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Old 08-05-2010, 08:48 PM   #101
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http://ontariopontiacclub.ca/index.php?topic=4358.0

Found it.

http://wot-tech.com/shop/all/street/.../prod_242.html

This is the "stage 3" cam he is running. He is also running the Competition 3400 heads, not Race/Boost. His is very much a stage 2 equivalent and I would love to see the emissions it produces.
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Old 08-05-2010, 10:57 PM   #102
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Interesting. I'd certainly like to see the car and slips. And I'm not saying I doubt his car either, but a few things don't add up.

One, he says he's been tuning GA's for 9 years.... neither DHP nor HPtuner has been available for the car for that long.

Two, it doesn't add up on the 1/4 mile calculator. Assuming stock weight of a GA and a 180lb driver, you are looking at almost 3300lbs. To run a 13.2 you'd need 285whp, and that's assuming a perfect launch. A fwd car even with DR's you can basically add 2-3 tenths to that, meaning you'd need over 300whp to run a 13.2.... and then there's the slow shifting automatic. Now, I've never heard of anyone yet making over 300whp without boost in one of these cars. Add in the other factors, and this guy either has one extremely narly build, or the track timing was way off, or something else.
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Old 08-06-2010, 03:54 PM   #103
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Uh, why should I care? This is just the internet after all, and I personally have no vested interest in either company. All I have is my opinion on who makes better parts and that's it.




Not really considering the time and comparing it to the previous NA record and what these cars typically run stock in NA form. And it's not like turbocharging these cars is that easy either. Since no one makes a kit and it was never designed for boost from the factory, there are quite a lot of modifications needed to run boost safely and properly. Most people cheap out on the parts and construction trying to build an affordable kit and then end up being unreliable and selling everything before they even get any results... because they didn't spend the time/money to design it properly with good parts.

My point is a turbo on these cars that will be any good will still end up costing more than an NA build.
pretty much the same in the 240sx world too. guys try and turbo the stock 2.4L motors that are not really built to handle boost.they always cheap on parts and half ass **** and the motors are ticking time bombs. most often never run correct and end up getting parted out to the next moron that has grand dreams of a 500$ turbo setup that will run 11's.
I guess i am spoiled in the fact that i have always had what ever is needed to turbo just about any car at my finger tips and the knowledge of what it takes to make setups safe for many years now. That and i can build nice turbo headers for any car for cheaper then most people can cobble together **** pile headers.

i am not against WOT tech NA at all, more so building an NA car in general. its just not my thing. I cant see spending 1500$ on heads 300 on a cam, 300 on intakes 250 on a TB and 600+ on headers 100+ on a CAI the gains to me just dont justify the money spent. Thats me though. im the kind of person that adds up a good NA build cost and a turbo cost and sees that if there is a difference of thousand or two then id save up more money to follow the path the leads to more gains per dollar spent.
Then again i also can do all my own labor, all my own fab work. which for the normal car enthusiast is well above their knowledge base or skill level. most people cant afford to shell out 20+ hours of labor in installs, tuning and fabrication. Not many aftermarkets have customers that can afford that.
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Old 08-06-2010, 03:58 PM   #104
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Originally Posted by AaronGTR View Post
Interesting. I'd certainly like to see the car and slips. And I'm not saying I doubt his car either, but a few things don't add up.

One, he says he's been tuning GA's for 9 years.... neither DHP nor HPtuner has been available for the car for that long.

Two, it doesn't add up on the 1/4 mile calculator. Assuming stock weight of a GA and a 180lb driver, you are looking at almost 3300lbs. To run a 13.2 you'd need 285whp, and that's assuming a perfect launch. A fwd car even with DR's you can basically add 2-3 tenths to that, meaning you'd need over 300whp to run a 13.2.... and then there's the slow shifting automatic. Now, I've never heard of anyone yet making over 300whp without boost in one of these cars. Add in the other factors, and this guy either has one extremely narly build, or the track timing was way off, or something else.
they are closer to 3K pounds curb weight is around 1,391Kg
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Old 08-06-2010, 06:46 PM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vegeta View Post
http://ontariopontiacclub.ca/index.php?topic=4358.0

Found it.

http://wot-tech.com/shop/all/street/.../prod_242.html

This is the "stage 3" cam he is running. He is also running the Competition 3400 heads, not Race/Boost. His is very much a stage 2 equivalent and I would love to see the emissions it produces.
It won't pass... his sticker is a little "shady" lets say
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Old 08-07-2010, 06:52 AM   #106
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they are closer to 3K pounds curb weight is around 1,391Kg

dude.... seriously? You are gonna try and tell me how much my own car weighs now?


Coupes are slightly lighter than sedans. Door sticker on my coupe says 3080lbs. I've weighed the car on a scale, full gas tank no driver, and it still was around 3100lbs. Add a typical 160-200lb driver and you are around 3300lbs race weight.
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Old 08-07-2010, 07:02 AM   #107
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I dont know if they label the car differently in the US, I doubt it. From what I understand, your GVW would be the car, a 175lb passenger for each seatbelt, and all fluid levels filled including gas tank.
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Old 08-07-2010, 07:21 AM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vegeta View Post
http://ontariopontiacclub.ca/index.php?topic=4358.0

Found it.

http://wot-tech.com/shop/all/street/.../prod_242.html

This is the "stage 3" cam he is running. He is also running the Competition 3400 heads, not Race/Boost. His is very much a stage 2 equivalent and I would love to see the emissions it produces.
Just had a look at those specks and now his time does not equate to me either. Unless he has that engine in a Smart car, I dont see that time being accurate. He says he will be back down in this area for a meet and trak day this year. Ill make sure Im there if at all possible this time. Most of the stage 2 stuff is between 14.1 and 14.4, that is jsut too fast for the mods. Now if he has nitrous in there already, then that time I could accept... Who knows though, maybe this is the freak you have all been looking for?????
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Old 08-07-2010, 08:05 PM   #109
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I dont know if they label the car differently in the US, I doubt it. From what I understand, your GVW would be the car, a 175lb passenger for each seatbelt, and all fluid levels filled including gas tank.
that's how i thought it was. with 5 people figured it's 700lbs of weight

isnt the GVW something in the 3400 range. it's been awhile since i looked at the sticker
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Old 08-07-2010, 10:16 PM   #110
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Wikipedia says:
A gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) is the maximum allowable total mass of a road vehicle or trailer when loaded - i.e including the weight of the vehicle itself plus fuel, passengers, cargo, and trailer tongue weight.
The difference between gross weight and curb weight is the total passenger and cargo weight capacity of the vehicle. For example, a pickup truck with a curb weight of 4,500 pounds (2,041 kg) might have a cargo capacity of 2,000 pounds (907 kg), meaning it can have a gross weight of 6,500 pounds (2,948 kg) when fully loaded.

So I missed the cargo rating in the GVW total
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Old 08-08-2010, 09:08 AM   #111
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that's how i thought it was. with 5 people figured it's 700lbs of weight

isnt the GVW something in the 3400 range. it's been awhile since i looked at the sticker


Yeah, GVWR is the total max weight rating of the car with all fluids full and it's passengers/cargo. My door sticker says 4014 GVWR and 899 load capacity, so that equals 3115 lbs curb weight. I think when I weighed my car last time I got 3080, meaning I had removed 35lbs, so that's where I got that from.
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Old 08-08-2010, 02:31 PM   #112
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Yeah, GVWR is the total max weight rating of the car with all fluids full and it's passengers/cargo. My door sticker says 4014 GVWR and 899 load capacity, so that equals 3115 lbs curb weight. I think when I weighed my car last time I got 3080, meaning I had removed 35lbs, so that's where I got that from.
i forgot what the sticker said but thanks for the info.

i want to find a scale to see what my car weighs in at.
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Old 08-08-2010, 03:11 PM   #113
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i forgot what the sticker said but thanks for the info.

i want to find a scale to see what my car weighs in at.
Take some scrap metal to a recycling facility. Most have you roll onto a scale.
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Old 08-08-2010, 03:26 PM   #114
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Thats a good idea too, they will weigh you goin in and going out. You pay the difference, but you will have your "leaving" weight to go by.
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Old 08-08-2010, 08:31 PM   #115
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You could also go to a truck shop or DMV location depending on what you have around you. Most have a scale or know where you can find one, since trucks and trailers have to deal with weights all the time for registration and such. They are usually open to the public because people often have to use them to weigh boat trailers etc for trailer registration.
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Old 08-09-2010, 10:56 PM   #116
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ok so is this thing goin on?
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Old 08-09-2010, 11:02 PM   #117
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What thing?
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Old 08-09-2010, 11:38 PM   #118
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ok so is this thing goin on?
Don't listen to Clint, he bought a Neon SRT4.
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Old 08-11-2010, 05:38 PM   #119
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ha.. the thing bout mms vs wot, thought there was gonna be a challenge.. u know the WHOLE 6 PAGE point to this thread... also i did buy a srt-4 but still HAVE AND LOVE MY GRAND AM.. it is i drove it today.
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Old 08-11-2010, 07:36 PM   #120
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omg i'm so sick of this thread yet i keep coming back to read this whining ugh. either you buy both and test yourself and post results or stfu and wait for someone else to do it and form your own opinions for now. sorry to anyone that gets offended just felt like this needed to be said.
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