Eaton M62 Supercharger! Info/help

[O1GAGT]

Originally Posted by AaronGTR

It should only read 55psi at wot or if he has the vacuum hose off the regulator. With car running at idle it should read 48psi.

Yes, when the car is running at idle.... But we aren't at that point yet
Key on and primed and when cranking should be around 55 psi

[AaronGTR]

Originally Posted by O1GAGT

Yes, when the car is running at idle.... But we aren't at that point yet
Key on and primed and when cranking should be around 55 psi

Mine usually isn't that high. Key on and primed I only see about 50psi.

[AaronGTR]

Originally Posted by BJPbrandon2448

Where do you think I should go from here Aaron? I'm going to attempt to check the fuel pressure today when I get of work... However I can't keep the car ideling because it won't stay running unless I keep pumping the throttle! Youcome lend me a hand bud I will pay! Lol

I really don't know... without seeing it in person. I know you said everything was hooked up right, but only thing I can think of is there is something you are missing... something that is leaking or isn't plugged, or not hooked up properly. Or else something wrong with the bypass valve.

Another possibility is the FPR, since you had to take it off and replace it, and the one you put on (or the compound regulator on top) is used and may not be good. Pressure could be too high or too low. Only way to tell is put a pressure gauge on the rail. Also if you have a scanner you can look at the O2 readings and fuel trims and that would give you an idea.

[BJPbrandon2448]

Thanks Aaron I really think the problem lies with the bypass valve and I would hate to have to pull the damn thing after coming this far!

[sleepyalero]

Hope you get it running.

[BJPbrandon2448]

Originally Posted by sleepyalero

Hope you get it running.

Yeah, me too bud... me too! I have a question regarding the EGR. I didn't touch the stock set-up... I left the EGR. the exact way it was before I started tampering with the supercharger... The only thing I did was make a block off plate for the one on the supercharger? That is the exact way your supposed to deal with that part right?

[AaronGTR]

Yeah, that should be fine. Assuming it was working correctly before the S/C install... and you would have had an SES light if it wasn't.

[BJPbrandon2448]

Spent $50.00 on a fuel pressure testing system, god damn Advance Auto is a rip-off! Inflated prices on low quality parts what a joke!!! Anyways as long as this cheapo is reading right I have 44 psi with the key in on position, I haven't gotten the chance to get a reading while I started! I ended up finding a hose with a crack in it tonight after I just re-filled the coolant system!!! Thanks Advance Auto for selling me a hose with a crack in it! Anyways I'm becoming beyond frustrated with this car... I just don't understand why things can't work out for me every once and a while, as of right now I just need to walk away from the car for a couple of days.

[TDavis]

This may be taking a little bit longer then hoped but once its all corrected it'll be worth the trouble.

[O1GAGT]

If your using the fuel pressure regulator that came with the kit, it is from a 1999 which is a lower pressure than the 2000+ fuel pressure regulators.

My advice would be to replace the fuel pressure regulator with a new stock 00+ regulator. Leave the rising rate cap off and just take it easy once it is running. Ideally you will upgrade the injectors to 28lb trail blazer injectors before too long.

[BJPbrandon2448]

So you guys say to buy a new regulator then? I'm going to assume the this regulator was off an early model grand am being that the manifold the previous owner sent me has the older style EGR... This is ridiculous for me it just seems like everything that could go wrong is going wrong! So do you guys recommend me to drill it out like the manual says or what? I got a price on one that advance auto has in stock today and it was $55 I couldn't believe it!!!

[PhantomLover007]

I'm still using the OEM one on my GA Brandon...

[BJPbrandon2448]

Me to Matt, I feel stupid now that I just learned that the 99's have a different output than the 02's on up!!! But on the other hand I'm pretty excited knowing that this may provide a a solution to my problem! On the other hand if I'm giving the car a little bit of gas upon starting it, wouldn't that be giving it the extra pressure it needed to provide a start up? And then once I let it attempt to idle down it dies on me because the pressure then drops below of where it needs to be? Could someone do me a favor and help me hunt the correct regulator down on Ebay or something? I could really use some help buying the correct year regulator, all parts were manufactured by Delphi correct? I really hope this is the answer, makes sense since its the only thing I changed on the car... and after all its not throwing any codes.

[AleroB888]

heh, It's not running long enough to throw any more codes yet.

Some of the aftermarket FP regulators (Autozone, etc.) won't allow the kit compound regulator to fit over them. That's not an issue right now though. Hell, were not even sure if your kit compound regulator is working.

Really, the fastest way to troubleshoot this is to take off the SC, put the stock belt on, install the throttle body and MAF sensor, and attempt to start it....

That would tell you if the FPR is a problem or not...

Then you could also test the bypass valve operation while it is off the car...which is not that hard to do.

[BJPbrandon2448]

Originally Posted by AleroB888

heh, It's not running long enough to throw any more codes yet.

Some of the aftermarket FP regulators (Autozone, etc.) won't allow the kit compound regulator to fit over them. That's not an issue right now though. Hell, were not even sure if your kit compound regulator is working.

Really, the fastest way to troubleshoot this is to take off the SC, put the stock belt on, install the throttle body and MAF sensor, and attempt to start it....

That would tell you if the FPR is a problem or not...

Then you could also test the bypass valve operation while it is off the car...which is not that hard to do.

F that if a new regulator does not do the trick I'm trailing the car down to Dayton and letting Milzy go to work... At this rate the money I'm throwing away on all of these stupid little things would have covered the install fees!

Could someone lend me a hand finding the correct regulator on eBay or something, they have OEM ones on there thanks!

[AaronGTR]

Originally Posted by BJPbrandon2448

F that if a new regulator does not do the trick I'm trailing the car down to Dayton and letting Milzy go to work... At this rate the money I'm throwing away on all of these stupid little things would have covered the install fees!

Could someone lend me a hand finding the correct regulator on eBay or something, they have OEM ones on there thanks!

I do believe no one on here ever said putting boost on a grand am was cheap or easy. Quite the opposite in fact. But anyway...


Yeah, I didn't even think about that. If the egr adapter that came with it was for a '99, there's a good chance the FPR was a '99 also. They change the UIM and EGR from '99 to '00 (not '02+), and also changed the injectors, FPR, and base fuel pressure.

Advance auto is about the same price as other places, but yeah they are expensive on some others. I'll go to a local parts store if I need some "right now" but otherwise I order from rock auto. They have a pretty wide selection and the best prices on everything. They've got a Delphi FPR for $38.79 http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...924&cc=1359312.


Here is a pic of the bypass actuator on the S/C. That is the angle it should be at.


This is a pic of mine. You should only have to trim one fin on the shroud to get it to fit. I never had to do anything with the battery tray to make it fit, and mine never touched the radiator hose either. If it does, that's a problem. You don't want it touching anything that might stop the actuator arm from moving freely. Mine has about 1/2" clearance all around. If yours touches, you might have to trim the rad hose more. Take it off the end on the engine side, not the rad side. That will pull it towards the engine.

[AaronGTR]

Couple more pics, just so you have the bypass workings down pat. It will help with troubleshooting.


It's basically just like a throttle body. There is a port with a little plate held to a shaft with a couple screws. There is an edge on the other side that stops the plate in the closed position, and the port goes through to the outlet side of the S/C... therefore "bypassing" the rotors. Some air still goes through the rotors, but the port opening up allows air to pass through more easily and not bog the engine down when the rotors aren't turning fast. When there is vacuum behind the TB, the diaphragm in the actuator pulls in, pulling a lever crank which rotates the shaft the plate is on and opening the port. When the TB opens and vacuum goes down, the diaphragm goes back out and the port closes to keep air from coming back through it and allowing boost to build in the intake.

[PhantomLover007]

Cool. Thanks for the pics Aaron. Between you and Greg, you guys have been a big help.

[BJPbrandon2448]

Thanks Aaron this should all work out great now, Iv'e begun un-installing the supercharger which sucks but I realize its what I have to do... I also ordered that fuel regulator from RockAuto that you found for me, that's a really great price compared to the $60 at advance auto tards!!! I just need to keep my patience and this thing will eventually get done. I'm gonna take a bunch of pictures of my bypass valve before I re-install the supercharger just to make sure it looks good to you guys! I need to trim more off of that radiator hose anyways because its still smashed against the charger! Thanks guys.

[PhantomLover007]

Funny that we both have to do this and I've had mine on since late 2010... .