Eaton M62 Supercharger! Info/help

[BJPbrandon2448]

My apologies guys, here is the link to the Photobucket video! I just got done firing up the car again so far I have no codes other than a coolant low light... This is after resetting the battery and all, but clearly it won't stay idling... I'm not sure how to correct it! If I had a vacuum leak would it throw a code?

http://s1203.photobucket.com/user/BJ...b4f7a.mp4.html

[AleroB888]

Can you watch the bypass lever to see if it moves when he starts the engine? you should be able to look down in between the battery and the SC vacuum hoses....

[BJPbrandon2448]

Originally Posted by AleroB888

Can you watch the bypass lever to see if it moves when he starts the engine? you should be able to look down in between the battery and the SC vacuum hoses....

I will check it out tomorrow, this damn thing is LOUD LMAO. I love it all ready, and its not even running right! I know when I removed the battery to give it a look today I could move the lever around with my finger, How exactly is it supposed to function? Should the lever be moving when I give it throttle?

[AleroB888]

Originally Posted by BJPbrandon2448

I will check it out tomorrow, this damn thing is LOUD LMAO. I love it all ready, and its not even running right! I know when I removed the battery to give it a look today I could move the lever around with my finger, How exactly is it supposed to function? Should the lever be moving when I give it throttle?

As soon as the engine starts, you should see the lever move as it opens the butterfly valve. You can't see the valve itself, that's internal to the SC. But the small crank lever and it's linkage connection, you can see move.

And you did plug the back port on the upper intake manifold, where the power steering hose was, right? sorry, had to ask

[BJPbrandon2448]

Originally Posted by AleroB888

As soon as the engine starts, you should see the lever move as it opens the butterfly valve. You can't see the valve itself, that's internal to the SC. But the small crank lever and it's linkage connection, you can see move.

And you did plug the back port on the upper intake manifold, where the power steering hose was, right? sorry, had to ask

Yes Greg, I plugged that up where the brake booster was attached to the manifold, now just gotta figure out this actuator tomorrow... I don't see what could be wrong with it?

[AleroB888]

Originally Posted by BJPbrandon2448

Yes Greg, I plugged that up where the brake booster was attached to the manifold, now just gotta figure out this actuator tomorrow... I don't see what could be wrong with it?

Are there any openings in between the MAF sensor and throttle body, like a PCV port, that need to be plugged?

[BJPbrandon2448]

Originally Posted by AleroB888

Are there any openings in between the MAF sensor and throttle body, like a PCV port, that need to be plugged?

Nah, Iv'e plugged all of that stuff, and have all the sensors plugged in... Like I said I'm 100% sure I have everything connected and routed to where it needs to be, I'm getting ready to go out and take a look at the fuel actuator and see what I have going on down there! Someone mentioned to me yesterday about getting around the motor with a cigar? They told me the smoke can help pick up vacuum leaks?

[3800L67GAM]

Originally Posted by BJPbrandon2448

Nah, Iv'e plugged all of that stuff, and have all the sensors plugged in... Like I said I'm 100% sure I have everything connected and routed to where it needs to be, I'm getting ready to go out and take a look at the fuel actuator and see what I have going on down there! Someone mentioned to me yesterday about getting around the motor with a cigar? They told me the smoke can help pick up vacuum leaks?

Here ya go

[BJPbrandon2448]

Well I don't smoke and don't plan on it just to find a vacuum leak! LMAO. Looks like I will have to find a smoker or another method! This guy seems a little off his rocker!

[BJPbrandon2448]

According to my air/fuel gauge the car is running extremely rich, almost off the charts rich! Not sure if that means a whole lot, but I'm just reading what it shows me!

[3800L67GAM]

Originally Posted by BJPbrandon2448

Well I don't smoke and don't plan on it just to find a vacuum leak! LMAO. Looks like I will have to find a smoker or another method! This guy seems a little off his rocker!

Lol you don't have to be a smoker!!!

[Danspeed1]

Originally Posted by 3800L67GAM

Here ya go

That is completely ridiculous....


It actually sounds like in video (for the 2 seconds the car was running) you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Rather than looking for something you can't see and will rarely find with your hands, try using your ears. Vacuum leaks make a very distinct, acute, hissing/whistling sound. Try running the car and listening for the sound of rushing air. I know you are probably thinking all the noise is being made by the blower, but they are actually pretty quiet when assembled correctly (at least my 112 is).

Also, did you increase your injector size or make any other modifications you may not be telling us? Any additional variables are going to make the car run like crap or not at all.

Next I would do some diagnostic work here to give us of more of an insight on whats going on. What's your fuel pressure? How do the plugs look (are they wet?).

And most importantly, without a tune, there is no point in doing any of the above. Your forcing more air, and probably less fuel into the engine (lean misfire), injectors are trying to compensate but are out of limits. You really can't fix this thing correctly until you have the correct "base" tune. When I did my car recently before I started it i had a base tune from another car programmed in.

But like I said in my first few lines, if I had to take a wild guess as to what problems will arise after the tune, my guess would be you still have a vacuum leak.

DG

[BJPbrandon2448]

Originally Posted by Danspeed1

That is completely ridiculous....


It actually sounds like in video (for the 2 seconds the car was running) you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Rather than looking for something you can't see and will rarely find with your hands, try using your ears. Vacuum leaks make a very distinct, acute, hissing/whistling sound. Try running the car and listening for the sound of rushing air. I know you are probably thinking all the noise is being made by the blower, but they are actually pretty quiet when assembled correctly (at least my 112 is).

Also, did you increase your injector size or make any other modifications you may not be telling us? Any additional variables are going to make the car run like crap or not at all.

Next I would do some diagnostic work here to give us of more of an insight on whats going on. What's your fuel pressure? How do the plugs look (are they wet?).

And most importantly, without a tune, there is no point in doing any of the above. Your forcing more air, and probably less fuel into the engine (lean misfire), injectors are trying to compensate but are out of limits. You really can't fix this thing correctly until you have the correct "base" tune. When I did my car recently before I started it i had a base tune from another car programmed in.

But like I said in my first few lines, if I had to take a wild guess as to what problems will arise after the tune, my guess would be you still have a vacuum leak.

DG

I will check for a vacuum leak later because of right now its football time!!! I haven't touched the fuel system in the car, its all stock... The funny thing is the car is not throwing any codes, the only thing it is saying is low coolant which is obvious! If you guys were me where do you go from here?

[Nick-G]

Originally Posted by Danspeed1

That is completely ridiculous....


It actually sounds like in video (for the 2 seconds the car was running) you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Rather than looking for something you can't see and will rarely find with your hands, try using your ears. Vacuum leaks make a very distinct, acute, hissing/whistling sound. Try running the car and listening for the sound of rushing air. I know you are probably thinking all the noise is being made by the blower, but they are actually pretty quiet when assembled correctly (at least my 112 is).

Also, did you increase your injector size or make any other modifications you may not be telling us? Any additional variables are going to make the car run like crap or not at all.

Next I would do some diagnostic work here to give us of more of an insight on whats going on. What's your fuel pressure? How do the plugs look (are they wet?).

And most importantly, without a tune, there is no point in doing any of the above. Your forcing more air, and probably less fuel into the engine (lean misfire), injectors are trying to compensate but are out of limits. You really can't fix this thing correctly until you have the correct "base" tune. When I did my car recently before I started it i had a base tune from another car programmed in.

But like I said in my first few lines, if I had to take a wild guess as to what problems will arise after the tune, my guess would be you still have a vacuum leak.

DG

On these kits a tune wouldn't cause it to not run. When I had one of these kits I installed it without a tune and ran it that way for a little while and the car idled and ran just like stock.

Something else is definitely wrong here. You keep mentioning a strong fuel smell. I would put a fuel pressure gauge on it and see what it reads. Is it possible the fuel pressure regulator got damaged?

[O1GAGT]

Check the fuel pressure and if you have roughly 55PSI, then I would start looking into spark. Did you happen to remove your plug wires or any connectors that plug into the coil pack?

[BJPbrandon2448]

How would I go about checking for fuel pressure? The adapter is on the left side of the top rail correct?

[BJPbrandon2448]

I found the tap in for the fuel gauge, I'm gonna go buy one her in a second! May be a stupid question but the car has to be running to check that correct? I cannot find any vacuum leaks to save my life, I don't here anything... all of the hose running is correct according to the wiring diagram, everything is clamped! The only time I removed the spark plug wires was the 3 around the oil check, and I'm 100% sure they are in the right place I marked them. I don't know about the internals to the fuel regulator, the original owner sent me his along with the capsule that sits on top... I installed the whole assemble. Wish I had someone in the area with some knowledge to lend a hand in person, its gotta be something simple.

[O1GAGT]

1. Hook the fuel pressure gauge to the schrader valve on the rail.
2. Key on and let the fuel pump prime, it should read 55PSI
3. Crank the car and have someone watch the gauge, it should stay steady and not fluxuate.
4. Report back with your findings.

I think it would also help if you can get some clear pics of how you ran your vac lines and of the wiring harness. Take several pics at different angles and someone might be able to pinpoint it if it is something simple.

[AaronGTR]

Originally Posted by O1GAGT

1. Hook the fuel pressure gauge to the schrader valve on the rail.
2. Key on and let the fuel pump prime, it should read 55PSI
3. Crank the car and have someone watch the gauge, it should stay steady and not fluxuate.
4. Report back with your findings.

I think it would also help if you can get some clear pics of how you ran your vac lines and of the wiring harness. Take several pics at different angles and someone might be able to pinpoint it if it is something simple.

It should only read 55psi at wot or if he has the vacuum hose off the regulator. With car running at idle it should read 48psi.

[BJPbrandon2448]

Originally Posted by AaronGTR

It should only read 55psi at wot or if he has the vacuum hose off the regulator. With car running at idle it should read 48psi.

Where do you think I should go from here Aaron? I'm going to attempt to check the fuel pressure today when I get of work... However I can't keep the car ideling because it won't stay running unless I keep pumping the throttle! Youcome lend me a hand bud I will pay! Lol