Deinstall the supercharger...

[PhantomLover007]

About ready to deinstall the S/C. I want to get the thing rebuilt.

As for the issue(s) I'm having I may have found them.

The bypass seems to have been moved. Right now, the linkage itself is pressing against the coolant hose running near it and the bypass body is pressed against the cowling on the fan.



Against the hose..



The bypass housing..



The cut area of the cowling is where the bypass was sitting before IIRC..

[AleroB888]

Well that's weird, but the position looks correct on the SC.....I'll put a pic up here as soon as possible.....

[TDavis]

Sell me it, I'll give you $1000

[AleroB888]

I had to notch out the battery tray in this one....



copper tubing for the bypass hose, heater hose is wrapped, it contacted the bottom of SC....every install is a little different.

[PhantomLover007]

Thanks Greg. I have to see if there is a bypass hose running to there..

Ugh...

Pics are helping alot

[BJPbrandon2448]

These pics are helping me a ton as well, Matt I think we may be able to help each other a ton!!! We basically have the same issues going on and I just bought an Eaton and am having a difficult time getting it to function right!!! Thanks Greg for your help, I really do appreciate it Iv'e just been getting agitated over it! Could you do me a favor bud and take as many pics as possible of your bypass system??? I could really use them to help determine the factory position mine is the same as yours its slammed against that coolant hose and I'm worried that its not having enough strength to move the throttle linkage because of that hose? I even took an inch off of it just like the manual says...

[PhantomLover007]

Yea. The manual isn't the best..

[BJPbrandon2448]

Originally Posted by PhantomLover007

Yea. The manual isn't the best..

Agreed.

[AleroB888]

Originally Posted by PhantomLover007

Thanks Greg. I have to see if there is a bypass hose running to there..

Ugh...

Pics are helping alot

On your setup in the pic it looks like the wrong piece of the fan mount was notched out. The bypass canister looks to be in the right place. I think you will have to take the SC off, get in there and snip some, file some, etc. You could cut another 3/8 to 1/2 inch off the heater hose...however when I did, I had to go back and retighten the hose once or twice, iirc.

There is supposed to be a small brass flow restrictor where the bypass hose connects. That gets lost easily. Instead I use the small diameter copper tube as a restrictor. What that allows is the butterfly valve to open and close gradually as it goes in and out of boost.

[PhantomLover007]

Yeah. I'll work on that then Greg. Thanks again man.

I found out also that one of the clamps securing the small hose connecting the inlet on the engine to the outlet on the S/C was not tight.. Ugh.

I go a regular serpentine belt to start the deinstall. Thank God for the auto craft shops on base.

[AaronGTR]

Originally Posted by AleroB888

On your setup in the pic it looks like the wrong piece of the fan mount was notched out. The bypass canister looks to be in the right place. I think you will have to take the SC off, get in there and snip some, file some, etc. You could cut another 3/8 to 1/2 inch off the heater hose...however when I did, I had to go back and retighten the hose once or twice, iirc.

There is supposed to be a small brass flow restrictor where the bypass hose connects. That gets lost easily. Instead I use the small diameter copper tube as a restrictor. What that allows is the butterfly valve to open and close gradually as it goes in and out of boost.

Not sure if they all have that brass fitting. I don't recall ever seeing one on mine, and I've been the only owner of this kit. It may depend on what gen blower you have or what bypass actuator it came with.

But yeah, it looks at the correct angle on his. Just looks like the wrong part of the fan shroud is trimmed. On mine, I only had to trim a little section of one fin on the fan shroud. My actuator never touched the battery tray or the radiator hose. That's really strange for any of them to touch the hose, because mine is at least 1/2" away. But that could definitely cause problems with the operation if the hose is preventing the actuator arm from moving freely.

Originally Posted by PhantomLover007

Yeah. I'll work on that then Greg. Thanks again man.

I found out also that one of the clamps securing the small hose connecting the inlet on the engine to the outlet on the S/C was not tight.. Ugh.

I go a regular serpentine belt to start the deinstall. Thank God for the auto craft shops on base.

If they didn't have the clamp tight on that connection you could have been leaking boost. Just based on the video though, the noise it was making and how the engine was reacting, I don't think that was the only problem.

[PhantomLover007]

Originally Posted by AaronGTR

If they didn't have the clamp tight on that connection you could have been leaking boost. Just based on the video though, the noise it was making and how the engine was reacting, I don't think that was the only problem.

Yeah. So far I've had two hoses that weren't secured. The one running from the AIT to the rear valve cover was seperated too..

Piss poor for a shop that works on muscle cars and race cars.

I just need a house w/ a garage and a lift so I can do my own work...

[BJPbrandon2448]

I think my bypass is doing the same, when I removed the battery it's basically smashed against the hose as well, I can move it with my hand but it's very stiff! I'm just gonna have to man up and remove the bitch!

[PhantomLover007]

Ok. I reinstalled the SC, shortened the coolant hose, and trimmed the fan shroud to clear the bypass.

Now. There is a port on the underside of the inlet for the SC that is blocked off w/ a piece of metal, 2 bolts and orange rtv. It just doesn't look right.

[TDavis]

So is the S/C thats for the GA actually supposed to be this difficult to install or are there little gremlins messing sht up?

[BJPbrandon2448]

Originally Posted by PhantomLover007

Ok. I reinstalled the SC, shortened the coolant hose, and trimmed the fan shroud to clear the bypass.

Now. There is a port on the underside of the inlet for the SC that is blocked off w/ a piece of metal, 2 bolts and orange rtv. It just doesn't look right.

That would be a block off port for the EGR... Its where you are supposed re-route the flexible metal hose too. If I were you I would probably leave it just the way you have it now... Your car will throw a code, unless you get it scanned.

[BJPbrandon2448]

Originally Posted by TDavis

So is the S/C thats for the GA actually supposed to be this difficult to install or are there little gremlins messing sht up?

There are a lot of little gremlins messing **** up!!! I haven't even got around to pulling mine out of the car yet, I may do it this afternoon.

[geldartb]

Originally Posted by PhantomLover007

I just need a house w/ a garage and a lift so I can do my own work...

i've done pretty good so far with a jack and a bunch of jack stands. a lift would make things a billion times easier but for now what i got works.

when ever i do get a house a decent size garage is on the short list or at least room to build one.

Originally Posted by TDavis

or are there little gremlins messing sht up?

my vote is for gremlins.. they sneek in and mess my shit up and move my stuff around so i can't find it the next time..

[AleroB888]

Originally Posted by PhantomLover007

Ok. I reinstalled the SC, shortened the coolant hose, and trimmed the fan shroud to clear the bypass.

Now. There is a port on the underside of the inlet for the SC that is blocked off w/ a piece of metal, 2 bolts and orange rtv. It just doesn't look right.

That's correctly installed.

and btw, that spot can also make use of a 1/2 inch NPT threaded flange bung as an extra port for vacuum, such as the power brake hose.

If the heater hose still touches the SC, wrap it with header wrap or silicone tape...

[PhantomLover007]

I never did an EGR delete