tuning problem.

[sleepyalero]

Ive read a little about KR. Still processing that. i dont know why it went to 11* ill see what happens again here soon because ill be doing another scan.

Ive read that bad gas can cause kr and other things as well.

[HOYS]

An interesting thing to do would be to splice your coolant temp sensor into your transmission connector for the transmission oil temp. This is just brain storming but I'd make the car think that it has an auto still might go a long way and might get rid of some issues.

[sleepyalero]

well all tables are 0'd out for the auto trans. i wouldnt even know where to splice in at for trans temp. plus the F40 has like 1 or 2 plugs only for the transmission compared to the stock trans which i think has more.

i tried accelerating again only got to 78% wot before it said i was at 0%... hmmmm then my laptop died. sadly it doesnt hold a charge.

[AaronGTR]

Eh, since you don't have the auto trans anymore, you don't really need the factory pcm either. Just ditch the whole thing and go stand alone ecm. That's what I would do! (j/k)

[Starglow]

Originally Posted by sleepyalero

i tried accelerating again only got to 78% wot before it said i was at 0%... hmmmm then my laptop died. sadly it doesnt hold a charge.

This is why I pay people to do this stuff....then it's their problem. :

[HOYS]

Originally Posted by sleepyalero

well all tables are 0'd out for the auto trans. i wouldnt even know where to splice in at for trans temp. plus the F40 has like 1 or 2 plugs only for the transmission compared to the stock trans which i think has more.

i tried accelerating again only got to 78% wot before it said i was at 0%... hmmmm then my laptop died. sadly it doesnt hold a charge.

Who cares if all of the tables are zero'd. There might still be logic in the PCM that is making it do wonky things.

I'm saying, you still have the big 20 or so pin connector that goes on the front of the 4t45. From that connector wire the trans temp and pressure sensor somehow (i'd have to do a lot of research to help on this) to make it think like the car has an automatic transmission that is healthy, not over heating, and operating at decent pressures. I don't really agree with the method Milzy uses for this but I might be 100% wrong. It really isn't documented what happens when you disable a CEL and tell it not to report. Stuff might be going on that you don't know about.

Originally Posted by AaronGTR

Eh, since you don't have the auto trans anymore, you don't really need the factory pcm either. Just ditch the whole thing and go stand alone ecm. That's what I would do! (j/k)

Hell it sounds like a good idea to me past not having a working cluster, abs, or body functions. Time for RACECAR MODE!

[rjs_boy]

If it were me...I would be reaching out to Milzy at this point. Surely he has done a few manual swaps and encountered some kinks like this. He might have some pointers for you.

[sleepyalero]

He did the swap you would think he knocked em all out

[sleepyalero]

Originally Posted by HOYS

Who cares if all of the tables are zero'd. There might still be logic in the PCM that is making it do wonky things.

I'm saying, you still have the big 20 or so pin connector that goes on the front of the 4t45. From that connector wire the trans temp and pressure sensor somehow (i'd have to do a lot of research to help on this) to make it think like the car has an automatic transmission that is healthy, not over heating, and operating at decent pressures. I don't really agree with the method Milzy uses for this but I might be 100% wrong. It really isn't documented what happens when you disable a CEL and tell it not to report. Stuff might be going on that you don't know about.

It could possibly be true on that.

What method are you referring to? 0'img out all auto tables? Ill have to get under the car and see what plugs are left for the stock transmission that have been unplugged. Do you know how many plugs go into the 4t45 trans?

I believe in the swap no harnesses were added in for the F40, i blieve you can use a stock plug or two and it just plugs right into the stock harness. Ill have to double check on that soon, but im pretty sure thats how it goes.


If i were to splice wires into a certain harness, how exactly would that work? If im using the stock trans harness, how would i splice a stock plug that has been left unplugged from the auto trans (i know this might get confusing) into another stock plug being used for the F40 to make the trans somewhat right and make it read trans temp/pressure and all that.. Does that make sense? Of course i know what im trying to say its a matter of if you know what im trying to say

The car runs strong and flawless 90-95% of the time, that other small percent is when i get high idle every once in awhile. (possible limp mode as you said) but at WOT the car feels strong, im not sure why the TPS 0's out at WOT, i remember back when i borrowed HPT from a friend, (i had auto trans at the time) the TPS % always ran 100% at WOT, just not understanding why its not now. Im wondering if this whole high idle issue, and possible "limp mode" is an issue with the TPS reading on the tuner. But like i said, before i even got this tuner i have now, i would have never seen that code for the TPS, it doesnt pop a light on the dash when it reads a DTC, i only know it if i have the tuner hooked up, but it doesnt seem to phase the car at all even though some how its getting a low voltage signal accoring to HPT.


Ill have to see how many connections are un done for the auto trans soon. Just gotta find where they are hiding, i know where one connection for the F40 is , ill get some pics as well of what plug(s) are being used for the F40, and whats not being used.



I appreciate your help HOYS in all of this, along with everyone elses insight!




It would be nice if i could get a hold of tim (i think his name was, who did the first f40 swap in the GA) and see if he still has the tune for his, what problems he had, and if his swap performed any better then mine, i remember i PM'd him a long time ago, and didnt get a repsonse for a few months. I know he parted out the car and everything, i think because of certain issues and he couldnt get it right? I dont remember.....

Sweet i still had his previous PM. But havent talked to him since .

ME:

Hey Tim, my name is nathan. im currently in the process of a 6 speed install my self by MMS.... i know its been since 2009, dont know if you even get on here anymore. but just curious to see what happened with your 6 speed swap GA or if its still running or its gone or what? just looking for some info really.

TIMKA86:


well i haven't visited this site in forever, but when i do i seem to have PM's about the 6 speed. I parted the car out a year after the build. MMS bought all my 6 speed swap stuff. I'm into the Nissan/Infiniti modding world now. RWD ftw.

I'm guessing your 6 speed is up and running? Rattle much?


/end of his reply.



It sucks seeing people put all that work and effort in a car, then just parting it out and letting it go without any care anymore. Just stinks to see projects go to waste, even after they do finish them and get running.

[AaronGTR]

Originally Posted by HOYS

Hell it sounds like a good idea to me past not having a working cluster, abs, or body functions. Time for RACECAR MODE!

ABS and body functions don't work through the PCM. They are in the BCM, so no reason why they shouldn't work. Might have to use a tech2 or some other electronic trickery to disable the security feature, but that's do-able. Or just bypass the BCM and hardwire the fuel pump circuit to a switch. Cluster... you could do all gauges or replace it with a digital display from one of a half dozen companies that would work with a stand alone ECM.

Best thing about a stand alone is it would have many more open functions and easier to dial in and know exactly what is going on. Fuel and ignition map displays. Running completely off a wideband O2 with easy tune for target afr's wherever you set. Ability to run multi-stage injectors and different fuel mapping at flick of a switch, and so on and so on. Yeah it would be a lot of work, but if I was bothering to spend the time and money for a custom turbo setup and manual trans swap, I'd go all the way and get everything I needed to make it run the best. Why do it half ass?

[AleroB888]

Originally Posted by sleepyalero

......The car runs strong and flawless 90-95% of the time, that other small percent is when i get high idle every once in awhile. (possible limp mode as you said) but at WOT the car feels strong, im not sure why the TPS 0's out at WOT, i remember back when i borrowed HPT from a friend, (i had auto trans at the time) the TPS % always ran 100% at WOT, just not understanding why its not now. Im wondering if this whole high idle issue, and possible "limp mode" is an issue with the TPS reading on the tuner. ....
Ill have to see how many connections are un done for the auto trans soon. .....


It sucks seeing people put all that work and effort in a car, then just parting it out and letting it go without any care anymore. Just stinks to see projects go to waste, even after they do finish them and get running.

With the high KR, you're still losing 2-4 % of the top end power. IF that is false knock triggered by excess noise, easiest thing to try is packing the knock sensor with Permagum cords. Then the trans temp sensor can be simulated with either an IAT or ECT sensor. You might try placing one on the back of the UIM, for example.

That might tell you if : (KR) + (Trans Temp Sensor fail) = limp mode. If it just helps the KR , that's still a little more power for you.

It seems Tim's project did not go entirely to waste, it may have set the stage for your project.

If you want, you can send your .hpt file, it would save a lot of questions about the scans. I wouldn't reveal anything therein without Mike's permission. (If you go to the HP Tuners' forum and post a question, the first thing they tell you is to post your tune.)

edit: also try scanning for "Delivered Trans Torque" and "AFR Commanded" with the HPT

[rjs_boy]

Originally Posted by sleepyalero

He did the swap you would think he knocked em all out

Even more reason to reach out to him. Not saying he did something wrong, more that he probably knows just as much about how to fix that KR and TPS reading in combination with all the other work you've had done to your car.

[sleepyalero]

Originally Posted by AleroB888

With the high KR, you're still losing 2-4 % of the top end power. IF that is false knock triggered by excess noise, easiest thing to try is packing the knock sensor with Permagum cords. Then the trans temp sensor can be simulated with either an IAT or ECT sensor. You might try placing one on the back of the UIM, for example.

That might tell you if : (KR) + (Trans Temp Sensor fail) = limp mode. If it just helps the KR , that's still a little more power for you.

It seems Tim's project did not go entirely to waste, it may have set the stage for your project.

If you want, you can send your .hpt file, it would save a lot of questions about the scans. I wouldn't reveal anything therein without Mike's permission. (If you go to the HP Tuners' forum and post a question, the first thing they tell you is to post your tune.)

edit: also try scanning for "Delivered Trans Torque" and "AFR Commanded" with the HPT

Okay ill test a few things are you wanting a copy of my tune or no?

I know im losing power with the high kr. What SHOULD kr be at? I didnr see it go to 11 last night.

Originally Posted by rjs_boy

Even more reason to reach out to him. Not saying he did something wrong, more that he probably knows just as much about how to fix that KR and TPS reading in combination with all the other work you've had done to your car.

Yeah soon enough.

[sleepyalero]

Okay i have some pics for you guys on what plugs are being used for the F40 and what plugs are not being used.

Dont mind the wires showing, i pulled off the electrical tape that was covering everything, and the green wire you will see is to my Oil pressure gauge. That will also be cleaned up when i upgrade to AEM oil and volt gauges.



Here are the plugs i have found so far not being used. First pic is on back of trans, second is on top near shift linkage.




And it looks like a red and black wire was added into the harness, goes into the fire wall, not 100% sure what its for yet.






And heres the plugs being used.







pics seem to be huge, but you can see all connectors very well!

[AaronGTR]

Originally Posted by sleepyalero

Okay ill test a few things are you wanting a copy of my tune or no?

I know im losing power with the high kr. What SHOULD kr be at? I didnr see it go to 11 last night.



Yeah soon enough.

Ideally, it should be zero. You don't want kr of any kind. You lose power and it's hard on your engine.

[sleepyalero]

And how do you exactly eliminate KR

[AleroB888]

here's a 2000 diagram, not sure if it's the same for '01, though
(courtesy of OnefastV6)

[mfuller]

Originally Posted by sleepyalero

And how do you exactly eliminate KR

Eliminatuion of knock retard usually entails several things.
Most commonly, adjustments to fueling and ignition timing, but KR can also be triggered by various mechanical issues.

[PhantomLover007]

I had a lot of KR when Aaron scanned mine before he moved to lower Canada..

[O1GAGT]

I would be interested in seeing a copy of the .hpt file as I have both DHP and HPT programs. I am curious to see what happens if we were to change the transmission type to manual via tiny tuner. http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showth...-type-variable




If you want to give it a try, I can change it and send you back the file.