G.I.Ceo's Turbo Build!

[AaronGTR]

Originally Posted by G.I.Ceo

What I was told is that it was the crankshaft sprocket. I guess that the chain wont seat all the way on the sprocket which will cause it to skip a tooth every once in awhile causing the damage that's shown in the video. I guess they are saying that the crankshaft sprocket is cut wrong.

The one he's holding in the video that has the problem is the cam sprocket though.

[sleepyalero]

Gi ceo check prev page please for a pic of mine.

[G.I.Ceo]

Well finished the build last night and now sitting down to start tuning it. I'm hoping to be able to run it today.

[blckgagt]

Anxiously waiting!

[bricooper78]

Vids!!!! Vids Vids vids vids vids VIDEEEEEOOOO!!!!!

[G.I.Ceo]

I will post videos of it as soon as I have it out of my garage and cleaned up. I did a little tuning to it today to get it ready to fire up but had somethings come up. Hopefully here in the next few days I will have it tuned enough to at least get it movable. Here is some pics though of it from last night.

[Black&Red01]

Looks amazing man very nice work!

[sleepyalero]

Fantastic man.

[AaronGTR]

Not bad. The I/C piping routing is pretty good. Not too sure on how some things are going to work with how you placed them though. I mean, everything should work properly, but a couple things might not be "ideal".

With the space you are using running the piping from the other side of the I/C back to the engine, I think you could have just got a taller I/C with a divided core and both inlet/outlet on the same end. Not sure if those are readily available or if it would have had to be custom and/or cost you more money, but it would have given you more I/C volume and surface area with shorter piping for better response.

Also, it's good that the BOV is before the MAF sensor so things will read correctly and you won't have any fueling issues, but with where you placed them, you are going to have to take off your bumper or get under the car and remove splashed shields and stuff if you need to get to either one of them or adjust the BOV. Could be inconvenient. I would have made them more accessible. Also I'm not sure how placing the BOV before the I/C and that far from the throttle plate is going to affect it's response. It might have been better to place the MAF sensor in the engine bay and put the BOV still in front of that, but behind the I/C and closer to the TB?

Anyway those are my ideas. I think it should still perform very well though. We'll see when you get it started.

[GT_turbo]

The welds on your IC piping look very neat! Your whole setup is awesome, you should be very proud.

[G.I.Ceo]

Originally Posted by GT_turbo

The welds on your IC piping look very neat! Your whole setup is awesome, you should be very proud.

Oh trust me I am. It came out better then expected. I took a lot of time and I paid attention to every little detail.

I have the tuning file completed just have to load it in and trying to run it. I would be lying if I said I wasn't nervous right now.

[tipnitty]

Do you have a blanket for the hot side?

[O1GAGT]

Originally Posted by G.I.Ceo

Oh trust me I am. It came out better then expected. I took a lot of time and I paid attention to every little detail.

I have the tuning file completed just have to load it in and trying to run it. I would be lying if I said I wasn't nervous right now.

So did she fire up and run or blow up?
I know what you mean about the first start up, makes me nervous every time.

[G.I.Ceo]

Originally Posted by O1GAGT

So did she fire up and run or blow up?
I know what you mean about the first start up, makes me nervous every time.

I'm having a issue with getting the fuel pressure under control. The first day I could only get 10psi at most. I took the pump out and redid somethings and that worked. But now my fuel pressure gauge goes full 65psi as soon as I turn on the key and as soon as my relay in my fuse box clicks I lose pressure almost as fast as I got it. So I'm thinking from adjusting my FPR so much that it has finally blown the internal diaphragm and now it isn't holding pressure anymore. The FPR is the old school Casper one that sits on top of a stock FPR.

[AleroB888]

Originally Posted by G.I.Ceo

I'm having a issue with getting the fuel pressure under control. The first day I could only get 10psi at most. I took the pump out and redid somethings and that worked. But now my fuel pressure gauge goes full 65psi as soon as I turn on the key and as soon as my relay in my fuse box clicks I lose pressure almost as fast as I got it. So I'm thinking from adjusting my FPR so much that it has finally blown the internal diaphragm and now it isn't holding pressure anymore. The FPR is the old school Casper one that sits on top of a stock FPR.

You can use a stock one by itself if you have to, just use a later model w/45 psi
at idle.

And you need to have the pump relay closer to the pump, and upgraded wiring if you didn't already.

[ItsMeScottG]

Originally Posted by G.I.Ceo

I will post videos of it as soon as I have it out of my garage and cleaned up. I did a little tuning to it today to get it ready to fire up but had somethings come up. Hopefully here in the next few days I will have it tuned enough to at least get it movable. Here is some pics though of it from last night.

That setup looks super clean, keep up the good work.

[G.I.Ceo]

Originally Posted by AleroB888

You can use a stock one by itself if you have to, just use a later model w/45 psi
at idle.

And you need to have the pump relay closer to the pump, and upgraded wiring if you didn't already.

I put the stock FPR back in and now the pressure is right. The issue though is when I turn the key on I get perfect pressure but as soon as the relay clicks I loose pressure right away. When I bought the Racetronix fuel pump I did buy the wiring kit too which is installed feeding it power. I'm hoping the relay is just bad and not something messed up with the pump. If the pump is messed up I will send it in and then buy a Aeromotive stealth one.

[AaronGTR]

Originally Posted by G.I.Ceo

I'm having a issue with getting the fuel pressure under control. The first day I could only get 10psi at most. I took the pump out and redid somethings and that worked. But now my fuel pressure gauge goes full 65psi as soon as I turn on the key and as soon as my relay in my fuse box clicks I lose pressure almost as fast as I got it. So I'm thinking from adjusting my FPR so much that it has finally blown the internal diaphragm and now it isn't holding pressure anymore. The FPR is the old school Casper one that sits on top of a stock FPR.

That's strange. You still have a check valve right? What are you running for the fuel pump setup? The stock assembly has a built in check valve. If the regulator is holding pressure I wouldn't think it would let it bled off that fast when the pump turns off but I suppose it's possible.

Originally Posted by AleroB888

You can use a stock one by itself if you have to, just use a later model w/45 psi
at idle.

And you need to have the pump relay closer to the pump, and upgraded wiring if you didn't already.

Stock late model fpr's are 48psi at idle. Anyway he could use a stock one to see what's going on. It wouldn't be ideal, especially if he's running a different cam and the vacuum has changed (necessitating a fuel pressure adjustment), but at least it would rule out the regulator as the problem.

[AaronGTR]

Originally Posted by G.I.Ceo

I put the stock FPR back in and now the pressure is right. The issue though is when I turn the key on I get perfect pressure but as soon as the relay clicks I loose pressure right away. When I bought the Racetronix fuel pump I did buy the wiring kit too which is installed feeding it power. I'm hoping the relay is just bad and not something messed up with the pump. If the pump is messed up I will send it in and then buy a Aeromotive stealth one.

got that in while I was typing a reply. upgraded wiring isn't really a necessity, but not a bad idea since the pump is upgraded to. I don't think the relay is the problem though. Its supposed to shut off. I think you probably don't have a check valve installed. Might have to buy an aftermarket one and put it in the fuel supply line.

[sleepyalero]

Originally Posted by G.I.Ceo

I put the stock FPR back in and now the pressure is right. The issue though is when I turn the key on I get perfect pressure but as soon as the relay clicks I loose pressure right away. When I bought the Racetronix fuel pump I did buy the wiring kit too which is installed feeding it power. I'm hoping the relay is just bad and not something messed up with the pump. If the pump is messed up I will send it in and then buy a Aeromotive stealth one.

I plan on getting an aeromotive pump as well.

Hope everything works out for you.