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Old 05-25-2013, 05:40 PM   #2121
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isnt 5w for winter?
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Old 05-25-2013, 05:42 PM   #2122
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not nowdays, 5w30 is what your car should have in it. it's factory spec.

the 5.4 in de earld ferd is 5.30 and can do 5w20, that's whats in it now, 16 year old truck, ford says it's ok... idk. the kia is 5/20 also. all factory specs
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no sht it's spreading like a disease..and you guys aren't even picking decent cars to turn into garage queens..
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the resulting violent shake at highway speed may cause loss of control, white knuckles, loss of dental fillings, urinary incontinence and sudden religious conversion.
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Old 05-25-2013, 06:06 PM   #2123
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TD where did you buy the borla and how much did you pay if you dont mind me asking
Bought it from pfyc for $756 shipped. Got here in a little over half a day
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Old 05-25-2013, 06:06 PM   #2124
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from my understanding you usually run 5w for colder weather cause it flows better, 10w in summer
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Old 05-25-2013, 06:09 PM   #2125
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isnt 5w for winter?
Nope. Modern oil is multi-viscosity. Basically, 5W-20 is 5 when it's cold and 20 when warmed up, in the utmost of a basic explanation.

Don't tell me you use 10W-30 in yours... -__-
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Old 05-25-2013, 06:17 PM   #2126
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Na, he use 15w40.

Because diesel.
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Old 05-25-2013, 06:55 PM   #2127
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@Kam

with the valleys in the engine, you really don't want to run a too thick number on the startup viscosity, so your cap says 5, or your book says 5, unless over 100* ambient temps and then it says 10- is okay, then run that. the old days of switching back and forth are long gone.

the tolerances are so tight, you don't have to run the thicker oil in the summer to gap fill to make up for leakage/burnoff, and you can do more harm than good running oil that is too thick.

but for no more than yours is run, your oil probably is like jelly anyways bub
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no sht it's spreading like a disease..and you guys aren't even picking decent cars to turn into garage queens..
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the resulting violent shake at highway speed may cause loss of control, white knuckles, loss of dental fillings, urinary incontinence and sudden religious conversion.

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Old 05-25-2013, 07:08 PM   #2128
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Bingo. I laugh at people throwing 10W-40, 15W-40 and 20W-50 in modern engines. I mean, how stupid are you?
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Old 05-25-2013, 07:27 PM   #2129
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Bingo. I laugh at people throwing 10W-40, 15W-40 and 20W-50 in modern engines. I mean, how stupid are you?
Modern diesel engines use 15-w40.
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Old 05-25-2013, 07:59 PM   #2130
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well i must certainly say.....
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Old 05-25-2013, 08:07 PM   #2131
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I was thinking about doing a 10/30 trial for the summer, due to the truck burning a little of this 5/20, but then realized that it isn't going to do me any good, and 5/30 will be fine. Ford released some bulletin about using the 5/20 for better fuel mileage, (but then the motors started using some oil with the lighter oil in it, imagine that) and for no more fuel than it's saved me, if it's gonna burn it, I'll just switch back and lose that .001% I gained on lighter oil
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the resulting violent shake at highway speed may cause loss of control, white knuckles, loss of dental fillings, urinary incontinence and sudden religious conversion.
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Old 05-25-2013, 08:15 PM   #2132
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ive used 5 but is it really technically bad to run 10w-30 in summer weather?
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Old 05-25-2013, 08:19 PM   #2133
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that is your "cold thickness"

as I was told, at cold startup, there is a 5 second difference to bottom to top of the motor, but I don't remember specific temp range and all that, so it isn't so much going to blow up your motor, but your motor was designed for 5w on startup in most temp ranges, so that's what we're supposed to use.

absolute worst case, you could starve the top half of the engine from oil, and you know what that would do. it's just not necessary to flip flop anymore, the engines have developed, and the oil has developed to the point that it's not necessary
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the resulting violent shake at highway speed may cause loss of control, white knuckles, loss of dental fillings, urinary incontinence and sudden religious conversion.
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Old 05-25-2013, 08:24 PM   #2134
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thanks for that.
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Old 05-25-2013, 08:30 PM   #2135
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Ya man, I'm in Iowa, so it's literally anywhere from -10 to 120 here, before windchill or heat index, so it takes all kinds, and I just run the manufacturer's recommendations in everything, and have never had a problem, back in high school, my buddy's old 79 chevy, the ol' tree-fiddy, it went back and forth, but it was 10/30 winter and 10/40 summer. so it just stayed a little thicker when it was warm out... but that's 1979 engine.


I'm waiting for Aaron to come in and blow apart everything I know about oil any second
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Old 05-25-2013, 08:53 PM   #2136
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Run 5w30 year round with -40* up to about 105*. However i'm burning about a quart by 3k so maybe some 10w30 or 5w40 (do they make that) would help?????
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Old 05-25-2013, 08:54 PM   #2137
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hahaha yeah he might pop in!
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Old 05-25-2013, 09:25 PM   #2138
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The first number is cold weight.

So 5 is sort of how fast the cold oil can start circulating the system.

the last number is hot weight... so the thicker it is, the more heat it can transfer and the better it can protect...basically.

however, that oil has to go through little galleys in the engine, and it is designed (for the 3.4) for 5w30, so it will support 30 as the last number when it's warm.

in THEORY you could run 30w in it, straight weight, there is room in the engine for it to flow WHEN ITS WARM, so if you kept the engine at 180* or up (near operating temp), it would be fine.

So the 0-30 vs 5-30 vs 10-30 is all cold temp difference, or how well the oil flows at cold temps. Remember, Mike Jung runs Mobil1 0-30 due to the extreme cold up in the great white north, so when it's really cold, the oil gets up and lubricates quickly, and as it warms, it thickens, and is 30 weight.

If you wanted warm weather protection, you'd want 5-40, so at startup the oil gets to where it needs to be, and then it runs thicker once warm, at a 40 weight rather than 30, which our engine is NOT designed to flow, it can burn up the sending unit, pump, seals, gaskets, not flow correctly through the internal galleys and you can lose a motor over it. it's pretty unlikely, but running the wrong weight is bad.
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Old 05-25-2013, 10:49 PM   #2139
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Old 05-25-2013, 11:03 PM   #2140
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Dat noob post, tho.
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