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Old 02-09-2013, 12:25 AM   #301
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a normal ole everyday jack stand being used under the car to hold it up....better?
No deobfuscation necessary, it was clear enough, just distracted by the coincidental repetition of terms.
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Old 02-09-2013, 06:47 AM   #302
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You can throw any jackstand that can hold the weight under any car... I've used the same set on my car that I've used on my folks' truck. It just means I have to jack my car that much higher
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Old 02-09-2013, 07:47 AM   #303
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What are good jack stands for a lowered car?
got a couple pair of these under my car. don't even have to raise the red part out of the base.. gives me enough room to move around under the car and roll over on my side without touching the bottom of the car.
Craftsman 3 ton High Lift Jack Stands
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-ton...p-00950159000P

then i took so old desks i had which are that compressed wood shit to make up the 2" that i lost when i lowered it since my jack wouldn't fit under the front anymore.

pretty sure this is the jack i ended up with. 4 ton floor jack. it's a 4ton jack that weighs 4 tons.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-4-ton...p-00950156000P

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You can throw any jackstand that can hold the weight under any car... I've used the same set on my car that I've used on my folks' truck. It just means I have to jack my car that much higher
sounds like the ones i got. iirc i got them on sale..
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Old 02-16-2013, 10:56 AM   #304
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If slotted AND drilled rotors are so bad and don't last as long as one or the other, why do so many expensive cars and supers cars have them?
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Old 02-16-2013, 06:19 PM   #305
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Because racekarz!




nah, I think it's an aesthetic thing
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no sht it's spreading like a disease..and you guys aren't even picking decent cars to turn into garage queens..
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the resulting violent shake at highway speed may cause loss of control, white knuckles, loss of dental fillings, urinary incontinence and sudden religious conversion.
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Old 02-20-2013, 01:10 PM   #306
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99 GAGT. I am trying to remove the fuse box under the hood on the drive side. I am putting in a system and at the moment I am stuck as to where to run the power cord. I know threw the fire wall/grommet. My problem is I can't get to the grommet I want to use because the fuse box won't budge. I've read about a clip and there's no clip. I've removed a bolt and its still not moving. ive been working on this for days! Help please.
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Old 02-20-2013, 01:44 PM   #307
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Quote:
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If slotted AND drilled rotors are so bad and don't last as long as one or the other, why do so many expensive cars and supers cars have them?
My drilled / slotted rotors on my camaro have about 35k on them, recently started getting real minor shaking when I step on the pedal, I would consider 35k pretty decent on this car.
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Old 02-20-2013, 06:43 PM   #308
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99 GAGT. I am trying to remove the fuse box under the hood on the drive side. I am putting in a system and at the moment I am stuck as to where to run the power cord. I know threw the fire wall/grommet. My problem is I can't get to the grommet I want to use because the fuse box won't budge. I've read about a clip and there's no clip. I've removed a bolt and its still not moving. ive been working on this for days! Help please.
Are you talking about running your amp wire through the firewall? Or just a key-hot for the head unit?
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no sht it's spreading like a disease..and you guys aren't even picking decent cars to turn into garage queens..
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the resulting violent shake at highway speed may cause loss of control, white knuckles, loss of dental fillings, urinary incontinence and sudden religious conversion.
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Old 02-21-2013, 07:57 AM   #309
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If slotted AND drilled rotors are so bad and don't last as long as one or the other, why do so many expensive cars and supers cars have them?
I don't know either. I got a super cheap set for the front and back on the alero from summit. At first they had to be broken in. Alot of grinding at first, but now a year later. They still work fine on the same pads.

ps
summit has brought them back. $44 for the back and $46 for the front. The pic is about 2 months ago before i did the hubs.
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I could be wrong, but if you keep clearing the code with the OBDII scanner, it will keep coming back until the problem is solved.

Last edited by rocketfast123; 02-21-2013 at 08:04 AM.
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Old 02-22-2013, 10:06 AM   #310
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Quote:
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If slotted AND drilled rotors are so bad and don't last as long as one or the other, why do so many expensive cars and supers cars have them?
They can serve a purpose on the right car, but for GA owners that aren't tracking, it's just for looks.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-p...ke-rotors1.htm
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Old 02-24-2013, 09:28 PM   #311
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From page ten of this thread:

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Originally Posted by Mad Scientist View Post

My power driver seat won't raise itself up. Motor spins but nothing happens. Whats wrong? Is it hard to fix? Is this problem common? Are the ones in the J.Y. likely to be bad too? If it's too big a PITA to fix, can I just reach under the seat and somehow spin something to raise it manually? I did a search and all I could find on the subject was a "...the gears are probably bad". Is this true? What are my options if it is? What else could be wrong?
Please, any info on the above post would be appreciated.

I went to the J.Y. today to get another unit but there doesn't seem to be any way to remove the damn thing without tearing the seat up in the process. There are two pins that have to be removed but you can't drive them out because the seat frame is in the way. The pins are bigger on one end which prevents them from going out the other way. Moving the rails forward or backwards doesn't help as that's not the part that is in the way. How do you remove this thing?

I could only find one spot where a person could operate the thing manually. It's at the end of the motor that is opposite of the gearbox. The problem with that location is that it is BEFORE the gearbox which is the part that is likely bad. So spinning that accomplishes absolutely nothing because all you are spinning is the motor. You haven't bypassed anything other than the motor, which I already know is fine.

Guys, I really need help on this. What do you do to get that seat raised back up?? Has anybody here dealt with this? Do these things break often? I'd settle for a Micky Mouse fix at this point!
Regards,
Eric

Last edited by Mad Scientist; 02-25-2013 at 04:50 AM.
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Old 02-25-2013, 08:25 PM   #312
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Dude, mine came back with that not working.. I haven't messed with it yet, or I'd tell you what I knew about it. My car is more a decoration around the house at this point , it hasn't gotten 3 miles put on it in the last month. Seriously, I have the progressive snapshot thing, it's 2.89 miles


What I was going to do, remove the seat, bring it inside, and then start dinking around with connections. I assume it's dirty, or the motor is out. I doubt much more can be wrong with it.
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no sht it's spreading like a disease..and you guys aren't even picking decent cars to turn into garage queens..
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the resulting violent shake at highway speed may cause loss of control, white knuckles, loss of dental fillings, urinary incontinence and sudden religious conversion.
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Old 02-26-2013, 06:00 PM   #313
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What's the purpose of strut bars
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Old 02-26-2013, 06:01 PM   #314
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extra rigidity across the top of the struts. helps keep the body stiffer i guess is the easiest way to explain it
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no sht it's spreading like a disease..and you guys aren't even picking decent cars to turn into garage queens..
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the resulting violent shake at highway speed may cause loss of control, white knuckles, loss of dental fillings, urinary incontinence and sudden religious conversion.
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Old 02-26-2013, 06:19 PM   #315
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Ok another question I've heard of throttle cables loosening over time therefore reducing pedal response. Is there a way to tighten or check throttle cables on a ga? If so how?
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Old 02-26-2013, 07:27 PM   #316
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Quote:
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Ok another question I've heard of throttle cables loosening over time therefore reducing pedal response. Is there a way to tighten or check throttle cables on a ga? If so how?
if throttle response is your concern, there is a "set screw" on the throttle body. you know how you can press down on the throttle cable linkage thingy and rev the engine from under the hood? and when you take your finger off it closes itself by a spring. well just look at where it makes contact and stops, not allowing it to close any further. that contact point is a set screw or nut and bolt.

tinkering with that setting even a little bit can cause you to have a high idle, or maybe stall the engine from too low idle.
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Old 02-26-2013, 07:30 PM   #317
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I don't see that being a concern on these motors, but I'm not the expert on that by a longshot. I don't think there is enough tension to stretch that cable enough to cause any real slack..


*cue someone to prove me wrong now
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no sht it's spreading like a disease..and you guys aren't even picking decent cars to turn into garage queens..
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the resulting violent shake at highway speed may cause loss of control, white knuckles, loss of dental fillings, urinary incontinence and sudden religious conversion.
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Old 02-26-2013, 07:32 PM   #318
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I don't see that being a concern on these motors, but I'm not the expert on that by a longshot. I don't think there is enough tension to stretch that cable enough to cause any real slack..
Cool just wanted to make sure.
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Old 02-26-2013, 07:34 PM   #319
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Yea, but check back in, that stuff looks to be about the size of bicycle cable, and it does stretch, but then again, the heat may soften it up..

can you lay your finger on there and move the cable without moving the throttle linkage?
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no sht it's spreading like a disease..and you guys aren't even picking decent cars to turn into garage queens..
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the resulting violent shake at highway speed may cause loss of control, white knuckles, loss of dental fillings, urinary incontinence and sudden religious conversion.
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Old 02-26-2013, 07:37 PM   #320
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I'll try that in the morning then against maybe i shouldn't tinker with this car still have a lot of stuff to fix before I start trying to go faster but I will look into it more coop.
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