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Old 06-19-2009, 08:03 PM   #161
99gav6
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Awesome job man. Glad to see someone follow through with things.
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Old 06-20-2009, 07:14 AM   #162
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engine is finally out
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Old 06-21-2009, 10:22 PM   #163
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engine is in the car. only a few things left to hook up and then itll be ready to start. ill have a new thread for vids and pics. for now heres a couple more pics.
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Old 06-22-2009, 01:39 AM   #164
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Awesome
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Old 06-22-2009, 10:48 AM   #165
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GA's gonna be killer.
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Old 06-22-2009, 05:08 PM   #166
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That thing is gonna be a beast!

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Old 06-22-2009, 06:41 PM   #167
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what's the projected whp?
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Old 06-22-2009, 06:59 PM   #168
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im hopin for 210. ill have an exact number either in the winter or spring after the break in period is over.
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Old 06-22-2009, 07:02 PM   #169
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damn that's a lot of work for only 210.... but I guess without boost that's a pretty high number, ya??
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Old 06-22-2009, 07:18 PM   #170
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should be able to be started tonight.
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Old 06-24-2009, 09:21 PM   #171
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engine cant be started, the part where the crank bolt on the crank is COMPLETELY stripped, i have to tap it out and use an oversized bolt.
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Old 06-24-2009, 09:51 PM   #172
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well get to work already. HEHEHe. J/K
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Old 06-25-2009, 05:48 AM   #173
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converted to ls1 :)
 
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that happened to me when i started thought i could suck the crank pulley in w/ the bolt..it started to strip and it did a little..i had to knock the crank pulley on more by hand g.l...but that does suck..g.l.
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Old 06-25-2009, 06:03 AM   #174
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Ouch! Good luck getting it fixed.
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Old 06-25-2009, 06:26 AM   #175
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yea thanks. words cant decribe how pissed i am about this. its literally the LAST thing that has to be done, minus the belt. hopefully my buddy whose helped me with this whole thing can get his hands on a tap and die set with an oversized bolt.
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Old 06-25-2009, 03:23 PM   #176
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converted to ls1 :)
 
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i have taps that are huge ranging in size...lmk what size you need and i can check if i got one
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Old 06-25-2009, 07:40 PM   #177
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You may be able to drill and tap the stock hole a little deeper. Then use a longer bolt to hold everything together. The stock threads are M12 x 1.5mm. If you go with a larger bolt, be sure to use a fine thread bolt. The next standard size up would be a M14 x 1.5mm. You will need to drill the hole to .500 diameter before tapping the hole. You will also need to open up the hole in the washer to fit the new bolt.
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Old 06-29-2009, 03:00 PM   #178
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yet ANOTHER set back. the rear main seal is leaking..... BAD, so now the whole engine has to be pulled AGAIN and pulled completly apart, AGAIN. as you can probably tell, this has become a big headache for me. so one piece of advice i give to anyone who reads through this thread and decides to embark on an adventure like this, double and triple check EVERYTHING.
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Old 06-30-2009, 08:59 AM   #179
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You shouldn't have to pull the whole engine apart to replace the rear main seal. Just pull the engine out separate from the trans and take the fly wheel off. I did the rear main seal on my GP without taking anything apart on the engine.
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Old 06-30-2009, 09:10 AM   #180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AaronGTR View Post
You shouldn't have to pull the whole engine apart to replace the rear main seal. Just pull the engine out separate from the trans and take the fly wheel off. I did the rear main seal on my GP without taking anything apart on the engine.
well since the threads for the harmonic balancer are bad on the crank anyway, were gonna swap cranks, flex plate and everything. motor is already back out and both oil pans are off, now we just have to get the cranks out of both and swapped. then the motor can be put back in. i think theres also a plug on the back of the block that couldve been the culprit of the leak.
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