Eaton M62 Supercharger! Info/help

[BJPbrandon2448]

I know right? It sucks that I have to do this... I had all of the wiring tucked really nice everything was looking amazing, but no realized the stupid radiator hose was still to long! Damn. Hopefully my new regulator get here by the weekend so I can try to finish her up.

[3800L67GAM]

Got it running yet??��

[BJPbrandon2448]

Nope... I haven't even got the chance to rip the charger back out yet, Iv'e got everything I need to go over again, Iv'e got my new regulator although I'm hoping its the right one, the spout on top is a tad bit longer than stock, and its not going to need drilled because its already 1/8 inch opening? I plan to get a start on the weekend since I will be off, put in 61 hours last week.

[3800L67GAM]

Originally Posted by BJPbrandon2448

Nope... I haven't even got the chance to rip the charger back out yet, Iv'e got everything I need to go over again, Iv'e got my new regulator although I'm hoping its the right one, the spout on top is a tad bit longer than stock, and its not going to need drilled because its already 1/8 inch opening? I plan to get a start on the weekend since I will be off, put in 61 hours last week.

Nice 61 hours I got 99.25 hours the last two weeks. I hopes you get it running.

[BJPbrandon2448]

UPDATE : Okay guys I am officially back on 40 hours at work so this afternoon I actually had a little bit of time to shake off my frustrations and go to work on the car! Beginning today I first decided to go to work on the regulator, as many of you guys may have read I recently purchased a new regulator from rockauto.com, however I was having slightly concerning issues regarding my new regulator, I think it may be a regulator for the 99 keep in mind that my car is an 02. First of all I had to make a few mods to the regulator to make it fit, I tried to highlight comparisons in the pics! #1 The spout on top of the new regulator was significantly taller than stock so I had to shave that down just to get it to fit properly inside the canister... Issue #2 is in regards of a gold bushing inside the filter screen of the new regulator it looks to me like it could significantly slow the amount of fuel flowing through the screen. I tried fitting my stock regulator in the canister, you know the one my brother crushed, it wouldn't even fit inside the canister. Thoughts?


Next, I tried to take as many pictures as possible of my bypass regulator, to me it seems like everything is correct? For some reason I was un-able to get the 3rd screw to thread into the black plastic capsule, I didn't want to break anything. Do you guys think I will be alright without it? I didn't want to drill inside of it, I marked it for you guys.












I greatly appreciate your guys help, it so great to have someone to turn to in situations like this, I'm not sure how I would ever get this thing working without this site! Thanks.

[AleroB888]

Originally Posted by BJPbrandon2448

.......

Next, I tried to take as many pictures as possible of my bypass regulator, to me it seems like everything is correct? For some reason I was un-able to get the 3rd screw to thread into the black plastic capsule, I didn't want to break anything. Do you guys think I will be alright without it? I didn't want to drill inside of it, I marked it for you guys.

Actually that canister comes riveted to the bracket, looks like they were replaced with the screws at some point....

[AleroB888]

Now, very important: need to take pics of your upper intake manifold inlet flange, and your throttle body from the gasket side.

[BJPbrandon2448]

Originally Posted by AleroB888

Now, very important: need to take pics of your upper intake manifold inlet flange, and your throttle body from the gasket side.

May I ask why? ... I haven't had anything wrong with those things?

[AleroB888]

Originally Posted by BJPbrandon2448

May I ask why? ... I haven't had anything wrong with those things?

Because of how the throttle body mates up to the supercharger inlet flange. Some throttle bodies have a block off that won't allow your IAC to work with the SC.

[BJPbrandon2448]

Here is the best I could do for now, hopefully it helps? I have the T.C.E. throttle body, I know people have used it before on this install... On the other note may have just found something that was majorly holding the car up, upon removing the nipple stem I have hooked on the bypass actuator as pictured I managed to find a bronze rivet completely blocking off the line... WTF. It was never getting any vacuum into the actuator.

[AleroB888]

Originally Posted by BJPbrandon2448

....

OK, your throttle body is good to go, I forgot you had the TCE.

But at first glance it looks like you might have a vacuum leak on the top of the upper intake manifold flange where the recess is...the gasket should cover the whole flange, I believe....

[AleroB888]

Originally Posted by BJPbrandon2448

..... On the other note may have just found something that was majorly holding the car up, upon removing the nipple stem I have hooked on the bypass actuator as pictured I managed to find a bronze rivet completely blocking off the line... WTF. It was never getting any vacuum into the actuator.

Well, is it a brass flow restrictor? You may need that. I'll try to get a pic of what one looks like. But if that was lodged sideways in the tube it could have cut off the vacuum source...

You do need to test the vacuum port and see if the lever moves, then we can look at adjusting it, (if the bypass assembly was off the mount when you got it).

[BJPbrandon2448]

Originally Posted by AleroB888

Well, is it a brass flow restrictor? You may need that. I'll try to get a pic of what one looks like. But if that was lodged sideways in the tube it could have cut off the vacuum source...

You do need to test the vacuum port and see if the lever moves, then we can look at adjusting it, (if the bypass assembly was off the mount when you got it).

Well as far as I know it wasn't completely off of the mount, really the only thing that was tampered with was the 3 screws which you have now told me were rivets they were completely gone which is why I had to add the screws... And where do you see a vacuum leak at? I'm confused?

[AleroB888]

Originally Posted by BJPbrandon2448

Well as far as I know it wasn't completely off of the mount, really the only thing that was tampered with was the 3 screws which you have now told me were rivets they were completely gone which is why I had to add the screws... And where do you see a vacuum leak at? I'm confused?

The "square" area above the TB gasket here, possibly:

[BJPbrandon2448]

Originally Posted by AleroB888

The "square" area above the TB gasket here, possibly:

Wow... Upon looking at that, that really would cause a leak... I feel pretty stupid now, the little things you find while doing this stuff, lesson learned never let your younger brother work on your car! FAIL.

On the other hand I looked at that bronze fitting it has a super small hole about the size of a sewing needle in it!!! I don't even understand how air would flow through that if it is supposed to be in there?

[AleroB888]

Originally Posted by BJPbrandon2448

Wow... Upon looking at that, that really would cause a leak... I feel pretty stupid now, the little things you find while doing this stuff, lesson learned never let your younger brother work on your car! FAIL.

On the other hand I looked at that bronze fitting it has a super small hole about the size of a sewing needle in it!!! I don't even understand how air would flow through that if it is supposed to be in there?

Here's what they look like. iirc, they are optional if you order a new bypass valve. It's easily lost, they come off with the hose too easily. That, and you can see the plastic rivets, that's the most fragile part of the whole setup:

[AaronGTR]

Yeah, it looks like the TB gasket that is on your intake manifold is on upside down, and someone cut the tab off the other side. There should be gasket material going all the way around that square area at top (the original passage for the IAC on the stock TB), which will match up to the elbow that bolts on and routes the air from the SC outlet. That would give you a major vacuum leak the way it is in the picture right now. edit: in fact, looking at that again, it doesn't even look like the correct TB gasket. It should have a notch in the material at the top of the circle that follows the shape of the IAC channel in the UIM. Yours is a complete circle. You are going to need a completely different gasket.


On an off note, your tce TB is a little different than mine. Looks like they changed the design of the outlet of the IAC a little. Mine is higher and completely located in the flat area on the back of the TB. Looks like yours merges part way into the main opening. Probably better for flow that way. You should be fine with that.

[BJPbrandon2448]

Thanks Aaron I'm gonna go and pick up 2 new throttle body gaskets today, it's something I should have done anyways! So what is your guys opinions on the regulator do you think I will be alright there? Also how does the actuator bypass look? Is it installed properly? Should I attempt to get a 3rd screw in there to fully secure it? I also found the brass flow restrictor. It's supposed to be in there then? Doesn't make any sense how air flow gets throuh that tiny hole

[PhantomLover007]

I had to trim the tab of my TB gasket a little on the right of it to fit proplerly around the block on top of the UIM.

[AaronGTR]

You'll probably be fine on the regulator. Honestly, like I said before I don't think you even need the compound regulator. It will run without it, and bigger injectors and tuning are really what's needed for this kit, which make the CFPR unnecessary. An adjustable regulator would really be a better solution anyway.

The bypass actuator looks ok. I can't tell how secure it is of course without physically seeing it in person. If there's a way you can get a third screw in there to make sure it's secure, yeah I'd do it.

As for the restrictor in the air line, it's not like there is a lot of air flow going through there, and it's not moving very fast. It doesn't need a huge hole, it's air. It can get through tiny places, and I think the whole point in have a small hole is to control the speed. That controls how fast the actuator reacts and opens/closes the bypass valve.