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Old 06-14-2009, 12:31 AM   #21
cardude007617
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dunno about the mm part but here are some more i found:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CAMBE...Q5fAccessories

and:
http://shop.ebay.com/items/__grand-a...&_sop=15&_sc=1

ebay would prbly be less after shipping is figured in at other online stores
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Old 06-14-2009, 01:02 AM   #22
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anytime u lower your car you need to install a camber kit. ebay usally has some nice kits on there relatively cheap.

balanceing is a huge factor overlooked alot. if you by a set of tires and rims already mounted you should take them and have the alighnment checked b4 putting them on.

i personally like kuhmo tires the best. i had alittle vibration with my stockers on my sebring and when i bought the rims i mounted and balanced mine out at work to exact zero and it has no more vibration.

alot of shops will call it good anywhere from +.3 to -.3.
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Old 06-14-2009, 08:02 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by chuckclose1 View Post
anytime u lower your car you need to install a camber kit. ebay usally has some nice kits on there relatively cheap.

eh, wrong. It depends on how much you lower the car. With eibachs there is enough stock adjustment they can correct the camber and you don't need a camber kit. They also don't make a camber kit that is safe and effective either, which is one reason I recommend eibachs over other springs that lower the car further. And there are other reasons.
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Old 06-14-2009, 11:33 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by AaronGTR View Post
eh, wrong. It depends on how much you lower the car. With eibachs there is enough stock adjustment they can correct the camber and you don't need a camber kit. They also don't make a camber kit that is safe and effective either, which is one reason I recommend eibachs over other springs that lower the car further. And there are other reasons.
ok im not gonna jac this thread and get into a debate over this. but maybe i should of said 90% of the time the 10% being for the ppl that use stock rims and only do less then a 1.5 inch drop which is rare.

most ppl that drop there cars have bigger rims with low profile tires so its thrown out already just with the wheels after lowering it its way out. all cars adjust out differently but we had to install camber kits on almost every car lowered to adjust them out.

as for not being safe never heard of a incedent where it has not been safe either
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Old 06-15-2009, 04:16 PM   #25
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ok im not gonna jac this thread and get into a debate over this. but maybe i should of said 90% of the time the 10% being for the ppl that use stock rims and only do less then a 1.5 inch drop which is rare.

most ppl that drop there cars have bigger rims with low profile tires so its thrown out already just with the wheels after lowering it its way out. all cars adjust out differently but we had to install camber kits on almost every car lowered to adjust them out.

as for not being safe never heard of a incedent where it has not been safe either
Changing rims and tires will not affect your camber either if the car isn't lowered. If you have a lower profile tire with less sidewall flex and you lower the car without correcting the camber, then yes that can make them wear faster than it would with a stock size tire.

As for the problems with camber bolts, I've posted the info here dozens of times already and I'm getting tired of repeating myself. Here ya go rear camber kit
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Old 06-15-2009, 09:27 PM   #26
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I agree with the "bolts have to be thinner" and "not the optimal way to do it" and even that "they could shift if not properly installed" but I will say that SCCA rules and regulations states that they are ok to run for competition. The SCCA is quite anal retentive and a number of guys I know have been running on them without issue...in conditions FAR exceeding anything you will see on the street. I have been running them as well in my last number of Solo2 events and even my Spring Mountain Motorsports day.

I agree that some people don't need them and that other routes(when possible or available) are the way to go...but I can attest to them working well for me giving me the slight negative camber I need without issue.

Chris
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Old 06-16-2009, 04:13 PM   #27
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Changing rims and tires will not affect your camber either if the car isn't lowered. If you have a lower profile tire with less sidewall flex and you lower the car without correcting the camber, then yes that can make them wear faster than it would with a stock size tire.[/url]
are you really serious? you think changing the original hight of the car dont effect the camber.

any time u change the stock ride hight your camber is effected period. the cars are designed to ride at a certain height. even at the dealerships when you by the upgraded wheel package if it didnt come from the factory with it and they do the upgrade there they do a 4 wheel alighnment on it.

another example if you have stock 16's with 65 series tires on it, thats aroung 5-6"side walls. if you go up to 18's with 35 series tires thats only around 3-3 1/2"" sidewalls
even with gaining 1" of rim you still lost around 2" of sidewall lowering the car around 1" = alighnment out. all cars and wheel sizes and wheel upgrades are diff so some ppl might not notice much but others ride quality gets terrible just from changing rims

just because you you can adjust the camber enough that there is no real vibration or bad ride quality dosent mean it was adjusted all the out to where your tire wear will be completely even.

now with this said there is a correct aspect ratio for upsizeing rims to not adjust ride hight, but most ppl buy the rims and tires they think looks good and pay no attension to stay in the correct ratio.

thats all i am going to say on this anyone who dont beleive me google it and see the million debates on this issue thats on the web. ppl trying to sell rims lean towards it not being true where ppl who actually work in the auto industry lean towards it being fact
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Old 06-17-2009, 11:48 AM   #28
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are you really serious? you think changing the original hight of the car dont effect the camber.

any time u change the stock ride hight your camber is effected period. the cars are designed to ride at a certain height. even at the dealerships when you by the upgraded wheel package if it didnt come from the factory with it and they do the upgrade there they do a 4 wheel alighnment on it.

another example if you have stock 16's with 65 series tires on it, thats aroung 5-6"side walls. if you go up to 18's with 35 series tires thats only around 3-3 1/2"" sidewalls
even with gaining 1" of rim you still lost around 2" of sidewall lowering the car around 1" = alighnment out. all cars and wheel sizes and wheel upgrades are diff so some ppl might not notice much but others ride quality gets terrible just from changing rims
Read much? I said changing rims and tires won't affect the camber if the car isn't lowered.

Stock wheel/tire is a 16x6.5" wheel with a 225/50-16. NOT a 65 series sidewall. Most people on here upsize rims and tires trying to keep close to the original diameter so they don't throw the speedo off too much because most people don't have access to a tuner to program for tire size changes. The difference in diameter between a 225/50-16 and a 225/40-18 is about 2 tenths of an inch. Thats hardly going to make a big difference in camber.


oh and btw, the last time I had my alignment done was at the shop my dad works at and they have the latest alignment rack. I got complete print outs of before and after specs, and they WHERE able to get the camber back within factory allowable specs. Not just even to eliminate vibration or pulling issues, so there wouldn't be any tire wear issues. That was with eibach pro-kit springs and kyb gr2 struts, 17x7" wheels, and 225/45-17 tires.
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Last edited by AaronGTR; 06-17-2009 at 05:44 PM.
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Old 06-26-2009, 11:16 PM   #29
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Well a bit of an update and not a good one im afraid.

I got 2 different tires to put on the car, in place of the 2 front ones that were completely gone.
I seen one was low on air so I stopped in to fill it and when I did the air came rushing right back out of the valve stem.
I took the spare out and drove back to the shop that mounted the tires they put a new valve stem in and checked the rest. That valve stem was so weather cracked that it almost split in half.
That was only a few months old and 3 of them months was sitting in my basement so How Fvcking old were those tires? Maybe why they went so fast.
I checked the tires that I still have on the car, after only a couple hundred miles since the alignment they are wearing out too. not as fast nor quite as bad but still visible wear in that few miles is pretty bad.
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