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Old 12-03-2013, 12:40 AM   #21
blondiez24gt
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Ok guys the car is showing some more symptoms. It will not get up to speed now, and it stinks horribly of a rotten egg smell. The car idles horribly. It will jump from 300-400rpms up to 700-800, and do that for a minute then level out at the lower end and miss badly. When you start driving it. It has about 1/4 of the power it usually has. You have to really get on it to get it up to 40 mph. Thats about as fast as it will go. It smells horribly of rotten eggs. Just wondering if you guys had any thoughts about what it could be with this symptom?

xundercoverhobo, The wheel bearing is not that complicated to change. Jack the car up. Take the wheel off. Take the brake caliper, and bracket off. Then pull of the rotor. Next loosen the axle nut. Then there are 3 or 4 bolts holding the hub assembly on. Take them out and it will come right off. Its about a 15-20 minute job with air tools. The hub assembly is about 80-90 bucks...
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Old 12-03-2013, 06:58 AM   #22
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Could be a bad miss fire (usually what the flashing SES light means) and/or a plugged cat.


You really need to figure out the OBD port issue so you can read the codes before you can diagnose the problem though. It might be a problem with the wiring connection to the port, but it could also be a bad PCM. If that's the case, it could actually be the PCM causing all the other problems too, and not something else. Sort out that issue first, then diagnose from there if the problem persists.
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Old 12-03-2013, 08:21 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blondiez24gt View Post
Ok guys the car is showing some more symptoms. It will not get up to speed now, and it stinks horribly of a rotten egg smell. The car idles horribly. It will jump from 300-400rpms up to 700-800, and do that for a minute then level out at the lower end and miss badly. When you start driving it. It has about 1/4 of the power it usually has. You have to really get on it to get it up to 40 mph. Thats about as fast as it will go. It smells horribly of rotten eggs. Just wondering if you guys had any thoughts about what it could be with this symptom?
well see now that flashing light is your car telling you to stop driving it because you are about to fvck sh1t up. flashing typically means severe misfire and possible damage to the catalyst may occur. by the sounds of it you driving the car is just making your repair bill bigger. if this is something you cant figure out in your driveway, then you need to have it towed to a reputable mechanic. first as to not further damage the car and to find out why the scanners are not communicating with the pcm. as for the comment about the bcm, that is a moot point. if the bcm were bad, the car would have a svs light, and other symptoms not relating to drivability like the symptoms he is describing. not an SES light. that is specifically a pcm/engine/drivetrain problem.


edit: op you need to check all your accessory fuses and report back. i would highly advise that you do not drive the car anymore until the issue is resolved, as it already sound like youve completely destroyed the cat
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Old 12-04-2013, 08:33 AM   #24
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Yea, I only drove it to autozone after I put the water pump on to get it scanned. I have tried having a couple people diagnose it in our driveway. That is where it started the new symptoms......I trailered it to a shop yesterday evening. Hoping to hear something later on... People keep telling me blown headgasket......but there is no water in oil, or vice versa....I have never had a blown headgasket before, but it just doesnt really act like the symptoms....I thought maybe a clogged cat, because of the rotten egg smell. There seems to be quite a bit of air coming out of the exhaust though...... I didn't drive the car as much as it sounds like...Just starting the car sitting still the light flashes. I've only drove it about 5 miles since the problems started....

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Old 12-04-2013, 11:26 AM   #25
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Check the horn fuse, i saw on here or gaoc that is powers the obd port.
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I could be wrong, but if you keep clearing the code with the OBDII scanner, it will keep coming back until the problem is solved.
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Old 12-04-2013, 12:16 PM   #26
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like 5 fuses in the driver side fuse panel somehow connect to the obd port...
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Old 12-04-2013, 12:35 PM   #27
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Pin 16 is 12v non switched

Pin 5 is Ground.

Check this with a DMM before doing anything else to the car or driving it.
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Old 12-04-2013, 02:52 PM   #28
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Just heard from the mechanic. He fixed the obd2 port....Haven't got to talk to him about what was wrong with the obd2 port yet....He said it is showing misfire on cylinder 1, 3, and 4. He said new spark plugs, and wires will fix it......Kinda weird I thought.....Luckily I bought all the stuff for a tune-up a couple months ago and haven't done it yet. He said it is fine to drive home like it is.....??? So I am going to get it now. I'll do th eplugs, and wires myself. He isn't charging me anything.....Friend of my Dads! So Thats nice..... I'll let you guys know if the plugs, and wires fix it...
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Old 12-04-2013, 04:24 PM   #29
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Quote:
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Pin 16 is 12v non switched

Pin 5 is Ground.

Check this with a DMM before doing anything else to the car or driving it.
i was gonna post something like this as well, but figured by previous posts from the OP it would be over his head. so i didnt waste my time. i will say though, that post was more useful than your other one about the bcm...just giving you ****
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Old 12-04-2013, 04:45 PM   #30
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Over my head?? I don't understand why your acting like that? I just was asking for some help trying to figure out a way to get the codes. I didn't want to go blindly fixing stuff if it was something else....Knowing what code, or codes it was throwing would help me narrow it down. I don't really have the money to fix everything it could have been.. thats why I wanted to retrieve the codes....BTW I am a female.......
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Old 12-04-2013, 05:37 PM   #31
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i was gonna post something like this as well, but figured by previous posts from the OP it would be over her head. so i didnt waste my time. i will say though, that post was more useful than your other one about the bcm...just giving you ****
better?
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Old 12-04-2013, 06:42 PM   #32
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WTF? Ok no since in even acknowledging you.......Evidently common sense goes over your head....Plus if you're going to be a smarta** why even say anything? I never claimed to be a professional mechanic.....I was asking for help to solve an issue I wasn't sure about......
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Old 12-04-2013, 06:59 PM   #33
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i was gonna post something like this as well, but figured by previous posts from the OP it would be over his head. so i didnt waste my time. i will say though, that post was more useful than your other one about the bcm...just giving you ****

Really dude? come on... that was a little unnecessary.
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Old 12-04-2013, 07:14 PM   #34
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Theres alot of kids here
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Old 12-05-2013, 06:04 AM   #35
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Well guys. I was getting ready to start tearing into the car. As I started it up to pull it in the garage I could hear a ticking noise. It sounded oddly familiar. When I got this car, I got it super cheap. The guy said it needed a headgasket repaired, and a new head. Upon further inspection it was just a couple rocker suds pulled loose. Well when I heard that ticking today it sounded the same.

I pulled the valve covers......Sure enough there are a couple more pulled loose......So I guess I should have just helicoiled them all when I fixed the couple that had pulled out when the car was purchased.. I've got to make a trip to autozone to get helicoils.
What size do I need for these again? Also what gap do the spark plugs need to be? I couldn't hear the ticking noise until I was actually pulling the car into the garage......So I hope fixing those, and new plugs/wires will solve all the issues....
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Old 12-05-2013, 08:04 AM   #36
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I forget on plugs...



These cars have lifter tick and piston slap. Its a common noise that shouldnt really be worried about. If they in fact did come loose. 167 ft lbs is what the rockers need to be torqued to I believe it was.
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Old 12-05-2013, 12:17 PM   #37
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Loose rockers would probably make it run poorly. Still doesn't explain your issue with the obd port though, so I'd still look into that. Stock plug gap should be .06"
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Old 12-05-2013, 12:43 PM   #38
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The obd2 port was corroded on the back side I guess. The mechanic pulled it apart, and cleaned it. He said it was pretty simple to fix. Thats part of why he didnt charge me anything. So the studs on 2003 plus grand ams are 8mm right?
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Old 12-05-2013, 12:46 PM   #39
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also I've got the acdelco iridium spark plugs...It shows them pregapped to .045. Should I put them to .06, or is the iridiums better to what they were pregapped. I didn't want to end up hurting the fine tip on the iridiums...
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Old 12-05-2013, 01:17 PM   #40
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i was gonna post something like this as well, but figured by previous posts from the OP it would be over his head. so i didnt waste my time. i will say though, that post was more useful than your other one about the bcm...just giving you ****
I guess Corvette humor is something over my head.
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