Eaton M62 Supercharger! Info/help

[AleroB888]

Originally Posted by BJPbrandon2448

Yeah there has got to be a small leak somewhere ... Question is where? It's so hard to find these damn things! So frustrating! It runs maybe I should just leave it? Let people know what's up? Lol.

No, do not drive it at this point... you have to find the source of that noise first.... You did verify the level of oil in the gearcase, right? Not that low oil would cause all the noise, but better to be safe...

Should be ok to let it warm up and idle, but don't take it to any higher rpm till it's sorted out.

[AaronGTR]

Yeah, I wouldn't drive it or rev it to higher rpm until you find the source of the noise. That's not normal at all. I don't know if having the water pump empty would cause a noise like that... but I'd definitely get the coolant filled up and the system bled properly before doing too much else. You don't want to let it run too long without coolant. The idle speed issue could be just because of the temp. They normally idle at 1k rpm or more when they are cold. It should settle down to 650-700 when the coolant starts warming up.

As for the MAF. I'd leave it where it is but get a better pipe and couplers to connect it to the TB. I don't like putting it too close to the TB because the MAF reading could be affected by movement of the throttle plate changing the air stream.

[BJPbrandon2448]

Originally Posted by AaronGTR

Yeah, I wouldn't drive it or rev it to higher rpm until you find the source of the noise. That's not normal at all. I don't know if having the water pump empty would cause a noise like that... but I'd definitely get the coolant filled up and the system bled properly before doing too much else. You don't want to let it run too long without coolant. The idle speed issue could be just because of the temp. They normally idle at 1k rpm or more when they are cold. It should settle down to 650-700 when the coolant starts warming up.

As for the MAF. I'd leave it where it is but get a better pipe and couplers to connect it to the TB. I don't like putting it too close to the TB because the MAF reading could be affected by movement of the throttle plate changing the air stream.

I didn't know how to check for oil in the gear case so I never did that? I do know that when I had the charger sitting on its side it did bleed some oil out of the supercharger inlet. I really don't know where to go from here, I mean it is a lot closer than where I was at the first time with the install? Aaron is there any way you could find me a link to the right size piping and couplers that I would need to finish the install? I hate having this ugly ass "shop vac" hose in my engine bay! Does it sound like a vacuum leak to you guys??? So your saying refilling the coolant could be a solution? To me it sounds like it is coming from the battery area.

[AaronGTR]

Originally Posted by BJPbrandon2448

I didn't know how to check for oil in the gear case so I never did that? I do know that when I had the charger sitting on its side it did bleed some oil out of the supercharger inlet. I really don't know where to go from here, I mean it is a lot closer than where I was at the first time with the install? Aaron is there any way you could find me a link to the right size piping and couplers that I would need to finish the install? I hate having this ugly ass "shop vac" hose in my engine bay! Does it sound like a vacuum leak to you guys??? So your saying refilling the coolant could be a solution? To me it sounds like it is coming from the battery area.

No, a vacuum leak definitely wouldn't be that loud. It's definitely something mechanical. I can't tell where it's coming from in the video obviously.

What I'm saying is, I don't know if a water pump that is spinning dry (no coolant in it) would make that noise or not, but it's definitely not good for the engine to run it that way, and filling it up will eliminate one possible source of the noise. Fill it up and bleed the system... if the noise is still there, you know that it wasn't from there.

It's possible it could be the water pump or the belt rubbing on something, but I don't think they would make that exact noise. Honestly, it sounds to me like something wrong with the SC. I'll cross my fingers and hope that isn't it. You saying that it was leaking oil out of the inlet doesn't fill me with confidence. It's possible it was just oil residue from the PCV system... I used to get that in through my SC and it would pool in the intake elbow to the UIM.

If it's leaking from the SC drive system though, that would be a REAL problem. There are two shafts from the drive gears that go through the end of the case to drive the rotors, and there are a couple seals there to keep the oil for the gears inside the drive case. The rotors themselves ride in some roller bearings in each end of the case that contain their own grease. If you get too much oil or other low viscosity fluid in there it can wash the grease out of those and they will wear out, which eventually will lead to the rotors getting too close to each other and the outer case and wearing... at which point they would have to be replaced and the case machined. That's exactly what had to be done to mine when I had it rebuilt.

I don't know who you bought that from, or how many owners had it before that, but hopefully they didn't damage it. I would definitely be taking it off and checking to see if there is still oil in the drive end. You really should have done that before installing it.

[BJPbrandon2448]

Upon looking further into this I have yet to find a solution to the whining noise, I refilled the coolant reservoir and I'm not quite sure how to air out? What would be the best method of doing that? The manual says to use the nipple lines that are attached to the throttle body, but I don't have those anymore! Ugh. I feel stupid for being a noob and all, I should have never just assumed that there was oil in the charger...

I left the car running for a bit but it kind of scares me because it just keeps whistling like that, and I don't want it running like that! I tried to hear it out and it sounds like it is loudest to the left of the battery, it sounds internal too! It all honestly it sounds like the drive is spinning dry... I like how the manual gives absolutely no insight to changing the oil or how to go about doing it! Nobody in my area has the GM supercharger oil, which is kind of the reason I put it off! #Mistake.

Aaron, if you don't mind me asking how much did you end up paying to have it rebuilt?

[Smithkid21]

Originally Posted by BJPbrandon2448

Upon looking further into this I have yet to find a solution to the whining noise, I refilled the coolant reservoir and I'm not quite sure how to air out? What would be the best method of doing that? The manual says to use the nipple lines that are attached to the throttle body, but I don't have those anymore! Ugh. I feel stupid for being a noob and all, I should have never just assumed that there was oil in the charger...

I left the car running for a bit but it kind of scares me because it just keeps whistling like that, and I don't want it running like that! I tried to hear it out and it sounds like it is loudest to the left of the battery, it sounds internal too! It all honestly it sounds like the drive is spinning dry... I like how the manual gives absolutely no insight to changing the oil or how to go about doing it! Nobody in my area has the GM supercharger oil, which is kind of the reason I put it off! #Mistake.

Aaron, if you don't mind me asking how much did you end up paying to have it rebuilt?

If you need too, hit up ZZP for some supercharger oil.

GM Part
http://shop.zzperformance.com/store/...arger-Oil.aspx

ZZP's Part (the supposed exact amount for most Eaton blowers.)
http://shop.zzperformance.com/store/...arger-Oil.aspx

Sorry if this doesn't help you, Brandon, just throwing it out there for you!

EDIT: Also, if you look at some of the related items, they have parts to rebuild some pieces to the Eaton. I don't remember which one the Grand Am uses off hand, just figured I'd bring that to your attention as well.

[BJPbrandon2448]

Thanks AJ I was browsing through their inventory last night and seen they carry some stuff for the M62, I even sent them an email last night of the video to see if they would be familiar with the sound? I plan on ordering some oil off of them tonight just not sure which kind? Anyone got some really thorough directions on how to change the oil on this, I can't find the drain plug! would it be possible for a supercharger spinning with no oil could be the source of this noise?

[BJPbrandon2448]

Zzp seems to think that my PCV may be plugged they have instructed me to pull the oil cap while the car is runnin to see if there is pressure they told me the car might die? Thoughts?

[PhantomLover007]

Originally Posted by BJPbrandon2448

Thanks AJ I was browsing through their inventory last night and seen they carry some stuff for the M62, I even sent them an email last night of the video to see if they would be familiar with the sound? I plan on ordering some oil off of them tonight just not sure which kind? Anyone got some really thorough directions on how to change the oil on this, I can't find the drain plug! would it be possible for a supercharger spinning with no oil could be the source of this noise?

Originally Posted by BJPbrandon2448

Zzp seems to think that my PCV may be plugged they have instructed me to pull the oil cap while the car is runnin to see if there is pressure they told me the car might die? Thoughts?

Originally Posted by Smithkid21

If you need too, hit up ZZP for some supercharger oil.

GM Part
http://shop.zzperformance.com/store/...arger-Oil.aspx

ZZP's Part (the supposed exact amount for most Eaton blowers.)
http://shop.zzperformance.com/store/...arger-Oil.aspx

Sorry if this doesn't help you, Brandon, just throwing it out there for you!

EDIT: Also, if you look at some of the related items, they have parts to rebuild some pieces to the Eaton. I don't remember which one the Grand Am uses off hand, just figured I'd bring that to your attention as well.

There is a drain plug (a hex bolt) above drive shaft on the main body of the SC.

Damn that is cheap for the gear oil. I bought some from the stealership and it was $15 for each bottle..



Hope you figure it out soon enough Brandon.

[AaronGTR]

Originally Posted by BJPbrandon2448

Upon looking further into this I have yet to find a solution to the whining noise, I refilled the coolant reservoir and I'm not quite sure how to air out? What would be the best method of doing that? The manual says to use the nipple lines that are attached to the throttle body, but I don't have those anymore! Ugh. I feel stupid for being a noob and all, I should have never just assumed that there was oil in the charger...

I left the car running for a bit but it kind of scares me because it just keeps whistling like that, and I don't want it running like that! I tried to hear it out and it sounds like it is loudest to the left of the battery, it sounds internal too! It all honestly it sounds like the drive is spinning dry... I like how the manual gives absolutely no insight to changing the oil or how to go about doing it! Nobody in my area has the GM supercharger oil, which is kind of the reason I put it off! #Mistake.

Aaron, if you don't mind me asking how much did you end up paying to have it rebuilt?

On the stock car you run it untill it gets warmed up then open the bleeder valve on top of the coolant tower (on top of the water pump) a couple times until no air bubbles come out. The SC kit replaces the hard line going to the heater that had the coolant tower with that bleeder valve on it, and their replacement coolant tower doesn't have a bleeder valve on it. I eventually took mine and drilled and tapped a hole and added a bleeder valve too it, just to make things easier. If you just run it/drive it several times though the air will work it's way out of the system to the reservoir, between the heating/cooling cycles and the vibration. Just keep checking the tank and adding coolant until it stops going down. Should only take 2-3 times.



I hate to sound harsh man but.... yeah, you shouldn't have assumed there was oil in it. I did tell you to check it first, and I told you where the plug was and how to do it. It's kind of frustrating when I spend my time answering questions trying to help people and they don't listen. It happens a lot on here, and makes me feel like I'm wasting my time.

I did tell you also that you don't HAVE to use the gm supercharger oil. You can also use a synthetic 5w-20 or 10w-20 motor oil. That is what the guy from high speed lab told me. They are the ones that rebuilt my blower for me. I can't find the receipt right now, but iirc it was like $1200 for mine. The normal rebuild is cheaper, but since mine was damaged and needed a new core and extra machining it was like $300 more, and I also got the optional ceramic heat coatings which is extra.


Anyway, the first thing I would do is pull that blower and see if there is any oil in it. Pull the fill plug and tip the blower up on end over a small pail. You should get 4-6 ounces out of it, and it should 6 ounces to fill up. If there is little or no oil in it, you may have a leaking seal. Put some new oil in it and see if it leaks out. Might have to run it a while to see, but then you can check if that makes the noise go away. If it does leak, hopefully you'll just need a seal and bearing kit and not any case/rotor work. You can buy a diy rebuild kit from them for much cheaper.


But fyi this is why I keep telling people that boosting these cars is not easy, and they better be prepared before they do it. You have to do your homework and have everything lined up in advance. People come on here with these pipe dreams of just slapping a blower or turbo on their car [cough]3800L67GAM[cough] and viola, they'll have a fast blown grand am. I have to laugh because I know better. I've spent thousands of dollars and years learning and fixing issues that come up with running boost on a factory NA car that isn't popular to modify.

[AleroB888]

Originally Posted by BJPbrandon2448

Upon looking further into this I have yet to find a solution to the whining noise, ....
I left the car running for a bit but it kind of scares me because it just keeps whistling like that, and I don't want it running like that! I tried to hear it out and it sounds like it is loudest to the left of the battery, it sounds internal too! ....

You could pray that it's the bypass valve somehow. But I've never seen a bypass valve cause a noise like that....Magnuson Products can sell you one and give you a cost to rebuild the whole SC, which is what I would do if needed.

Eaton suggests using a syringe and suction tube to remove the oil. I have used 1/8 nylon tubing (for vacuum gauges, from Autozone) to siphon the old oil out and then larger plastic tubing to refill. The small tubing can be used as a crude "dipstick" to check the oil level -- it can reach into the bottom part of the gearcase. It drains very slowly, but does the job.

[BJPbrandon2448]

The noise is coming from the internals on the supercharger, sounds like right on the main part where the couplers and piping hook up to it! I apologize Aaron, I was so busy worrying about getting all of the hoses and stuff hooked up that I just automatically assumed everything inside the supercharger would be sound! I guess unfortunately I'm going to end up having to pull this damn thing again! I'm gonna order 2 bottles of the oil from zzp, Aaron would you happen to have a link to the seal and bearing kit??? Does zzp sell those as well, I was having difficulties finding it... Or the officially Eaton site. I'm still confused on where the drain/hex bolt is for the oil, is it located on the bottom? Could someone perhaps point it out in one of the earlier pictures that I took? Thanks.

[BJPbrandon2448]

Lol... Sorry Aaron for the copyright infringement! Arrow #1, is this that the drain plug for the oil??? If so do you pour the oil back into the same hole? Arrow #2, am I supposed to have the circle coupler ring thing on there? Iv'e looked at a million pictures and I notice some people have it, some people don't, whats the deal???

[AaronGTR]

I don't know what zzp sells for any rebuilding purposes. They never carried anything for the M62 before, so I never used them for that. Eaton doesn't sell that stuff either. They will only sell to Magnacharger, because Magnuson Products is a factory approved distributor.

I used this place for my stuff. http://thehighspeedlab.com/index.html They have several different levels of kits with different parts in them, depending on if you are just rebuilding the nose drive or also the main blower etc. The bearings and seals in the Magnuson drive extension that our kit uses are the same size bearings and seals as the standard nose drive for the eaton M62 gen 4 blower.

This is the link to the catalog with their rebuild services. I will say, it's not that easy to navigate their website and find what you want. They used to have DIY seal/bearing kits listed on there somewhere, but I can't find them right now. http://www.thehighspeedlab.com/Eaton_Price_List.html


The drain hole for the oil is right on the end of the SC on the side the drive shaft attaches too. You can't miss it. It's a threaded plug with a hole for an allen key in it. It's the only thing there. If you tried to post a pic of it, it's not working. I can't see it. It's a pretty simple operation though. Drain the oil out the hole, put it back in the same hole. I didn't mess around with any tubes or anything. I just tipped it up and poured it out. You'll have to tip it back and forth a few times to get all the oil out of the drive shaft and case, but you'll get most of it out that way.

[BJPbrandon2448]

Thanks Aaron, I forgot to add the pic... Its up now though!

[PhantomLover007]

And 6ounces correct Aaron?

[BJPbrandon2448]

Dang Aaron that site is kind of a mess, I can't find where to even purchase anything? Lol. I can't find the bearing or the seal on that site! I do like that they post the prices of how much it cost to do the work though! I just placed an order for the oil... I will do the oil change and go from there!

[TDavis]

Even though I do not own this S/C its pissing me off that its not working straight off the bat for Brandon

[BJPbrandon2448]

Lol. Thanks Tanner it's really pissing me off as well, some of this is error on my part, with the whole oil change and everything! I've learned to never make assumptions again! Hopefully the oil gets here before the weekend so I can go ahead and do that if that doesn't fix the issue I have a feeling that I'm gonna be sending it out because I don't have the knowledge to tear it apart myself, I would really hate for the internals to be screwed, if they are the original owner is gonna hear about it!

[AaronGTR]

Originally Posted by BJPbrandon2448

Lol... Sorry Aaron for the copyright infringement! Arrow #1, is this that the drain plug for the oil??? If so do you pour the oil back into the same hole? Arrow #2, am I supposed to have the circle coupler ring thing on there? Iv'e looked at a million pictures and I notice some people have it, some people don't, whats the deal???

Ok, now the pic is there. Arrow #1 on the bottom is the drain plug, yes. Like I said, pull the blower and take that plug out and see if there is any oil in it to begin with. If it's dry, then it's a good bet that is where the noise was coming from, and also it's possible then that you have some leaking seals. Fill it up, see if the noise goes away, and if it leaks oil anywhere.

Arrow #2 on the top is just point to the other end of the shaft for the bypass valve. The vacuum bypass actuator is on the bottom of the SC attached to the other end of that shaft. I don't know about any circle coupler ring thing. I've never seen anything else there. If you are talking about the flat machined circle there with the threaded holes around it... that is just another spot to mount an actuator. You have to remember the central part of the blower itself is just a universal part made by eaton. It is used by many different companies in different ways and different orientations. They have to provide a provision to mount the bypass actuator on either side and at many different angles, in order to fit different applications. You can technically mount it 12 ways ( 6 spots around the circle, times two sides).


And like I said, yeah that website isn't really designed very well. It's kind of hard to find things. I'm not sure, but they may have taken down their DIY kits, as I can't find them now. The guy who runs it is very knowledgeable about superchargers, but not web design I guess.

Matt, 6 ounces is correct.