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Old 08-26-2012, 05:50 PM   #61
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Thanks for the info and the link to it.


I did not know that. I just figured they would all be the same. Since I already have it all torn apart I will look into replacing it just to be safe. Is there anything I should know or a heads up if and when I decide to go ahead and replace it? To bad the double roller is still not available. Also is it worth the time and effort to go ahead and do the job or will the stock one I have hold up just fine?


It depends. If you run a stock 00+ timing set, with enough miles it will stretch out eventually even on a totally stock engine. With stiffer valve springs and/or a bigger cam it will stretch out a little faster, but there is no real concrete number as to how many miles you can put on it. Basically if it stretches out enough, there is a chance the chain can jump off the sprockets at high rpm (especially if you raise the rev limiter) and that will destroy your engine of course. The stiffer the springs and the more extreme the cam, the more it will stretch.

The '99 timing set won't stretch quite as much since the chain is heavier, but it will stretch out some eventually too. Same rules as above, more lift/stiffer springs = more stretch. If you are running a mild cam and just some Ls6 or comp springs, it should last quite a few miles. It's the best option available since the double rollers aren't available right now. Just fyi you have to change the sprockets on the crank and the cam to use the chain, and a new damper never hurts.
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Old 08-26-2012, 10:26 PM   #62
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Well I am using LS6 lifter springs and LS6 valve springs but on a stock cam. I only upgraded these because I am going to be running boost. My engine being a 02 only has 78,000 miles on it because it stays stored during the winter and never gets out when its raining. I guess it will be a good idea to look into possibly replacing the timing chain since its inexpensive to buy a new kit and the motor is torn down half the way already. I haven't looked into a stock ACDelco chain set yet so I am not sure what one of those will cost. I will get out my GM service manuals and see how much work is involved to replace the timing chain. I have never done one before for I am a little leery on doing it.
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Old 08-27-2012, 03:01 PM   #63
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It's not hard. You might need a pulley puller to get the crank sprocket off but that should be it. According to the people who have done it, the new one should go on by hand or with just a light tap.
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Old 09-15-2012, 07:48 PM   #64
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Just wanted to post some pics of some stuff that was done today. I installed the 3500 cylinder heads, and LIM. I also mocked up the turbo headers and turbo to see where I need to start placing and moving things. Sorry the pictures are from my phone and my motor is nowhere near cleaned up yet.





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Old 09-15-2012, 08:26 PM   #65
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Looking good! Keep it up!!!
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Old 09-15-2012, 08:42 PM   #66
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I would put some heat wrap around the master cylinder to prevent boiling brake fluid. ZZP's 3800 turbo downpipe gets that close to the master cylinder...that car was scary to drive fast because you had no clue if you had brakes when you got going...
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Old 09-16-2012, 11:43 AM   #67
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Better than heat wrap.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DEI-010391/
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Old 09-16-2012, 04:08 PM   #68
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Would I wrap just the brake lines or the whole master cylinder with this stuff?
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Old 09-16-2012, 07:25 PM   #69
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Would I wrap just the brake lines or the whole master cylinder with this stuff?
The headers
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Old 09-16-2012, 08:01 PM   #70
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The headers

WRONG!


That stuff is not meant for holding heat in. It is meant for reflecting heat, ie keeping something cool. I wrapped my fuel rails with it, and the stuff works amazingly well. I'm not sure how easy it would be to apply to something like the MC, but it would certainly keep it cooler. Maybe he could fashion a little heat shield out of aluminum and put the gold foil on that (it's adhesive backed). You can cut it into stripes and wrap it around things though too. I did that on the cross over pipe between my fuel rails.
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Old 09-16-2012, 08:28 PM   #71
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Quote:
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The headers
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Old 09-16-2012, 11:43 PM   #72
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Quote:
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WRONG!


That stuff is not meant for holding heat in. It is meant for reflecting heat, ie keeping something cool. I wrapped my fuel rails with it, and the stuff works amazingly well. I'm not sure how easy it would be to apply to something like the MC, but it would certainly keep it cooler. Maybe he could fashion a little heat shield out of aluminum and put the gold foil on that (it's adhesive backed). You can cut it into stripes and wrap it around things though too. I did that on the cross over pipe between my fuel rails.
Sounds like a good solution there.

But seriously, do something about that. Boiling brake fluid and not having brakes is the worst feeling in the world when you need to stop.
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Old 09-17-2012, 09:00 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AaronGTR View Post
WRONG!


That stuff is not meant for holding heat in. It is meant for reflecting heat, ie keeping something cool. I wrapped my fuel rails with it, and the stuff works amazingly well. I'm not sure how easy it would be to apply to something like the MC, but it would certainly keep it cooler. Maybe he could fashion a little heat shield out of aluminum and put the gold foil on that (it's adhesive backed). You can cut it into stripes and wrap it around things though too. I did that on the cross over pipe between my fuel rails.
LOL i was joking
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Old 09-17-2012, 09:26 AM   #74
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No you weren't.
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Old 09-17-2012, 06:48 PM   #75
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Just to give you an idea of how well that stuff works... before I wrapped the fuel rails, when the engine was hot I could put my finger on the front rail where you can see it under the UIM, and right away it would burn my finger. Now with them wrapped, I can put my finger on it and it's only a little warm. I can leave it there as long as I want.


DEI makes several other types of wraps and heat shielding fabrics that would work as well, to varying degrees. Some are like a fiber/nomex weave similar to header wrap, but adhesive backed and with an aluminized foil layer on the other side. Anything like that which reflects heat would help. You definitely to do something to protect the MC from high temps and keep the fluid cool.
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Old 09-18-2012, 09:32 AM   #76
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No you weren't.
you believe me you must be dumb.
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Old 09-18-2012, 10:12 AM   #77
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you believe me you must be dumb.
Yes, we believe you are that dumb. You previous decisions/comments have proven this.
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Old 09-18-2012, 02:25 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AaronGTR View Post
Just to give you an idea of how well that stuff works... before I wrapped the fuel rails, when the engine was hot I could put my finger on the front rail where you can see it under the UIM, and right away it would burn my finger. Now with them wrapped, I can put my finger on it and it's only a little warm. I can leave it there as long as I want.


DEI makes several other types of wraps and heat shielding fabrics that would work as well, to varying degrees. Some are like a fiber/nomex weave similar to header wrap, but adhesive backed and with an aluminized foil layer on the other side. Anything like that which reflects heat would help. You definitely to do something to protect the MC from high temps and keep the fluid cool.
I think that's what I am going to do is build a aluminum box around the MC and wrap it. I really don't have a whole lot of options with as close the downpipe will come to the MC. It's just another one of those things that you don't think of ahead of time until its right in your face.
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Old 09-18-2012, 07:35 PM   #79
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Yes, we believe you are that dumb. You previous decisions/comments have proven this.

LOL you're funny?
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Old 09-19-2012, 06:48 PM   #80
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All you may need is a alunimun shield and you could use the 2 bolts on the top of the rear manifold for a mounting position
along with what Aaron suggested should be enough
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