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#21 |
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GAGT - Member
![]() AKA: mike
Join Date: May 2008
Location: illinois
Posts: 100
Vehicle: 2002 grand am gt sedan
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while your at it clean or replace the iac valve to replace it cost 30 bucks and it is simple to do 2 screws and it is located on the side of the TB WORKED FOR MINE I HAD HARD SHIFTS , and jerking at about 2500-3500 rpm's
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#22 |
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GAGT - Member
![]() AKA: ean
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: roanoke va
Posts: 260
Vehicle: 2005 grand am GT coupe
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Thanks for the suggestions everyone. Im gunna try the maf cleaner and the iac valve first.
Ill probly also want to seafoam it. Im not exactly sure how to do that though. I read some stuff about it and I know I need to disconnect some stuff, but im not exactly sure what. Last edited by pontiacgt05; 02-18-2011 at 08:07 PM. |
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#23 |
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GAGT - Member
![]() AKA: Jesse
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Wenatchee, WA
Age: 60
Posts: 277
Vehicle: 1999 Malibu S/C
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I'd suggest NOT using Seafoam unless you are absolutely SURE you know how to do it properly. Directions for these cars should be here someplace, search if you must...
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#24 |
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GAGT - Member
![]() AKA: ean
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: roanoke va
Posts: 260
Vehicle: 2005 grand am GT coupe
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Yea ive searched and I know the best way to do it is feed it though the mian vacuum line. Not exatlyyy sure where that is though. Do 1/3 of the can in there? then 1/3 in crankcase?and 1/3 in the gas tank? is that right?
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#25 |
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Im A Motherfuc*er
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If you do put it in the crankcase youll need to do an oil change shortly after.
__________________
GO: 28lb/hr Trailblazer injectors, Flowmaster 80 Custom Cat-back, Stewart Warner Maximum Performance Series Gauges, DHP Powertuner SHOW: Camaro Brake Upgrade, F/R Sway Bars, SLP STB |
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#26 |
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GAGT - Member
![]() AKA: ean
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: roanoke va
Posts: 260
Vehicle: 2005 grand am GT coupe
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Yea and I should change my spark plugs and wires too correct?
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#27 | |
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BlingWithBallz
![]() AKA: Aaron
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Detroit area, MI
Age: 43
Posts: 12,254
Vehicle: 2000 Grand Am GT1 2dr
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Quote:
Also, adding them to the fuel and intake is ok since it will help clear out carbon deposits, but personally I am not a fan of adding ANYTHING to the oil. If the car has had regular oil changes with decent oil then there shouldn't be any build up and nothing to clean out. If you do put it in the oil, don't leave it in there long. Maybe run it for a week then change the oil. Besides, most quality oils have an additives package that does it's own cleaning.
__________________
The few, the proud, the boosted! 13.788 @ 103.73 mph (3/2011) 320 whp and 300 ft/lbs torque. (3/2011) See it here. the total package. |
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#28 |
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GAGT - Member
![]() AKA: ean
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: roanoke va
Posts: 260
Vehicle: 2005 grand am GT coupe
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okay I probly wont put it in the oil then. As far as I know the spark plugs have never been changed, and recntly the car hasnt been starting great. Thanks for the help
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#29 |
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Owned by a Mercury
![]() AKA: CJ
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Romeoville, IL
Posts: 199
Vehicle: 2010 Cobalt 2LT Sport
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Uh oh I hope you dont have the problem I had. Even with brand new plugs and wires mine would only start correctly from a cold start. Any other time is was a weak, terrible sounding start up.
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2001 Grand Am GT - TOTALED (2/18/11) - Straight Piped, Spectre Intake, Blacked Tails and Heads, Red Racing Stripes 2010 Cobalt 2LT Sport |
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#30 | |
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BlingWithBallz
![]() AKA: Aaron
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Detroit area, MI
Age: 43
Posts: 12,254
Vehicle: 2000 Grand Am GT1 2dr
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Quote:
The owners manual recommends replacing the plugs/wires at 100k miles. How many miles are on your car? I've seen plugs last a long time in an engine that has been maintained and running properly (IE not burning oil or anything). But the center electrode does burn down over time and the gap can increase. If you have over 60k miles on the car, it wouldn't hurt to take them out and at least check them. If they look in good shape, just check the gap and re-gap them if necessary. Reinstall and see how they run.
__________________
The few, the proud, the boosted! 13.788 @ 103.73 mph (3/2011) 320 whp and 300 ft/lbs torque. (3/2011) See it here. the total package. |
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#31 |
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GAGT - Member
![]() AKA: ean
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: roanoke va
Posts: 260
Vehicle: 2005 grand am GT coupe
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ill check a few of them before I go and buy new plugs, but the car has about 97k miles so Its getting to that time to replace them anyway. Also will the seafoam clean the fuel injectors? I feel like they need to be cleaned as well.
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#32 | |
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GAGT - Member
![]() AKA: ean
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: roanoke va
Posts: 260
Vehicle: 2005 grand am GT coupe
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Quote:
Should I mention when it does this boggy start, if i drive it after without starting again it drives funny. It hesitates and acceleration is choppy. |
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#33 |
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GAGT - Member
![]() AKA: ean
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: roanoke va
Posts: 260
Vehicle: 2005 grand am GT coupe
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Okay so I went out and got the maf cleaner and decided while im at it to clean my filter. The maf wasnt dirty at all, but the filter was filthy. Anyway after finishing i took a drive around the block and it actually seemed to be a little better. Acceleration wasnt jumpy, and when i shifted to third it didnt slip right away. Ill keep trying some of the other ideas and updating.
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#34 |
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GAGT - Member
![]() AKA: Jesse
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Wenatchee, WA
Age: 60
Posts: 277
Vehicle: 1999 Malibu S/C
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Glad to hear the filter got the gunk before the sensor and/or engine. It should be breathing better now... Time to clean/change the IAC.
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#35 |
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GAGT - Member
![]() AKA: ean
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: roanoke va
Posts: 260
Vehicle: 2005 grand am GT coupe
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yea thats the next thing im doing, alog with spark plugs and wires. Wont be able to do it till the weekend though
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#36 |
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GAGT - Member
![]() AKA: ean
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: roanoke va
Posts: 260
Vehicle: 2005 grand am GT coupe
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okay so i went out and bought the iac valve. thinking it would be easy enough, I went out and started taking out the one in there.. and i have no clue how to replace it. or even if i have the right thing. Help?
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#37 | |
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So that's Vtec...
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Quote:
IIRC, the IACV is right after the throttle body, as is the TPS sensor.
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![]() 2015 Honda Accord Sport Sedan: K24W 2003 Mitsubishi Galant ES: 4G64 |
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#38 |
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Boost Addict
![]() AKA: Nick
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: St Cloud, Minnesota
Age: 31
Posts: 1,290
Vehicle: 2002 Grand Am GT V6
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You should have two sensors on one side of the TB the top one is the IAC valve and the lower is the TPS. If you look inside the TB opening you should see a small hole before the throttle plate that will go directly to the IAC.
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BUILT Turbo 3400/4t65e-HD powered Grand AM in the making. ---------------------------------- www.motorsportsevolved.com Get updates on Facebook ---------------------------------- |
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#39 |
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GAGT - Member
![]() AKA: ean
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: roanoke va
Posts: 260
Vehicle: 2005 grand am GT coupe
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okay after some searching i got the old one out. its definately nasty. the spring on the old one, and the spring on the new one are at different lengths, should i do someting about this?
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#40 |
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GAGT - Member
![]() AKA: ean
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: roanoke va
Posts: 260
Vehicle: 2005 grand am GT coupe
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replaced the iac valve everything went good. car starts a little better now. I dont see any difference when drving it though. still does the werid shifting. Im going to record a video of it doing it so maybe you guys can diagnose it a little better
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