4T45E Guru's here?

zukiracer19 · 05-16-2013, 02:36 PM

Ok... got car back.. I noticed a lot of things... (swapped with a 78K transmission with warranty).

One... Misfire like a mofo, New plugs, wires, the whole shabang. ( I WANT THIS CAR GONE) still idling hard, I did have a code but the guy at advanced auto reset it and completely forgot what it was. Damnit. I'm sure it will pop up after the cycle on mileage. I do know I'm only getting 14-16 mpgs though

My question to you is... Does the transmission module located at top of transmission have a vacuum line?

This was a blocking nipple to it.. not sure if our transmissions need a vacuum line to there.

Now ... Right below the MAP sensor lying behind the coils, there is a orange, blue and black box... with the FPR vacuum hose going to it... and a connector... and the other side on mine has nothing just an open hole? this is all old so I can't remember last time i had the car apart how it was...

zukiracer19 · 05-16-2013, 02:52 PM

Forgot to add, Car doesn't have any power like it did before I put this transmission in, Can't decide what gear to stay in/or just falling out of gear, will not shift under full load just stayed revved up.(Shifts smoothly thought without having to accelerate hard)

I also think the code I had has to do with O2S Malfunction possibly? Guy at advanced said it sounds like a really big vacuum leak past the MAF that its not metering right and throwing it off...

AaronGTR · 05-16-2013, 04:23 PM

Got a pic of this orange/blue/black box thing? Shouldn't be anything there that I know of. There should be a vacuum line coming off the back of the UIM that has a "T" going to the MAP sensor, then a tube comes off the back and goes up to the FPR. Shouldn't be any holes or anything no hooked up, otherwise you'll have a bad vacuum leak.

And no, there is no vacuum line going to the trans on these cars. They are completely electronically controlled.

O1GAGT · 05-16-2013, 04:50 PM

That is just a vent that is on the gear selector/neutral safety switch.

zukiracer19 · 05-16-2013, 04:55 PM

nvm it was just the connector pin, its underneath the map behind coil pack.

zukiracer19 · 05-16-2013, 05:03 PM

Like after driving for a bit if I shut my car off it will die without gas. I opened oil cap and engine died. I replaced pcv valve now car doesn't shut off when taking oil cap off... but still idles bad

jackal2000 · 05-16-2013, 05:56 PM

Maybe a crankshaft variation relearn?

Quote:

A crankshaft variation relearn must be performed if:
A diagnostic trouble code of P1336 is present.
The computer has been replaced or re-programmed.
The crankshaft position sensor has been replaced.
The engine, harmonic balancer, clutch, or flywheel have been: disassembled, removed, or replaced

This article also says that you may want to manually shift the transmission for the first few gear changes.

http://www.bsecorp.com/files/techtips/ST9303l.pdf

T50 · 05-16-2013, 06:40 PM

Is it still misfiring? I see from the picture you still have orig coil packs, those can cause misfires

zukiracer19 · 05-16-2013, 06:56 PM

Still had the original plugs and wires too haha but car has 119000. I bought it in 07 with 65000

zukiracer19 · 05-17-2013, 04:57 AM

The code had to do with o2s. Something with heat. I do notice car heats up very fast then stays at 180 unless I get in traffic then it goes a quarter way over 200... no leaks in oil or external and I bled the line. Low coolant light stays on after I replaced it and is always up to line

sleepyalero · 05-17-2013, 07:35 AM

The heat is normal, on a nice warm day in traffic (before 6 speed and tune with fans to kick on to keep car around 180*) my car would go between the middle and 3/4 mark. If your fans aren't kicking on I wouldn't worry to much. Fans stock are set to kick on at like..... 230 something?

zukiracer19 · 05-17-2013, 03:32 PM

Yeah fan kicks in on mine around there.. but It amazes me how much power loss it has just from trans swap... im wondering if they bumped a vacuum hose off somewhere?

kzulfic · 05-17-2013, 03:42 PM

Still the original catalytic converter?

zukiracer19 · 05-17-2013, 03:45 PM

I took it off before turbo... had a open cutout... then put stock cat back in... car has been turboed most of its life since i've had it.

sleepyalero · 05-17-2013, 03:51 PM

how come ive never seen pics of this turbo build.

kzulfic · 05-17-2013, 04:01 PM

Are you positive you don't have some plug wires crossed?

zukiracer19 · 05-17-2013, 04:04 PM

pics:

zukiracer19 · 05-17-2013, 04:05 PM

Yeah, it did this before plug wires were changed thats why i changed them.

zukiracer19 · 05-17-2013, 04:07 PM

& it's not as rough of an idle as it would if they were crossed. But you can still feel the misfire... but car literally has no power... I can step on it and it moves like a 1989 4 cyl cavalier.

kzulfic · 05-17-2013, 04:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zukiracer19

Yeah, it did this before plug wires were changed thats why i changed them.

Ok, did you follow the way they were when you got it back, or a diagram of the firing order?

05-16-2013, 02:36 PM	#1
zukiracer19 BoOsTiN' AKA: slograndam Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: State College, PA Posts: 2,700 Vehicle: ev0m0de	4T45E Guru's here? Ok... got car back.. I noticed a lot of things... (swapped with a 78K transmission with warranty). One... Misfire like a mofo, New plugs, wires, the whole shabang. ( I WANT THIS CAR GONE) still idling hard, I did have a code but the guy at advanced auto reset it and completely forgot what it was. Damnit. I'm sure it will pop up after the cycle on mileage. I do know I'm only getting 14-16 mpgs though My question to you is... Does the transmission module located at top of transmission have a vacuum line? This was a blocking nipple to it.. not sure if our transmissions need a vacuum line to there. Now ... Right below the MAP sensor lying behind the coils, there is a orange, blue and black box... with the FPR vacuum hose going to it... and a connector... and the other side on mine has nothing just an open hole? this is all old so I can't remember last time i had the car apart how it was...

05-16-2013, 02:52 PM	#2
zukiracer19 BoOsTiN' AKA: slograndam Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: State College, PA Posts: 2,700 Vehicle: ev0m0de	Forgot to add, Car doesn't have any power like it did before I put this transmission in, Can't decide what gear to stay in/or just falling out of gear, will not shift under full load just stayed revved up.(Shifts smoothly thought without having to accelerate hard) I also think the code I had has to do with O2S Malfunction possibly? Guy at advanced said it sounds like a really big vacuum leak past the MAF that its not metering right and throwing it off... Last edited by zukiracer19; 05-16-2013 at 03:00 PM.

05-16-2013, 04:23 PM	#3
AaronGTR BlingWithBallz AKA: Aaron Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Detroit area, MI Age: 43 Posts: 12,254 Vehicle: 2000 Grand Am GT1 2dr	Got a pic of this orange/blue/black box thing? Shouldn't be anything there that I know of. There should be a vacuum line coming off the back of the UIM that has a "T" going to the MAP sensor, then a tube comes off the back and goes up to the FPR. Shouldn't be any holes or anything no hooked up, otherwise you'll have a bad vacuum leak. And no, there is no vacuum line going to the trans on these cars. They are completely electronically controlled. __________________ The few, the proud, the boosted! 13.788 @ 103.73 mph (3/2011) 320 whp and 300 ft/lbs torque. (3/2011) See it here. the total package.

05-16-2013, 04:50 PM	#4
O1GAGT GAGT - Senior Member AKA: Phil Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Fort Wayne, IN Age: 37 Posts: 1,107 Vehicle: 2001 Grand Am GT Coupe	That is just a vent that is on the gear selector/neutral safety switch. Attached Thumbnails __________________ "The world's best cam combined with a poor set of heads will produce an engine that's a dog. But bolt on a set of great heads even with a poor cam, and that engine will still make great power." ~John Lingenfelter

05-17-2013, 07:35 AM	#11
sleepyalero ▂ ▃ ▅ ▆ █ ▆ ▅ ▃ ▂ AKA: Nathan Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Unknown. Posts: 5,911 Vehicle: 2001 olds alero GLS	The heat is normal, on a nice warm day in traffic (before 6 speed and tune with fans to kick on to keep car around 180*) my car would go between the middle and 3/4 mark. If your fans aren't kicking on I wouldn't worry to much. Fans stock are set to kick on at like..... 230 something? __________________ 2001 \| Alero GLS \| 3400 \| 6MT 2012 BMW S1000RR, full exhaust, BRENTUNE, power commander 5, dyno tune, 198WHP.

05-16-2013, 04:55 PM	#5
zukiracer19 BoOsTiN' AKA: slograndam Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: State College, PA Posts: 2,700 Vehicle: ev0m0de	nvm it was just the connector pin, its underneath the map behind coil pack.

05-16-2013, 05:03 PM	#6
zukiracer19 BoOsTiN' AKA: slograndam Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: State College, PA Posts: 2,700 Vehicle: ev0m0de	Like after driving for a bit if I shut my car off it will die without gas. I opened oil cap and engine died. I replaced pcv valve now car doesn't shut off when taking oil cap off... but still idles bad

05-16-2013, 06:40 PM	#8
T50 GAGT - Newbie AKA: Tim Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: a-town, wis Posts: 23 Vehicle: 2002 GAGT	Is it still misfiring? I see from the picture you still have orig coil packs, those can cause misfires

05-16-2013, 06:56 PM	#9
zukiracer19 BoOsTiN' AKA: slograndam Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: State College, PA Posts: 2,700 Vehicle: ev0m0de	Still had the original plugs and wires too haha but car has 119000. I bought it in 07 with 65000

05-17-2013, 04:57 AM	#10
zukiracer19 BoOsTiN' AKA: slograndam Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: State College, PA Posts: 2,700 Vehicle: ev0m0de	The code had to do with o2s. Something with heat. I do notice car heats up very fast then stays at 180 unless I get in traffic then it goes a quarter way over 200... no leaks in oil or external and I bled the line. Low coolant light stays on after I replaced it and is always up to line

05-17-2013, 03:32 PM	#12
zukiracer19 BoOsTiN' AKA: slograndam Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: State College, PA Posts: 2,700 Vehicle: ev0m0de	Yeah fan kicks in on mine around there.. but It amazes me how much power loss it has just from trans swap... im wondering if they bumped a vacuum hose off somewhere?

05-17-2013, 03:42 PM	#13
kzulfic GAGT - Senior Member AKA: Kameron Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Genoa, IL Age: 33 Posts: 1,116 Vehicle: 2004 Grand Am SE2	Still the original catalytic converter?

05-17-2013, 03:45 PM	#14
zukiracer19 BoOsTiN' AKA: slograndam Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: State College, PA Posts: 2,700 Vehicle: ev0m0de	I took it off before turbo... had a open cutout... then put stock cat back in... car has been turboed most of its life since i've had it.

05-17-2013, 03:51 PM	#15
sleepyalero ▂ ▃ ▅ ▆ █ ▆ ▅ ▃ ▂ AKA: Nathan Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Unknown. Posts: 5,911 Vehicle: 2001 olds alero GLS	how come ive never seen pics of this turbo build. __________________ 2001 \| Alero GLS \| 3400 \| 6MT 2012 BMW S1000RR, full exhaust, BRENTUNE, power commander 5, dyno tune, 198WHP.

05-17-2013, 04:01 PM	#16
kzulfic GAGT - Senior Member AKA: Kameron Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Genoa, IL Age: 33 Posts: 1,116 Vehicle: 2004 Grand Am SE2	Are you positive you don't have some plug wires crossed?

05-17-2013, 04:04 PM	#17
zukiracer19 BoOsTiN' AKA: slograndam Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: State College, PA Posts: 2,700 Vehicle: ev0m0de	pics:

05-17-2013, 04:05 PM	#18
zukiracer19 BoOsTiN' AKA: slograndam Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: State College, PA Posts: 2,700 Vehicle: ev0m0de	Yeah, it did this before plug wires were changed thats why i changed them.

05-17-2013, 04:07 PM	#19
zukiracer19 BoOsTiN' AKA: slograndam Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: State College, PA Posts: 2,700 Vehicle: ev0m0de	& it's not as rough of an idle as it would if they were crossed. But you can still feel the misfire... but car literally has no power... I can step on it and it moves like a 1989 4 cyl cavalier.

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