Ac compressor delete?

[HenryM]

Because of the belt routing configuration, you can't just eliminate the compressor, Napa sells a pulley/bracket bypass for the 3.4 V6 for about $50.00 part number is 660-1853. Any Napa should be able to help you out.

[sleepyalero]

Originally Posted by HenryM

Because of the belt routing configuration, you can't just eliminate the compressor, Napa sells a pulley/bracket bypass for the 3.4 V6 for about $50.00 part number is 660-1853. Any Napa should be able to help you out.

Uhhh actually you can... The compressor pulley is gone and there is nothing in place of it. Im running a shorter belt and a different lower idler pulley so it does work. Maybe you should read through the how to thats linked on page 1.

[geldartb]

Originally Posted by sleepyalero

Well its all out, car runs great. Car seems to rev a little faster without it,

unless your pulley on the compressor was starting to seize it should have had no effect when the ac was off because it's basically and idler pulley when the ac is off.

Originally Posted by HenryM

Because of the belt routing configuration, you can't just eliminate the compressor, Napa sells a pulley/bracket bypass for the 3.4 V6 for about $50.00 part number is 660-1853. Any Napa should be able to help you out.

already went through this and read the how to i posted on the previous page..

replace a smooth pulley with a ribbed one and buy a shorter belt and your good to go. if the compressor seized up on the road you could eliminate it belt routing wise and be on your way in like 15 minutes while still leaving the compressor on the car.

[sleepyalero]

Maybe so, guess im just stupid.

[geldartb]

Originally Posted by sleepyalero

Maybe so, guess im just stupid.

about what did i miss something..

[sleepyalero]

The "faster rev"

[geldartb]

how freely did the pulley on the compressor spin. like if you spin it by hand does it have massive drag,

[sleepyalero]

Has a small drag. Not much but not as free as others

[HenryM]

Originally Posted by sleepyalero

Uhhh actually you can... The compressor pulley is gone and there is nothing in place of it. Im running a shorter belt and a different lower idler pulley so it does work. Maybe you should read through the how to thats linked on page 1.

Thats all well and good if you want to BUY a shorter belt AND a pulley, which will run about $60 versus $40-50 if you don't buy the cheap crap. And thanks,,,did read it. But whatever....

[sleepyalero]

Originally Posted by HenryM

Thats all well and good if you want to BUY a shorter belt AND a pulley, which will run about $60 versus $40-50 if you don't buy the cheap crap. And thanks,,,did read it. But whatever....

Dude the new belt and pulley cost me 37$ after tax at autozone... pretty cheap.

[sleepyalero]

Well the 40$ bypass is cheaper because they go out in a month.

[The_Maniac]

Originally Posted by HenryM

Thats all well and good if you want to BUY a shorter belt AND a pulley, which will run about $60 versus $40-50 if you don't buy the cheap crap. And thanks,,,did read it. But whatever....

I just read up on doing the pulley sway and belt change last night. I can get the belt (Goodyear Gatorback belt at that) and pulley via RockAuto shipped to my door for $30. That's almost the cost of an original length belt bought at a local parts store!

I'm very tempted to do this on my Grand Am since it's my "winter beater", the A/C has not worked since I bought it nor do I have interest in fixing it and I don't know the age of the current belt.

Plus, if these compressors are like what I've seen with the 3100's, it's only matter of time until the compressor makes that "rattling" noise mentioned earlier.

[sleepyalero]

Originally Posted by The_Maniac

I just read up on doing the pulley sway and belt change last night. I can get the belt (Goodyear Gatorback belt at that) and pulley via RockAuto shipped to my door for $30. That's almost the cost of an original length belt bought at a local parts store!

I'm very tempted to do this on my Grand Am since it's my "winter beater", the A/C has not worked since I bought it nor do I have interest in fixing it and I don't know the age of the current belt.

Plus, if these compressors are like what I've seen with the 3100's, it's only matter of time until the compressor makes that "rattling" noise mentioned earlier.

Pretty simple you get a smaller belt and an idler pulley from a beretta and boom all is good and you have one less pulley

[H.O. Driver]

Originally Posted by HenryM

Because of the belt routing configuration, you can't just eliminate the compressor, Napa sells a pulley/bracket bypass for the 3.4 V6 for about $50.00 part number is 660-1853. Any Napa should be able to help you out.

I just saw this thread, I am glad the How-To is still helping people. The reason why I did the how-to is becuase I had originally bought the pully/bracket bypass only to only take it all apart to find out that the bolt holes on the bracket didn't line up with the bolt holes on the block. I wasn't about to drill/notch the thin walled alluminum bracket to make it work. I returned the part, got the belt and pulley I needed to re-route the belt and some cash back.

It was frustrating so I figured I would help others not go through the troubles I had. I bought the bracket in Gaylord, MI, tried to install it in Grand Rapids, MI. Returned it and got the other parks in Mt Clements, MI and then finished it in Alanson, MI once I got home. That was a fun three days, .

[sleepyalero]

Appreciate the how to, i got rid of something i dont use and have one less pulley in the system.

[geldartb]

that was the problem I ran into.. even with the compressor the bottom bolt hole didnt line up and neither did the bypass setup.. they must have changed something later in the years.. my engine is an 05

[Starglow]

Originally Posted by geldartb

that was the problem I ran into.. even with the compressor the bottom bolt hole didnt line up and neither did the bypass setup.. they must have changed something later in the years.. my engine is an 05

The spacer used on the top two compressor bolts makes the difference between the bottom bolt lining up or not lining up. There are two different size spacers.

[The_Maniac]

I finally did this little mod last Saturday. Took about 30 minutes to do, no issues, piece of cake. I still have the compressor and intend to remove it at a later date.

The Butt-Dyno does not notice any change in performance (and honestly, I did not expect a performance change). I went into this because I needed a new belt, I don't intend to fix the AC, so for how little this mod costs, made perfect sense. Because I wanted a GatorBack belt, it ran me $40 (otherwise, I coulda done it for $30).

Great write up. Thanks for sharing this info!

[sleepyalero]

Originally Posted by The_Maniac

I finally did this little mod last Saturday. Took about 30 minutes to do, no issues, piece of cake. I still have the compressor and intend to remove it at a later date.

The Butt-Dyno does not notice any change in performance (and honestly, I did not expect a performance change). I went into this because I needed a new belt, I don't intend to fix the AC, so for how little this mod costs, made perfect sense. Because I wanted a GatorBack belt, it ran me $40 (otherwise, I coulda done it for $30).

Great write up. Thanks for sharing this info!

Dyno might not show performance, yet it may give LITTLE performance thats not really noticable. Also if you remove everything like me, lines and all, it adds up to like 40lbs in weight.

Me i believe it gave me some benefit, my friend has an h23 swap from japan in his prelude.

Results in races were..

Me with no ac delete him with swap and no tune yet, i won.

Next he got a tune, i still had not removed ac, he won.

I removed ac, he has h23 swap with tune, i won.

Seems the ac delete helped me out a bit.

[Starglow]

I like to have AC...especially on a hot muggy day. I just replaced the compressor, accumulator, and orifice tube. The AC blows nice cold air again and cost to fix was less than $200.