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Old 04-14-2013, 03:07 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AaronGTR View Post
Yeah, helicoil might work. Also, if you have a thread tap you can drill and tap the holes deeper. I did that with mine because the bolts they used in the original SC kit didn't go all the way in the holes. I drilled and tapped them all the way through the UIM flange and bought some longer bolts to go in there. That way there is less chance of stripping them.

Might want to do that either way, whether you use a helicoil or get a new mani, or both.
I would try Aarons way first, a little less involved and if you can go deep enough to get a few threads, that would be sufficient enough.

In a month or so I can get a plenum powdercoated white for ya if your looking for one. I don't know if yours is ported or anything, but if it isn't then we can make something work.
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Old 04-15-2013, 09:08 PM   #22
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I went ahead and snagged a good UIM from Pull-A-Part for $10. It was off of a 99 GT HO. I think I got it off the engine in 10 mins... .

One of the guys working there was like.. " Damn.. you know what you're doing." so I told him I've pull the UIM off a GA a good many times...

I went w/ the whole UIM because ALL of my flanges are cracked...



I need to go back and snag the steering wheel since it has radio controls on it...
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Old 04-15-2013, 09:26 PM   #23
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You might as well get the clockspring too Some have different connectors from 99 to 02+
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Old 04-15-2013, 09:44 PM   #24
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I went ahead and snagged a good UIM from Pull-A-Part for $10. It was off of a 99 GT HO. I think I got it off the engine in 10 mins... .

One of the guys working there was like.. " Damn.. you know what you're doing." so I told him I've pull the UIM off a GA a good many times...

I went w/ the whole UIM because ALL of my flanges are cracked...



I need to go back and snag the steering wheel since it has radio controls on it...
i got a wheel you can have, just pick it up when you drive through.
you will need your clockspring and cruise control

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Old 04-16-2013, 10:54 AM   #25
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Works for me..
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Old 04-16-2013, 11:33 AM   #26
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Quote:
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I went ahead and snagged a good UIM from Pull-A-Part for $10. It was off of a 99 GT HO. I think I got it off the engine in 10 mins... .
l
do you still have the egr setup on your car because if you dd the way the 99 one bolts to the manifold is completely different than the 00+ setup. functions the same but the egr and egr pipe mount is different.

should have stuck with the 00+ upper intake setup. since see the pic below that little indent translates into a shelf inside the neck.
http://imageshack.us/a/img207/1751/untitled12kr0.jpg

the two side by side
http://imageshack.us/a/img201/1653/untitled1zh4.jpg
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Well you shouldn't have left your laptop exposed when there was a chance of golden showers...

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Old 04-16-2013, 03:14 PM   #27
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Oh Fudge....

itty ...

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Oh, and I'm now house trained, so no more urinary issues to worry about.

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Old 04-17-2013, 05:27 AM   #28
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OK Geldartb.... Does the EGR hose connect to the EGR the same way?
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Old 04-17-2013, 07:19 AM   #29
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bolting the exhaust manifold yes. bolting to the intake manifold no.

the one on the 00+ bolts to the manifold with 1 bolt. the 99 and older one bolts to the intake with 2 bolts. the physical mount on the intake side is completely different..

99 setup number 10


00+ pipe


one good thing the plug on the engine harness is the same between the two.
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Old 04-18-2013, 07:26 PM   #30
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Finally got a correct plenum and the inlet running to the EGR had gunk in it and the opening itself was stopped up w/ carbon or whatever. I know when I took the EGR off, it had water or whatever come out of it.

I used some MAF cleaner to clear it up and got most of it. I need to spray more into it. Still getting some gunk out. Would blowing some compressed air into it help out?
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Old 04-18-2013, 07:30 PM   #31
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You can use a tooth brush to get in there, that works well. Just don't brush your teeth with it.
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Old 04-18-2013, 07:32 PM   #32
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That stuff was hard. I had to use a screwdriver to break it loose. I guess they can get severely clogged. One of the clerks at Advanced said he had one do that too.
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Old 04-18-2013, 07:38 PM   #33
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Hmmm, sounds really built up. I take it, it has never been cleaned before?

Try some carb cleaner and a wire brush, that should do the trick.
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Old 04-18-2013, 07:44 PM   #34
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Yep. Been working on it..
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Old 04-19-2013, 05:06 AM   #35
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Quote:
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That stuff was hard. I had to use a screwdriver to break it loose. I guess they can get severely clogged. One of the clerks at Advanced said he had one do that too.
back with my old 3100 in the Z26 i used a coat hanger to clean the hard stuff out.

with the older style egr's like the ones on around 1995 3100 cars it was kinda common to have that plugged up with crap. usually if it threw the egr code that was the problem.
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Old 04-19-2013, 03:21 PM   #36
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Yeah, they get so built up with carbon deposits like that because the PCV inlet is directly across from it at the top of the UIM neck. It drips oil down there which gets burned by the hot exhaust gas coming through the EGR and turns into carbon deposits. That's why I recommend installing a catch can in the PCV line. It will cut down on that quite a bit.
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Old 04-20-2013, 02:54 PM   #37
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Got everything fixed.

No more whistling from the air leak because I wasn't able to tighten the bolt correctly and causing me to get a lean code and making the engine run rough.

Dealt w/ this for a wk now...
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Old 04-20-2013, 06:10 PM   #38
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Glad its done. It gets to be a real pain to deal with sometimes.
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Old 04-20-2013, 08:25 PM   #39
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Yeah. The sad thing was that the UIM I took off was ported... :-(
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Old 04-20-2013, 10:04 PM   #40
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Also on your steering wheel swap, since I did that a few months back, I was able to remove the old clockspring and all its wires, and install the new one without removing the dash, only the gauge cluster and its backing plate, makes it a lot quicker job.
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