Milzy Motorsports headers with PICTURES!

[3400cavyhatch]

Originally Posted by roadie

Everything was bone stock except for:

-180 degree thermostat
-MSD DIS-4 ignition module
-MSD twin tower coil packs
-MSD 8.5mm super conductor spark plug wires
-NGK TR6-IX iridium spark plugs, gapped to 0.045”
-K&N open cone air filter installed right on the end of the MAF for a cold air intake, (some might consider that to be a warm air intake)
-Borla cat back exhaust
-a variable “constant” resistor in the intake air temperature sensor
-Casper’s electronics manual electric fan control
-Billet aluminum upper engine mount
-24.5x8-15 Mickey Thompson full drag slicks on the front
-KYB AGX 4 way adjustable struts on all 4 corners
-Power slot brake rotors all around
-Raybestos advance technology super premium brake pads all around
-Goodridge stainless steel brake lines all around
-Milzy modified heater tube with throttle body passage delete
-mild custom OBDII tune installed for consistancy


-some of those mods listed won't do much, if anything, to lower ET's.
-there are other mods, like gauges, etc., that aren't listed.
-that run was also made at a near sea-level track.
-a majority of my better runs this past season were in the 15.3 sec. range.
(for other reasons I had a lot of bad runs this past season too, but as long as it was consistant I could work with it, which often times it isn't always that either)
-my goal is to keep it eligible for NHRA Stock class competition.

-Another recent change has been to 28# injectors, a TCE adjustable fuel pressure regulator, and Milzy Billet Aluminum front transmission mount.

Wish I could make a run right now, but will have to wait 'till early spring to find out.

Cool! what kind of 60's do you get with the slicks?

[roadie]

2.16 best thus far

[slw240sx]

Thanks for that review ! thats great to hear back positive feed back from one of our customers who has put on their parts. I am sure over the next few months we will start seeing more of the customers who purchased the headers installing them and snapping pictures and giving similar feed back. I am glad you are happy with them, i know it was a wait, and i apologize for that, but it was worth it right?? i hope it was. On that crossover, i would probably try to get that unwrapped and possibly build a heat shield sorta like the factory uses that will help deflect heat and at the same time will keep the crossover from over heating or trapping moisture and ruining the coating. one of these days if i have some down time maybe ill try to develop a heat shield for the headers as a possible accessory. might not be a bad idea.

to any one interested in buying headers now that you have seen some photos, start saving some money. you know tax return season is around the corner that is normally when big ticket items like these start to sell well because people are getting back a chunk of change they have no remorse about blowing irresponsibly. so be ready for another group order of them to kick off around the end of dec beginning of january.

[slw240sx]

For know though if you want to show some support or just are itching to buy something for your car i have a few things that are cheaper to buy and you can always use.

first is something that has been in production for a good part of 5 years. the Milzy Motorsports vented air vent gauge pods. these are made for the 2-1/16 standard gauge size and are a great way to add some metering to your car with out having a bulky gauge pod hanging out on your pillar where every cop behind you can see them and make assumptions about your driving habits.



vent gauge pod 3 by ForcedFab LLC, on Flickr

Next up is the N body front mount. Now i know a lot of people have purchased Milzy's competitors mount which looks awesome by the way! How ever it is also pretty pricey because of how fancy it is. We have looked into building a CNC version just like theirs, but we just cant see it being practical when he has them at a good price and we would have to compete with him likely leaving both companies sitting on dead inventory. So one day i was working on the mock up car and we came up with an idea to build a quality mount at much lower price. after a few hours of measuring and drawings in CAD we had a idea roughed out in steel and test fitted. we threw it on HOY's car for a few days and had good feed back. We sent it out to get laser cut and machined and what we ended up with is a quality budget Front engine mount that is made with all USA sourced materials and a bushing from one of the best known manufactures in the country. The Milzy motorsports N body front mount uses a EnergySuspension Bushing that is designed to withstand torque loading far greater then anything a grand am, even a monster grand am can throw at it. hense our reason behind using a easy to get and low cost bushing instead of engineering our own urethane bushing that would be hard to replace if it ever wore out, which it shouldn't! Also by doing that it allows the cost to be kept to a minimum and that means a lower cost for the customers. so here are a few pictures, its hard to really get a good photo of this mount on the car, but this should give you a good idea as to how it would look on a car. This mount is being offered at 99.99 plus shipping and they are in stock.


GrandAM engine mount 2 by ForcedFab LLC, on Flickr


Grand AM engine mount by ForcedFab LLC, on Flickr

now i know there are some problems with getting around on milzy's site, so PM me if you are interested and ill get you taken care of as to how to get them ordered the easiest.

[HOYS]

Your lightbox pictures look way better than any of the pics I took

[slw240sx]

Originally Posted by HOYS

Your lightbox pictures look way better than any of the pics I took

i would take more had i a fully functioning camera any more...

[roadie]

you can touch the Titanium header wrap on my crossover pipe that's how cool it stays, I sure wouldn't try that on any of the unwrapped pipe, and being that the non-ram air air box practically touches the crossover pipe, and also that radiant heat will rise, I'm thinking it's much better to have on there. and with the amount of heat coming off of the front header that would cool the exhaust somewhat before it reaches the crossover pipe combined with the amount of flow that's got to be going through the pipes there should be no way that the crossover would ever overheat a good quality ceramic coating, which I'm trusting that this is. Time will tell I guess, but if the metal, the welds, and the coating are as good a quality as they look, and Milzy is claiming, they should be able to withstand a lot more than that over a long period of time. I’d still be interested in knowing if the coating is a brand name like Jet hot, or? there is no room for a heat shield in there with the crossover pipe in it's current configuration, it would be touching the pipe and the air box and maybe a few of the other things we had to zip tie out of the way, the heater tube is already touching the crossover pipe, and I don't want to replace another air box… this time if it melted from being too close to the crossover, as the ram air air box as well as the ram air piping already doesn't fit, and wrapping a pipe is a whole lot easier than trying to heat protect every other little odd shaped component that might come within close proximity to the piping. I have an old Doctor Speed (does anybody remember them) heat shield in there now under the throttle body, as you can see in some of the photos, but that heat shield was never that effective, but better than nothing. But please do make a crossover pipe that fits the ram air air box, and if possible with a heat shield, and I'll get that one. thanks Another good thing about these headers is that now it should be much easier to change the thermostat, thank goodness!

[slw240sx]

Originally Posted by roadie

you can touch the Titanium header wrap on my crossover pipe that's how cool it stays, I sure wouldn't try that on any of the unwrapped pipe, and being that the non-ram air air box practically touches the crossover pipe, and also that radiant heat will rise, I'm thinking it's much better to have on there. and with the amount of heat coming off of the front header that would cool the exhaust somewhat before it reaches the crossover pipe combined with the amount of flow that's got to be going through the pipes there should be no way that the crossover would ever overheat a good quality ceramic coating, which I'm trusting that this is. Time will tell I guess, but if the metal, the welds, and the coating are as good a quality as they look, and Milzy is claiming, they should be able to withstand a lot more than that over a long period of time. I’d still be interested in knowing if the coating is a brand name like Jet hot, or? there is no room for a heat shield in there with the crossover pipe in it's current configuration, it would be touching the pipe and the air box and maybe a few of the other things we had to zip tie out of the way, the heater tube is already touching the crossover pipe, and I don't want to replace another air box… this time if it melted from being too close to the crossover, as the ram air air box as well as the ram air piping already doesn't fit, and wrapping a pipe is a whole lot easier than trying to heat protect every other little odd shaped component that might come within close proximity to the piping. I have an old Doctor Speed (does anybody remember them) heat shield in there now under the throttle body, as you can see in some of the photos, but that heat shield was never that effective, but better than nothing. But please do make a crossover pipe that fits the ram air air box, and if possible with a heat shield, and I'll get that one. thanks Another good thing about these headers is that now it should be much easier to change the thermostat, thank goodness!

with these headers being built to fit the grand prix and 6 speed transmissions i have to raise the crossover up pretty high to clear them and we are trying to make this as universal fitment as possible.

as for the wrap you maybe alright on a NA setup, but on a turbo setup for sure the wrap actually holds in all the heat of the exhaust which can reach over 1500deg F and with it being long term exposure can actually break down even the best coatings also factoring in that moisture that gets trapped in there as well it aids in the break down.
The coating is done by a professional coating shop that does Mil spec parts and its a legit ceramic coating. They are just not a automotive brand name shop. They do over quite a bit of motorsports coating though. im sure they are using a Techline or other reputable companies coating. They stand behind their work, but i know most coater's will not warranty coatings that have been wrapped.

if you can get me some quality pictures of the air box area and ill see what i can do to make things possibly fit better.

[Starglow]

What's the cost on the vent gauge pods?

[AaronGTR]

Originally Posted by roadie

2.16 best thus far

Honestly, those slicks probably didn't do much for you at all. I've run a 2.17 60' with 225 width all season Toyo's and more HP. Track prep, weather conditions, and practice really have a bigger affect on the launch with a lower powered car. You really don't have the HP to need slicks. If anything, DR's would be fine.


Also, no need to have the plugs gapped at .045 either. You aren't running that high a cylinder pressures with no boost and no nitrous, and especially with all the ignition mods you have (and probably also don't need), you shouldn't have any spark problems. Only reason to close up the gap is if you're getting misfires. Running a larger gap will actually give you a better burn though. If you don't see misfires on your scans, don't close the gap.


On topic though, I'd try making a heat shield and ditch the header wrap as slw240sx suggested. Doesn't need to be anything real fancy. I put some wrap on my front header pipe and crossover when I changed the flanges on my TOG's. The directions said they would smoke a little and smelly bad the first couple times they were run... been on for weeks now and I still occasionally get steam coming from under my hood and get nasty smells coming through my vents! I'm planning on taking it off soon as I get a chance. I've thought about making some kind of heat shield to go between the front header and the blower anyway, so I might as well do that instead.

[roadie]

Yes track prep, weather conditions, and practice can make a difference… 2 of which you can’t control and since I’ve had well over 1000 passes on this car the later is well taken care of. I intentionally used more tire than needed with the full Mickey Thompson slicks to get the utmost of consistency and control over traction as possible as that’s what’s really required to be successful for the racing I do. I might try a slightly smaller diameter slick, or radial slick if I can find one close to that size, to help with gearing and ET’s. All the tuning experts that have been around the track for 40+ years, and I’ve been around it for almost that long myself and you learn something everyday, that I’ve talked with all said that the 0.060 spark plug gap is there from the factory for economy and longevity, etc. and on and on, and especially when going to a 180 degree thermostat and a colder plug that the slightly narrower 0.045 gap will provide a much stronger more efficient burn to get as much as you can out of a normally aspirated basically stock setup, and I’ve been doing that for 6 years now and there’s nothing to indicate the contrary. And no all those ignition mods won’t do much, but when you’re very limited to what all you can do in NHRA stock class racing every little bit can potentially be a big help….there is method to the madness

There is no room in there for a heat shield on the pipes themselves especially with the crossover pipe in its current configuration, everything is practically touching already. And this titanium header wrap only smoked for about the first 30 seconds and then nothing.

After a short 10 mile drive today to get everything up to operation temperature I used my laser temperature gun to take a few temperature reading of the headers. The front headers were anywhere from 200-360 degrees Fahrenheit depending on the point of the reading (the coolest temperatures were nearest the passenger side or #2 cylinder and hotter temperatures were nearest the drivers side or #6 cylinder area) and the wrapped crossover pipe was anywhere from 115-190 degrees (hottest temperatures were nearest the front of the crossover pipe and cooler temps were towards the rear of the crossover pipe) A big difference in temperature output in some areas and obviously a lot less in the wrapped areas, so dealing with those types of temperatures, and as you say especially in a normally aspirated situation, I wouldn’t think the wrap would be a problem, and obviously it is providing a benefit.

I tried to take some other photos near the air box area, but not sure I can get much better than that, remember to right click on the thumbnail to open the photo in a new window for the whole original size photo and a better view.

[HOYS]

Originally Posted by Starglow

What's the cost on the vent gauge pods?

They are listed on the website under Engine Performance > 3400 > Electronics.

Jon, please kick Mike (and Aaron) for not having the new site up yet.

[Starglow]

Originally Posted by HOYS

They are listed on the website under Engine Performance > 3400 > Electronics.

Jon, please kick Mike (and Aaron) for not having the new site up yet.

Thanks......! 8-)

[slw240sx]

Originally Posted by HOYS

They are listed on the website under Engine Performance > 3400 > Electronics.

Jon, please kick Mike (and Aaron) for not having the new site up yet.

im so on the fence about just setting up the frame work for him myself just to prove how easy it is to make a website that not all a$$backwards to navigate. i tried to find those gauge pods on my own even using the search function and had no clue where to look. he then tells me to goto engine performance and i just stared at him blankly and said WTF thats FN stupid... plus frames... i can not even link to the page they are on because its fu*king frames... the F*ck is this 1996?? ahhhh dont get me started... My website is simple and needs work , but christ his makes craigslist look modern....

[roadie]

A follow-up to the header install…I was able to get out on the drag strip for the first time today since the header installation last fall, and the results are great. The car recorded its quickest E.T. ever at 14.818 (and I had a 0.004 reaction time to boot!) My previous best was 15.14 on one occasion, but most of the better of my previous runs were in the 15.2-15.3 second range. I made six passes today and all the runs were between 14.81 and 14.96, which is over 3 full tenths of a second quicker then my previous ever best E.T. and almost a full half a second quicker than the 15.2-15.3 second better average runs that I was usually having before. In car video can be seen on youtube here:

[HOYS]

Originally Posted by roadie

A follow-up to the header install…I was able to get out on the drag strip for the first time today since the header installation last fall, and the results are great. The car recorded its quickest E.T. ever at 14.818 (and I had a 0.004 reaction time to boot!) My previous best was 15.14 on one occasion, but most of the better of my previous runs were in the 15.2-15.3 second range. I made six passes today and all the runs were between 14.81 and 14.96, which is over 3 full tenths of a second quicker then my previous ever best E.T. and almost a full half a second quicker than the 15.2-15.3 second better average runs that I was usually having before. In car video can be seen on youtube here:

Wow! Great results! (I wish our local track would run their track radio more consistently...)

Were the headers the only thing you changed between these runs?

[roadie]

with my headers I got the downpipe from Milzy without a cat, so no cat as opposed to last year... and the only other thing that is different than last season, at the moment, is I switched to 28# injectors from here: http://wot-tech.com/shop/gm-60v6/28-.../prod_283.html

[roadie]

I was back out at the track again today and ran another new quickest E.T. ever for this car of 14.754! I made 7 runs today all between 14.75 and 14.83....and finished 2nd in the sportsman class.

[zukiracer19]

Why the helmet??? in PA If your car runs 13s or less you need one...

[locoman99]

Originally Posted by zukiracer19

Why the helmet??? in PA If your car runs 13s or less you need one...

I bet the doctor told your mom you are suppose to be wearing a helmet whenever you leave your "safe room"