My Rear Turbo Mount Build

[cmtapanes]

To answer your question the Fuel Pressure Regular controls the amount of fuel pressure inside the fuel rails. The fuel pump will send more fuel to the rails that is needed and the FPR will keep a specific pressure on the rails. Boosted cards get a FPR that can be adjusted manually to get a 1:1 ratio.

Originally Posted by SilverGAGT2002

What is the fuel pressure regulator for? Sorry if its a noob question but i would like to know

[AaronGTR]

Originally Posted by PhantomLover007

Do the lines actually hold pressure or do they just cover up the actual lines?

He used -AN fittings and braided hose to run to the relocated FPR and from there to the stcok return line, so those now hold the fuel pressure and replace that stock section of hard line that normally runs off the bottom of the stock FPR.

[3800SII]

Originally Posted by cmtapanes

To answer your question the Fuel Pressure Regular controls the amount of fuel pressure inside the fuel rails. The fuel pump will send more fuel to the rails that is needed and the FPR will keep a specific pressure on the rails. Boosted cards get a FPR that can be adjusted manually to get a 1:1 ratio.

Nice work Carlos! How much more work you got into your project? How is it running now?

[cmtapanes]

Work? Endless... there's always something that needs to be fix or improved. I have to take out the turbo and get it rebuild because is leaking oil on the compression side and is sending oil to the intake. After I get that done I have to get some tuning done now that I have the FPR. I have to send the upper and lower to get ported and to open the TB hole to 65mm because the 65mm TB is been sitting on the garage for a long time already.

But the car is running a lot better now. Still boosting 5psi.

[3800SII]

Originally Posted by cmtapanes

Work? Endless... there's always something that needs to be fix or improved. I have to take out the turbo and get it rebuild because is leaking oil on the compression side and is sending oil to the intake. After I get that done I have to get some tuning done now that I have the FPR. I have to send the upper and lower to get ported and to open the TB hole to 65mm because the 65mm TB is been sitting on the garage for a long time already.

But the car is running a lot better now. Still boosting 5psi.

I feel ya! I am just about there myself! I think you might be better off just buying a new turbo instead of getting that one rebuilt if it leaked that bad. If you can get a good rebuild done for under $100 then go for it. My ebay turbo is working flawlessly now and I have about 3000 miles on it to my very own surprise. No leaks and plenty of power. It just doesn't have that nice whistle that I am used to.

Sometimes you can buy a spare upper and lower intake for dirt cheap from a salvage yard or online and save alot of time and $. Take the time to clean and port them yourself :-)

If you have a 65mm TB then go ahead and slap it on. I am still running the stock upper plenum but you should easily be able to die grind the hole more if you need with the right tools. Keep us posted on your work!

[PhantomLover007]

Originally Posted by AaronGTR

He used -AN fittings and braided hose to run to the relocated FPR and from there to the stcok return line, so those now hold the fuel pressure and replace that stock section of hard line that normally runs off the bottom of the stock FPR.

Ah. Thanks Aaron. I thought that the fittings looked different, but I wasn't sure. Thanks man.

[cmtapanes]

Well... I contact a local guy that's well known rebuilding turbos and he charges $240 and he will replace the internals with garrett or turbonetics parts. I'm on the delema if I should go for it or get a new one from eBay. For less than that but I run into the problem of the turbo leaking again.

I already have the upper and lower intake on the garage from a 2000 Grand Am. I just need to send it off the get port it but I don't have the $$ or the tools to do it, I would love to get the TB on. That could be a could project to do my self if I can get my hands on the tools to do it.

I do have a small Garrett M24 on the garage.. I wonder if I'll be able to use some of the internal to fix my.

Originally Posted by 3800SII

I feel ya! I am just about there myself! I think you might be better off just buying a new turbo instead of getting that one rebuilt if it leaked that bad. If you can get a good rebuild done for under $100 then go for it. My ebay turbo is working flawlessly now and I have about 3000 miles on it to my very own surprise. No leaks and plenty of power. It just doesn't have that nice whistle that I am used to.

Sometimes you can buy a spare upper and lower intake for dirt cheap from a salvage yard or online and save alot of time and $. Take the time to clean and port them yourself :-)

If you have a 65mm TB then go ahead and slap it on. I am still running the stock upper plenum but you should easily be able to die grind the hole more if you need with the right tools. Keep us posted on your work!

[3800SII]

Originally Posted by cmtapanes

Well... I contact a local guy that's well known rebuilding turbos and he charges $240 and he will replace the internals with garrett or turbonetics parts. I'm on the delema if I should go for it or get a new one from eBay. For less than that but I run into the problem of the turbo leaking again.

I already have the upper and lower intake on the garage from a 2000 Grand Am. I just need to send it off the get port it but I don't have the $$ or the tools to do it, I would love to get the TB on. That could be a could project to do my self if I can get my hands on the tools to do it.

I do have a small Garrett M24 on the garage.. I wonder if I'll be able to use some of the internal to fix my.

All you need is an electric die grinder from Harbor Freigt Tools here:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=44141

You can buy a dremel tool from Autozone for $20 and it comes with grinding bits.
A flexshaft attachment is a necessary tool to finish the work:
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...t%20Attachment

It shouldn't cost more than $100 for all the cutting tools and attachments. Good investment if you want to P&P stuff.

[AaronGTR]

I could do it for him too, I did all my stuff. Matching the UIM inlet for a 65mm TB I could do pretty quick. Fully porting the rest of the UIM/LIM takes a little longer and he might be better off sending them to WOT when he's ready. Especially since it's not just about grabbing some sanding rolls and hogging the ports out as much as possible, but rather keeping the correct port shape and finish in the process.

[cmtapanes]

thanks Aaron, actually I just finish working on the garage trying to port the TB opening with a dremel... it's taking for ever and my hand still shaking from holding the dremel

[3800SII]

Originally Posted by cmtapanes

thanks Aaron, actually I just finish working on the garage trying to port the TB opening with a dremel... it's taking for ever and my hand still shaking from holding the dremel

That is murder without an electric die grinder and a carbide cutter! Hope your hands don't bleed

On a side note, I can't thank you guys enough for pointing out this information for me. I took off my MAF to clean the sensor and just happened to look at the manifold opening behind the butterfly valve of the 65mm TB. MAN, there is ALOT of material tha needs to be hogged out! I guess that I was dumbfounded by the fact that there was a restriction that great that would hinder the airflow. I could have killed two birds with one stone and at least ported the whole UIM before adding the TB

How much difference will it make when I match the port to the TB, Aaron?

[cmtapanes]

so you install the 65mm TB wihtou opening the intake hole? there's about 3/8" of material that needs to be grind.

[PhantomLover007]

Originally Posted by cmtapanes

thanks Aaron, actually I just finish working on the garage trying to port the TB opening with a dremel... it's taking for ever and my hand still shaking from holding the dremel

It's like using a weedeater for several hours...

[3800SII]

Originally Posted by cmtapanes

so you install the 65mm TB wihtou opening the intake hole? there's about 3/8" of material that needs to be grind.

Like I said before... I NEVER KNEW IT!!!! I did not notice until I looked at the opening directly behind the butterfly valve. I was going to go ahead and work on it yesterday, but I decided to hold off until I get another plenum gasket. The last one broke off pretty easy and I don't want to get stuck.

Performancewise I am probably cutting myself short 2 to 3 additional horses (maybe 5 to 6 since I am boosted) by not removing the material. Remeber I added the UDP and TB but I got much better gains from the UDP. This is probably the reason why. Still, the 65mm TB gives very smooth acceleration even with the manifold restriction.

There will be ALOT aluminum flying tonight when I get home :-)

[cmtapanes]

started last night.. I have to see if I find an electric grinder... Home Depot didn't have any.

[AaronGTR]

Yeah, dremel tool really isn't big enough for porting something this size. The bits are too small and it doesn't have enough torque. I use an air die grinder with a carbide cutter bit for the initial material removal. That cuts through aluminum fast! Then I finish it off with sanding rolls and flap wheels for blending it smooth. Using an electric drill or electric grinder. Not many places have electric grinders. I had to order a chicago electric model from harbor freight tools.

Point being this kind of work is MUCH easier if you have the right tools.

As far as gains from non-ported vs match ported... I couldn't really give you an exact number. All I can really tell you is it will certainly make a difference having a smooth air passage compared to the air coming in and hitting a flat faced edge. That will make a lot of turbulence.

[alocaurd]

ressurection of the thread! ok so im buiding a rear mount turbo as well, and my qustion is to the PCV system. what if i were to run a breather on the rear cover, and cap the openings on both the intake tube and the throttle body, and then place the valve from my front valve cover before my MAF? that way under vacum, air would be pulled through the breather, through the case, and through the MAF to be measured and burnt. under boost, air would be pushed through the PCV tube, through the case, and out the breather? this seems to easy to be true to me, so please point out the flaws!


Edit: after pondering a bit im wondering if i would lose too much boost through this system? if so, is it possible to regulate that?

the other option is instead of running to the intake pre-maf, run it to a catch can, and then to the intake all the way to the back pre-turbo. is this possible?

[cmtapanes]

Well... I finaly got time to port the upper intake opening to install the 65mm TB. Here is the picture of the new TB. I'm getting better turbo boost after installing the TB



Edit: I keep the 99 UIM. I have a 2000 that I need to port and replace for the 99 UIM for better flow

[3800SII]

Originally Posted by cmtapanes

Well... I finaly got time to port the upper intake opening to install the 65mm TB. Here is the picture of the new TB. I'm getting better turbo boost after installing the TB



Edit: I keep the 99 UIM. I have a 2000 that I need to port and replace for the 99 UIM for better flow

Nice work Carlos!

[3800SII]

Originally Posted by alocaurd

ressurection of the thread! ok so im buiding a rear mount turbo as well, and my qustion is to the PCV system. what if i were to run a breather on the rear cover, and cap the openings on both the intake tube and the throttle body, and then place the valve from my front valve cover before my MAF? that way under vacum, air would be pulled through the breather, through the case, and through the MAF to be measured and burnt. under boost, air would be pushed through the PCV tube, through the case, and out the breather? this seems to easy to be true to me, so please point out the flaws!


Edit: after pondering a bit im wondering if i would lose too much boost through this system? if so, is it possible to regulate that?

the other option is instead of running to the intake pre-maf, run it to a catch can, and then to the intake all the way to the back pre-turbo. is this possible?

Not sure if you got your answer, but an external PCV system should not be necessary if you are under 10 psi. Place a breather filter for where the oil cap goes and simply vent the rear tube to the air. Make sure to cap off the side that goes to the top of the manifold...