakers with stock-sized speakers will certainly be a good upgrade, but not the best you can do. As oldinstaller said, look into a good component system for the front. fabbing in 5.25's in the front doors and using a separate tweeter is probably the best combination of cost to ease of install. The rear 6x9's (if you're running a sub) are simply for fill. Getting a somewhat inexpensive set will suffice. However, if you're not running a sub and using the 6x9's for your bass, you should look for a pair that offers good low-end extension in the frequency range (something that can hit below 40Hz). The mids and tweets won't matter in them because your fronts will take care of the higher frequencies. And DEFINITELY bypass the stock amp in order to send full frequency ranges and to the new rears.

Alpine makes a great set of speakers. Also look into Infinity. Lots of people say the highs are too bright in their component sets, but the tweeter gain is adjustable and I personally like the sound of them. For a good set of Alpine of Infinity components, expect to pay between $150 and $200. There are better ones, but they're more expensive. The 6x9's can be upwards of $200 (no sub) or around $100 or so (with sub).

[RPO3]

This is me...

[thormxkid]

Don't buy comp's just to run the tweeters in the stock location...they sound like s*** there. The tweeter isn't sappost to be any futher then 30 cms from the woofer inless you got a deck that'll do time aignment.

[Metallman56]

imo if you want any type of bass dont get alpine. there highs and lows sounds better then stock, but the bass simply isnt there. the 4x6s will sound better then stock, if you keep the bass away from them like you should.

[IanGT99]

Originally Posted by thormxkid

Don't buy comp's just to run the tweeters in the stock location...they sound like s*** there. The tweeter isn't sappost to be any futher then 30 cms from the woofer inless you got a deck that'll do time aignment.

That's another thing. They should be mounted on the door panel pretty close to the woofer. There are pics everywhere on here of people who have done this. This is the best way to achieve accurate sound, but if you're only trying to get slightly better sound than stock (and not putting together a professional system), stock location is ok IMO.

[rabbitt1100]

I am still looking around to see what I will be doing for brand and specifics on the speakers I choose, but I do plan to pick up either the 5.25 or 6.5 up front. Replacing the rears and bypassing the monsoon amp.

I currently have a Alpine Type-R 12" Sub, Memphis 1000D Amp & Cap. The main speekers in the car are going to be used for highs and mids only, no bass being pushed through them.

I will look around more in depth to see if I can figure it out on my own first, but what were you explaining about the tweeter location? I need to move them? Add more?
I have already repalced the front tweeters with a set of Bose and plan to add 2 in the back, or should i put them elsewhere?

[IanGT99]

The tweeters should be placed as close to the 5.25/6.5 drivers as possible. In the stock locations, the signal takes a split second longer to get to the tweeters, and there is a bit of a lag in the actual sound reproduction as compared to the woofers. You tend not to hear this as much with the stock speakers, but if you replace them with higher quality ones you'll be able to pick it out if you listen for it.

The component sets you'll find for the fronts consist of a standalone woofer, a crossover system (little box-looking thing), and separate tweeters. You can limit the lower frequencies going to the tweeters by wiring in a specific resistor (stock system), but the crossover does MUCH better at controlling which frequencies go to which driver. If you're thinking of going with a component system, I would suggest replacing your Bose tweets. The ones that come with the component systems are matched to the drivers and would sound much better when mated with them. I'm sure you could sell the Bose tweets or find better use for them elsewhere. Adding tweeters in the rear deck is pointless IMO. Some guys don't even run rear speakers and focus all the soundstage on the front speakers. The rears are just for fill. I personally run rears just for a little help in the midbass range because I'm running 4x6's for my fronts.

If I were you, I'd just get a really good set of components for the front, a fairly inexpensive set of 6x9's for the rear (stock amp bypassed), and your existing sub and amp. I'm guessing you're not running the stock head unit? What are you using for your source? The tuning of an aftermarket HU has EVERYTHING to do with how your system sounds. I've seen guys with top-notch equipment that have no idea how to tune and it sounds like crap.

[rabbitt1100]

I am using a relatively inexpensive HU, Pioneer EEQ Mosfet 50w x4. I was looking at another isntall and really liked the look of the components in the front and the tweeters were installed in the vynil door stripe. I plan to do that and eliminate the Bose tweeters. Down the road I do plan to upgrade to a in-dash dvd / navigation system but waiting on the finances for that.

Do i really need to worry about stripping my entire door down, re-sealing, wiring and adding dynomat and all that stuff? Or will it suffice as is? I already picked up a set of the 5.25 mounting plates for $11.00 shipped, and looking more at the Alpine Type-S components (due to financial crunch at the moment)... Is that going to be worth the upgrade over stock? And do I need an additinal Amplifier for the components?

Also, for the 6x9's in the back, is the type-s still ok that they will be a plug & play swap? (along with removing the monsoon amp)...?

Thank you for all your help guys. (Also going to ready the stickys right now about all this stuff to try and learn/understand more of this stuff

[oldinstaller]

The front stage speaker application sounds good. Go with it. The rest of your system choices will work for the time being.
Doing the sound deadening is purely your own choice. It does make a difference in the long run and helps keep unwanted noise out from your system. It is very time and labor consuming not taking into account the cost of deadening material.
Now...adding another amp for the front and rear speakers to compliment your sub bass is a very good choice. Try to keep the power level at the same as your sub amp if possible.(unless the power is too much for your speakers).
You are on the right track and have the support of the members of this forum backing up your decisions.
Just ask and we can help you through it all.
Good luck.

[aiixon]

okay the one thing i regret not doing after i got my system installed, and i plan on doing later, is investing in nice amps. I strongly suggest paying more for your amp then your speakers themselves. also deadening is really important i have a lot of rattling from my sub and even my front speakers.

[thormxkid]

if i were to pick aftermarket speaker vs sound deaden the doors i would pick deadening the door and i speak from experience because i actually took the time to do so...it is a night and day diff. in mid bass when done the right way.

[rocketfast123]

Originally Posted by RPO3

This is me...

i got the same 4x6.........I should have move up to 6" ones.

[rabbitt1100]

I got first dibs on a set of the Alpine Type-S 6x9's in the "Stuff For Sale" section hopefully. I was first to scream i wanted them anyways, . Hopefully he will let me get them for a decent price.

Couple things I need to get straight... 5.25 components up front, 6x9's in the back, I need a 4 channel amp for these speakers? And for the fronts it will wire into the crossover box and then send applicable signal to the tweeter and 5.25 as needed... right? Now currently the speakers run up to my HU in that harness in the back, do I need to now run a line from the HU to the new amp and bypass all of the speaker to HU lines?

Sorry for so many questions, just want to make sure I do this stuff right the first time, or at least as close to right as I can do on my own.

[aiixon]

here's a little diagram i just drew up to help you out!!



**** its kinda small but w/e

[rabbitt1100]

Thats perfect, thank you. Confirmes that I was correct on how I assumed it would go.

What guage wire would you recomend when runnign from above locations? Also keep in mind I do already have a Memphis 1000D, 1 Farad Cap & 12" Alpine Type-R... Any idea off hand how that will all fit in to play?