Reasons for tire wear?

[SilverGAGT2002]

You bought Goodyear tires at Walmart.... that is your problem.



No need for the **** asshat


Also every time i go over bumps the rear squeaks and the front squeaks alot too but i just got my struts replaced. So yeah this car is beginning to be a big nuisnace

[LeapingLizzy]

Originally Posted by stanjk3

Not sure about the GA but my LGT has some negative camber, so if you don't rotate the tires they tend to cup faster than most tires. That leads to obscene amounts of road noise. The tread design doesn't help either.

This is where I first read about it.
http://tl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=721408

It's not a safety recall, it's due to the numerous complaints about cupping and/or excessive road noise.

If you bought them at Tirerack, you should be able to get them replaced with another set or Eagle GTs for free. You do have to pay for the shipping and installation, but they credit you up to $100. As for other retailers, YMMV.

I bought mine at a Goodyear store. I'll have to call them tomorrow and find out what the deal is... Thank you for the heads up.

[AleroB888]

Originally Posted by westerndragon

anyone even suggest inflation issues either over or under inflated....omg

post pics of the tire wear and you might get some better answers.

there are way to many causes of tire wear to just shoot blanks in the dark

[SilverGAGT2002]

I disposed of the tires they were no good as bald as mr clean

[SSRacer]

A lot of these possibilities can be checked easily by raising the front of the car and seeing if there is any play in the wheels. Push and pull on the tires are the 3 and 9 o'clock positions and then again at 12 and 6. if there is any wobble that will tell you that there is a mechanical problem there...either tie rods, ball joints or hubs.

[SilverGAGT2002]

When i go over bumpy roads i feel alot of vibration in the rear and front, also my wife has been saying that everytime she turns she hears a clicking noise coming from the steering wheel but im assuming its from one of the tie rods or arms.

[[ChaosweaveR]]

That still could be numerous things. Do what Sean suggested, and get the front end of the GA in the air and check for play from the front wheels. The cracking noise could either be a bad hub bearing, or the inner tie rod going bad. The cracking sound if it's the inner tie rod, that's probably the inner rod's threads being pulled out of the outer piece. Happened to my mother's 94 Sentra.

[SilverGAGT2002]

I dont know from where the noise is coming from but how expensive is it do redo the whole front and back?

[SSRacer]

Redo what? Until you know what it is you don't know what to redo...there are ball joints, tie rods, hub assemblies, CV joints, half shafts, springs, struts, strut mounts, etc. Any of these parts could in theory cause some of your symptoms.

If you want to redo ALL of that then you are looking at a few grand.

[SilverGAGT2002]

I already got new struts but in my springs are fine so im guessing its any of the others

Yeah im willing to redo all the ball joints, tie rods, hub assemblies, CV joints, half shafts to make this thing feel good on the road like new

[O1GAGT]

Originally Posted by SilverGAGT2002

You bought Goodyear tires at Walmart.... that is your problem.



No need for the **** asshat


Also every time i go over bumps the rear squeaks and the front squeaks alot too but i just got my struts replaced. So yeah this car is beginning to be a big nuisnace

It wasn't ****, it is truth..... live and learn

I have gone through several sets of Good Year tires, all which wore out very quickly and became very noisy after a matter of 3-4 months. If you knew anything about Walmart's buying practices you might be shocked, alot of times manufacturers lower the quality of the components used in a product to be able to meet the walmart price guidelines.

[Evil Djtorello]

I disagree on you idea of replacing everything on the front. Throwing parts at an unknown problem is a bad idea. Its costly, ineffecient, And for the most part, pointless.

The vague noises you describe can be any of the following:

* Ball joint
* Inner tierod
* Outer tierod
* CV joint
* Hub bearing
* Control arm bushings
* Swaybar endlinks
* Strut mounts
* Coil isolaters
* Loose Strut Hardware
* Steering Rack isolators worn or missing
* Loose plastic shielding
* Worn rubber radiator supports
...etc....

It can be many things.

Best suggestion is to lift the car up, and take pics for us. Get your hands dirty, and feel up the cars underside for excessive play in anything other then wires and hoses. The Excessive tire wear is going to be something suspension related, or bad tires. There is no specific answer as of yet, from a vague description. As of odd noises, those are some of the hardest answers to pinpoint. Almost as difficult as electrical gremlins.

Though u state you have replaced the tires, 3 questions have eluded us.

1) What was your tire pressure?

2) Were they directional tires?

3) what was the DOT required code imprinted on the side?

Ill help you out with what ever i can, regardless im a bit of an old grump.

[SilverGAGT2002]

Ill see if i can lift the car soon and get some pics

Tire pressure was 35 psi which i always kept them at and it was just my front tires that wore out my back ones are still in good shape but the guy at walmart said it was uneven tire wear dont know how that would be possible

[[ChaosweaveR]]

No offense, but why did you even go to Wal-Mart for tires? I don't trust them even with a spork. Seriously, I've heard some horror stories about the Wal-Mart repair shop in my neighborhood.

[SSRacer]

Originally Posted by SilverGAGT2002

Ill see if i can lift the car soon and get some pics

Tire pressure was 35 psi which i always kept them at and it was just my front tires that wore out my back ones are still in good shape but the guy at walmart said it was uneven tire wear dont know how that would be possible

I believe the recommended PSI for the GA is 30. The only time I ever used 35 was during an auto cross

[AaronGTR]

He wasn't using factory tires though, and he doesn't necessarily have to use factory recommended inflation pressures. Those are mainly used for ride comfort and NVH levels. Case in point, the snaffu a few years ago with the firestone tires on ford explorers. People complained about ride harshness so Ford lowered the recommended tire inflation pressure below what firestone told them those tires should use for that vehicle. Of course people never check their tires and/or they drive their SUV's 90mph on the freeway. The result... the tires overheated and people started having blowouts. So what does Ford do? Raises the recommended inflation pressure of course. Now, firestone admitted they made some bad tires and they should have resisted blowouts more, but if Ford hadn't lowered the pressure to begin with and people had checked their pressures/slowed down then they wouldn't have had a problem.

Using slightly higher pressures can increase fuel mileage and handling response, and it won't increase your tire wear significantly if at all. Not if your alignment and balancing is correct. I always use higher inflation pressure in my cars. The factory pressures always feel mushy to me.

[2000 GT Coupe]

Originally Posted by AaronGTR

He wasn't using factory tires though, and he doesn't necessarily have to use factory recommended inflation pressures. Those are mainly used for ride comfort and NVH levels. Case in point, the snaffu a few years ago with the firestone tires on ford explorers. People complained about ride harshness so Ford lowered the recommended tire inflation pressure below what firestone told them those tires should use for that vehicle. Of course people never check their tires and/or they drive their SUV's 90mph on the freeway. The result... the tires overheated and people started having blowouts. So what does Ford do? Raises the recommended inflation pressure of course. Now, firestone admitted they made some bad tires and they should have resisted blowouts more, but if Ford hadn't lowered the pressure to begin with and people had checked their pressures/slowed down then they wouldn't have had a problem.

Using slightly higher pressures can increase fuel mileage and handling response, and it won't increase your tire wear significantly if at all. Not if your alignment and balancing is correct. I always use higher inflation pressure in my cars. The factory pressures always feel mushy to me.

I agree, I generally go by just below the tire max. If the ride seems to be right.

[Mike Jung]

Originally Posted by SSRacer

I believe the recommended PSI for the GA is 30. The only time I ever used 35 was during an auto cross

That is the MINUMUM cold tire pressure recommened.

Originally Posted by AaronGTR

He wasn't using factory tires though, and he doesn't necessarily have to use factory recommended inflation pressures. Those are mainly used for ride comfort and NVH levels. Case in point, the snaffu a few years ago with the firestone tires on ford explorers. People complained about ride harshness so Ford lowered the recommended tire inflation pressure below what firestone told them those tires should use for that vehicle. Of course people never check their tires and/or they drive their SUV's 90mph on the freeway. The result... the tires overheated and people started having blowouts. So what does Ford do? Raises the recommended inflation pressure of course. Now, firestone admitted they made some bad tires and they should have resisted blowouts more, but if Ford hadn't lowered the pressure to begin with and people had checked their pressures/slowed down then they wouldn't have had a problem.

Using slightly higher pressures can increase fuel mileage and handling response, and it won't increase your tire wear significantly if at all. Not if your alignment and balancing is correct. I always use higher inflation pressure in my cars. The factory pressures always feel mushy to me.

My G8 GT:

Has a recommended minimum cold tire pressure of:
33 psi front / 33 psi rear if carrying up to 573 lbs
36 psi front / 39 psi rear if carrying up to 916 lbs

& if running high speeds of 100 mph or greater:
35 psi front / 35 psi rear if carrying up to 573 lbs
39 psi front / 44 psi rear if carrying up to to 917 lbs

The RS-A are maximum cold tire rated at 44 psi.

I have them set at sightly higher than the minimum of 36 psi front / 39 psi rear.
& my tire's sidewalls look low ?
Even when finished driving off of the highway, where the TPM system says my rears are like 45 psi.

Originally Posted by 2000 GT Coupe

I agree, I generally go by just below the tire max. If the ride seems to be right.

My Nokian Hakkapeliitta RSi winter tires (that are XL load rated) have a maximum cold tire pressure of 55 psi.
Would you run them that high ?



PS: On my GA with Bridgestone Potenza RE950's & Blizzak LM-22... I have them at minimum tire pressure 34 psi front / 32 psi rears (if not more).

[2000 GT Coupe]

Originally Posted by Mike Jung

My Nokian Hakkapeliitta RSi winter tires (that are XL load rated) have a maximum cold tire pressure of 55 psi.
Would you run them that high ?



PS: On my GA with Bridgestone Potenza RE950's & Blizzak LM-22... I have them at minimum tire pressure 34 psi front / 32 psi rears (if not more).

If they were a ultra high performance tire then I would run them at 50psi, if they were for carrying lots of weight, unlikely on a ga, I would run them at 50 or even more. But for normal running on a GA I would not run those particular tires that high.